JesseLee

I reached a huge milestone on my Cheerful build yesterday.  With the completion of the winch, I'm now finished with the inboard details and fittings and ready to start with the bowsprit, mast, spars, and rigging.  It's taken 15 months of daily work to get from where I had finished the exterior planking to here.  So in celebration, after a morning of touch up, and careful dusting, here are a ton of photos.  Haha.  The top photo is roughly where I picked up 15 months ago after a 6 1/2 year break.  I've spent time since my last post making the winch from scratch, and the bowsprit step (which is not yet glued down) from Chuck's mini kit.  I built the bowsprit step first to get the shape of the top of the timber heads and then copied those on the winch, so they'd look the same.  The last photo is my humble little work area.  To all those contemplating a Cheerful build, all the tools I've used fit in about a 3rd of the pictured plastic tool box, so you don't really need much, besides time, to embark on this project.
 
Erik

Thanks for the likes folks, and kind words Mike.  I finished shaping the mast over the last week.  I had planned on turning it using my power drill after sanding it to 8 sides.  I couldn't get it to not wobble when chucked in though.  I wound up just using the same "shoe-shine' hand sanding method that I did with the bowsprit.  This was time consuming, but admittedly I like the control with removing material by hand.  It's easier to not accidentally remove too much. After making the bowsprit, and now the mast, I'm getting the hang of how to do this by hand.  So I'll use the same methods for the remaining spars.  I filed the square tennon at the top of the mast, and lastly cut the sheeve in.  Surprisingly, the mast fit into the mast coat with barely any additional sanding.  It sits at the correct angle when compared to the plans.  Also, once I get to the point of attaching the mast and spars permanently, I have no idea how, or where, I'm going to be able to photograph the build in it's entirety!
 
Erik

Thanks for the likes, and thanks for the kind word Mike and Al.  I have finished the bowsprit.  The aft end is painted black and I used a pencil to darken the sheeve at the fore end.  Following Chuck's instructions, I used black construction paper to simulate the metal band on the end of the bowsprit.  I had made the four eye bolts very small in diameter, but then read other build logs where folks were having problems attaching the seizings and hooks, particularly on the two side eye bolts.  So I redid all to a little bigger diameter that would handle the .018" rope and 24 gauge hooks in the loop of the eye bolts.  I've decided to make the rest of the spars before I permanently attach the bowsprit step, and attach and rig the bowsprit, so the eye bolts are not yet glued into the bowsprit end as it will have to be inserted in the bulwarks hole first.  It took quite a while of careful filing to get the hole in the bulwarks to the correct diameter with no gaps between it and the bowsprit.  I wound up purchasing a round file used to sharpen chainsaws for the task.  The round needle files I have on hand are too small in diameter to work well.  Once I was able to fit the bowsprit the way I wanted it, I then practiced fitting it with the bow cannons in place, and figured out how I would do the final mounting.  Once satisfied that I could glue the bowsprit and bowsprit step in place while the cannons were there, I went ahead and permanently attached the cannons.  I've spent the last couple of days preparing the mast for shaping.  It's hard to see on the photo below, but the 7/10/7 lines are drawn on the part that will be rounded, and the limit lines for the top part that will be square are there as well.  I also left some extra material at the top of the mast so I can chuck it in my power drill when the time comes to turn it.  I hand drilled the holes for the sheeve.  After measuring VERY carefully with my digital calipers, I stared with a .016" bit, drilling halfway through the 3/8" square mast stock.  I then did the same thing from the other side.  I was almost surprised that the holes actually lined up! I then widened the holes with a .026" drill bit.
 
Erik
 
 

I'm amazed you can do it at all. I do understand though. Sometimes building is part of healing or helping you through a sickness. The first year of my treatment for my chronic Lyme disease I had a PICC line inserted into a (vein/artery?) in my arm going right into a chamber in my heart to pump antibiotics straight in. Had it in for 8 months. Spent much of that time in bed. I built my first large wooden ship model during that time. I wanted something to try to do to give me a purpose to live because I was so sick I wanted to go on and die. Somehow I built this whole ship from scratch- no kit- and a single large plan sheet. A lot of it is not accurate but under the circumstances I did the best I could.  I don't even remember most of the build at all but It was what got me through that very hard time. Here is a pic below of it.  I say be proud of what you are doing knowing your condition right now. It can be wonderful therapy.
 
Jesse
 

It's been a nerve wracking week . . . I started rigging the carronades, haha.  This represents a milestone on this build for me.  It's my first rigging done on the Cheerful.  Rigging is the element of this hobby I have the least experience with, and really don't feel like I know what I'm doing, so I'm actually quite nervous as I tackle this part of the build.  Taking a page from Mike's (Stuntflyer) Cheerful build log, I made a 3/32" (.010") spacer to put between the bulwarks and the front gun carriage wheels in order to get the spacing uniform as I attach them to the deck.  Chuck's monograph, and build log posts, were spot on for making the breech rope.  I manged to get the first one, pictured below, made on the first try.  My seizings need a bit of work, but these early attempts are fine.  The more I do, the better they'll get.  Since the gun tackles will be positioned directly above them I'm not too worried about them being less than perfect.
 
I'd like some advice from you folks with rigging experience.  What, if anything, are you using to hold the rope when you seize the ends of it?  I don't have anything currently to hold on to the main rope, so what you see below was done while simply holding it in my hands.  This was quite awkward, not ideal, and I could tell I was at least one holding point short of what what I needed.
 
Thanks,
Erik

The carronades and cannons are now finished and ready to be rigged.  I applied a black primer/paint coat over the self etching primer.  And then dusted them with a dark rust weathering powder (hard to see in these photos).  In the last photo they are just temporarily set into place.
 
Erik
 

It's been a bit over a month since I've posted anything.  So consider this as a bit of a proof-of-life post.  Haha.  I spent 2 ½ weeks traveling around Hokkaido, Japan.  That was a lot of fun.  Japan is a great place to travel.  While home, I have been working on Cheerful.  I made a ton of small eye bolts for the gun carriages.  I also broke out the airbrush and painted the gun carriages.  This morning I primed the brass cannons and carronades.  I'll spray them black tomorrow.  Here are a couple of quick photos of the progress.
 
Erik
 
 

A question of colour being correct.
I have seen a number of builds of the Alabama where the models have the inner bulwarks painted white.
Very noticeable to see on this model and on a picture of the Bluejacket kit built up that the inner bulwarks were painted in a shade of green. I wondered if this was the correct colour as in Andrew Bowcock's book the inner bulwark colour was described as being 'drab'. When I read that, the colour Olive Drab came to mind.
So I would guess that the green colour  is therefore historically correct as Jonathan also mentioned that he has been in touch with someone who is an acclaimed expert on this particular vessel in his Alabama research.
 
Andrew Bowcock who wrote the Anatomy book on the Alabama was on a steering committee to have a full sized replica built of the ship to be placed on display in the dock in Birkenhead, Liverpool where it was built. I would guess that a lot of his research for this project carried over into his book. Unfortunately the project did not get off the ground as it would have made a brilliant tourist attraction.
If someone like Peter Jackson, Ridley Scott or Spielberg ever made a movie about Semmes and the Alabama, Liverpool might just get that replica built in the original dock that 290 was built in.
 
Talking of full sized replicas, I believe that plans are afoot to build a full sized replica of one of Brunel's other ships, the PS Great Western in Bristol to compliment the Great Britain.

While pressing ahead with the investigation I decided to follow the manual assembly. So the dolphin striker was the first repair. With the rigging not allowing the part to be just glued I had to make a jig to hold the parts until the glue set. The martingale lines seized and run to the being set to the bow kept the striker in place longitudly leaving only the correct width spacing. Using the plans I made at jig to hold the spacing correct and needed something to support the break. At the top joint of the strikers I made a triangular piece out of 1/32" sheet.
These are the parts made laying the drawing. To make the jig to space the strikers I used a 1/8 by 1/32 strip and attached a piece on the strip that would keep the spacing

This with the jig and support laying on the plans as the would on the actural part. I hope

Sorry for the focus of the photos
Rather than trying to place the parts I decided to glue the broken pieces with CA holding while setting. With the parts in place and the glue not completely set I was able to add triangular support and the jig at the bottom keeping the spacing and angle correct. I used alligator clips to keep the jig in place and after setting the support more alligator used to keep the support firmly against the striker legs while the glue set.

When the glue has set I'll paint the support and the glue to eliminate the shinny joints
 
 

Just a quick update. The dolphin striker is very secure with addition of the support piece. So now on to how to fix the starboard fore top mast cheek that the jib stay runs through. So just a photo of the repaired dolphin striker.

A lot of work without much to talk about meaning getting the cheek on the fore topmast head fixed with the jib stay in place. The problem was the cheek had split leaving no sheave for the jib stay. I had to smooth the cheek still attached to the mast and and make a new cheek for the jib stay sheave. To make the jib stay remain in place I pushed a small pin through the remaining cheek and the mast and taking the new cheek pushing onto the pin with glue. I the trimmed the pin and painted the new parts.

I'm slowly getting back to where I had stopped before moving. Today getting the main top gallant shrouds back into their correct position. After trying to rearrange the shrouds I found it necessary to remove them and reroute with new. The same was with the main top gallant back stays. Now on to the gaff sail rigging that is laying on the deck and over hanging the sides.

Sorry had to define the model and prints behind.

Finally finished the repairs with the addition of the main royal backstays. This has been a long and tedious process where I found it necessary to make the minor adjustments as described. The only thing left to bring me up to the time the model was packed is the boom rigging. This was not damaged in transit and only became loose so I'll get to that tomorrow.
Picture of main royal backstays

While working on the backstays I kept looking at the deck furniture and how much I liked the way it looked so I took another picture.

Everything fixed and ready to start where I left off.
Gaff rigged

Thank you Richard and all the likes from the others. 👍

Now that all the repairs are complete, I thought, I discovered that starboard rudder chain was broken. Fortunately I have more of the same chain so it is going to be an easy fix. Since the last post I've been working on the boom. First was to string the parrels around the main mast between the boom jaws. With the boom jaws resting on the stop I was a fairly straight forward to string. The beads in the kit had a hole for stringing making it easy. Working in this scale the beads seemed small until I realized that they would be 9" diameter in scale and I've been away so getting used to 3/16" scale it taking time. Did the carpet monster get a parrel bead yes and maybe more than one. Good thing the kit had plenty.

With the boom attached it was time for the topping lifts. After seizing equal lengths of line to the boom and then up to the single block under the main top and then down to a block. So two days later working between all the previously routed back stays and on a swings 3mm block I had the port and starboard routed ready for the blocks. Many attempts and with just as many mental rest periods I came up with an idea. Using a reverse twizzer clipped to the block holding it in alignment and steady I was able to get the line through the block and down ready for a seized block.

 
Not sure when I'll be able to work on the Syren as we have company this weekend in town for the wedding shower. One of my daughters is getting married on 11/02/2024 so its a crazy time.
 

Been a week since last post but rest assured I've been steadily working. On the boom rigging the halliard is in place along with the guys that completes the boom. I moved on the topmast staysail down haul and halliard were added along with the topgallant staysail and top royal staysail completed so now its on the foremast topmast and jib rigging.
Not much to see but a couple of picture anyway.
Boom rigging

staysail rigging

Just quick update, but one that is amazing. I finished all the rigging for the main staysails, fore staysails, jib staysail, flying jib staysail and now on to the next chapter "Constructing the yards". So now it is downstairs to the shop and make some sawdust.

 

Looking very good Will, nice lines. 

Spent the last two days making sawdust. First I had a 1/32" thick of Alaskan Yellow Cedar in my wood pile and decided that's what'll I'll use since it was the correct thickness. Second I ripped some 1/16" wide strips. The center of the yard was marked with red pencil (didn't matter as the yard will be painted black) to indicate the 1/4 of the yard to be octagonal. Cutting the strips to the marked length the edges were beveled and the ends slightly rounded and glued around the circumference to create the octagonal section as per the reference manual. With the strips around the yard the 1/32" added to the circumference was way too large making the yard center bulbous. Next I said to myself I'll fix this and run new strips through my Byrnes sander to making 1/64" strips. After placing around the yard it was way too small. Remember I said "making dust" so I ripped more strips a little wider than 1/16" since the first two passes left a little gap. The new strips were .07 wide and after the planning the finished size is .07 X .021 give or take .001.
After cutting to length the edges were beveled to ensure a close fit. I have yet to drill the holes in the ends before tapering to correct thickness. 
Picture of 1/32" sheet

Typical strip and sheet

Yard and strip for reference

Finished octagon after light sanding

I'm hoping the gaps will be less evident when painted black. Next final sanding, drilling, and tapering.
 

Completed both yards and with the final sanding and sealing the gaps became less evident. Before tapering the holes in the ends needed drilling. Finding the center of a circle to drill holes brings its share of problems. So after studying the of how to center a hole of a rod I decided to use the lathe. To find the center the rod was chucked in the lathe and with a drill chuck in the sliding support the drill chuck was attached to the dowel aligning the ends. Taking the dowel out of the lathe and without moving the drill chuck a bit was placed and the dowel slide to alignment with the drill bit. Using the thumb wheel the drill bit was brought into play to the correct depth.
Pictures of the process
Aligning the drill chuck to the dowel

Bringing the bit into play

With the drill chuck replaced with a freewheeling center the yard was brought to length centered using the previously drilled hole it was possible to begin the tapering using 150 grit paper and a #2 flat file.

With the tapering completed it was time to make the sling cheats. These are a simple part to be glued to center of the yards and having to make 7 of these the same presented another challenge. I made a boxwood strip the correct hight and width and using the table saw was able to cut the groove to the correct width and depth the length of the strip. Using a modelers plane the strip brought the correct angle shape with the angle completed 280 grit sandpaper rounded the edges. With strip completed a mini mitre box saw was used cutting 1/16" wide pieces and with a little light sanding the the parts are ready to be glued in place.
Saw set to correct depth and fence spacing

The ripped groove end view

Plane to create the backside angle

The sling cheats for the main and fore coarse yards ready for sanding

 
 
 

The fore and main course yards and stuns'l are complete. Painted the yards black and the stuns'l were wipe-on-poly. While everything is drying started the foot rope stirrups and will then stiffen so they hang properly.
Stuns'l with WOP

Ready to paint

Painted 

 

Not much to report on. Spent time making some black .019 line for the foot ropes had to make sure to have enough for the 4 yards foot ropes. To male the stirrup loops I used a .028 drill bit and used a tight half hitch to simulate the loop. On other places I've found that a tightly pulled hitch gave a close approximation of a seized loop. With the stirrups hanging with an alligator clip creating a straight drop a small amount of very fine CA was used stiffening. Threading the foot rope through the stirrup loops creating the foot rope. Again CA was used to create the hanging appearance. Two vises used holding the yard while being worked making a easy process.
main course yard

Well my shop has been completed and I've weeks setting up my equipment and figuring out where everything goes. I had only peeked inside the Syren shipping crate for a quick inspection to ensure it made the move, but now with the model unpacked. UHG is all I can say. While waiting for a year for our basement and my shop to be completed I built a couple of plastic models to make the year pass. I set up a work area in dining room to build the plastic models and that is where I'll finish the Syren. Sitting on the table allowed me to see just how much has been damaged so now how to proceed. I took some photos showing the damage and for me to best determine where to start.

I think the best way forward is to fix the dolphin stricker more when I figure my method. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

I am so glad this came to the top of the forum!  This is the model in production in my plastic shipyard.  Just painting the parts now.  Love the hammocks.  You did a superb job.
 
I bought the accessories  from Hismodel.  Was wondering if you stained all the blocks the same?  Or, did you stain them differently?
Have not read the whole post yet, I will.  How hard was it to put the bulkhead in for the hammocks?
 
great job