Aussie048

Thank you again John, Nenad, George, Druxey and Eamonn.
 
 
Eamonn, I hope you're kidding .
 
Jibboom Horses
 
The jibboom horses are the equivalent to the Footropes on the other yards. They are knotted every 2 scale feet, which takes a bit of careful doing to get them spaced evenly. There is a small eye in the forward end which loops back on itself and then around the forward end of the boom :
 

 

 
The aft ends are passed around the boom aft of the cap and have two seizings to fix them :
 

 
To get the horses to hang naturally I dampened them and attached a couple of clamps about 1/3 of the way in from each end until they dried:
 

 
 Danny

Thanks for the comments Christian, Carl, Ed, Maury, Alex, Mike and Greg. Much appreciated as always.
 
 
Christian - 1050 long (from tip of Bowsprit to tip of Driver Boom) x 740 high x 355 wide.
 
Jib Net
 
This is one of the fiddliest parts to make on the whole ship. It took me 2 1/2 days.
 
It starts by making the two spreaders from English Box. Then the two Horses were threaded through the holes in each end of the spreaders and an eye seized into the inboard end of each horse :
 

 

 
To tie the netting together I constructed a simple Jig :
 

 
Five double lengths of the netting were hitched around one spreader :
 

 
Then the tedious work of tying together every 2nd pair of the longitudinal netting began. The first couple of rows didn't turn out too well under magnification, but look OK to the eye :
 

 
Two days later (I had to wait for the glue to dry on the seizings before continuing on the next row) the second spreader was hitched to the free end :
 

 

 
The net fitted to the bowsprit. The forward ends of the horses attach to the eyebolts in the sides of the cap :
 

 

 
The aft ends of the horses are attached via lanyards to an eyebolt in each knighthead :
 

 
 Danny

I have put the walls in on the gun deck and also put the ledges in that hold up the top deck beams.
The gun ports are started but still need to extend them to their top extremity. I also made them a little smaller than the plans called for, the supplied port lids will fit better if they are 10mm instead of 11mm.
 

 
Next I will prepare the deck beams and install the knees for this deck.

 
 
I also have to finish the cannons and pumps these will need to be fitted before I can fit the top deck, theses I cannot fit from the side after the deck is fitted.
 

continue

end of work

finishing work

вот и всё 

thin chisels does my friend
I do myself with a thick handle, blade from turning cutter
тонкие стамески делает мой друг 
я делаю сам с толстой ручкой лезвие из токарный резец 
 

продолжение

little progress
немного продвинулся вперёд

Netting, some assembly required!
Here is my first try at making the netting and hammocks. Thanks again George.
 
Instead of using the stanchions and the masking tape method of Mr. Hunt, I completely changed the process.
I removed the stanchions from the top of the rail, took a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 wood and notched it to make it look a little like hammocks stored on end. Painted it and glued the netting on one side. After trimming, I added the rope (0.011 inch rigging line) along the top edge and some 1/32 inch wide tape I had for the bottom. The stanchions are simulated with pieces of 0.016 inch line and glued in place.
All of this is done on the bench. I have not done the back side, so the 'installed' piece is still loose.
I may also add some brown lines in the center of the hammocks to make it look more like they are separate bundles.
  
 
At any rate, this is a heck of a lot easier and neater than what I tried to do before.
PS Those close up photos do help. I just noticed that the stanchion to the far right needs a step to the right.
But all that means is to remove the 'stanchion' and replace it with another one in the right place.

You know, George, that is not a bad idea. Instead of the piece of wood I mentioned, hammocks make more sense. 
 
With this and Bill's input above, I have to rethink this whole thing. I am still continuing to make those nettings, but will hold off installing them until I can figure out a nice way to make hammocks. To have a 'rigid' inside (smelly, sweat stained lumps of canvas) would make installing the netting to the outside a bit easier.
Thank you guys for keeping me thinking. I love those inputs.

 
Let me add the picture below of my first try to install the netting on the inside. It is far from pretty and I will have a heck of a time with the rest.
 

So, I stained the deck (Miniwax-Golden Pecan) and stained the hatches (Miniwax-Early American) and painted the bulwarks and main rail; and I'm in the process of adding the planks above the mainrail. I deviated from the practicum and drilled the holes for the plank supports (toothpicks) after I glued the mainrail down; I thought it would be easier to align the angles on the holes since the bulwarks are slightly angled- and it would not matter if I aligned the empty spaced to accommodate the supports- I would just drill right into the wood- I started w a very small bit and graduated to the correct size to avoid wood splitting. I used ModelExpo paint, I like the color, and have never used any other type, so my opinion is limited.

Well, I finished planking the deck. I had a problem, the bass wood supplied by the manufacturer was slightly smaller then the extra strips I bought from Model Expo- I decided not to strive for "perfection" on my first build or it may be 2035 before completing the ship! Ha- it turned out ok, and I'm happy with the way it looks even though I didn't taper the stern end of the planks.

Ok, I went ahead and planked the deck. I just did it the easiest way. I did not taper the stern planks and it seems like it will work. Being an inexperienced modeler I just want to get some experience and maybe be more "historically correct" on my next build.

Started planking the deck. I'm not sure if it's 100% correct; and I again deviated from the practicum- but looks like many others I've examined. Any advice is welcome.

Thanks George, Rich, and Harvey. 
 
With all the snow this weekend I was able to get a lot of the coppering done. Here is the other side to the first gore line. I was able to keep the rows pretty even side to side, although the edges look wavy. 
 

 

 

 
I have to point out that I kept the copper tape at 1/4" instead of cutting it thinner, which I think makes this job easier, as they are easier to handle and I can control the overlap better.
 
Here are the ends after I added the cap plates along the stem and stern post:
 

 

 
I then measured and marked the second gore line. I thought this would be easier than the first, but it also took a number of trys to get it to look right. I was having a hard time envisioning the plates at the stern, but then I noticed the AOS book sitting on a table in the workshop, which has a really nice picture on the cover. It is not done exactly like the MS plans, but it gives a real good idea of how far up the stern post the plates go. Here is the port side plates up to the second gore line:
 

 

 
I started the starboard side at lunch today (another work at home day due to the snow), and may be able to finish that up tonight (except that I have to snow blow the driveway tonight). Then it looks like I need to put more black paint further down the middle of the hull, after which I can add the three dressing belts of planks. Getting the top edge of the top dressing row of planks to be really straight is going to be a challenge. I have a few ideas in mind that may help. More to come on that later.

I got to spend about five hours in the workshop today. I first marked off the first gore line on one side. I cut out the two portions of the plans that showed the plates on the bow and stern. I cut these right at the gore line, then lined them up with the keel to mark the location of the line. I then connected the two lines across the middle of the hull. This took a few tries until it looked right to me, especially in the middle of the hull.
 

 
I marked the line on one side, then used a tick strip to mark it on the other, so they would both be the same. I then started filling in the copper plates to the line. In the bow, the plates are trimmed to fit against the line. I did not need to add any filler rows at the bow.
 

 
At the stern, I did add a filler row.
 

 
And here is that side filled to the gore line.
 

 

 

 
Next I will add the plates on the other side to the gore line. I am hoping that I can keep the rows similar on both sides.

Sorry Boyd didn't see the reply till now! they go on a shelf in the workshop. Back to Victory after a 4 month break with the german kitties! Was nice enough outside on Saturday to get the decks sanded back a little after opening out the holes for masts, hatches etc. Also added a little more timber between the windows.
 
must admit it has been nice getting back to my baby

Update....
 
Build log part 75
 
 
Its probably going to take several more weeks to get all the rigging done, also I would like to do over the white-ensign flag.
The stern lantern is now mounted and some extra pinrails are fixed left and right to the skylight housing before the mizzen mast
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
mainmast staysails have just enough clearance to the main course
 
 

 
think I`ll do the White ensign flag over and a bit larger.....
 
 

 
the mizzen sail arrangement (on its own) looks like a cutter rigging
 
 

 
 

 
ready for rigging : fore sail, fore topsal and yards, fore- and main togallant sails and yards, and the two sprit sails with their yards
 
 

 
stern lantern with support and candle inside
 
 

 
still some lines missing here
 
 

 
I`m quite pleased with the progress so far
 
 

 
fitted each 3-pin rails left /righthand of the skylight
All the coiled line-ends to the pins (all belaying points) will be added later on
 
 

 
mizzen topsail rigging in progress
 
 
 

So I have completed the base of the case. It has all of the slots for the glass and the back routed into it. I also have the inlay completed on it. It looks a bit heavy but should not once the sides and top are on it. I have the corner stiles cut but not yet shaped. You can see on the base where the square holes are for the corners to be inserted into the base. These holes are ⅞" square. The corners will be 1 ⅜" square with the holes in the base being centered on the stiles.
 
I designed it so there is no apparent frame around the bottom or top of the case. The glass sits in a slot on the base. I wanted it to feel more open when looking at the ship.
 
While the base is stained it has no finish on it. I will finish it and the rest of the case at the same time. I needed to stain the base before I routed for the inlay. 
 
Here again are the plans for the completed case.
 

 

 
You can see the routed slots for the glass and inlay in this photo. The thicker slot towards the bottom of the frame will be for the door frames to rest in. Once the door is in place the glass will look like the other sides in that the surrounding door frame will be no larger than the surrounds on the other sides. Since the glass is ¼ tempered, I will cut the small frame and glue it to the glass. My hope is the door will almost be invisible once it is in place. It should look just like the other sides.
 
 The name plate will actually be affixed to a hunk of the Real Connie. I just have it laying on the base right now.
 

 
The inlay is a ¼" wide consisting of three stripes of equal size, black, white, black.
 

 

Second layer (thin orange and thin white mixed, transparent)
 

 

 
Almost there ...
 
On next picture is approx. color I get
 

I finally finished shaping that annoying transom. Both part 54 and 55 are sitting in an ammonia bath at the moment, then will be boiled and then pressed to achieve the curvature shown in the plans. I found that the best way to shape both 54 and 55 is to dowel them together. Even then I found it difficult to offer it to the hull to check the shape, so I doweled it to the model as well. I forgot to take pictures. 
 
But I did get pictures for the replacement cabin piece that I made. As mentioned earlier in the thread, this is supplied as a cast metal piece which should be painted and then fit to the bulkhead. There is no other word for it - this piece is hideous. Thankfully it is hidden away under the quarterdeck, so I could have gotten away with using it if I felt lazy. But I thought I would give it a whirl. 
 

 
This is what I enjoy most about modelling ... actually making stuff out of wood! The windows were made by cutting slits in some thin holly and fitting it together as you would fit grating. It was then thinned down on my disc sander down to 1mm, then glued on a sheet of clear styrene. 
 
You can see this piece compared to the chunky metal piece supplied by the kit. I would normally discard it, but I found a use for it. 
 
 
 
... I painted it with a hidden message to remember my best friend who passed away last year. I also installed some lights to light up the cabin from within. 
 

 
The stern LED's have also been fitted. 

Thanks for the suggestions for the copper plating Steve & Jay.
The copper plates are still a long way off adding to the model, I will finish the interior first, then plank the outside of the hull starting at the top. This way I can get the details around the gangway lined up.
I have just been playing around with what is possible till then.
 
I have started to plank the gun deck.
The raised section has the pumps and the front part without pumps will be the stair landing.
It was caulked with white paper, tree nailed with 24 thou ramin dowel and scraped to a fine finish, varnished with minwax poly.
 


 
Next is to finish the deck, and start cladding the walls around the gunports and working out a method for lining the gunports.then more knees that are more complicated than the lower ones, as they have to go around the gunports.

The table is done. I still have to actually screw the top to the base, but that will be easy. I placed the table where it is going to go today and tried the Connie out on it. As I expected the base that she is mounted to will definitely need to be changed. It does not go well with the walnut. While the table looks a bit bit, the base of the case will step in about 2" all around. We also need to move the column with the salt block somewhere else. So other than being better lit, much better protected and about 4 " higher, this will be the view of her in her new berth.
 
Now to start on the case!
 
 

I have completed 4 coats of the Poly/Oil and will be starting the Oil/Wax tomorrow. I believe the finish recommend two coats (or more) of the Oil/Wax. We shall see. The Apron and Legs are also ready for the coats of Oil/Wax. Once the table has the requisite coats of finish, I will glue it up. Then I will start on the case itself. Doing it this way allowed me to test the finish I wanted before I started with the more complex joinery required by the case.
 
I think I wil be ready to glue the table up by the weekend.
 
Here are a couple photos of the table top. The finish is close to what it will be once the oil/wax is applied. It will be a bit deeper but doubtful the photos would show that.
 
 

Happy Sunday All,
 
I'll offer my meager excuses for my absence - It's been a pretty busy time for us over the last several months with a new job, the Admiral on extended shore leave and Christmas in the mix. I'm pretty happy to say that the Admiral received good news from her Dr and is back on deck now and at the con.
 
I realise it's been a while since my last visit to MSW but I haven't been too idle. I've managed to complete the modifications on the stern and refit the rubbing strakes as well as weather the decks. I uhmmmmed and ahhhhed over what to do with the decks for quite a while, sought some inspiration and then got a rush of blood, masked the boat up and did it. The finished product is growing on me, I wasn't completely satisfied but after a few days and a few more looks at it, I've decided to leave it alone now.  I'm happy with the additional work on the stern as well and can continue on with the build now. Here are the photos.....
 
Have a good one,
 
rowand