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Glenn-UK

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Everything posted by Glenn-UK

  1. Glenn-UK
    The end is in sight as I only have to install the weaponry, anchors and make the perplex stand. I have not added the bowline rigging. I am still in two minds weather to add these or not. I might redo the spritsail yard braces as it is currently (unintentionally) set at a jaunty angle to bowsprit. The first task today was to hang one of the 18ft cutter from the rear of the ship. I opted to use a hook and eyelet to hold the cutter. Next the 22ft cutter was added to the deck. The cannons have been brought out of storage and are ready to be added. I am only planning to fit a set of anchors on this model. As can be seen in the photo below I have had a few issues with breakages. After much deliberation I placed an order for the The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian as I think this fits in better with the timeframe to complete and to then be ready for the release of the Surprise. The Grecian is not a boat that really appeals to me but I think it will be an interesting project to complete nonetheless I have taken a few photos of the current Harpy build status, as shown below. The white blotches on the background are paint stains as the backing used is an old decorating dust cover.
  2. Glenn-UK
    I am also very tempted by the Syren's 3D-printed blocks, especially the deadeyes. I might order as set of deadeyes for my next build.
  3. Glenn-UK
    Machined ones, much better than the standard kit ones.
  4. Glenn-UK
    Work is progressing nicely on adding the braces for all the various yards. I have run in the brace rigging for all yards on the left hand side. Once I have run in the right hand right hand side rigging the braces can be tensioned and belayed. In the following set of photos I have shown where all the rigging has been run. There is some fuzz on rigging lines which is not visible to the naked eye. As the end of this project nears I am thinking about which model to build next (as I wait in the wings for Jim to complete the prototype build for the Surprise). I am currently considering either the The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian or HMS Speedy. I have previously partly built HMS Speedy but had to ditch the project partway through the build. I would like to build the HM Brig Sloop Flirt - Master Shipwright Edition but as this kit is currently out of stock so that is not currently an option. Main Yard Braces Main topsail yard braces Main topgallant yard braces Fore Lower yard braces Fore Topsail braces Fore topgallant braces Spritsail yard braces
  5. Glenn-UK
    I have now completed the clews, tacks and sheet rigging. The following set of photos are related to the work related to the lower yards on the main and fore masts. My first attempt at seizing the double blocks failed when tension was applied. thankfully all was good second time around. Belaying the rigging was not to bad to do. I have already started work and rigging the braces, and once that is done the final rigging task will be the bowlines. I would expect to complete the model later his month. The final photo shows the current rigging status.
  6. Glenn-UK
    I have made a start on adding the clews, tacks and sheet rigging. The first task was to add pin to the end of a length of thread. The pin is a small length of thread which has been stiffened with ca glue. This is shown in the photo below. The pinned thread is to be passed through a loop. I created the loop in a second length of thread, as shown below. With the pined thread in place the loop is closed up and the excess thread trimmed, as shown in the next photo. In the real world the pin acts a quick release mechanism. The next set of photos shows the rigging in place, noting it has not be tensioned or belayed. The red arrows indicate the rigging, The pin release rigging between the topsail and main yard is attached to a single block, and the next photo shows the method I am using to create this. The red arrow shows the pinned thread which has been placed in a loop which will be drawn tight around the pinned thread. The final set of photos shows this rigging in place, and once again this rigging has not been tensioned or belayed.
  7. Glenn-UK
    All the yard lifts have been rigged and belayed fore both the fore and main mast assemblies. For the most part I was able to set the lift tension so each yard was set at 90 degrees with the mast when belayed. The main yard lifts is shown in the photo below. The next two photo's shows the current build status. The lift rigging is difficult to see as the natural thread is not really visible when set against the white background. Clews, tacks and sheet rigging will be my next task which will take a few days to complete.
  8. Glenn-UK
    I predict a riot when this kit is released
  9. Glenn-UK
    I have managed to sort out the issue with the damaged cleat and the vangs have now been belayed. The main and driver booms rigging can be seen in the next two photos. I have now started to rig the lifts for the fore yard fore topsail yard and fore topgallant yard. The next set of photos shows the fore yard lift rigging. The rigging will be belayed to pins on the inner bulwark pin rack which will be entertaining when setting the tension so the yard is set level. The next set of photos shows the fore topsail yard lifts. The rigging will be belayed to pins on the inner bulwark pin rack, next to the foreyard lift belaying pin. The arrow in the first photo shows a block which has separated from the seizing. The arrows in the third photo shows the lift rigging. The final photo shows the fore topgallant yard lift. The rigging will be belayed to cleats located on the back of the topsail shroud rigging.
  10. Glenn-UK
    Today I have been installing the driver boom. The first photo below shows the WIP when adding the parral beads. The next photo shows the inter-block rigging for the driver boom tye. The next section of the rigging has been added as shown on the next photo. I am using pliers to add tension to the vangs, whilst the rigging is belayed. The next photo shows a double block reeved. The inter-block rigging for the two vangs have been added, as shown below. I am having a problem belaying the vang rigging as the cleats are located very close to the side cabins making it very difficult to tie off. I have also hit a snag as can be seen in the photo below as one cleat has seared off. I am not sure what I am going to so at the moment. Grandkid duties tomorrow so I have a couple of days to consider my options.
  11. Glenn-UK
    Today the Main Boom was installed. The first task was to secure the boom to the main mast with parral beads. Next a length of thread was added to the end of the boom, as can be seen in the next photo. This thread was then reeved through a block secured to the back of the main mast, as shown below. The end of the boom was then belayed using a double block arrangement, as shown below. Finally the thread that had been reeved through the main mast block was belayed to the deck via a double block arrangement, as shown below. Finally a photo of the completed installation. Next up will be the installation of the driver boom. Once that is done I will move on to rigging all the yard lifts, clews, sheets and tacks. Once they have been rigged the final task will be to rig all the yard braces and bowlines.
  12. Glenn-UK
    The main and foremast topsail and top gallant yards have now been added complete with tyes and lifts rigged. Here is a picture of the current state of the build. Now a picture showing the fore topsail yard with the parral beads in place. The parrel beads around the fore topgallant yard is shown in the next picture. Next is a photo of the topsail yard lfts which are now fully rigged and belayed. The final two photos show the lifts for the main topgallant yard, noting I have not belayed which will be via a double block arrangement, with the lower block hooked to an eyebolt on the lower platform.
  13. Glenn-UK
    Shiver Me Timbers Todays task was to build a swashbuckling pirate ship ready for a battle on the seas. The kit came with 29 pieces and is suitable for 3+ although the kit did say "Adult Assembly Required". As with most of the kits I build I did have to strip it down and start again as I did miss adding a vital part. I did have have a willing helper and after 40 minutes of hard work the kit was completed.
  14. Glenn-UK
    This post details the method I have used to rig the topsail sail tyes. As can be seen in the first two photos below the rigging is fed through a double block on the topsail yard and is the reeved through a single block located on the topsail platform. The rigging is then belayed to the deck via two 5mm single blocks. Starting with the upper 5mm single block the tye thread is held in place as the block seizing is added as shown by the red arrow in the photo below. The lower thread is then added, held in place with a reef knot. The lower thread is then held in the quad hands so the seizing can be added, The block is then reversed so the seizing can be added to the upper tye thread. The completed upper 5mm block is shown in the next photo. These threads are then reeved through the 3mm single block and the 4mm double block, the 4mm block is shown in the photo below. A length of thread is then seized around the lower 5mm single block. An eyebolt is then added to the thread, using a template to set the distance between the eyebolt and single block. The next set of photos shows the completed rigging.
  15. Glenn-UK
    Well done on completing a fantastic looking model, one you can be really proud of. 👏👏👏
  16. Glenn-UK
    I spent a bit of time yesterday belying the rigging that had been run in, some of which can be seen in the first three first photos below. With the jibboom and flying jibboom added their respective shroud rigging were next to be added. I opted to use hooks to secure these blocks to the bow for ease of installation, as can be seen in the two photo below, noting the plan sheet shows these blocks should be seized directly to the eyebolts. The free ends of the inter-block rigging will be belayed to pins located on the bow inner bulwark belay pin racks. The shrouds are also feed through eyelets located on the spritsail yard before being secured to the ends of the jibboom and flying jibboom.
  17. Glenn-UK
    The two boomkins have now been added. It was a simple task to cut and shape two lengths of 3mm dowel as per the plan sheet. Once painted they were glued in place. The shroud were added along with the 5mm single blocks. The boomkin shrouds were added, as shown below. Can you spot the error I made? The next photo shows the error. The green arrow shows what I did right. The three red arrows shows where the various shrouds should have been placed. Thankfully, as far as I am concerned, it does not matter as no one will notice this once the model has been completed.
  18. Glenn-UK
    Before moving on to making and adding the boomkins I decided I should add both the jibboom and flying jibboom so the fore topsail and fore topgallant stays could be rigged. The first two photos show the jibboom and flying jibboom in place. The dolphin striker was also added. As you will note, when looking at the photo, I made an error with where the fore topsail sail stay should be reeved. I used the upper hole rather than the middle hole. I only realised this error after I had added the thimble to the stay end. I concluded that I could accept this mistake rather than running in a new stay. Both stays are belayed using thimbles, with the reciprocal thimbles for each stay hooked to eyebolts on the bow, as can be seen in the next photo. The next photo shows the foremast with the all the various mast stays in place. The final photo of this post shows the current status of the Harpy rigging.
  19. Glenn-UK
    Time is still limited in the shipyard (aka sauna) due to the current heatwave in the UK meaning much more time is being spent lounging in the garden topping up my tan. 😎☀️ The work that has been undertaken is as follows: a) adding the belaying blocks for the main topsail stays as shown in the photo below, The free ends of the inter-block rigging will be tied off to a belying pin located on the pin rack on the foremast. b) adding the thimbles to the main topgallant stays which are linked to the thimbles located on the foremast main platform, as shown below. The free ends will be tied off around the inter-thimble rigging. c) Adding the blocks to the fore topsail stays as shown in the next two photos. The free ends of the inter-block rigging will be tied off to a belaying pin located on the pin rack at the front of the inner bulwarks,. The final set of photos shows the current build status. My next task will be to make, add and rig the two boomkins.
  20. Glenn-UK
    I have now completed adding the shrouds to both the main and fore topgallant masts. Both the main and fore topgallant mast stays have also been run in. I now have a number of rigged threads to belay. When looking at the plan sheets for the main topgallant mast stays I noted a slight anomaly. There is a 4mm double block fitted to the top of the fore topsail mast which is used for the main topgallant mast stay, as shown below. I could not understands why this was a double block and then noted that this double block is also used for the two topgallant yard braces which made much more sense. I decided to add an additional 3mm single block to the fore topsail mast cap for reeving the stay. The next two photos shows these blocks. The next two photos show the various back stays that are belayed to the channel. The next photo shows the main topgallant mast stays, which have been rigged but are waiting to be belayed. The final two photos shows the current build status.
  21. Glenn-UK
    The next task undertaken was adding the shrouds to both the main and fore topgallant masts. This was a fairly straightforward task. I did fix the wayward catharpin which can be seen in the second photo. I did not look at the rigging plans properly as I missed the following note which I should have done before adding the topgallant shrouds. Thankfully this is not a show stopper error as I did find it possible to add these blocks with the topgallant shrouds in situ. There were not fixed in place as per the plan requirements but they are acceptable to me. I started the process of adding these blocks by seizing the 3mm blocks. I used two lengths of threads so I could have thread available at each end of the block. In the photo below the first thread has been wrapped around the block and held in place with a simple crossover knot. The second thread was inserted in the under the first thread as the crossover knot was tightened. With the thread held in the quad hands the first thread was seized, as can be seen below. The block was then reversed in the quad hands so the second thread could be seized, as shown below. The first two blocks are now ready to be added. The first block has been fitted.
  22. Glenn-UK
    Over the last couple of days I have been working on the Royal and Shifting backstays.. The Royal backstay is a simple task as it drops down from the top mast (fore and main) and has a deadeye at the end which is rigged with a lanyard with a deadeye on the channel. The shifting backstay is a slightly more complicated arrangement. The shifting stay drops down from the top mast and has a 5mm block added to the end. It is then belayed to the channel via two 3mm blocks and two eyebolts. After I added a 5mm single block to the end of shifting stay I moved on to the 2 off 3mm blocks. A thread is passed through the 5mm block with a 3mm block on one end and the other end is belayed to eyebolt on the channel. With the first 3mm block is seized the thread is then added as shown in next set of photos. The other end of the first 3mm block also requires a length of thread adding. I used a needle to add the thread which is then seized as shown below. Another 3mm block is seized to an eyebolt. With the eyebolts added to the channels the various shifting stay threads were then run in They will be tied off later off in the rigging process.
  23. Glenn-UK
    Before moving on to the next stage I realised I had not added the catharpins to the fore and main tops masts. I have refined my method in this respect which should ensure they are all made to the correct length, 2 off required for each topmast. I started the process by making a loop in one end of the thread. The thread is wrapped around a 1mmD copper bar, held in the quad hands and the seizing is then added. I then made a jig, using two lengths of 1mmD copper bar set to the required distance. The catharpin thread is then placed over one of the copper pins. The other end of the thread is wrapped around the other pin and then held in place using the quad hands, as can be seen below. It is then a simple task to add the seizing so the second loop is formed. It did not take long to make the four catharpins. I did add a small amount of ca clue along the length to stiffen them. The final task was to secure these to the shrouds. A length of thread was secured to each catharpin loop using a simple reef (square) knot. The thread were then passed around the futtock stave and toed off, once again using a reef knot. The excess threads were then cut off.
  24. Glenn-UK
    I have completed adding the ratlines to both the fore and main topmasts. Fore topmast Main topmast Next I started to add the main and fore topmast stays and preventor stays. Main topmast The main topmast stay and preventor have been fed through the blocks located on the fore mast and are now ready to be belayed. The final photo shows the current state of the build.
  25. Glenn-UK
    Work is still progressing on the fore and main top mast shrouds. The futtocks staves have now been added. Fore topmast Main topmast Harpy The next set of photos does not show my workmanship in the best light. The next task is adding the ratlines. I have added all the bottom most ratline to both the fore and main topmasts. I can now work my way upward adding every 5th ratline, as indicated by the 1's on my template. I did mark one of the 3's as a 2 on my template as can be seen below but I did correct this. Next I add the next set of every 5th ratline, which are marked as the 2's on my template. The final task is to add all the remaining ratlines, which are the 3's on my template. I have made a start on adding the 3's.

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