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kmart

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  • Content Count

    168
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Boston, MA
  • Interests
    Current Builds:
    HMS Victory Bow Section
    USS Constitution ( Model Shipways)

    Past Builds
    British Armed Launch
    Friesland (Dutch 74 - 1663)
    Roger B. Taney (US Revenue Cutter )

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  1. Looking great. Like how you made the rails. I may copy that techneque when i get to that step. Question for you. What brand of paint and color did you use for gun carrages. I have the me paint set and the carrage red. But it looks to bright. The color you used looks better
  2. Continuing on, The stern windows, As the ME kit is of a modern version of the ship, the kit does not include the window like they do with the quarter galleries. But to look right, the windows need to be sized and be comparable to the quarter galleries. and did I mention they are TINY! Modern Stern The stern I'm aiming for... First Attempt. Did lots of math. Calculated all the spacers I needed. Cut up lots of tiny pieces of wood. Started framing out the windows using the spacers to make square frames
  3. Next up, start the gun-port lids. Soo they gun-port lids all come laser cut... Nice! But it would be too easy if they just fit in the ports. No chance of that! Actual, after I cut them out and sanded off the char, the height was perfect, but the width was about 1 mm too wide. Now as the lids will be open, no one in the world would notice them being 1 mm too wide. But it would bother every time i looked at her me sooo. they must be fixed. Because the hole for the cannon and the portholes are in the center, I cant just take 1 mm off one side
  4. Marking the Copper line So first.... need to get the ship at the right angle to the reference baseline. The Keel is not parallel with the baseline. The bow end of the keel is about 8 mm higher than the baseline than the stern. When I roughed out my stand.. i didn't account for that and made them the same height. That's incorrect. The bow stand needs to be slightly higher. But NOT mm. something less than that. took me longer to do the geometry than to actually fix the stand. fix was just a shim of basswood glued on the bottom
  5. Hey Chuck. I have RW kit on my shelf. But years down the road befor i start her. Ill follow you build in the meantime. If you havnt aready. Search the forum. There was two fabulous builds of RF completed in 2019. Both with great build logs. Also. Before they went out of business. Euromodel had a user build practicion on their website free to download. Had 13 or 14 large pdf on slmost every aspect of build. If you dont have that but want it. PM me and i can send you. K
  6. Jonathan. My sympathy on the loss of your Mother. I like how you built your sheaves. Im aproaching that part soon. Hadnt yet figured out how i was going to male them. May do a varient of your techneque. K
  7. Lol. Well they are medical syrnges. But wont be injecting myself with glue using them. That would be a quick way to harden the arteries. 😁 Not pointy hypodermic needle . More like eyedropper tip. Dont need perscription. They actually work great for applying glue. Very small amounts in controlled fashion in exact spot. Glue doesnt dry out or clog in there. Just use a micro drill or t pin as a cap. Glue stays good. No clogs. Have used same syringe for a year now as my primary glue application tool. John.and usedtosail. Thanks for the positi
  8. Sooo. Starting the white stripe decided to go with Vallejo paints instead of my old stock of floquil. After testing on some sacrificial wood. Vallejo was just so much easier to use. Went on with a brush very easy. levels right out nice, no smell. and the color look good. I was also really worried about using that really old Floquil. It looked ok, but didn't want to risk the model with it. This is coat #1. you can barely see it.. but its there I put on very thin layer at a time. it levels out very nice straight from the bottle. not t
  9. Hello Delphic, I'll grab a front row seat on this one. Right at the start of your build. Always liked the looks of USS Rattlesnake. Always; eyeing that one when it goes on sale... maybe after I finish the kits already sitting on my shelf. 🙂
  10. 1 more update. So when I put in the gundeck planking and bulwarks... at the time I didn't put in the green waterway. Time to correct that. Because its the gun deck and will be barely visible.. I didn't try to do the proper shape Just left it a rectangular profile. Painted up several strips and added. And side view...If you look close in addition to the waterway... I've been adding some of the pre-paint details You can see I have the lower deck port lights also installed. They will get painted in position when th
  11. More updates So in addition to making the channels. I'm getting the hull closer to painting. First step.. Sanded the whole hull with 320 grit. Next I used Areo Gloss Filler to coat the hull. This is what they used back in the 70 and 80s to make model rockets. Its basically a lacquer based sanding sealer with fine filler. They discontinued it for years.. but was in the hobby shop and they had some in stock. So I bought. Brushed on the hull... Let dry Sand again 320 grit Second coat + sand. And the result
  12. Time for my next post. While I haven't posted in awhile I have been making progress on my build. First up.... I finally got around to fixing the forward gun-port. From way back last year.. when I framed in the gun-ports, I used a jig to ensure all the ports were equally sized and square. The jig also spanned athwart ship to do the matching gun-port on opposite side. This worked great for almost all the gun-ports. The foremost port is where the hull curves in to at the bow. Well using my jig,, these forward ports came out square and matching with its pair. But becau
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