Glenn-UK

I am currently doing a running challenge to raise for cancer research as my wife is currently undergoing treatment for stage 4 cancer which we've been told can be treated and managed with drugs and probably surgery. Further details can be found on my Facebook page. The second planking is progressing slowly. I have added 9 downward planks so far and so far I am pleased with how they look. I have started to laterally bend the tapered planks which really helps with the fit around the bow. The stern area is not too bad either, noting I will need to trim some of the planks. I didn't notice until I tool this photo that I will have to try to release one plank and reset as it has not been glued, as shown by the arrow below. I have also added the garboard plank. In the first two photos below I am test fitting the plank. I did use a carboard template to get the right shaping for the bow end. I opted to use wood glue for the garboard plank so plenty of clamps were used. All looked good once the clamps were removed.

It did not take too much effort to sand the hull smooth. I did a few trial fits of the second planking as I went along to make sure I was happy, especially with the termination of the planks with the stern post and stern counter. Once that was done the keel outer patterns, stern post and outer stern counter pattern were glued in place, as can be seen below. Next task was to add the ready to the second planking. With the planks laid out I did colour match as there is quite a bit a variation between the kit supplied planks. It not really an issue as the hull will be painted and copper plated. The first two rows of planking have now been fitted to each side. Close up of the bow area. And now a close up of the right hand side stern area. I will need to add a small filler piece as indicated by the arrow. And now a close up of the left hand side stern area, noting the small filler piece has been fitted.

I have now completed the first planking of the Grecian hull. This was an easy hull to plank and I am reasonably pleased with the outcome. As can can seen in the first photo below I did have to add a steeler. You will also note I did also add a very small filler piece above the steeler. The completed planked Grecian hull is now shown in the next two photos. To complete the set I have added a photo of both the bow and stern areas. Before moving on to sanding the hull I decided to do a dry fit of both the stern counter outer pattern and the keel outer patterns. I did have to slightly trim the plank edges so the stern counter outer pattern was aligned with the inner pattern.

Looking good Jim, great work as always.

After a short break away I am now back in the shipyard and I have made very good progress with the first layer of planking. The first 5 downward planks (both sides) have been fitted in the first three photos below. In the next few photos I am showing the method I have been using for fitting the planks. Each strake comprises a bow and a stern plank, which joins at the double width bulkhead. I always start with the bow strake and I shape the leading edge so it follows the bow curve. Next I determine and mark the crossover point. Once the plank has been tapered the planked it is held in place so its position can be marked. This makes the fitting, after the glue has been added, much easier as it is a very good point of reference. Next I shape the end of the stern plank And as per the bow plank I add a positional marker. The planks, left and right sides, are now ready to be glued in place. I have marled the underside with an identifier. The planks are then glued in place. This is how the hull looks after a few more planks have been added. The final set of photos show the completed bow section. I do need to trim on plank, as can be seen below. The stern section is almost complete. I am now in process of working out where to add the stealers. It will not take too much effort to complete the planking.

So far it has been an easy hull to plank, that said I am going very slowly at the moment makings sure I am happy with how strake looks before I glue in place. Fingers crossed it will continue to be relatively straightforward, so far there has been no need for any lateral plank bends which is a bonus.

I have now made a start of adding the first planking layer. For the first few downward strakes I will use the double bulkhead as a join so I can add a bow facing and stern facing strake separately. This makes shaping the bow and stern termination much easier. In the photo below I have prepared the first set of strakes for both sides noting I did taper the bow facing ones. The hull has been placed on a towel in readiness. Before the strakes were fitted I did bevel the top edge of the strake. In the following set of photos the first strake has been glued and pinned in place. I am really please with how this looks. In the next set of photos the second strake has been added. I did bevel the top edge of the second strake to get a better, tighter fit. Next it was time to add the add the garboard strake. I positioned a plank and marked the start point where the plank needs to be trimmed to follow the curve. Using a scrap piece planking material I made a template for the bow curve. Using the template I transferred the bow shaping to the plank. Once the plank had been trimmed and I was happy with the fit the garboard plank was glued and pinned. I did slightly bevel the plank edge which butts up to the keel. I repeated the same process to add the garboard plank on the other side.

Following on from my last post the inner bulwark patterns, after a little bit of fettling, were glued them in place and then clamped. As can be seen in the following set of photos I did use the pin locating hole to ensure they were correctly positioned. The next set of photos were taken after all the clamps were removed. I felt this would now be a good time to test fit the catheads and thankfully they both slotted in without too much effort. I add a bit wood to the bottom edge so they actually sits on the deck. After removing the excess timber from the stern section of the bulwarks the inner stern counter pattern was fitted and the hull is now ready for the next phase of the build which will be to add the first layer of planking. At the widest point the hull will require 15 planks, and as indicated in the build manual, the first plank will need to be tapered to fit around the bow section. I plan fit each strake as two planks using the double width bulkhead 9 for the join.

The laser etch deck has now been glued in place. I applied a layer of glue to the central section of the base deck as the outer edges will be held in place when the inner bulwark patters are added. Whilst waiting for the glue to dry I did a bit more work on some of the deck items. I have opted for a paint finish of the binnacle as shown in the photos below. Next I completed the assembly of the skylight. I decided the base frame would look good painted black with the skylight window frames painted red with black window frames. Having abandoning using the syren wheel for this project I have painted the wheel and ships wheels frames. I have also added the thread to the wheel drum. I did a trial test fit on deck. The ships drum does need to be rotated when it is finally installed so the two thread ends are correctly positioned for the rigging blocks. Next I added the binnacle and skylight to the deck (dry fit only) More deck items were test fitted, which confirmed that the laser etched deck was perfectly aligned with the base deck beneath as I did not have to do any work when inserting the various items into their respective locating holes. Finally I set about fitting the inner bulwark patterns which is still WIP. I trimmed the front and rear edges of both patterns and then they were test fitted, using pins to ensure the gun ports were all correctly aligned. As can been seen in the photo below the bottom edge of the port pattern will need trimming at the bow end as it is sitting proud. It was a completely different story with regards to the starboard pattern which was a great fit at the bow end but the final stern section was sitting proud, as shown below. There is no movement in the deck to push down any further so I will have to trim the bottom edge.

Over the last three days I have been working on the hull. The first task was to fair the hull. I took my time and, fingers crossed, I have done a reasonable job. It appeared to look OK when I checked it with some test planks. Next the outer bulwarks were fitted. I did experiment with scoring and bending the lower rear section with some test pieces and in the end I opted to use the scored method, as per the prototype. I also used the outer pattern of the rear cabin to help with the alignment. Next the outer pattern was clamped in place and so its lower position and channel positions could be marked in readiness for gluing in place. Pins were used to ensure the patterns were correctly aligned. The patterns were then glued in place. After the bulkhead ears were removed I decided to test fit the various deck items. The laser etched plywood deck was then fitted. It did require a little bit of sanding to get a good fit. The inner bulwark patterns were then test fitted but they require a little bit of work at either end before they can be fitted.

With all work completed on the armaments they are now safely stowed away to be installed at a much later date. It is now time to turn my attention to the hull construction activities and it has been a very productive days work. First task was to add the locking leys to the hull frames. I did removed the laser char from the sides and slightly rounded the leading edge of the locking pins and I was pleased with the relative ease required to fit the keys. More support pieces were then added. The two base decks were then added which are held in place using locking keys. The next task was to assemble bulkhead 17, a test fit was performed, as shown below. Before gluing these parts in place I prefer to pre fair the various parts. I have marked up the various parts. The next photo shows the parts after they have been faired. The parts were then glued in place and only required a little bit more sanding. Bulkhead 17 was then added to the hull. Next task was to add the various deck beams. I did also pre fair one of the bow shapers. The next task was to add the 0.8mm deck patterns. The main deck section was slotted over the bulkhead ears and with a little bit of gentle persuasion the part clicked into place in to all the locating slots. The rear deck section was then added. All looks good so far. The hull was then inverted so diluted glue could be brushed into the joints. As I progressed on with the next couple of stages I realised that I had somehow missed adding the inner most bow shaper (left and right). Thankfully I was able to release the plywood deck and to then insert the missing parts. The deck was then clipped back in place.

I have now completed assembling the various armaments. In the end I have made 8 x 6 pounder cannons, 4 x 4 pounder cannons and 8 x 18 pounder carronades. I do have another 2 partially built 18 pounder carronades which I will complete. I did end up removing the carronade ringbolt straps and ringbolts from the carronades as I thought they looked a bit chunky and did have a tendency to fall off at the slightest touch. I have not found a reliable method for aligning and securing the carronade ringbolt straps and ringbolts to the sides of the carronade gun carriage. 1 x 6 pounder cannon. I will probably add breaching rings to the appropriate side eyebolts. I used some spare belaying pins for the handle on the carriage quoin noting it is a bit oversized. 1 x 4 pounder cannon I will probably add breaching rings to the appropriate side eyebolts. 1 x 18 pounder carronade The complete set of armaments I have also painted the frames of the various hatches black. The capstans has also been painted. At the moment I have painted the top section green but I might opt to use a different colour. The underside has not been painted as this area is not visible once installed. The catheads have also been painted. I might add some embellishments to the side engravings and end caps at a later stage. The two hand pumps wooden parts have been painted are are now ready be assembled with the PE parts. I also now have an option to build and try out the Syren Elm Tree pumps which will be a side build project at some point in the future. The ships wheel drum has been painted black. It will require a gentle sanding to removed some of the rough edges. I also now have an option to build and try out the Syren ships wheel which will be a side build project at some point in the future. Finally, for this post, the Syren serving machine has arrived. I have removed the laser char and assembled the basic frame, as shown below. I have also assembled the four wooden cogs and operating handle. This project is now on the back burner. Now that I have completed building much of the deck items I will now start to build the hull, but this will have to wait a couple of days due to grandparent duties.

I have been making some more deck items. The first two photos show the WIP on the two hand pumps. All the PE parts have been chemically blackened. The hand pump wooden assemblies have been glued together. All that is left to do it to add the PE parts. I have ordered two elm pumps from Syren so I am waiting for that to arrive before proceeding any further. I have also assembled the two bitts. I am currently making the various armaments, which consist of 18 pounder carronades, 6 pounder cannons and 4 pounder cannons. The build manual does detail the armaments fitted as follows: US Privateer, Grecian was fitted with only 2 x 6 Pounder and 2 x 4 Pounder carriage guns Royal Navy service Grecian was fitted with 8 x 18 Pounder carronades and 2 x 6 Pounders carriage guns Pictures in build manual was fitted with 12 x 18 Pounder carronades, 2 x 6 Pounders and 2 x Pounder carriage guns I am unsure what combination of armaments I will use for this model. I started to assembly 10 off 18 pounder carronades. As shown in the photo below the carriages have been painted and assembled and they just waiting the PE parts and the 18 pound carronade barrels to be added. I took great care with painting the 18 pounder carronade wheels, as can been seen below. 4 off 4 and 2 off 6 pounder cannon carriages have been painted red and the PE parts blackened. The carriage wheels are also ready be added. The first two 18 pounder carronades have now been assembled. I have also built 2 x 6 pounder and 4 x 4 pounder carriage guns. I have added the carronade ringbolt straps and ringbolts but as they have a tendency to fall off I am not sure if I will use them for this model.

It will slow down when I start working on the hull😀

I have continued to work on building up some of the deck items and I will continue with this approach for the time being before returning to the hull assembly. All the hatches have now been assembled. The coamings are only dry fitted at the moment as I intend to paint the hatch frames black. The ladder was probably the easiest assembly of this type I have assembled. I have also assembled the binnacle (eyebolts to follow) and the capstan. My current thinking is to apply a varnish finish to the binnacle and to maybe to paint the laser etched decorative patterns black, red or green. I will probably paint the lower section of the capstan black and to paint the top section red or green. The top circular infill will be painted black. I have assembled the ships wheel PE parts and have done a dry fit of the ships wheel assembly, as can be seen in the the two photos below. I have also ordered a 24mm Ships Wheel from Syren which is currently on it way to the UK from the USA. I can then make a decision which ships wheel I prefer. I have also order the boxwood elm tree pump kit from Syren. I can then decide which pump assembly I prefer when it arrives. I might even amalgamate the two pump kits. I have also ordered a serving machine and a set of the 3D printed rigging blocks and deadeyes from Syren as I am keen to try adding served shroud and stays when rigging. I do particularly like the look of the 3D printed deadeyes so thought I would it was worth getting a set for this build to try out.

I have finished building and painting the 20ft cutter. As you will note I have added the white tips to the oars. I am really pleased with the end result. The tiller housing comprises an inner and outer pattern which have to be aligned and glued together. I took great care to ensure the parts were properly aligned and once I was happy the parts were clamped whilst the glue cured. I then moved on to adding the hawse bolsters to the hawse patterns and the outer patterns to the rudder. I used some pins to ensure the rudder outer patterns were correctly aligned. Next I assembled the catheads swiftly followed by the bread hatch. Finally I built the skylight frame. In the photo below the skylight window frames have be placed in position but they are not glued in place as I have not decided on the finally colour scheme for the deck items.

I have spent a bit more time working on the 20ft cutter today. I made a cardboard template of the stern sheet (rear seat). Once I was happy with how the template fitted I was able to adjust the actual part so it was a good fit. Next I removed the top section of the leading 3D printed bulkhead (red arrows in the photo below) to aid the fitting of the bow knee. When sanding the laser char from the rudder the tiller arm did break off into several small bits. I was able to make a replacement tiller which was glued in place. You cant see the join in the photo below which is taken part way through the painting process, as the tiller arm will be painted white later on. I have also started to paint the oars, noting the ends will be have a white tip added, as indicated by the red arrow in the photo below. The boat fittings are now ready to be fitted, noting I will need to touch up the white bits on the oars and to also add the white tips. The hull has been painted white, noting the top outer section will be painted green. I have painted the internal hull withe a dark brown. It does look a bit chocolatey but I think it will pass muster when all the deck fittings have been added. I have fitted bulkheads 1 -16 to the keel. The keel inner patterns have also been fitted. I have not fitted the locating pegs which will be the next task. I was a bit concerned with the fitting of bulkhead 5 which sits proud of the top of the keel, as can be seen in the photo below. I did check and confirm the bulkhead was fully seated and when I looked at a photo on Jim's prototype build log I noted his looked the same - phew!

Welcome to all the followers.

I am starting another Vanguard Models kit, this time I am going to build "The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian". Grecian was an American schooner launched in 1812. During the War of 1812 she received a letter of marque. The Royal Navy captured her on 5 February 1814 and took her into service as HMS Grecian. I think this will be an interesting boat to build given the sleek lines of the hull. I am also thinking about trialing some different ideas during this build process such as trying out the 3D printed blocks and deadeyes from Syren. I am not sure about the green paint finish but I do like the way @ECK Grecian looks so it still a definite maybe. At the moment I am more inclined toward using the AK11817 RLM 65 (1938) Grey or the AK11180 Imperial Blue instead. The shipyard has had a good clean and tidy up and is ready now ready and waiting for me to start work on the Grecian. The kit finally arrived this afternoon. I thought I would start this project with building the 20 foot cutter. It seems to be a simple task. There is a 3d printed hull and a 1mm wooden sheet with all the fittings. Before painting the hull and fittings I thought it would it be a good idea to test fit the fittings. The floor and rear floor both seem to be a good fit. The bow knee and/or hull will need a bit of fettling as the 3D printed bulkheads appears to be preventing the bow knee from sitting on the ledge. (Post Amendment The knee is located at the top and not on the ledge) I have similar issue with fitting the stern sheet (rear seat). The various thwart seats seemed to be a good fit however the thwart / seat knee will require a slight adjustment.

Thanks Maurice. She has now been put on display in our living room.

I have now completed all the the work on my Harpy build. This has been one of my most enjoyable builds. I have made a few mistakes during the build and rigging process but overall I am very happy with how the finished model looks. @chris watton continues to set a very high bar with the standard of his kits and I am looking forward to starting my next project which will be The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian. Many thanks to everyone who has viewed my build log and for the likes and comments.

Not much more left to do. This morning I have redone the spritsail yard braces so the spritsail yard is now set square with relation to the bowsprit. As a result I will have to tighten up one of the lifts, as can be seen in the photo below. I did end redoing the starboard side anchor rigging with the double block properly rigged. All the stunsail booms have been added. There is still a little bit more of tiding up to do and to make the perspex stand. To complete this, hopefully, penultimate build log post I have added photo of the Harpy on the workbench.

Just a quick update. The port side anchor as now been rigged, and this time I did reeve the thread through the double block correctly, as can be seen in the photos below. The end is now very much in sight for this build.

Working on fitting the anchors today. I am using the following picture as the basis for this task. The first task was to seize the hawse rope to the anchor, as is shown in the next two photos. Next an eyebolt, seized with some 0.25mm natural thread was added to the cathead. The rigging was then reeved through the double block and the cathead, noting I had a senior moment and inexplicably forgot to reeve, as it drops down from the cathead, back through the double block, as can be seen in the next photo. The anchor was then secured to a timberhead. The completed anchor fitting is shown below, noting I have not corrected my error. In the interest of being correct I should correct my mistake but I am not sure if I can be bothered at this stage, noting once built the Harpy will not be on display. My enjoyment is in the building of the models and once completed the tend to languish on the sidelines. I do have two small Vanguard model fishing boats on display in our living room and my completed Sphinx model is currently on display in our dining room. I did sell my completed Indefatigable model to a Captain Horatio Hornblower fan where it is on display and can be appreciated. I will repat the above for the port side anchor and this time I will try to reeve the thread correctly.

Just a quick update. I have now made two anchors and, as indicated in my last post, I am not going to fit the other two anchors. The completed anchors have had a coat of varnish. The weaponry has been placed on the deck.