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About niwotwill

  • Birthday 02/10/1942

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Queen Creek, AZ
  • Interests
    Classic Hot Rods and Ship Modeling

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  1. Mike i read your entire log and now I’m getting ready to start my galley. Still trying to decide on which wood type to use when picked I’ll then rip and mill to size. I think I’ll start my log when I order my timber. i love your work and have one question, oh maybe more but one for now. Did you use silver solder on the stove? Ok another question what silver did you use sheet, wire, or paste? your work is amazing and something to try for Will
  2. Chuck when I downloaded the drawings I see that they are 1/4" scale but I don't see a scale on the drawing that can be used to verify printing accuracy and such. This is very helpful to those who are scratch building the Winnie. Could you put a scale on the drawing for us to use? Will
  3. Yesterday spent placing sweep ports and fairing the sides. I used the same method to get the sweep ports 1/8" square. Ripped a 1/8" strip from a 1/8" boxwood sheet and placed it across the breadth of the ship to align the sweep ports. Next step is on the section 4 of the plans. I still have to test staining and then stain the lower deck. It'll be a couple weeks before I post again as I'll be traveling. Will
  4. More time spent rigging Oh due my finger ache so onto gunport sides. To place the sides I used the plans to mark the location and my jig to insure they'd be 15/32" wide. Fairing the outside and inside took almost a day of carful sanding. I do like this soft wood it's so easy to sand, but also so easy to go to far.
  5. Been to long between posts, as said I'm rigging my Morgan, so I've completed the bulkhead reconstruction. I hate reconstruction almost as much a deconstruction. Spent a day putting the gunport sills in on the starboard side until I realized that I'd read the instructions incorrectly. I'd placed the 1/4" side in the vertical position and the 3/16" side in the horizontal position. Breakout the acetone and soak each glue joint another day spent doing deconstruction. Cleaned up the bulkheads from glue residue and then realized that I might not have enough 3/16 x 1/4 material so I measured and measured and read ahead to see where else I'd need the 3/16 x 1/4. I think I'll have enough. WHEW On to putting the sills in. No more problems. First time a learning lesson. Faired the sills to the bulkheads very carefully, no more broken bulkheads. On to the lintels with no issues. Faired the lintels to the bulkheads with no more breaks. The bulkheads are now quite strong.
  6. I have a Proxxon MF 70 mill that and I'd like to find it a new home. It's less that a year old, slightly used and in perfect condition. It comes with all the original accessories, a machinist vice and 52 milling bits. The bits are double fluted in sizes 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm and 3.0mm. I'll let the whole package go to a new home for $300.00 and shipping. Contact me by PM for addition information Thanks for looking and regards Will
  7. Well with the filler blocks in place and faired along with the deck planking sanded. To get the lower deck planking sanded I made a stick our of boxwood 1/8" by 1/2" and glued sand paper to both sides this allowed me to sand flush up to the bulkheads. Still working on staining. Now its up to fairing the bulkheads outside and inside down to the sizes given in the manual. Oh yeh, only broke three of them. What pain this soft wood is. I thought that with the bulkheads being plywood they'd be stronger, but when sanding the length of the ship the bulkhead do wobble enough to break. So to fix them I felt that just glueing them in place again would not be sufficient so another method was developed. I took some boxwood and planed it down to .02" and glued it on both sides of the fractured bulkhead. I'll make up for the extra thickness by reducing the gunport sides where necessary. To keep the bulkheads in alignment I used the bent strip i used to check alignment seen in a previous post. This kept everything true. Also used another spacer so I could clamp the whole thing together. On to gunport sills Will
  8. Thanks Jim You're right about the decking, but my mistake was type of wood I used. I went to the local big box store and bought Popular and it was the devil to sand. Looks like you used balsa a better choice I think. Will
  9. Hi all, thanks for the likes and comments. It's been a few days and now I faired the filler blocks to create a false deck. I followed the instructions and placed the below deck planking that will be visible through the companionway door. Sanded the deck planking and stained them with wipe on poly golden oak over the bare wood. Boy does the basswood soak up stain in the most blotchy way possible. No other way to describe it but UGLY, UGLY, and more UGLY. Of the reading of how other people has staining success with basswood. In the mean time I made a sanding stick by glueing sandpaper on both sides and started sanding off the UGLY's. All the while I kept singing to myself "a sanding I will go a sanding I will go". Making a sample of planking to test staining methods. Just a sample of my staining experience before sanding.
  10. Your rats nest is starting to make sense and the coiled ropes on the belaying pins are looking superb, very nice work. I have a small comment on the pump discharge pipes, it appears that they discharge onto the hatch cover and into the hold below. Might be me or photo but I thought I'd mention it. Will
  11. Went to my local big box and bought some 3/4" by 1-1/2" poplar to use for filler blocks. I took 2 days to carefully measure and cut the blocks. The hard part was to make sure the block did not move the frame from true square to the BF. I had to sand them so the side that touches the BF was angled to maintain the deck camber. Doing this will make a strong false deck for the planking. The other thing was to make the blocks so a very slight friction would hold them in place while the glue set. Had to go get more poplar as this lent itself too many pieces being too short or the wrong angle for the camber. Even with camber angle I still had to fair the surface but not by very much. Next I'll plank the lower deck that will be visible through the companionway door.

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