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About niwotwill

  • Birthday 02/10/1942

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Gilbert, AZ
  • Interests
    Classic Hot Rods and Ship Modeling

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  1. I finally took some time out from other models to work on the Washington. Patterns for frames 0, A, B, C, D, E, F have been cut and frame 0 was glued to a piece of timber. Cut all the pieces and fit them together with just the junction points finish sanded. Using a modified Ed Tosti pinning method to assemble the frames. First take the glued patterns and drill a hole in each spot where the pattern had a dot. I drilled a .026 hole the created a snug fit to a #9 silk sewing straight pin. Then dry fitting the parts with the pins as alignment registration. When all fit you take the parts apart and
  2. I just read through your log again to refresh my memory and now i'm more impressed by your work, its looking fantastic. I now have a target for mine to achieve. Stay safe and well Will Good luck in grad school, it'll be a breeze based on the Syren. One of my daughters is getting her masters degree in biomedical engineering so I can relate to what your grad school will entail.
  3. Not much to show for todays work. I made 100 eye bolts and 50 eye bolt with rings. The old saying apples hear "a picture is worth a 1000 words" so here goes. Spinning wire with a hook mounted in a pin vise. eye bolt with ring attached method to attach a soldered ring first place the ring on the wire to spin place in a vise and spin with the pin vise finished eye bolt and ring blacken with "liver of sulfur" and a finished eye bolt Using silver soldered rings allow the liver o
  4. Started the next chapter about hull finishing. First thing was to decide rather to use the gallery castings or to make my own. I mounted the casting on a piece of wood and started cleaning up the images with my Micromotor. Its a work in progress and they are starting to look better with the features being more clearly defined. I'll post more about them as I progress and what decision I make to whether to use them or make my own. I looked at the photo etched panel specifically the sweep port hinges and thought I'd never be able to place the black wire for the hinges as described so I tried an
  5. Pintles and gudgeons made and rudder attached is the current update to the Syren. I used Ed Tostis method to make the pintles and gudgeons as he describes in his book "Young America" pages 192 through 196 and the results were excellent. Tho make the parts I took a piece of .03 brass sheet cut to the maximum length required to make the parts and wide enough to make the 8 pieces .06 wide when finished. as show in the picture below. I then used the mitre saw (.03 kefir) to scratch a line across the piece and the used a round swiss file to make a channel that
  6. Well tomorrow stretched into a week and a half. We took some time to go visit some friends in the northern mountains and spend some time in Prescott. Had to get out of the heat its been above 110 degrees and up to to 118 one day. Summer has got to end. Came home and made all the plates all three patterns and plated the ship. Completed the plating today and added the false keel. I made the keel out of 4 pieces which simulated 3 pieces being 24' and the last 8' added the false keel and is now drying. Just some pictures of the completed plating. Tomorrow onto pintles a
  7. Started copper plating today. First thing was to make plates so I spent some time making 400 starboard and port plates. Punch and tape worked nice together and it went very smoothly. Next I made a foam pad to protect the Syren on in the inverted position while I added the plates. I went to a local sewing/hobby store and bought a piece of 2" think foam to make the pad then I used a view of the deck from the plans and cut the foam to shape and simply installed the pad between the bulwarks. 2" foam Next I traced the deck pattern onto the foam
  8. Had a productive day working on my die for the press and making plates for the starboard side. Took time to make some test pieces on installation of the plates trying to develop my skills. I might say the first were very rough but the placement pattern improved as I progressed. While examining my test piece I realized that my punch pattern was wrong, I had placed nails on the forward edge so when I placed the plates overlapping as the should it made too many nails on the forward edge It was an easy fix as I just snipped off the offending nails and the pattern now allows overlapping without the
  9. Well I've finally got the 3 stamps made and started testing. Did I say tricky. I tried to use a hammer method but a small hammer didn't have sufficient force and regular carpenters hammer was very unwieldy so I started using my little press with much better results. Now that I'm using the press I can shorten the punch to make it less unwieldy. The other thing I need to do is mount the press on the table top and attach the rod to the punch to lift the punch while advancing the tape. I plan to drill a hole in the top of the punch placing a metal rod in the hole and attac
  10. I have finally made a keel, stem and stern post correctly. Yesterday I glued them together making the assemblies that match the drawing. I forgot to mention the copies of sheets 1 thru 10 were not to scale. Dumb me I never measured them. The total length of the keel was .135 shorter than the original and you can guess what happened. Note to self always measure and measure again always. So I measured the scale on the original and it is within 1/64" of the dimensions noted. I took the original to an engineering copy center (Mesa Blueprint, Mesa, AZ great people and made 3 copies while I waited)
  11. I've come up with a pattern for the copper plates and devised a method of how to hold the nails into the stamp while pressing the copper tape. This is the starboard pattern The pattern in the upper left corner is the final one the others are earlier attempts. The port side will be the same but reversed and the waterline belt line will have the holes on the top as the others have on the lower edges. This is the test pattern with the brass nails inserted. The nails are a .024 dia so then at scale (1.5" dia) they are a little to large but no so l
  12. These are some great tips of how to trim strake planks, I'm going to keep them in mind the next time I've got planking. Patrick as too have spaces and gaps in you planking a thing I came across while reading about copper plating was from Gahms log about how he used filler extensively on the entire hull until he had a smooth surface to apply finish and then the copper plates. His Syren is beautiful and read how he obtained the fantastic copper plating and don't be so hard on yourself. GREAT JOB Stay well and safe Will
  13. The head rails and cheeks are first class. You did I magnificent job for the first time. I can imagine how fustratating dry fitting those timber must have been but it is really a great job. 🙌🙌 I'm not looking forward to that part of my build, but I'll look to your log for inspiration. Stay safe and Well Will
  14. Well the deck is planked, drilled, tree nailed and sanded. I left the deck unstained with just wipe on poly. Deck planked and sanded ready for some filler to take care of large openings Completed deck I've been studying logs to see what others have done for copper planking. While doing this I came across logs using syringes, nails, copper wire, steel wire for the pattern jigs. Sometimes too much information leads to being frozen with indecision and that is where I presently reside. I'll start making jigs and punches tomorrow so maybe I can get unstuck
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