Glenn-UK

Build Log - Day 9 (4th – 6th Nov 2025) Task 17 – First Planking Continues I have been making slow but steady progress with the first planking. I am pleased that I have now completed the planking to the transom area and I am pleased with the result. This area will need a little bit of sanding and filling. I have now started to plank upward from the keel and I have 6 planks to fit per side to complete the first planking. Before moving on I measured the unplanked distances to check the required tapering, which confirmed there were only 6 more planks per side required in the central section. The tapering requirements from bulkhead 4 to bulkhead 1 for the remaining planks was not greatly different to my original measurements which was pleasing. Photos The first two photos shows the planking up to the transom. I was pleased I was able to make the sharp bend. For the really sharp bends I used steam from a boiling kettle which proved to be very effective method. The next photo shows the bow, the planking is more or less even on both sides. When working on one of the lower planks I decided to add a stealer but I had a senior moment which you can see in the photo below. No idea what I was thinking. Thankfully normal service was resumed when I added the next plank, this time with a correct stealer added.

The Sherbourne is a great first model to build

This post details the method I am currently using to add each plank. Step 1 - I take two planks, one for the right-hand side and one for left hand side and I mark the position bulkheads 1 - 4. Using my digital calipers I then mark the require plank width at these bulkhead positions. Step 2 - I draw a line between the marked taper points, as can be seen below, and then using a craft knife the taper is cut. Step 3 - With the two planks held together I ensure there the tapers are the same. Step 4 - The two planks are then laterally bent. Water is brushed onto the planks which are then clamped. Hot air is used to dry the planks from a hairdryer. Both planks are bent at the same time. Step 5 - The laterally bent planks are then test fitted and can be adjusted if necessary. In the photo below the angle for the stem post is being checked. Step 6 - With the plank held in position I add an alignment mark, usually on bulkhead 6, which I use when I am ready to glue the plank in place as I tend to work from the center outward adding pins left and right alternatively. Step 7 - Next I find the point where the plank bends around the stern which also requires a slight twist. Step 8 - Next I work out where the sharp bend is required to fit toward the transom. Step 9 - With the plank brushed with water the required bend toward the transom is made. I do this by gentle manipulation with my hands and using the hair dryer. Step 10 - Glue is then added to all the bulkheads and to the edge of the last fitted plank. I also add a bit of glue to both the bow and stern end of the plank. The plank is then aligned with the mark and pinned in place. Step 11 - I continue to add the pins, alternating between left and right of the first pin. In the next photo the first three pins have been added. Step 12 - Once all the pins have been added I do check everything looks Ok. Step 13 - The two planks have now been added, one to each side.

Hello Enjoy yoyr build. The photos in your post are not displayed on either my phone or laptop.

Build Log - Day 8 (3rd Nov 2025) Task 15 – Starting First planking – Garboard Plank I decided to start the first planking by adding the garboard plank(s). The bow end was shaped to follow the curve around the stem post. A camphor was then added to the plank edge that butts up to the false keel up to bulkhead 10. A twist was then added to the plank from bulkhead 10 to allow it sit to sit flush with the false keel up to the stern. The planks were then glued and pinned in place. Task 16 – Adding the First Two Planks The planks were tapered from bulkhead 4 to the stem post, tapering from 5mm (BK4) to 4.8 (BK3) to 4.2 (BK2) to 3mm (BK1) to 2.5mm (at stem post) as per the data detailed in my last post. The planks were then laterally bent to improve the fit around the bow section. Once I was happy with how the planks looked they were glued and pinned in place. Photos The first three photos shows the garboard plank. The next five photos shows the hull after the first plank (on both sides) beneath the bulwarks had been fitted. The final four photos were taken after the second plank (on both sides) had been fitted. There are still 14 more planks per side to be fit, which will take me some time to complete.

Build Log - Day 7 (2nd Nov 2025) Task 13 – Checking Fit of Bulwark Patterns With the bulwark patterns still pinned in place I brush some water on them and then applied heat using a hairdryer. This will, hopefully, ensure that these patterns will retain the lateral curves once the pins and bulkhead ears have been removed. After the pins were removed from the bulwark patterns, I checked the contact with the top and bottom of the various bulkheads. The lower section bulkheads 4 to 6 on the left had side were slightly raised and sat proud when a plank was laid adject to them. I brushed some glue under the bulkheads and then repined, checking the bulwarks were fully against the bulkheads. I did use a quick blast of hot air from a hairdryer to quicken the curing process. I also repeated the above process for the lower bulwark right hand pattern section from bulkhead 2 to stem post. When these pins were removed I was happy that the bulwarks were sitting tight against all the bulkheads. Task 14 – Preparation Work Prior to starting first planking Using some cardboard strips the various distances between the bulwark and keel were measured for the first 10 bulkheads. There will be 17 planking layers required, and the planks will be tapered toward the bow with the taper starting from bulkhead 4. I will taper and / or add stealers toward the stern as I go along which is my normal working process for the stern section. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 51mm 71mm 81mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 85mm 80mm 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 17 3.0mm 4.2mm 4.8mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 5.0mm 4.7mm I then made a bow template plank (from spare planking material) which was tapered as per the above table. The tapered plank was a good fit around the bow section and could probably be glued in place without the need for the lateral (Chuck) bend. However I think the overall planking will look much better and should require less sanding / filling when complete if the planks are bent laterally. With a test plank in place the central point for the lateral bend is located, which was midway between bulkheads 2 and 3. A lateral bend was then added to the plank. I then had the idea to check the bend using the curve from the bulwark sheet cutout as an added guide and was pleased that my laterally bent plank was a good match. The laterally bent plank fitting is now so much easier. I will need to experiment with making the tight (almost 90 degree) bend for the planks which terminate with the transom before starting the planking in earnest. Photos Tapered test plank test fit, without a lateral bend, it is a good fit. Checking how the planks fit against the bulwark midships. With the tapered test plank in position the central point for the lateral bend is found. The test plan is clamped ready for the wetting and application of hot air from a hairdryer. Testing the laterally bent plank with the bulwark sheet curve, looks good.

Thanks Ronald. I think the key me, for a good fit, was to spend time making the bending template and then gluing the pattern in place in sections.

Build Log - Day 6 (31st Oct 2025) Task 12 – Fitting The Bulwarks – Part 2 Following on from my last post, where the bulwark patterns had been soaked and then clamped to the wooden bending template. When I removed the bulwark patterns from the template after 18 hours, I was really pleased that they were a perfect fit around the bow area. Note to self this is a really good method for ensuring the bulwarks have the correct bend. I might also be able to use the template when bending planks around the bow. I decided there would be enough flexibility in the bulwark patterns to cater the lateral keel to gunwale bow bend. I applied plenty of glue to the bulkheads below deck level and used spots of glue on the bulwark ears above the deck item as these ears will be removed later in the build process. In practical terms I started by gluing and pinning the right-hand bulwark pattern in place from stem post to bulkhead 2. After I had given time for the glue to grip, I then proceeded to work in sections gluing and pinning the bulwark pattern in place moving steadily toward the stern, doing my best to ensure the pattern was aligned with the top edges of the bulkheads. I am really pleased with the result and I will now repeat the process for gluing and pinning the left hand bulwark pattern to the hull. Photos Right Hand Bulwark Pattern Glued in Placed The bulwark pattern follows the curved line of the deck around the bow. The underside seems to be flush with the bulkheads with no kinks A test plank seems to sit flush with the bulwark Midships

Build Log - Day 4 & 5 (29th & 30th Oct 2025) Task 9 – Faring the hull The hull was faired. I worked from stern to bow. I used a mixture of sanding sticks and sandpaper for this process. I did use my rotary tool when removing the excess material from the stern quarter sections. As the fairing progressed, I did use planking strips to check how they laid against the various bulkhead. Task 10 – Fitting the Stem Post The stem post was tested fitted and I was very happy how it looked. Looking further ahead the figurehead has to slide into the top section of the stem post. The figurehead, when test fitted, would not fit. I removed the laser char from the figurehead slot in the stem post, and I sanded a tiny bit from the bottom edge of the figurehead. Once that was done, the figurehead did slide into position. Next I did a quick check that the bulwark patterns would slot in the stem post. Now that I was happy with the stem post fit and that of the figurehead and bulwarks it was glued in place. Task 11 – Fitting The Bulwarks – Part 1 The bulwark patterns were soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then clamped to a bowl. The clamps were then removed from the patterns after they had been left to fully dry out for 18 hours. However, when the patterns were test fitted, I was not happy how they looked. They were soaked in hot water again and then clamped to a different bowl. Once again I was not happy with the fit around the bow when they were test fitted. I then remembered something in a build log (I can’t remember which one, sorry) that a template was made for this task. I decided this was a great idea and I have proceeded down the same line. Once the template had been made the planks were soaked in hot water and clamped in place. Figured crossed for a better result after then bulwarks have been given time to dry out. There is also a difficulty as the bulwarks really need to be bent in two dimensions around the bow to sit with the top edges of the bulkheads especially from bulkhead 2 to 4. Photos Faired stern section Test fit of the stem post Test fit of the figurehead Test fit of the bulwark patterns Stem posted glued and clamped First bending of the bulwarks First test fit - it does not look good Adding a sharper bend Making a bending template, using the deck sheet as a guide. The completed template Check of a bulwark pattern prior to being soaked and clamped to the template.

When looking at the prototype build log and some others there is clear evidence of fractured planks around the transom for the tight curve. I do like using half length planks when there is a double width middle bulkhead. This is not the case with this kit. I could add some addition material to widen the middle bulkhead but at moment I will probably use single length planks for the 1st planking. I can revert to shorter planks, as per DELF build log, for the second planking but I will decide on that when I am ready to add the 2nd planking.

Build Log - Day 3 (28th Oct 2025) Task 5 – Stern Patterns The inner, middle and outer stern pattern were pushed into place and then diluted pva glue was brushed into all the joints. Task 6 – Deck Supports and Cabin Deck The rear and mid cabin deck supports were glued in place. With pva glue brushed to the tops of the frame the cabin deck was added. Clamps were used on the outer edges to ensure the deck was in full contact with the frame. The two bulkhead thickening patterns when then glued in place. Task 7 – Fore Deck Installation I removed the laser char from all the edges and openings on the fore deck. With the deck flexed it was carefully placed over the bulkhead ears and clicked nicely into place. This was not an easy task and unfortunately I did manage to break off both ears on bulkhead 3 when flexing the deck over the bulkheads. I decided to glue the two broken off bulkhead ears to the temporary cross beam and I was able to then glue the ears back in place. I will have to be extra careful when fairing the hull in that area. Task 6 – Stern Patterns There are two stern filler patterns per side. With the patterns in place, I marked the pre fair lines. After the chamfering the patterns (using a sanding stick) they were glued in place. Task 8 – Aft Deck Installation I applied pva glue to the top of the frames and then flexed the aft deck over the bulkheads and I was relieved that it clicked into place. I then pinned the four corners, where there were no locating bulkhead slots, to ensure the aft deck was fully seated on the framework. Task 9 – Miscellaneous Patterns The following patterns were all glued in place without any issue: a) Temporary cross beams b) Stern quarter filling c) Outer bow patterns d) Stern filler patterns The hull is now ready to be faired, once all the glue has been given time to fully cure. Photos The first photo shows the stern inner, middle and outer pattern in place. The next two photos show the rear deck and mid cabin deck support patterns. The next two photos show the cabin deck in situ with clamps. The next photo shows the bulkhead thickening parts, clamps were used whilst the glue had time to grip. In the next photo the dummy fore and main masts have been added to check there are no issues with locating them in the support brackets beneath the deck. The next two photos shows the broken bulkhead ears repair process. The next two photos show the stern filler pattern pre and post fairing. The next two photos shows the installation of the aft deck complete with a dummy mizzen mast in place. The final three photos show the bow, stern quarter and stern filler patterns in place. I have started to fair the stern section.

Hi Chris This has to be one of my favourite models in the Vanguard model range. My daughter-in-law just lives my completed model I am more than happy to go again. I will do my best to go slow and steady and to avoid making to many mistakes on the way. That said I have just had I mishap which should not be an issue. Details will probably be provided in my next post

Build Log - Day 2 (27th Oct 2025) Task 4 – Pre-fairing of bulkheads & support patterns I made a cardboard template of the main deck which was placed over the frame which gave me a good indication of the camphor required for bulkheads 1-3. I also referred to the photos in DELF and Jim’s build log. After making pencil guidelines I proceeded to add camphor’s to the bulkheads 1-3, 11-13 and support patterns. Task 5 – Foremast support patterns The two foremast support patterns were glued to the bow support patterns. With the bow support patterns dry fitted I did check that a dummy foremast would locate. I also checked that a dummy mizzen mast would also locate through the upper deck & lower decks. Task 6 – Gluing patterns With all the bulkheads, longitudinal patterns and bow patterns added to the false keel, taking care that the pre faired bulkheads were all facing the right way, some diluted PCV glue was brushed into all the joints. The hull assembly will now be left for several hours to allow time for the glue to fully cure before I will move onto the next task. Photos The photo below shows the cardboard template in place and the yellow arrows indicate the fairing points. The next photo shows the bulkheads and patterns mark up ready for the pre-fairing And now after the pre-fairing. The next photo shows the two bow patterns with the foremast support patterns in situ after gluing. The final photo of this post shows the trial fit of a dummy mizzen mast with the upper and lower decks. The upper deck was aligned with the bulkhead ears but it was not engaged with the locating slots.

Build Log - Day 1 (24th Oct 2025) Task 1 – Temporary Cradle The 4 MDF parts that comprise the temporary cradle were removed from the 3mm MDF sheet, using my trusty craft knife. I did find it beneficial to cut the tabs on both sides of the MDF sheet when removing these parts. Although not strictly necessary for this task I did clean up the tabs, once the parts had been released using a sanding stick, as it is good habit to have for this hobby. The four parts slotted together perfectly with a nice click when they were fully located. It was not necessary to glue these parts in place as the cradle was very solid once assembled. Task 2 – False Keel Main Mast Support There is a support piece for the main mast to be fitted to the false keel. I referred to the photo in the build manual associated with the build instructions 7 & 8 together with plan sheet 4 to ensure that main mast support was correctly positioned. With the main mast support in place, I applied a diluted PCV solution to the joints. Finally, I used a small piece of 8mm dowel to check it would fully locate and was very pleased it was a perfect fit. There is also two fore mast supports to be glued to the bow support patterns. Task 3 – Removal of Bulkheads I removed all the bulkheads and all the other parts from the 3mm MDF sheets. The build instructions then recommends to pre fairing some of these bulkheads (1 - 3 and 11 - 13). Before proceeding with this task I did a trial test assembly of the bulkheads with the false keel, along with the inner and outer longitudinal patterns. The main cabin deck was also test fitted along with the bow support and stern patterns (inner, middle and outer). As expected, everything was a perfect fit and I am now ready to move on to the pre fairing of the bulkheads. Photos Dry fitted hull Main Cabin Deck Test Fit Stern inner, middle and outer patterns Test fit of the bulkhead support spacers Unfitted MDF parts

This will be my last post for the foreseeable future as the Duchess of Kingston kit is currently out for delivery. My daughter-in-law as always admired the first Duchess of Kingston model I built and was very pleased when I offered to build a new one for her. I have started a build log for the new build, just click on the hyperlink above to view (and follow). The first photo shows the current build status. It is a good place to stop this project as the next phase will be rigging. The next photo show the deck items, the armaments have now been fixed in place. The next photo shows the small cutter in situ. In the end I opted to fit 6 carronades, 3 per side, 2 at stern and 1 at the bow. The photo show the stern carronades in place, with the external base fitted beneath the gun port. The final two photos show the fore and main mast. I ran out of the Syren belaying pins.

This is the build log for the Vanguard Model Duchess of Kingston. My daughter-in-law as always admired the first Duchess of Kingston model I built and was very pleased when I offered to make one for her. I will be referring to the various build logs for this models, and in particular James and Delf excellent build logs, plus my original build log. A brief history of the Royal Yacht In the late 18th century, the Royal Yacht was a symbol of wealth and power for the British monarchy. In 1778, a new Royal Yacht was commissioned for the Duchess of Kingston, a prominent figure in British high society. This yacht, also known as the HMY (Her Majesty’s Yacht) Royal Caroline, was a luxurious vessel that reflected the opulence and extravagance of the time. The Duchess of Kingston, Elizabeth Chudleigh, was a controversial figure in British society. She was known for her lavish parties and extravagant lifestyle, and her relationship with King George III’s younger brother, the Duke of Cumberland, caused quite a scandal. As a result, the King himself commissioned the construction of a new Royal Yacht for the Duchess, perhaps as a way to appease her and maintain her loyalty to the monarchy. The 1778 Duchess of Kingston Royal Yacht was designed by renowned shipbuilder John Williams and was built at the Woolwich Dockyard. It was a stunning vessel, measuring 106 feet in length and capable of reaching speeds of up to 10 knots. The yacht had three masts and was adorned with intricate carvings and decorations, including the Duchess’s coat of arms. The interior of the yacht was even more lavish than its exterior. It boasted six cabins, including a grand state room for the Duchess herself. The state room was decorated with silk draperies, gold trimmings, and luxurious furnishings, making it fit for a royal. The other cabins were equally luxurious, with silk-lined walls and plush furnishings. The Duchess of Kingston’s Royal Yacht was not just a means of transportation, but also a place for entertainment and leisure. It had a spacious dining room where the Duchess could host her famous parties and entertain her guests. The yacht also had a music room and a library, showcasing the Duchess’s love for the arts and literature. The yacht was also equipped with the latest technology of the time. It had a state-of-the-art kitchen, a wine cellar, and even a private bathroom for the Duchess, a luxury that was unheard of on most ships at the time. The Duchess also had a personal staff of 26 people to cater to her every need during her voyages. The 1778 Duchess of Kingston Royal Yacht was not just a symbol of luxury and extravagance, but it also served a practical purpose. The Duchess used the yacht to travel to the continent, often to attend grand events and visit her properties. It also served as a means for the Duchess to maintain her status and influence in British society. Unfortunately, the Duchess’s reign as the owner of the Royal Yacht was short-lived. In 1786, she was accused of bigamy and had to flee the country to avoid prosecution. The yacht was seized by the government and eventually sold off. However, its legacy lived on, and it is still remembered as one of the most opulent and extravagant Royal Yachts of its time, a true representation of the lavish lifestyle of the British aristocracy.

Thanks John

It is a beautiful model. My daughter-in-law has always admired the one I built a while ago so I am now going to build one for her.

That would be my intention however this build is now on the back burner as I have a new commission build which I am eager to start. I am happy that the Grecian sad it stands will be ready for mast/yard/rigging if or when I have time to return to the build.

I will not be doing much more on this build for the foreseeable future as I will undertaking a commission build (for my daughter-in law) of Duchess of Kingston, when the kit I have ordered arrives from Vanguard Models. I will start a build log for the new build once the kit has arrived. The following is an update on my Grecian progress. Copper plating has been completed. I have not made a great job of it, especially around the bow. With the copper plating completed I then added the previously built deck items. I really like the look of the Syren belaying pins but I am concerned they may break when securing rigging to them as I have already broken a few. The companionway, binnacle and ships wheel rigging have been added. The cannons and carronades have only be placed on the deck in the following photos as I still deciding on the armament arrangement for my build. At the moment will probably go with the arrangement shown in the ensuring photos. My next task will be to add the cannon balls to the racks and to add the deadeyes / strops & chainplates to the channels. I will also add the hawse rope and anchors before moving on to the DOK build. I also plan to make the main and fore masts (if time permits), as I have already made the crosstrees for them. Plus I have also built the bowsprit, jibboom and flying jibboom.

Whilst I wait for the copper plates to arrive I have moved on to the masts and bowsprit. The first task was to assemble the two cross trees, as shown below. Next I started work on the bowsprit. After cutting the dowel to length it was a case of making sure it fits. After the end cap and bees were added I then used my mini lathe to taper jibboom and flying jibboom. I also made a notch on the top of the jibboom ready for the lashing. All looks goods when they were test fitted. Two pairs of cleats were then added to the bowsprit. In the photo below the locating pin for the jibboom can also be seen. Finally the end sections of the bowsprit and jibboom were painted black. I will cover the detail with regards to adding the various rigging items (deadeye and thimbles) in a future post. The dolphin striker also will be added.

The hawse pattern, complete with bolster has now been painted and fitted. I am trying out some different belaying pins which are the same size of the PE belaying pins supplied with the kit, see photo below. They also fit in the locating holes provided on the kit supplied belay pin racks without any modification. The real test will come when rigging lines are belayed to these pins to see if they are strong enough. If not I can revert back to the kit supplied pins. The belaying racks, 3 per side, have now been glued in place and I do really like the look of the belaying pins. The shot garland racks have also been glued in place, four per side, along with the cleats. Next the channels were painted and test fitted. I plan to glue these parts in place after the hull has been copper plated. Next it was time to start adding the various eyebolts required for the cannons and carronades. Finally, in preparation for starting the copper plating I have used a template to get the best fit for the stern post plates.

I have been working steadily on the Grecian build over the last few days but unfortunately I have not been taking many photo's. I have now completed the following tasks: a) The hull has been sanded smooth and painted. b) The wales have been added. c) The two rear cabins have been added. d) The outer stern counter pattern has been added e) The lower counter rails have been added f) The stern board (main and top) patterns have been added. I have gone against the build manual / prototype and opted to paint the inner bulwarks blue rather than green. I have also added a copper paint base below the water line. I will be fitting copper plates rather than using the kit supplied copper tape. The copper plates have been ordered and should arrive later this week. The following photo shows the current build statis Next is a picture of the rear cabins. I now wish I had not painted the outer surround of the cabin doors black but it is not a show stopper. I do like the red infill I added to the tiller housing front panel however. I have also test fitted the tiller housing canopy. The cleats have also been added to the inner bulwarks. Next is a picture of the stern. I am not totally happy with the joins between the various parts, but in the great scheme of the build this aspect will not really be visible when the model is completed. Also there is an outer pattern to add to the stern main board which will make thing look better, once fitted. Next is a photo showing the internal colour scheme. Finally I have tested fitted the channels and pin racks.

As I work towards completing the left hand side second planking I thought I would share how I go about adding a steeler. With the plank in place I make a mark where it starts to drift away from the next plank. This is shown in the photo below. I also aim to have a full plank width space at the stern post and you will note I have also made a pencil mark on the hull near the stern post. I then cut away the excess material from the plank. The objective is to have about a taper that goes from about half a planks width to a full planks with. I think the next photo will help to clarify that description. Next I make the steeler and check its fit before progressing further. Once I am happy with the fit I will then glue the steeler in place. Doing this ensures I have the right space set at the stern post for the plank when fitted. The plank is then glued in place and all looks good. You will note I did not do such a good job this time around as I found it necessary to add a small filler piece. I use a very simple method when laterally bending the bow planks. I dip the plank in some water and then clamp it to my workbench. A hairdryer is then used to blow hot air on the plank to remove the water and to retain the curve. Once the water has been removed by the hairdryer I am left with a nicely curved plank. The curve, if necessary. can be adjusted but with experience I have found I am now usually able to judge the required bend first time around. The left hand side second planking is now complete. The completed hull is now ready to be sanded (and filled) prior to painting and adding the copper plating.

Hello Craig https://fundraise.cancerresearchuk.org/page/glenns-giving-page-185 Thanks Glenn