Geoff Matson

Great pictures. I am now troubled about the futtock stave. I know the pictures are present day and plans go back in time. I am trying to do this the easiest way. I wish I would have those three seamen on my model to do the job! The area on the shrouds by the top gets pretty crowed pretty quick. That is why I went with the jumps rings. I think it will give me a cleaner look  on the model. And in the last picture, the one with the three seaman and no futtock stave should make the ringing a lot simpler. But you can clearly see the bar on the shrouds. Well, it looks I might have to revisit my plan of attack. And the ring on the bentinck shroud looks like the futtock shrouds on th eiinside just loop back to the bar or stave area. I don't see I could rig that on the model. Again, thanks for the pictures. 
 
Happy modeling

I have been mulling around how to make and install the beatnik shrouds on my Conny. I want to rig as much as possible off the model to make it easier. So far I have made the staves for the lower fore and main mast and placed them on the rigging. Now to make the hooks and rings and then rig them. I know this is gong to be harder than it looks. 

I finished up the ratlines on the lower shrouds. I am glad this part is over. I learned a lot on rigging the ratlines. First, make sure you use long lines to make the knot trying easier. Second, I used my rigging card as a sort of backstop when I tied my ratline. Third, I used diluted white glue to set my knots. This worked out well for making adjustments. Just wet the line to unglue them, make your adjustment and then set the ratlines with the diluted white glue. Fourth, I alternated from port to starboard to keep the tension on the shrouds equal. Fifth, if you have some slack in the shrouds, just wet them with water and will tighten up a bit taking the slack out. Sixth, when you put your eyebolts on the channels for your shifters, pay attention to where they go. My mainmast swifter eyebolts were to close to the shrouds, My foremast and mizzen mast swifter's were at the proper distance. Seventh, I made sure my tweezers were sharp and easy to help tie my lines. Overall, I learned as I went along and I am sure the next section of shrouds will go easier. 

Major milestone. Looks good

At last!  
Planking is done.  The last row was a royal PITA!  but all's well that ends well. 
 
Next steps?  Decide whether or not to paint.  If not, figure out a staining scheme, but experiment mightily first!   To buy time, and not derail construction, I may divert to other aspects of the build - maybe start constructing masts and spars?  Or, as seems very popular amongst others here at MSW, start on the cannons. 
 
But, First things first.  Tonight I celebrate this milestone with a double Manhattan and a fine meal out!  Tomorrow can wait. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

Starting to work on Guns for gundeck.  So need to make 30 of them .   
I am going to use the ME cannon set.  Not the dummy barrels that cam with the kit.
Fairly common issue is the cannon carriage is to short.  Without modification the barrel it will sit too low in the gun port.
My solution was to replace the dowel axels with a taller pieces of basswood to raise the overall height.
 

The wheels will just glue right on to these pieces flush with the deck.
The wheels themselves will hide most of the piece.  So they wont be as obvious.
 
In  some of my past builds, I've had canons break loose.
The tiny wheels/trucks  just don't have enough surface area connecting the deck to stay stuck.   
I tiny bump and they break loose.   Typically this after deck is closed up and I can no longer access to fix.   
With these pieces, there will be a lot more surface area on the bottom piece's to glue to the deck.   
 
Mass producing the  carriages

Testing them on the ship
 

 
 

 
For the wheels themselves,   still want to show the nub of the axis.
Trying to clean, enlarge the hole to fit the axes will split the wheel.
 
Soo ill try using toothpicks.  Glue the wheel on
Saw off the pointy end flush with wheel.  That's  the side that will be glue to the new piece of wood/axil.
On the center side of the toothpick,  I'll cut short length after the wheel to simulate the end of a axil

 

 
 

 
Once the carriages are done.  30x4  = 120 wheels to make.  Geesh.   
Then I'll start looking at rigging.  At a minimal I'll rig  the breech's on all of them.
I'll do more excessive rigging on the 8 cannons that can be seen though the open grating on the spar deck. 
As I'm aiming for an 1812 version of the ship,  I'm leaving waist hatches off.  
 
 
 
 

Double pumps were completed.This has been the equipment I have had the most difficulty in manufacturing and assembling so far.

Hatch coaming was glued and painted.

I started installing the grates. I will only put the grates on the starboard side of the hatch coaming so viewers can see the gun deck details.

“The Chopper” is great for cutting identical gunport frames. The metal attachments and reference lines can provide repeatable cuts. The unit is well built - very solid. The blades are single edged razor blades and are easily replaced. The provide a clean cut on the 1/8” basswood. I haven’t tried it yet on anything much thicker. 

Next I started the rudder.    I'm going with the older,  more square rudder than the current spade like rudder.   Note sure when the switch was made, pre or post 1812....  I didn't see date in the plan / CD.
 
I had roughed out the new rudder earlier... but I needed to make the pintles and gudgeons.
Made a simple jig.  piece of wood 3/16th wide... same as rudder    rounded off one edge. 
Then just bent the brass strips over it.  after a few tries.... was able to get them the right shape.    Made 10 total.   5 for rudder,  5 for hull.
 
  

Pintles were a bit harder to make.   I've never really soldered before....
After a few attempts, I determined I either needed 4 hands to do this.    Using pliers,  one hand to hole gudgeon,  one to hold the pintle, one to hold soldering iron and one to hold the solder wire itself.
 
As that wont work... made another simple jig.
Drilled a hole in a piece of scrape wood  same diameter as pintle
Put the brass wire in hole.
clamp the gudgeon  in proper position
 
Now with two free hands.. can solder away.    I put the soldering iron on the outside. and the solder on the inside of the wire.   heat drew the solder right where it needed to go.
 

 
Drilled a whole lotta tiny holes  for the nails
And a bunch of clean up.


 
Next up... I'll finish coppering the rudder and then attach the hardware.
 
Now a question , opinion from this esteemed group of modelers?
Looking at other Connie build logs....  I've seen several variations on the rudder hardware color.
  1)  leave the brass natural color
  2)  copper sheet over the gudgeons   or paint it copper to match
  3)  paint the brass black   so its black gudgeons contrast against the copper platting.
 
In the pics I've seen,  they all look good.    but I got a pick one before I continue.
so I'll poll you guys.... option.... 1, 2 or 3?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Continuing to respond to your query on Mustafa's (mtbediz) blog, here are the seven additional images I have of the 1797 version model by Mark Antczak.

That is a lot of detail, but that is what makes the model. Nice job

Thanks for all the pictures. Hope you had a good time

You are right about the rigging. That is where I am right now.  I seem to find any excuse to avoid rigging. I do not know why it is such a hurdle to get down to business. That is the one good thing about Model Ship World, it will motivate you get going.  You might want to check out other build logs when you start to do the planking. You might need to put in some spacer blocks or braces between the bulwarks to aid in your fairing. Things are looking great and keep up the good work.

Looking good. It seems like when you think you have it right you can always find a little more to do. Your final test will come when you have your bulkheads all faired and then using a text plank to check how things fit. 

You got the stern filler blocks looking great. Now with the bow filler blocks, it should go a little faster by applying what your learned from the stern filler blocks. GREAT  progress so far.
 

Here is a picture that might help you some. If I remember right, my finish filler block was about half the size of my initial cutout. Lots of sanding and fitting. I just sanded it down until I could get a test plank to flow along the bulkheads and fit into the rabbit joint. You cn see the tail of the filler block gets pretty narrow. Just take your time and be patient. It will all work out. Do not glue the block in until you have it right. (I learned that the hard way). 
 
 

I am also building the Constitution using Bob Hunt's Practicum. You really need to read each step and then think about it and then proceed. LOTS OF DRY FITTING AND FIDDLING AROUND TO MKE SURE THINGS FIT RIGHT.  I too, made mistakes and had to go back and redo some parts. I think we all find out a little mistake in part one can lead to a big mistake by the time you get step 10. However, I could not have built the Constitution with the kit plans. Bob Hunt's practicum really opened the door for my ship building. ERS Rich build log should help you out. The biggest problem about the Constitution is it takes a long time to build. As I built the Conny my modeling skills increased and I wish I had those skills when I started.  Have fun, make some sawdust, and remember it is only a hobby. 

Looking good and a good job on your problem solving. 

Welcome to the group. The Constitution can be an overwhelming model. I think of our plan of working on an easier model to build your skills will pay off in the end
 
 

Main mast bitts have been fabricated and mounted in place.

I made quick work of the 5 stern inner bulwarks planks. I may have over beveled my first plank - according to the practicum (I’m going to call it “the guide” from now on) - I would need to shave the 5th plank a bit to match the 4 Stbd and port planks. Mine however- fit almost perfectly. I had a minor heart palpitation when I realized I still had a full half inch of rear transom risers after laying the 5th plank. I recalled seeing someone’s blog where they were flush with the last plank. Of course - that’s a step coming up soon to prep for the rail. 🙄 Every once in a while I get those moments when I think I totally screwed something up. Probably a hangover from Bob Hunt telling me I should start from scratch and that my rabbet was “terrible”. 😂 

Six down, three zones (or 10 strakes) to go.  Man-oh-man, am I ever ready for this stage of the build to be over!
 
I found some clamps at Amazon that, with a small modification (grinding flat the curved portion that is not visible in the photograph below), works well in the tight spaces I have left.   (See last photo in today's batch)
 
1. That clamp in action:

 
On to the build.
First, work-side up:

 

 

 

 
Then for a change of pace, right side up.

 

 
The clamp ad at Amazon:  Note, I tried gluing a wooden shim on the inside face at the bottom of the clamp as pictured below, but it didn't stick very well. In the end I simply ground off that lip using my belt sander, which made short work of it.  
 

Thanks for all the pictures. Hope you had a good time