Glenn-UK

Build Log - Day 13 (19th Nov 2025) Task 35 – Banding Preparation After fitting the first 3 full width planks and the garboard plank I was left with a gap of 80mm to fill at the midships, which would require 20 x 4mm planks to fill. I think it will be a good idea to split the infill area into 4 bands, with each band comprising 5 planks. I took some measurements and then calculated the planking requirements. as follows: Stem Post BK 1 BK 2 BK 3 BK 4 BK 5 BK 6 BK 7 BK 8 BK 9 BK 10 BK 11 BK 12 Length To Fill 40mm 48mm 65mm 74mm 80mm 80mm 80mm 80mm 80mm 76mm 74mm 74mm 74mm Band Width 10mm 12mm 16.5mm 18.5mm 20mm 20mm 20mm 20mm 20mm 19mm 18.5mm 18.5mm 18.5mm Plank width 2mm 2.4mm 3.3mm 3.7mm 4mm 4mm 4mm 4mm 4mm 3.8mm 3.7mm 3.7mm 3.7mm I made a couple of paper templates, one for the bow area and one for the stern area. I added the required curve to the bow section template which will help with the lateral bend. Using a spare piece of 4mm planking material I made a bow plank (from bulkhead 4 to stem post) and a stern plank (from bulkhead 8 to stern post) using the above table measurements and templates as guides. I was happy with how they both looked when test fitted. The test planks, when held against the hull, both appeared a good fit, therefore I can now proceed with planking the first banding section. Photos The paper template is being checked in the photo below. I took my time to get the right shape for the top edge. The bottom edge and drawn planks could have been neater. The stern template. I did make a hash of cutting the bottom edge. I also did a test the template around the stern counter as would like to fit two planks to the outer edge before the planking has to rotate so it terminates with the bottom edge. I did purchase a set of proportional dividers to help with tapering the planks. It has been correctly set in the photo below. Test lateral bending of tapered bow plank, using the template as a guide. Test fit of the test plank, looks OK, noting it was not colour matched.

Build Log - Day 12 (15th – 18th Nov 2025) Task 31 – Second Planking Preparation Before commencing with adding the planks there was a bit of background work required. I had decided to use a 4-butt shift pattern for the second planking. With reference to the information contained in Longridge's book Anatomy of Nelson's Ships I created the following plan contained in the attached pdf file. 001 4 Butt.pdf This a sequence that repeats and works as follows: a) First plank has been positioned with the reference bulkhead b) The second plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the right of the first plank. c) The third plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the left of the first plank. d) The forth plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the right of the first plank. e) the firth plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the left of the first plank. f) Repeat the above sequence a) to e) When looking at both @James H and @DelF build logs it appeared that the first three planks were not tapered around the bow. I test this out and concluded I could follow suit without any issues. When looking at the kit supplied Lime planks there is quite a bit of colour variation between them. Therefore as I proceed to fit the planks I need to colour match the planks with the bulwark as far as it practical, noting this becomes less of an issue below the waterline as the hull will be painted white. Task 32 – Adding the first plank After selecting the first plank it is test fitted in the rabbet and a line is drawn so it follows the curve of the stem post. Following the information provided by @Chuck lateral bending method I set about working out the central point of the U-shaped bend. The plank brushed with water and clamped. A hairdryer was then used to apply heat. The first planking layer (right and left sides) was then glued to the hull. Task 33 – Adding the next two planks It was then a case of cutting planks to the required lengths for the 4-butt shift pattern and gluing them to the hull. Task 34 – Garboard Plank Noting that 24 planks / side would be required, and as 3 planks had already been fitted below the bulwark I thought it would make sense to add the garboard plank which would then leave 20 planks to fill the gap. This would make it easy to split this area into 4 planking bands, width 5 planks per band. I took my time to get the required shape around both the the stem and stern post. I also worked out the required plank start positions for the 4-butt shift pattern, based on pattern created by first three planks. Photos In the photo below I an checking if three full width planks can be fitted around the bow, not colour matched. In the next photo I am checking the colour match of first plank with the bulwark, it looks good. The next photo shows marking the plank for rabbet so it follows the curve of the stem post The next photo shows the central lateral bend point, which is where the widest gap is Lateral bending of the first plank (left and right) First plank has now been fitted, and the 4-butt joints can be seen Checking the second plank fits, also checking it is aligned with the required bulkhead line. Cutting planks method. This tool give a nice shape cut. I do give the cut edges a very light sand. Second planking layer completed, I am using acetone and water to clean the planks to remove excess glue. The 4-butt pattern can be seen. Third planking layer completed, so far so good. Garboard plank - stem post Garboard plank - Stern post

After a bit more experimentation with the cannon I have come up with the following. I drilled a small hole in the side panel for the breech line rigging ring. I then made an ring attachment hook and attached the kit supplied ring to it. The hook for the ring maybe needs to be a tad smaller. I have also added a smaller eyebolt for the outhaul rigging. I think this cannon looks much better now and I know what is required when I assembly the 6 off production cannons. I did add a coat of Iron Work Black paint to the cannon. The following pictures show my rejected attempts. I did not like the look of the outhaul tackle kit supplied eyebolt in the following photo, it looks way too big I did use a smaller eyebolt in the next photo and it does look Ok, but I just felt the overall thickness of the eyebolt material was no right. I tried a small eyebolt to hold the breech ring in the next photo, does not look right.

I have built one of the ships cannons. I did not encounter any problems when assembling the various parts. The most time consuming aspect was removing the laser char from the cannon side edges and wheels. I have not done a brilliant job of the removing the char from the ships wheels but I think they look reasonably OK. I did use a top end of a belaying pin to add a handle for the quoin. I think the handle looks OK. Should I paint the quoin black, thoughts anyone? I did try a method used by @DelF on his build whereby the cannon wheels were pushed on to a tooth pick which was then placed in a lathe. The char could then be sanded as the wheel was rotated. I did try this on a spare wheel but I ended up taking too much material of the wheel so I decided to abandon that method. The cannon was then place on the deck. I will probably add the breech line and I might also add the inhaul tackle. I have no plans at the moment to add the outhaul tackle however as I would need to modify the cannon to take a second eyebolt. When looking at the breech line rigging it passes through a ring located on the cannon side and are then seized to an eyebolt located on the bulwark, as can be seen below. I did a test fit of the kit supplied eyebolt. It does look large and clunky in my opinion. It also looks like the one required for the outhaul tackle. There is no provision for adding the breech ring. Referring to @DelF build log post he drilled some additional holes in the carriage for provision of the breech rings. I will follow his lead in this respect. The following photo is from DELF's post and shows his cannon. I have not, as yet, modified the cannon as per the previous photo in the following tests. Next I tried a smaller eyebolt (from by collection of unused kit parts from previous builds together with a kit supplied ring. This does look a bit better and is currently my preferred option. The eyebolt still looks a bit big so I will try to fashion a suitable ring holder. I did try a few different options as shown below. Another type of eyebolt with a larger ring. The ring definitely looks oversized. I also tried a smaller ring with a different eyebolt. This is a possible option, but the eyebolt is still a bit to large. I am planning to use 0.75mm natural thread for the breech line. so I thought I would test the two different rings with the breech line thread. Based on this test I will use the smaller ring. To allow for the right amount of cannon recoil the breech line should be 3 x barrel length. I will use this as a guide when I get ready to add the rigging. I would welcome any thoughts / comments on any of the above.

Build Log - Day 12 (14th Nov 2025) Task 27 – Stairs to Main Cabin The next major task will be to add the second planking. Before starting this time consuming task, I decided to have a few days doing some other tasks. I really like the curved stairs to the main cabin so thought it would be a nice easy build task. The parts were removed from the sheet and the laser char removed from the stair edges. As each rung was removed, I annotated their positions on the underside. With the two sides glued into the base the top and bottom rungs were fitted to ensure the sides correctly aligned. It was then a case of added the remaining rungs in turn. The completed assembly was then test fitted and it slotted in place perfectly. I then assembled the two ladders which are used to access the aft deck from the lower fore deck. Task 28 – Binnacle This was another easy build. The parts were removed from the sheets and the PE parts was glued in place. Next the bottom, middle and top shelves were fitted to the side patterns. The front and rear patterns were then glued in place, and clamped whilst the glue was curing. Task 29 – Catheads The two catheads were test fitted and I was pleased that these parts passed through the hole(s) in the hull. Task 30 – Rudder The outer patterns were glued to the rudder. The rudder was then test fitted. Photos Main cabin stairs parts are ready to be assembled A quick check that the base pattern fits in the slot in the lower deck. The two sides have glued to the base pattern and two rungs are being used to ensure the sides are correctly aligned. Adding the rungs, one at a time. The completed stair assembly. A final test fit, I really like this ladder. Test fit of the two fore to aft ladders Binnacle parts ready to be assembled Framework assembled Front and back panels glued in place and clamped. The completed binnacle, noting chimney and eyebolts will be added later. Catheads test fit, noting the bulkhead ears prevent checking installation from deck for the time being Rudder with outer patterns fitted and laser char removed. And a test fit of the rudder, looks good. I have also marked the hull in readiness for the second planking. I am planning to install the hull planks, using a 4 butt shift pattern. The hull has been split into 3 bands, with 8 planks per band required at the midships. I have ordered some proportional dividers which I will use to taper the planks from midship to bow.

Build Log - Day 12 (11th - 12th Nov 2025) Task 24 – Keel and Stem Post Pattern After confirming I was happy with the rabbet that is formed when the outer patterns for the keel and stem post were test fitted, they were glued then in place. Locating tabs are provided with the kit to ensure these patterns are correctly aligned. In the build manual the stem outer patterns were added after the bulwark outer patterns had been fitted. I thought it would be better to fit them prior to the fitting the bulwark patterns so I could utilise the rabbet to help hold the bulwark pattern in place. Task 26 – Stern Counters As detailed in my previous post I did prebend the lower stern counter pattern to follow the curve of the stern frames which was then glued in place without any problems. The upper stern counter pattern also required a slight bend so it would lie flat with the stern frames. A camphor was added to the bottom edge of this pattern for a better fit with the lower stern counter. Task 26 –Outer Bulwark Patterns As highlighted in my previous post I did use a cardboard template to determine if I needed to trim the actual bulwark patterns. Using the template as a guide I sanded the bow edge of these patterns and then did a test fit. I repeated this process a few times until I was happy with how the patterns were lining up with the hawse holes and cathead opening on the hull. The patterns were then soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and clamped in place on the hull. They were left for 24 hours to fully dry out. The bent bulwark outer patterns were then test fitted, using pins and the kit supplied gunport templates to check the alignment. Everything looked good. I drew a line along the bottom edge so I know where to add the glue. Glue was brushed on the hull and then working from the bow the patterns were inserted in the rabbet and then aligned with the two hawse holes and cathead opening. A clamp was used to hold the pattern in place and then pins were then inserted as then patterns were aligned with the gun port and window openings. Clamps were added to hold these patterns in place. Photos Lower and upper stern counter patterns have been fitted and sanded to shape Bulwarks soaked and clamped to hull Hawse and cathead openings look good Test fit using pins and gun port jigs. Bulwark patterns glued in place Post Gluing - Bow Alignment looks good Post Gluing - Gun port openings look good Post Gluing - window openings look good

Build Log - Day 12 (11th - 12th Nov 2025) Task 25 – Keel and Stem Post Pattern After confirming I was happy with the rabbet that is formed when the outer patterns for the keel and stem post were test fitted, they were glued then in place. Locating tabs are provided with the kit to ensure these patterns are correctly aligned. In the build manual the stem outer patterns were added after the bulwark outer patterns had been fitted. I thought it would be better to fit them prior to the fitting the bulwark patterns so I could utilise the rabbet to help hold the bulwark pattern in place. Task 26 – Stern Counters As detailed in my previous post I did prebend the lower stern counter pattern to follow the curve of the stern frames which was then glued in place without any problems. The upper stern counter pattern also required a slight bend so it would lie flat with the stern frames. A camphor was added to the bottom edge of this pattern for a better fit with the lower stern counter. Task 26 –Outer Bulwark Patterns As highlighted in my previous post I did use a cardboard template to determine if I needed to trim the actual bulwark patterns. Using the template as a guide I sanded the bow edge of these patterns and then did a test fit. I repeated this process a few times until I was happy with how the patterns were lining up with the hawse holes and cathead opening on the hull. The patterns were then soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and clamped in place on the hull. They were left for 24 hours to fully dry out. The bent bulwark outer patterns were then test fitted, using pins and the kit supplied gunport templates to check the alignment. Everything looked good. I drew a line along the bottom edge so I know where to add the glue. Glue was brushed on the hull and then working from the bow the patterns were inserted in the rabbet and then aligned with the two hawse holes and cathead opening. A clamp was used to hold the pattern in place and then pins were then inserted as then patterns were aligned with the gun port and window openings. Clamps were added to hold these patterns in place. Photos Lower and upper stern counter patterns have been fitted and sanded to shape Bulwarks soaked and clamped to hull Hawse and cathead openings look good Test fit using pins and gun port jigs. Bulwark patterns glued in place Post Gluing - Bow Alignment looks good Post Gluing - Gun port openings look good Post Gluing - window openings look good

Build Log - Day 11 (8th- - 10th Nov 2025) Task 19 – Sanding and Filling The hull was sanded smooth, tapering the plank depth in the the dead area toward the stern post. I then brushed some water on the hull which helped to highlight gaps and depressions. Wood filler was applied and then, when set, the hull was sanded smooth again. Water was brushed on the hull once again which did show there were still some depressions. I highlighted these areas with a pencil and then filled them with wood filler. Once dried the hull was given another sand. It looked and felt smooth. It also looked Ok when water was brushed on. Task 20 – Lower Stern Counter The lower stern counter needs to be bent to follow the curve of the stern frames. The pattern was soaked in hot water for 45 minutes and then strapped to bottle. The bottle had a very similar shape to the stern frame. And just like @DelF the pattern cracked along one of the lasers etched lines. As this pattern will be painted it should not be a problem. Task 21 – Stern Post The three outer patterns were glued to the stern post and once set the stern post was glued to the hull. Task 22 – Keel and Stem Post Pattern Test Fit The outer keel and stem post outer patterns were test fitted so the rabbet could be checked. Using a test plank, I was happy with the rabbet. Task 23 – Test Fit Outer Bulwark Patterns The outer bulwark patterns were test fitted. They looked good and aligned perfectly with the gun ports and window openings. As they had not been bent around the bow it was not possible to check the alignment with the catheads and hawse holes. With the patterns slotted in the rabbet it did appear they were not aligned. However, when I made a cardboard template using everything did align up perfectly. As the template is not as thick as the actual pattern it might mean a simple bevel will be required. Most testing required to make sure I can make the right adjustment to the actual patterns. In the build manual it does state that: “Some adjustment at the bow may be needed as we’ve left a little extra material to allow for variations. Photos The first photo shows pencil marks where there are some depressions. The stern area. The completed hull after the first planking had been sanded smooth. Bending the lower stern counter pattern, the crack along one of the laser etched lines can be seen. The stern post has been glued in place. The keel outer pattern have been test fitted. The outer patterns have been test fitted to the stem post. The outer bulwark patterns test fitting The bow section of the outer pattern does not seem to align. Using a template of the outer bulwark pattern.

Build Log - Day 10 (7th Nov 2025) Task 18 – First Planking Completed I have now completed the first planking. For the most part I am pleased with the result. The hull now be sanded and filled in readiness for the second planking. I will take great care to make sure the second planking above the water line is as neat as possible. I may try to follow the example shown in @DELF build log and go with fitting scale plank lengths. The planking below the waterline will be painted white so the planking will not be seen. Photos The completed hull.

Build Log - Day 9 (4th – 6th Nov 2025) Task 17 – First Planking Continues I have been making slow but steady progress with the first planking. I am pleased that I have now completed the planking to the transom area and I am pleased with the result. This area will need a little bit of sanding and filling. I have now started to plank upward from the keel and I have 6 planks to fit per side to complete the first planking. Before moving on I measured the unplanked distances to check the required tapering, which confirmed there were only 6 more planks per side required in the central section. The tapering requirements from bulkhead 4 to bulkhead 1 for the remaining planks was not greatly different to my original measurements which was pleasing. Photos The first two photos shows the planking up to the transom. I was pleased I was able to make the sharp bend. For the really sharp bends I used steam from a boiling kettle which proved to be very effective method. The next photo shows the bow, the planking is more or less even on both sides. When working on one of the lower planks I decided to add a stealer but I had a senior moment which you can see in the photo below. No idea what I was thinking. Thankfully normal service was resumed when I added the next plank, this time with a correct stealer added.

The Sherbourne is a great first model to build

This post details the method I am currently using to add each plank. Step 1 - I take two planks, one for the right-hand side and one for left hand side and I mark the position bulkheads 1 - 4. Using my digital calipers I then mark the require plank width at these bulkhead positions. Step 2 - I draw a line between the marked taper points, as can be seen below, and then using a craft knife the taper is cut. Step 3 - With the two planks held together I ensure there the tapers are the same. Step 4 - The two planks are then laterally bent. Water is brushed onto the planks which are then clamped. Hot air is used to dry the planks from a hairdryer. Both planks are bent at the same time. Step 5 - The laterally bent planks are then test fitted and can be adjusted if necessary. In the photo below the angle for the stem post is being checked. Step 6 - With the plank held in position I add an alignment mark, usually on bulkhead 6, which I use when I am ready to glue the plank in place as I tend to work from the center outward adding pins left and right alternatively. Step 7 - Next I find the point where the plank bends around the stern which also requires a slight twist. Step 8 - Next I work out where the sharp bend is required to fit toward the transom. Step 9 - With the plank brushed with water the required bend toward the transom is made. I do this by gentle manipulation with my hands and using the hair dryer. Step 10 - Glue is then added to all the bulkheads and to the edge of the last fitted plank. I also add a bit of glue to both the bow and stern end of the plank. The plank is then aligned with the mark and pinned in place. Step 11 - I continue to add the pins, alternating between left and right of the first pin. In the next photo the first three pins have been added. Step 12 - Once all the pins have been added I do check everything looks Ok. Step 13 - The two planks have now been added, one to each side.

Hello Enjoy yoyr build. The photos in your post are not displayed on either my phone or laptop.

Build Log - Day 8 (3rd Nov 2025) Task 15 – Starting First planking – Garboard Plank I decided to start the first planking by adding the garboard plank(s). The bow end was shaped to follow the curve around the stem post. A camphor was then added to the plank edge that butts up to the false keel up to bulkhead 10. A twist was then added to the plank from bulkhead 10 to allow it sit to sit flush with the false keel up to the stern. The planks were then glued and pinned in place. Task 16 – Adding the First Two Planks The planks were tapered from bulkhead 4 to the stem post, tapering from 5mm (BK4) to 4.8 (BK3) to 4.2 (BK2) to 3mm (BK1) to 2.5mm (at stem post) as per the data detailed in my last post. The planks were then laterally bent to improve the fit around the bow section. Once I was happy with how the planks looked they were glued and pinned in place. Photos The first three photos shows the garboard plank. The next five photos shows the hull after the first plank (on both sides) beneath the bulwarks had been fitted. The final four photos were taken after the second plank (on both sides) had been fitted. There are still 14 more planks per side to be fit, which will take me some time to complete.

Build Log - Day 7 (2nd Nov 2025) Task 13 – Checking Fit of Bulwark Patterns With the bulwark patterns still pinned in place I brush some water on them and then applied heat using a hairdryer. This will, hopefully, ensure that these patterns will retain the lateral curves once the pins and bulkhead ears have been removed. After the pins were removed from the bulwark patterns, I checked the contact with the top and bottom of the various bulkheads. The lower section bulkheads 4 to 6 on the left had side were slightly raised and sat proud when a plank was laid adject to them. I brushed some glue under the bulkheads and then repined, checking the bulwarks were fully against the bulkheads. I did use a quick blast of hot air from a hairdryer to quicken the curing process. I also repeated the above process for the lower bulwark right hand pattern section from bulkhead 2 to stem post. When these pins were removed I was happy that the bulwarks were sitting tight against all the bulkheads. Task 14 – Preparation Work Prior to starting first planking Using some cardboard strips the various distances between the bulwark and keel were measured for the first 10 bulkheads. There will be 17 planking layers required, and the planks will be tapered toward the bow with the taper starting from bulkhead 4. I will taper and / or add stealers toward the stern as I go along which is my normal working process for the stern section. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 51mm 71mm 81mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 80mm 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 3.0mm 4.2mm 4.8mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 4.7mm I then made a bow template plank (from spare planking material) which was tapered as per the above table. The tapered plank was a good fit around the bow section and could probably be glued in place without the need for the lateral (Chuck) bend. However I think the overall planking will look much better and should require less sanding / filling when complete if the planks are bent laterally. With a test plank in place the central point for the lateral bend is located, which was midway between bulkheads 2 and 3. A lateral bend was then added to the plank. I then had the idea to check the bend using the curve from the bulwark sheet cutout as an added guide and was pleased that my laterally bent plank was a good match. The laterally bent plank fitting is now so much easier. I will need to experiment with making the tight (almost 90 degree) bend for the planks which terminate with the transom before starting the planking in earnest. Photos Tapered test plank test fit, without a lateral bend, it is a good fit. Checking how the planks fit against the bulwark midships. With the tapered test plank in position the central point for the lateral bend is found. The test plan is clamped ready for the wetting and application of hot air from a hairdryer. Testing the laterally bent plank with the bulwark sheet curve, looks good.

Thanks Ronald. I think the key me, for a good fit, was to spend time making the bending template and then gluing the pattern in place in sections.

Build Log - Day 6 (31st Oct 2025) Task 12 – Fitting The Bulwarks – Part 2 Following on from my last post, where the bulwark patterns had been soaked and then clamped to the wooden bending template. When I removed the bulwark patterns from the template after 18 hours, I was really pleased that they were a perfect fit around the bow area. Note to self this is a really good method for ensuring the bulwarks have the correct bend. I might also be able to use the template when bending planks around the bow. I decided there would be enough flexibility in the bulwark patterns to cater the lateral keel to gunwale bow bend. I applied plenty of glue to the bulkheads below deck level and used spots of glue on the bulwark ears above the deck item as these ears will be removed later in the build process. In practical terms I started by gluing and pinning the right-hand bulwark pattern in place from stem post to bulkhead 2. After I had given time for the glue to grip, I then proceeded to work in sections gluing and pinning the bulwark pattern in place moving steadily toward the stern, doing my best to ensure the pattern was aligned with the top edges of the bulkheads. I am really pleased with the result and I will now repeat the process for gluing and pinning the left hand bulwark pattern to the hull. Photos Right Hand Bulwark Pattern Glued in Placed The bulwark pattern follows the curved line of the deck around the bow. The underside seems to be flush with the bulkheads with no kinks A test plank seems to sit flush with the bulwark Midships

Build Log - Day 4 & 5 (29th & 30th Oct 2025) Task 9 – Faring the hull The hull was faired. I worked from stern to bow. I used a mixture of sanding sticks and sandpaper for this process. I did use my rotary tool when removing the excess material from the stern quarter sections. As the fairing progressed, I did use planking strips to check how they laid against the various bulkhead. Task 10 – Fitting the Stem Post The stem post was tested fitted and I was very happy how it looked. Looking further ahead the figurehead has to slide into the top section of the stem post. The figurehead, when test fitted, would not fit. I removed the laser char from the figurehead slot in the stem post, and I sanded a tiny bit from the bottom edge of the figurehead. Once that was done, the figurehead did slide into position. Next I did a quick check that the bulwark patterns would slot in the stem post. Now that I was happy with the stem post fit and that of the figurehead and bulwarks it was glued in place. Task 11 – Fitting The Bulwarks – Part 1 The bulwark patterns were soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then clamped to a bowl. The clamps were then removed from the patterns after they had been left to fully dry out for 18 hours. However, when the patterns were test fitted, I was not happy how they looked. They were soaked in hot water again and then clamped to a different bowl. Once again I was not happy with the fit around the bow when they were test fitted. I then remembered something in a build log (I can’t remember which one, sorry) that a template was made for this task. I decided this was a great idea and I have proceeded down the same line. Once the template had been made the planks were soaked in hot water and clamped in place. Figured crossed for a better result after then bulwarks have been given time to dry out. There is also a difficulty as the bulwarks really need to be bent in two dimensions around the bow to sit with the top edges of the bulkheads especially from bulkhead 2 to 4. Photos Faired stern section Test fit of the stem post Test fit of the figurehead Test fit of the bulwark patterns Stem posted glued and clamped First bending of the bulwarks First test fit - it does not look good Adding a sharper bend Making a bending template, using the deck sheet as a guide. The completed template Check of a bulwark pattern prior to being soaked and clamped to the template.

When looking at the prototype build log and some others there is clear evidence of fractured planks around the transom for the tight curve. I do like using half length planks when there is a double width middle bulkhead. This is not the case with this kit. I could add some addition material to widen the middle bulkhead but at moment I will probably use single length planks for the 1st planking. I can revert to shorter planks, as per DELF build log, for the second planking but I will decide on that when I am ready to add the 2nd planking.

Build Log - Day 3 (28th Oct 2025) Task 5 – Stern Patterns The inner, middle and outer stern pattern were pushed into place and then diluted pva glue was brushed into all the joints. Task 6 – Deck Supports and Cabin Deck The rear and mid cabin deck supports were glued in place. With pva glue brushed to the tops of the frame the cabin deck was added. Clamps were used on the outer edges to ensure the deck was in full contact with the frame. The two bulkhead thickening patterns when then glued in place. Task 7 – Fore Deck Installation I removed the laser char from all the edges and openings on the fore deck. With the deck flexed it was carefully placed over the bulkhead ears and clicked nicely into place. This was not an easy task and unfortunately I did manage to break off both ears on bulkhead 3 when flexing the deck over the bulkheads. I decided to glue the two broken off bulkhead ears to the temporary cross beam and I was able to then glue the ears back in place. I will have to be extra careful when fairing the hull in that area. Task 6 – Stern Patterns There are two stern filler patterns per side. With the patterns in place, I marked the pre fair lines. After the chamfering the patterns (using a sanding stick) they were glued in place. Task 8 – Aft Deck Installation I applied pva glue to the top of the frames and then flexed the aft deck over the bulkheads and I was relieved that it clicked into place. I then pinned the four corners, where there were no locating bulkhead slots, to ensure the aft deck was fully seated on the framework. Task 9 – Miscellaneous Patterns The following patterns were all glued in place without any issue: a) Temporary cross beams b) Stern quarter filling c) Outer bow patterns d) Stern filler patterns The hull is now ready to be faired, once all the glue has been given time to fully cure. Photos The first photo shows the stern inner, middle and outer pattern in place. The next two photos show the rear deck and mid cabin deck support patterns. The next two photos show the cabin deck in situ with clamps. The next photo shows the bulkhead thickening parts, clamps were used whilst the glue had time to grip. In the next photo the dummy fore and main masts have been added to check there are no issues with locating them in the support brackets beneath the deck. The next two photos shows the broken bulkhead ears repair process. The next two photos show the stern filler pattern pre and post fairing. The next two photos shows the installation of the aft deck complete with a dummy mizzen mast in place. The final three photos show the bow, stern quarter and stern filler patterns in place. I have started to fair the stern section.

Hi Chris This has to be one of my favourite models in the Vanguard model range. My daughter-in-law just lives my completed model I am more than happy to go again. I will do my best to go slow and steady and to avoid making to many mistakes on the way. That said I have just had I mishap which should not be an issue. Details will probably be provided in my next post

Build Log - Day 2 (27th Oct 2025) Task 4 – Pre-fairing of bulkheads & support patterns I made a cardboard template of the main deck which was placed over the frame which gave me a good indication of the camphor required for bulkheads 1-3. I also referred to the photos in DELF and Jim’s build log. After making pencil guidelines I proceeded to add camphor’s to the bulkheads 1-3, 11-13 and support patterns. Task 5 – Foremast support patterns The two foremast support patterns were glued to the bow support patterns. With the bow support patterns dry fitted I did check that a dummy foremast would locate. I also checked that a dummy mizzen mast would also locate through the upper deck & lower decks. Task 6 – Gluing patterns With all the bulkheads, longitudinal patterns and bow patterns added to the false keel, taking care that the pre faired bulkheads were all facing the right way, some diluted PCV glue was brushed into all the joints. The hull assembly will now be left for several hours to allow time for the glue to fully cure before I will move onto the next task. Photos The photo below shows the cardboard template in place and the yellow arrows indicate the fairing points. The next photo shows the bulkheads and patterns mark up ready for the pre-fairing And now after the pre-fairing. The next photo shows the two bow patterns with the foremast support patterns in situ after gluing. The final photo of this post shows the trial fit of a dummy mizzen mast with the upper and lower decks. The upper deck was aligned with the bulkhead ears but it was not engaged with the locating slots.

Build Log - Day 1 (24th Oct 2025) Task 1 – Temporary Cradle The 4 MDF parts that comprise the temporary cradle were removed from the 3mm MDF sheet, using my trusty craft knife. I did find it beneficial to cut the tabs on both sides of the MDF sheet when removing these parts. Although not strictly necessary for this task I did clean up the tabs, once the parts had been released using a sanding stick, as it is good habit to have for this hobby. The four parts slotted together perfectly with a nice click when they were fully located. It was not necessary to glue these parts in place as the cradle was very solid once assembled. Task 2 – False Keel Main Mast Support There is a support piece for the main mast to be fitted to the false keel. I referred to the photo in the build manual associated with the build instructions 7 & 8 together with plan sheet 4 to ensure that main mast support was correctly positioned. With the main mast support in place, I applied a diluted PCV solution to the joints. Finally, I used a small piece of 8mm dowel to check it would fully locate and was very pleased it was a perfect fit. There is also two fore mast supports to be glued to the bow support patterns. Task 3 – Removal of Bulkheads I removed all the bulkheads and all the other parts from the 3mm MDF sheets. The build instructions then recommends to pre fairing some of these bulkheads (1 - 3 and 11 - 13). Before proceeding with this task I did a trial test assembly of the bulkheads with the false keel, along with the inner and outer longitudinal patterns. The main cabin deck was also test fitted along with the bow support and stern patterns (inner, middle and outer). As expected, everything was a perfect fit and I am now ready to move on to the pre fairing of the bulkheads. Photos Dry fitted hull Main Cabin Deck Test Fit Stern inner, middle and outer patterns Test fit of the bulkhead support spacers Unfitted MDF parts

This will be my last post for the foreseeable future as the Duchess of Kingston kit is currently out for delivery. My daughter-in-law as always admired the first Duchess of Kingston model I built and was very pleased when I offered to build a new one for her. I have started a build log for the new build, just click on the hyperlink above to view (and follow). The first photo shows the current build status. It is a good place to stop this project as the next phase will be rigging. The next photo show the deck items, the armaments have now been fixed in place. The next photo shows the small cutter in situ. In the end I opted to fit 6 carronades, 3 per side, 2 at stern and 1 at the bow. The photo show the stern carronades in place, with the external base fitted beneath the gun port. The final two photos show the fore and main mast. I ran out of the Syren belaying pins.

This is the build log for the Vanguard Model Duchess of Kingston. My daughter-in-law as always admired the first Duchess of Kingston model I built and was very pleased when I offered to make one for her. I will be referring to the various build logs for this models, and in particular James and Delf excellent build logs, plus my original build log. A brief history of the Royal Yacht In the late 18th century, the Royal Yacht was a symbol of wealth and power for the British monarchy. In 1778, a new Royal Yacht was commissioned for the Duchess of Kingston, a prominent figure in British high society. This yacht, also known as the HMY (Her Majesty’s Yacht) Royal Caroline, was a luxurious vessel that reflected the opulence and extravagance of the time. The Duchess of Kingston, Elizabeth Chudleigh, was a controversial figure in British society. She was known for her lavish parties and extravagant lifestyle, and her relationship with King George III’s younger brother, the Duke of Cumberland, caused quite a scandal. As a result, the King himself commissioned the construction of a new Royal Yacht for the Duchess, perhaps as a way to appease her and maintain her loyalty to the monarchy. The 1778 Duchess of Kingston Royal Yacht was designed by renowned shipbuilder John Williams and was built at the Woolwich Dockyard. It was a stunning vessel, measuring 106 feet in length and capable of reaching speeds of up to 10 knots. The yacht had three masts and was adorned with intricate carvings and decorations, including the Duchess’s coat of arms. The interior of the yacht was even more lavish than its exterior. It boasted six cabins, including a grand state room for the Duchess herself. The state room was decorated with silk draperies, gold trimmings, and luxurious furnishings, making it fit for a royal. The other cabins were equally luxurious, with silk-lined walls and plush furnishings. The Duchess of Kingston’s Royal Yacht was not just a means of transportation, but also a place for entertainment and leisure. It had a spacious dining room where the Duchess could host her famous parties and entertain her guests. The yacht also had a music room and a library, showcasing the Duchess’s love for the arts and literature. The yacht was also equipped with the latest technology of the time. It had a state-of-the-art kitchen, a wine cellar, and even a private bathroom for the Duchess, a luxury that was unheard of on most ships at the time. The Duchess also had a personal staff of 26 people to cater to her every need during her voyages. The 1778 Duchess of Kingston Royal Yacht was not just a symbol of luxury and extravagance, but it also served a practical purpose. The Duchess used the yacht to travel to the continent, often to attend grand events and visit her properties. It also served as a means for the Duchess to maintain her status and influence in British society. Unfortunately, the Duchess’s reign as the owner of the Royal Yacht was short-lived. In 1786, she was accused of bigamy and had to flee the country to avoid prosecution. The yacht was seized by the government and eventually sold off. However, its legacy lived on, and it is still remembered as one of the most opulent and extravagant Royal Yachts of its time, a true representation of the lavish lifestyle of the British aristocracy.