Geoff Matson

I made quick work of the 5 stern inner bulwarks planks. I may have over beveled my first plank - according to the practicum (I’m going to call it “the guide” from now on) - I would need to shave the 5th plank a bit to match the 4 Stbd and port planks. Mine however- fit almost perfectly. I had a minor heart palpitation when I realized I still had a full half inch of rear transom risers after laying the 5th plank. I recalled seeing someone’s blog where they were flush with the last plank. Of course - that’s a step coming up soon to prep for the rail. 🙄 Every once in a while I get those moments when I think I totally screwed something up. Probably a hangover from Bob Hunt telling me I should start from scratch and that my rabbet was “terrible”. 😂 

Six down, three zones (or 10 strakes) to go.  Man-oh-man, am I ever ready for this stage of the build to be over!
 
I found some clamps at Amazon that, with a small modification (grinding flat the curved portion that is not visible in the photograph below), works well in the tight spaces I have left.   (See last photo in today's batch)
 
1. That clamp in action:

 
On to the build.
First, work-side up:

 

 

 

 
Then for a change of pace, right side up.

 

 
The clamp ad at Amazon:  Note, I tried gluing a wooden shim on the inside face at the bottom of the clamp as pictured below, but it didn't stick very well. In the end I simply ground off that lip using my belt sander, which made short work of it.  
 

Thanks for all the pictures. Hope you had a good time

That pump looks great.  I appreciate all the time that went into making the pump

Gripes installed.  The straps are made from black construction paper.  I did not use the rings from Model Expo because they were too small and the next size up was too big.  These are the same rings I used as breeching rings on the 24 pounder guns on the gun deck.  I have lost track of where I got them.

Now to rig the main braces.  I will also attempt to hang the flag which will add a dash of color.  Whether or not I use it will depend on being able to make it hang in a realistic fashion.

Flag installed.

This completes the model (!!!!!!).

Now my attention turns to finalizing the display starting with the cradle.  I would like to do this in mahogany to match the base board.  Let's see how it comes out.  Worst case scenario- I am unable to improve on what I have, in which case, I will paint the current cradle black.  We shall see.  More posts to come.

The Waterway and inner Planksheer are done. They were not very difficult from a technical standpoint (simple angles and shaping) - but they required a lot of patience. The shaping was good enough that I was able to use wood glue. Additional faring of the upper bulwarks was needed. 
 
I’ve now begun the inner bulwarks planking. The plank strips require some fine finishing with 400 grit sandpaper. Lots of measuring, cutting, gluing and clamping. The planks at the bow require some shaping and a touch of CA. 

Thoughts on painting. I never contemplated leaving Connie au natural. We all love this hobby for different reasons. Mine is not to showcase my skills (perhaps b/c they are novice), rather - to present a beautiful representation of history into my house that spurs conversation on the subject matter that I chose to spend so many hours upon. I was proud of my 1st time planking my only other model, the Swift. But b/c my planking results were uniform (after hours of sanding!), after painting- it was hard to tell it was an individually planked model. People who understand quality and detail, notice the planking upon close inspection. Others dont - but they would never appreciate the effort anyway.
 
So I paint. Now - traditional or air (spray)? I’m constantly humbled in this forum by the skill and historical accuracy & interest  attempted by my fellow modelers. Some folks present copies of original period plans of lower deck details. After hours of analysis, planning and execution- they then spray paint their ship. This I don’t understand. I mean absolutely NO disrespect - but after many hours expended in making a model historically accurate - why spray paint? I’ve been on the USS Constitution - and the thick layers of uneven paint give it an historical feeling of age, time, history and wonder. Like an old home’s wooden window sills. 
 
I’ve added some pics of a recent trip - (painting was not my focus). Anyone who has visited the Connie, or any other historical ship - will understand the feeling that layers of paint convey a sense of history. In my personally humble opinion- the difference between painting and spray painting an historical ship model is like the diff between the old Star Wars Movies that utilized actual models, and the newer movies with CGI. If you care - you will notice.

I too followed the Hunt recipe.  I looked at my own build log to refresh my memory.  This is all I have on the subject of foremast reinforcement tab.

Three Waterway sections completed - 2 to go. I went to Hobby Lobby with my daughter for a school project and found a piece of 3/16x3” basswood, so I decided to fashion the bow waterway in 2 sections vs the Hunt plan to use the supplied wood and use 4 pieces. The phone cam makes the bulwarks and keel look bent (they aren’t!). I’ll add the planksheer when the Waterway is completed. You can see where it was necessary to sand and shim areas for the decking. 
 
Question to the Conny builders about the mast reinforcements. I’ve been wondering if I should’ve cut the foremast reinforcement tab - the laser cut parts form a tab that rises (the mizzen and main mast sections were flush). I was wondering if this was meant to encourage the correct angle, or extra strength? How did y’all deal with it? I can still cut it out but not sure if I should.

Waterway & Planksheer
 
The waterway is made up of numerous unique angles and shaping. It’s a difficult timber to get right. If you’re using hand tools - it may be a true test of your patience, perhaps more than skill. I won’t get into the detail, because I simply followed Hunt’s cook book. For plank bending - I cranked up my on demand water heater by 50 degrees and used the hot tap water to bend the planks (gently!) by hand*. It took a few attempts to heat - then clamp - but each time resulted in a better fit. I primed and painted the waterways using the Model-Expo USS Constitution paint kit - Bulwarks Green. I chose to fit, then glue the transom waterway first. Additional waterways and planksheer remain.
 
I included a picture of many of the tools necessary. I missed a few - including the painting.
 
*Every modeler will find their “special” talent. Mine is bending wood by hand. I utilize a modified soldering gun for extreme curves (typically bow and stern). For everything else - I simply use hot or very hot water (depending on the wood) and bend the wood with my fingers. Knock on wood - I’ve yet to snap one. Gotta say the waterways sure had my concentration.
 

I know the feeling.  My shipyard seriously needs some renovation, my motorcycle needs an oil change, my wife's honey-do list is growing (and is encroaching on shipyard space as well as my time there), and a new keyboard will be arriving this morning, which will require assembly and at least a few days of dedicated time to pour over owner manual and get used to.  (Can't wait!)   The next zone of planking on my build may be delayed..
 
For someone who doesn't like rigging, you sure do it well.  😉 
 
I'm watching your progress carefully now, but will really zoom in to the details when I finally get to that stage of my build.

With spring time lots of outside stuff to get done. I do not like rigging so it is easy to find things to do first. I will be back hard at it this next week. Thanks for the interest and I will be posting soon

I made some progress on the foremast top. I try to do as much pre rigging off the model as I can. I am so afraid of breaking something. I will do the same for the mainmast top and mizzen mast top. Lots of knots and I am glad I have the third hand to help out. I posted a couple of pictures of the progress. I have a picture of the deadeye seized and done up. It looks like one big rats nest, but it does sort itself out when I rig the dead eyes.

I have finally made my goal. I can fully rig the futtock and bentinck shrouds off the model. All I have to do is fish the hooks through the ringing and attach them to the bottom of the deadeyes. Then glue the pin in the bottom of the bentinck rigging in the deck. And lastly use the seizing at the top thimble to make the final adjustment, glue it place with diluted white glue and snip off the end. Now all I have to do is make four of these subassemblies and I am good to go. 

I finished my foremast lower shroud ratline rigging. Lots of knots and lots of time. I am happy the way it turned out. It is really a learning experience as I go. A few techniques I learned as I progressed is I wet the ratline line first and then tie the knots. The water on the line seems to make the knots set and stay in place better. Then I set the knots with diluted white glue after each row is done. I am working from the bottom to the top. I am leaving the tails on each end of the ratlines in case I need to make some adjustments. As you are working it seems easy to snag line as you work your way up. 

I am making some progress on my shroud and ratline rigging. To keep everything equal, I am tieing the ratlines on both sides as I progress up the foremast. There are lots and lots of knots. I think I am getting a system with the clove hitch. The tweezers really help out a lot. One thing I found is that it is better to have a long line of thread to tie the knots. The short thread seems mohave mind go its own and goes where ever It wants. I usually go about five rows of ratlines and then double check them with my card and then set the knots with diluted white glue. (Elmer's). I also use just water with brush to help take some slack out of the lines. That is why I am doing both sides of the shrouds to make sure I don't get too much tension on the masts. So are it seems to be working. 

I made some progress on the foremast top. I try to do as much pre rigging off the model as I can. I am so afraid of breaking something. I will do the same for the mainmast top and mizzen mast top. Lots of knots and I am glad I have the third hand to help out. I posted a couple of pictures of the progress. I have a picture of the deadeye seized and done up. It looks like one big rats nest, but it does sort itself out when I rig the dead eyes.

I have finally made my goal. I can fully rig the futtock and bentinck shrouds off the model. All I have to do is fish the hooks through the ringing and attach them to the bottom of the deadeyes. Then glue the pin in the bottom of the bentinck rigging in the deck. And lastly use the seizing at the top thimble to make the final adjustment, glue it place with diluted white glue and snip off the end. Now all I have to do is make four of these subassemblies and I am good to go. 

Sometimes when you don't post for several weeks, it doesn't mean you were not working on your model. In my case, it was several weeks of mistakes and figuring out how to do things. I decided to scrap several plans of rigging the futtock and bentinck shrouds on my Conny. After doing lots of research and viewing the pictures from the above posts by GSGerson I decided to go a different way. My main plan was to rig as much as I could off the model. When you view the photos on the real Constitution, the area of rigging under the fighting tops looks like a big spiderweb. Then if you figure in all the seizings it just looked clunky. 
 
I made all the metal parts using 28 gauge black annealed wire. My main tool was my needle nose pliers The end of my pliers was the diameter of my ring. There was a little learning curve, but it all went well. I even tried to simulate the serving on these parts with line. But, it was beyond my pay grade. I feel this gave me a less cluttered look and it looks more realistic. The real trick was to get these parts made and make them look close to scale. Please realize I have some paint touch up on the rings and metal parts. 
 
This is part one of the subassembly 

I have come up with my plan for the Futtock and Bentinck shrouds. I did not like the kit supplied parts so I made my own. I made the hooks, and jumps rings out of wire, instead of hearts, I opened up some thimbles and used them instead. 

I can rig the futtock shrouds and the bentinck shrouds off the model. My connecting point will be the large jump ring. I will have two parts, on the top the futtock shrouds and on the bottom the bentinck shroud.

Each futtock shroud will have a hook, two small jump rings in the middle, and then a smaller jump ring on the end. There will be five of them on each side.

Each bentinck shroud will be attached to the waterway with a wire wrapped thimble with a lanyard in-between the two thimbles. The top end of the bentinck shroud will be seized to the large split ring. There will be two of them. One on each side of the model.

While on the model, the lower ends of each futtock shroud will be slipped on the large jump ring. 

My final adjusting point will be the seizing at the bottom of the bentinck shroud. Once it has been adjusted it will be seized with diluted white glue like the rest of the seizings.

I hope this all makes sense. Now all I have to do is make 20 futtock shrouds and 4 bentinck shrouds for the fore and main mast.

I am making some progress on my shroud and ratline rigging. To keep everything equal, I am tieing the ratlines on both sides as I progress up the foremast. There are lots and lots of knots. I think I am getting a system with the clove hitch. The tweezers really help out a lot. One thing I found is that it is better to have a long line of thread to tie the knots. The short thread seems mohave mind go its own and goes where ever It wants. I usually go about five rows of ratlines and then double check them with my card and then set the knots with diluted white glue. (Elmer's). I also use just water with brush to help take some slack out of the lines. That is why I am doing both sides of the shrouds to make sure I don't get too much tension on the masts. So are it seems to be working. 

With spring time lots of outside stuff to get done. I do not like rigging so it is easy to find things to do first. I will be back hard at it this next week. Thanks for the interest and I will be posting soon

I completed the gun deck hatch's stancions and hand ropes. I made two ladders from the spar deck to the gun deck and since they were still reachable I added stancions for the hand ropes because the beams would prevent me from reaching them later.

I made the chain pots and fixed them in place. These are where the anchor chains or ropes are transferred across the gun deck and into storage areas. I then hauled the anchor chains onto the gun deck.