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Alander,

I had the same issues with a newer run Santa Maria with the fore and main masts being warped out of true. I attempted to straighten them out with hot water with no luck at all. The plastic was very rubbery and would not straighten out for the life of it.

I then went to the Revell.com site and used the tab for broken or missing parts. I requested replacements for the parts using the online form. It states that if the kit was from Revell Germany then the turn around time would be about a month or more , so I put the Santa Maria on hold and started another kit. In about a month or so, I received the replacements for the warped masts and they were not warped in the least bit. Since that time I have had to order replacements parts on several occasions and have never paid a penny. That is what I call customer service!

So, if you cannot get the warp out I would recommend requesting new parts.

In the case of the deck, I would just use the one you have. Once you have it glued and locked between the hull halves, the warp no longer is an issue. If the yards are a bit warped I would not worry about that too much if the warp has both ends drooping down. These were usually warped due to the weight of the sail and were made from springier wood such as pine, so it actually gives it a realistic look.

When you are ready to rig her, make sure you do not put too much pressure on the masts and yards since this will warp them unnaturally. If you use the sails, I would use a piece of stock styrene between the mast and sail along the bottom edge. This way, the sail actually looks like it is billowing. You must also remember not to pull too hard on the sheet lines (the lines from the bottom corners of the sail rigged aft). This will pull the corners back unnaturally.

I know this goes beyond your original question but I hope it helps.

Steve

Ron,

I usually use Vallejo Model Colors Deck Tan 986. Other paints that represent bleached teak decks are Floquil Aged Concrete which has been released as an acryl paint by Testors Model Master line. One of the things I really like about Vallejo Model Colors is that it levels beautifully after brushing. Hope this helps.

Steve

Krill,

I did want to ask you if you used regular white glue to create the nail heads I saw on the bottom wale and the planking? How exactly did you do it? If not the white glue, could you let me know how you created them, they look awesome?

Thanks,

Steve

Krill,

I know it has been awhile since your last post, but I just wanted to let you know that your rigging is phenomenal! I am blown away by how beautiful your rigging is looking, and that is on top of your scratch building. Hopefully, on your next vacation, you'll post more.

Thanks again,

Stveve

Gerald,

Thanks for reposting your build. When I first returned to the hobby after a 40 year hiatus, I found your build and was blown away to say the least. I have a Revell CWM that I have been building/not building for the last year, trying to copy some of your work. I hope you do not mind.

Steve

Daniel,

Beautiful work. I have been following your build over on a German forum but since my High School German is subpar after all these years, I have never commented on your amazing work. Thanks for posting, you have inspired my builds to be that much better.

Steve

You might have your answer already, but when I'm glueing the hull, I run a bead of liquid cement along the seam on only one side. Clamp it together at numerous points along the outside seam and let her dry about 24 hours. If more glue is needed then I'll run a bead along the inside seam. The main thing to remember is do not use too much glue or it will ruin the plastic. Also, I usually never use rubber bands to hold the hull, if cement gets on the rubber band it will leave a really ugly mark on your model. I then use Squadron green putty along the outside seam, let that dry and then sand down to even out the keel and get rid of the seam.

Hope this helps,

Steve

Kris's,

That is some seriously nice painting! She is looking good so far and cannot wait for the next installment. A couple of pictures (post 32and 34) did not post and I'm not sure if it is my iPad or what.

Steve

Krill,

That is some amazing work not only on the ship but the ship's boat as well! Your scratch building techniques and use of recycled material is very cool. I will follow this build log with great interest as I have the same model in my stash.

Steve

Vett,

I am not sure if the boiling water technique worked or not, however, Revell has an amazing customer service that you can request replacements from. If the kit is from the US then it takes only a couple of weeks to get the replacements, otherwise, if it comes from Revell Germany, it can take up to 12 weeks. I have had to request warped, broken or missing pieces on numerous occasions and have yet to pay for them. The downside is that if the model is out of production, then they rarely if ever have the part. Hope this helps, If not now then possibly in the future.

Steve

Scott,

Great work as usual and I love the way you did your water and thanks for explaining how to do it. I can't wait to see your Shangra-la!

Steve

Kriss,

Nice job so far. I have been racking my brain ( or what's left of it ) in regards to the gammoning and how to remove the chunks of plastic without harming the scroll work. That was one of the first things I noticed when I bought the kit. I also take out the windows and replace them with faucet screens and screen door replacement screen and then using Micro-Mark Krystal Clear to simulate the glass. It actually looks good representing early style glass. I will be following your build with great interest.

Steve

Henry,

Your build is looking great. I really like your solution to the head rails and your casting details. I was trying to see the company name on the silicone putty you used since I am missing a detail piece on the Heller Le Phenix and have been leaning towards casting it in resin.

I too have the Royale in my stash although I have been waiting to build it while I try and get my chops back... 40 years away from modeling sure can put a crimp in your style. As I said, keep up the good work and I will be following the build with great interest.

Steve

Absolutely beautiful B.E. I only hope when I start the Le Superbe in my stash that it looks half as good. Thanks for sharing.

Steve

Great work Andy! I was following your build before and it's nice to see the progress you've made.

Steve