Thom

Yes, I do it, too. For this purpose I bent a flat brush around 90 degree so I can "paint" the PVA clue around corners inside the hull.

This gave me an idea, what if you get adhesive backed copper tape (as used for coppering the hull) cut into thin strips and blackened chemically or with a marker. You then just apply the strips around the barrel.

 

Ken

I am using self-adhesive isolation tape, cut in small strips. Only one very tiny drop of cyano glue on the ends. I also do some overlapping because rings in reality also overlapped. It all depends on scale, the larger the scale the more I tend to metal strips. You can also cut the thin aluminium from tea lights in strips.

Thanks to you gentlemen all for posing an answering a question I hadn't thought of just yet.  I would have attempted painting and probably gotten very frustrated.

 

MSW works !!!!!

as - so I think - we have been all with our first painting attempt, something for the horror cabinet of never again made faults ;-)

Hi

This is how I do it: First I sand down these much to thick rings so that I have a flat barrel surface.Than I engrave button and top, because the planks (ohoh.. in german it is called "daube" - don't know the english word, maybe "stave") always are a bit longer and form a ring to hold the buttom and top plate in place. Than I engrave small lines do simulate the "staves" from which the barrel is originally built. Next is to paint or varnish the barrel. Last step I use some small strips of metal, paper oder tape (already blackened) and glue it around.

Greetings

Thom

PS: Maybe take a look at some pics here (please scroll down a bit)

http://www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Dock.html

Smile, watching your log I'm eager to see how many mistakes I've made years ago. Still some dust on my build (at the beginning of rigging). I plan to watch again the movie 1492 with Gerard Depardieu and take a lot of pictures from the tv screen of the Santa Maria for my build. PS: Not yet restarted 'cause victory cross section ist so time consuming

Greetings

Thom

I started this build years ago, back in 2004, without any aid from the internet. I stopped hopelessly when it comes to rigging. Just last month I dusted this one off and made a loooong list of mistakes I have to correct. It's now on my workbench to become something that looks at least like a ship ;-) Maybe take a look on my page www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Dock.html (just scroll a bit down below the victory cross-section - okay, text is in german, pictures not ;-))

the inner hull planks were all sorts of thickneses, and had spaces for air flow, and so on, like Druxey said a book's worth of info.  See 'Anatomy of Nelson's Ships' for some details.  I think all decks are caulked with the exception of the ortholp(spelling?) deck.

Yes, you're right. It's much more complicated than the outer hull. Interesting that deAgo on the Victory Cross Section Model cares for caulking only the upper decks, not the orlop deck, because of it's removable planks.

I like this. Thank you for the collected information. Very interesting indeed.

The 'right answer' would take up several chapters of a book!

 

Probably the best short answer is to look a Ed T's build log of Naiad. You will see how complex this is. The only short answer is to the question of plank length. Standard lengths in the 18th century British yards were either 24' 0", 26' 0" or 28' 0". The butts were staggered or offset from the outside planking for maximum strength.

Hi

Yes, I think you're right, it seems to be very difficult. Most ship models are with a closed hull, and so there are not so much infos to be find in the forums. I think usind the "normal standard length" would be okay, and with the butt staggering you are right, it was with offset to the outer planking (sounds logical).

Okay okay, seems a bit overdosed for my Vic Cross Section Model with 9cm width, I won't do a butt shifting here. But with the build came the question (still sitting in the corner to build Jack Sparrow's Black Pearl with one open hull side).

Thanks for your answer

Hi Folks

First question:

Does anyone know about planking inside a ship, i.e. HMS Victory? Are the planks on the inner hull the same length as on the outer hull? What ist the planking scheme?

Second Question

What about the planks on the lower decks? Are are decks caulked? Or only the main deck? Caulking on lower decks seems a bit too much for me because there isn't much water to sip through?

Many Greetings and lots of sunshine from Germany

Thom

Oops, I'm sorry, Mabe it's my english... Your wrote scrollsaw. I misplaced it with the Proxxon KS230. My fault. But I've got many tools from Proxxon, they're all good in quality and handling.

I am very(!) satisfied with the Proxxon Saw. I have the small one and the middle one (for my 1:1 homeworking projects ;-))

Hi Pavol

I recently finsihed building this kit (maybe have a look on my homepage www.atme-licht.de/Modellbau/Bilder.html). If your'e not so experienced with wooden ship models, I wouldn't suggest this one. The instructions are sometimes... how do I say it the best... not so detailled and sometimes there are no instructions at all. Mainly for the rigging. There are so many points left out in the instructions, you should have a good idea about what you do. I surely liked the idea of the open side so you can have a look inside the ship. So if you're somehow experienced in wooden ship building (I was not ;-)) you should give it a try - nice model I think.

Thom

I remember the good old days using Humbrol paints on my plastic models. It used to cover brilliantly, even dark colours would cover easily in one coat. Nowadays there is no lead in paint so its very watery compared to the old paint with lead. Its a three coat finish to get decent coverage. I think acrylic is the way to go these days.

Yes, in the "good all days" I also used Humbrol Enamel, they were much better than all enamel colors I can now buy here in Germany. Don't know what happened. And so my decision to go for acrylic colors was an easy one.

As to a question above. Sometimes I do a clear coat on wood before using the colors, mainly when drawing straigt lines like waterlines etc. because it lessens the chance of leaking the color. Don't use too much color on wood, the structure should not be overcoated by colore.

Same as Larry. Mostly I am using acrylic paint, because it's (for me) much easier to clean up (and breathe, mainly when using an airbrush). Only problems seems to me with metal colours like copper, gold etc. Now I'm sitting here and listening to other experiences :-)

I have made a simple jig to hold the plank by trapping it down along its whole length 

A piece of base board to mount the jig on  and 2 length's of planking one the same thickness of the planking you are using lets say 4mm x .5mm and one piece at least 6mm x1mm 

I have glued first piece down to the base board 3.5mm from the edge to allow a little over hang the second one is glued on top of the first creating a grove that the plank you are working on can now slide into and hold it tight. Sanding down the whole edge is easy now as the plank is held securely 

I hope this helps 

Andy 

Hi Andy

After some time of imagining I think I understand your jig. Yes, this is a good idea, indeed. I'll think about reproducing this, maybe even with some metal "planks" instead of wood. Now, removing the "big board in front of my head" (do you know this saying in US?) I see how easy this solution is. Just somehow never thought about the idea to mount the holding planks near the edge of the base board. Thanks tou you.

Thom

If you glue the oversized sandpaper to the stick first (I use rubber cement), then cut the sandpaper to the edges of the stick, you will have 'safe' sides that won't mark the adjacent wood as you sand the chamfer.

Thank you, too. That will male a clear sanding stick.

Hey Dafi

Looking through your build log I staggered across this famous Around-The-Corner-Drill. Great idea which I will somehow rebuild. Any tips on making this?

BTW: Greetings from Karlsruhe to Ludwigsburg ;-)

Thom

Wow, didn't think Sketchup could do this. Maybe have a look or two on this tool. Thanks Tony for the post

I usually create a homemade sanding stick.  Its easier when you make one that is a little wider...say 1/2" wide.   Tou can choose whatever grit sandpaper works for you.  I use 220 grit.

 

Chuck

Thank you Chuck. This sounds oky, I'll give it a try. I think I should do more work in my patience ;-) With all these rasps and sticks I find it difficult to get a straight line without getting some "holes" after sanding the hull. Best way for me 'til now is the use of a disc sander. Just going on - some day it will be easy... I hope.

Thom

Hi folks

First please excuse my "it's enough for home"-english

I wonder how you guys treat chamfering planks along the long side for fitting planks around the curved hull shape (I hope chamfer is the right word?!?). I mean okay, sanding free-handed with sanding paper or a file might be the way. But question is: Is there a better way, mainly to get really straight edges? Some kind of jig maybe?

I hope these is not too confusing. Say you have a plank 2mmx5mmx300mm. Now the 2mm side should be chamfered.

Greetings

Thom