Glenn-UK

Fore Topsail Mast Ratlines I am now in the process of adding the ratlines to the fore topsail mast. The first task was to make a template and then clamp in place. In the photo below I have already added a few ratlines. As explained in previous posts I prefer to add every 5th ratline first, as indicated by the 0's on the template. I then add all the 1's before completing the task by adding all the 2's It took me a couple of hours to complete one side. A couple of the deadeye seizing's could have been done better (i.e. the middle and right hand end ones) but I can live with how they look which is all that matters. Work is now progressing to complete adding the ratlines to the other side.

Fore Topsail Shrouds I am currently working on installing the shrouds for the fore, main and mizzen topsail masts. I have added the shrouds to the fore topsail mast, and the lanyards are now ready to be tied off, as can be seen in the photo below. I started the process by making all the shroud pairs for all three topsail masts. The shrouds were run through some beeswax which was then melted using a hairdryer and were then left hanging with a slight weight to help get rid of all the kinks. It will then a case of adding the shrouds to each of the topsail masts and adding the deadeyes. Starting with the fore topsail mast all the shrouds were added. As then were run in I used some clamps to keep them in the approx positions. The deadeyes have been added to the first shroud pair and the lanyards threaded in the next couple of photos. I am using my tried and tested method to adding the deadeyes. The jig prongs are inserted into the platform deadeyes. The shroud is then feed down through the top guides and through the bottom hole. A clamp is used to apply some tension to the shroud. Next a needle with some seizing thread is passed through the top hole in the jig. This should ensure that each shroud deadeye is set to the same position above the platform deadeye once the lanyards have been added. It is then an easy job to make the loop the loop. A deadeye can then be placed in the shroud and the free end is then be pulled which closes the loop around the deadeye. As the lanyards are been run in I am pleased that the shroud deadeyes seem to be nice and level with each other. I will need to make the final adjustments when the lanyards are tied off.

Mast Shaping Completed This morning I completed the shaping for the fore topsail and fore topgallant masts. These fore mast sections were then successfully test fitted on the Indy. When looking at the next photo I do need make a minor adjustment to where the foretopgallant mast sits within the end cap as the hole for the FID is currently below the platform and cannot be fitted. The next task will be to paint and add the blocks to all these mast sections (fore, main and mizzen). Once that is done the topsail masts will be added to the Indy so the shrouds and ratlines can be added. Here are a few pictures of the Indy with all the masts in place, noting the topsail and topgallant masts are only dry fitted. The other models in the background are Speedy (incomplete), IJN Yamato, Alert and the Duchess of Kingston

Mizzen Topgallant Mast I have continued making the various masts. The mizzen topgallant mast was a fairly straightforward mast to make and appears to be a good fit. Main Topsail Mast I then moved on to making the main topsail mast. This mast was made from a piece of 8mm dowel, which is cut longer than required, and will be trimmed to the right size once all the shaping is completed, I applied a piece of tape to indicate the where the top square section will end. Using a craft knife and needle file the top section of the dowel was squared off. The very top section was then rounded off and the topsail end cap fitting was checked. The topsail platform was also test fitted. So far so good. Next I applied the taper section to the middle section using my proxxon mini lathe. The conical section is still to be shaped. Next using a craft knife and file the bottom section was shaped, starting with making a square section. Next I created the octangle shaping to either side of the bottom square section, and then drilled the hole for the FID, which turned out to the hardest task. This is because I managed to snap the micro drill bit and the broken drill end was very difficult to remove. Thankfully the broken drill bit did eventually surrender so the FID could be test fitted. The final task was to create the conical shaping, which I did using a craft knife and sand paper. The topsail mast was then tested fitted to the main mast and looked good.

Mizzen Topsail Mast Over the last couple of days I have been making the Mizzen Topsail Mast. Starting with a piece of dowel I added the square section to the top section and then rounded off the top section. The dowel was then placed in my proxxon mini lathe so the mid section taper could be added. Next, using a sharp craft knife and sand paper, I created the conical shape below the square section. I decided to make the bottom section of the topsail from a separate piece of 6mm square stock material. I started with the top octagonal section. Next I reduce the square section down from 6mm to 5mm. Finally I added the smaller octagonal section to the lower end. A hole was also drilled for the FID which was test fitted. It was then a case off adding a pin between the two pieces and gluing them together. The topsail mast was then test fitted to the Indy and I was pleased it was a good fit without any modifications. The topsail platform crosstrees have not been fitted in the photo below, but can be seen on the main mizzen platform. The lower section showing the cap is a good fit. The crosstrees are resting on the mizzen mast platform and are ready to be added to the topsail platform. Close up of the underside of the platform after the crosstrees were added. Close up of the topsail mast cap I will continue to make the remaining topsail and topgallant mast over the next few days.

Indy Build Status My time in the shipyard has been very limited over the last 10 days so progress has been slow but I have completed adding the stays and preventors for the main and mizzen masts. I have attached a couple of photo's of the current build status. Since my last post I have added the main stay and preventor. The aspect which I found difficult to add was the snaking. It took me a few false starts before the snaking was completed to an acceptable level, albeit it is far from perfect. Next I added the mizzen mast stay which was a very easy task to complete. Before I move on to adding the top and topgallant masts there are a few more blocks which I need to add to the three masts, as shown below.

Thanks Allan I have no idea regarding wooden hoops. I am just following the plan sheets provided with the kit for for the position of the woldings and iron banding. Cheers Glenn

Futtock Shrouds - Completed It was a intense day in the shipyard yesterday as I wanted to complete the futtock shrouds as I will have very limited shipyard time over the next few days. Working in to the early evening the shrouds were finally completed. This is another milestone reached with this project but there is still a few more months work ahead to complete the build. The completed fore mast futtock shrouds is shown in the next two photos. The completed main mast futtock shrouds are shown in the next two photos. I might need to redo one of the catharpins which looks a bit odd in the photo below The completed mizzen mast futtock shrouds are shown in the next two photos. I might redo the aft catharpin which is a bit oversized, as it is a bit long as can be seen in the second photo below. Finally a few pictures of the Indy. My white backdrop is not big enough for taking pictures of the Indy.

Futtock Shroud Ratlines It did not take me long to add the ratlines to the right-hand side futtock shrouds. I used a template to set the distance between the shrouds. The completed foremast futtock shroud The following is not a great photo showing the completed main and mizzen mast futtock shrouds. A final picture of the Indy

Futtock Shrouds Over the last few days I have been working on adding the futtock shrouds to the right-hand side. The first task was to make all the shrouds for both the right-hand left hand side. Next I populated the mast platforms (both sides) with the deadeyes. Once that was done I ran the right-hand side shrouds in and used clamps to apply to light tension. I then applied a coat of diluted pva to the shrouds and left them dry. The clamped shrouds are shown in the photo below. Next each shroud was wrapped around the back of the futtock stave. A clamp was used to keep the line in place. The shroud shown in the next photo is now is having the seizing added. When adding the seizing I first ran the seizing thread through a block of beeswax a couple of times which I have found has made it easier to work with. Once each seizing is complete I use a hairdryer to melt the beeswax before adding a touch a ca. The method of wrapping and securing the shroud I have using is not strictly in accordance with the two methods outlined in Longridge's book but it is a close enough approximation for my needs and ability. The completed right-hand side foremast is shown in the next photo. The complete right-hand side main mast is shown in the next two photos. The mizzen mast proved to be a bit more of a challenge. In order to leave room for wrapping the topgallant shrouds around the bottom of the deadeye stroops I placed some thread around the stroop base, as shown on the next photo. Unfortunately thread I used for this was too thick and I there was too much vertical movement of the stroops within the platform once all the shrouds had been added. I was able to carefully remove all the seizing's and start again. Second time around I used a much thinner thread, as can be seen below. These yielded much better results and once seized, as can be seen in the next photo. I will now add the ratline lines to all the right-hand side futtock shrouds before moving on to repeat the process for the left-hand side.

Thanks Kevin, very informative.

Many thanks, I know I could have done a better job. The template really helped and I feel confident I can make a better job for the main mast stay snaking.

Adding The Snaking This is this first time I have added snaking to one of my models. I tried a few different methods to add between the fore stay and preventor but I really struggled to get them looking anywhere near passable. This morning I thought I had thought of a fool proof method, which was based on what I use to do when building Airfix models boats as a young boy. The method was essentially to pre-make the snaking and then to attach to the stay and preventor. I started this process by making a template. I added a series of pins where the snaking connects to the stay and preventor. A length of thread was then wrapped around these pins. A coat of diluted pva was applied to the thread. and left to dry. I was hoping that, once the thread had dried out, the thread would retain the required shape and that I could then tie it to the stay and preventor. I made a schoolboy error in that, as the diluted glue dried the thread had become stuck, in some places to the template. I lost the shape as I tried to release the thread from the template. Although I thought the method was a viable option I decided to abandon this approach. All was not lost. I retained the template and clamped it to the stay and preventor. It was then a case of securing the thread to the stay and preventor. I ended up using a clove hitch to secure the thread to the preventor (top). I used a simple wrap around for the stay (bottom). I did not make a great job of the snaking but, compared to some of my previous efforts, I am reasonably happy with the end result. The final task was to apply some Indian ink to dye the snaking. The snaking is not perfect but I do not have the patience or will power to rip it off (again) to get a better end result.

Foremast Stay and Preventor I have now added the foremast stay and foremast preventor and I have detailed the method I used to complete this task. I started off with making a thimble in one end of the stay and preventor threads. I made sure the thread would pass through the thimble. Next I added a mouse to each thread. This was a two part process. I used some 0.1mm black thread for the central section and then added some 0.25mm black thread before, over and after the 0.1mm black thread. The mouse does slide up and down the thread. The stay and preventor were then wrapped around the foremast and the free ends passed though their respective thimbles. The position of each mouse was then adjusted and a touch a ca glue was used to prevent further movement of the mouse. The close heart was then positioned in the stay (and preventor). I used my quad hands for this, certainly one of the best and essential tools used for my model making when adding the rigging. I have started to add the seizing in the next photo. I ended up added three seizing's to the stay and preventor. I created a thimble to one end of each of the lanyards and then added them to the closed hearts. It was then a simple case of adding a few loops. The completed stay and preventor, ready and waiting for the snaking to be added. I am currently experimenting with different methods for adding the snaking as my first two attempts did not passed muster, fingers crossed it will be third time lucky.

Looks great Kevin, well done.

On the Indy the fore stay and preventor are not looped around the bowsprit and spritsail as shown in Petersonn's book. They are actually located nearer the bow and are only looped around the bowsprit. The bowsprit shroud deadeyes are also fitted to these loops.

Thanks for the info and kind comments. I generally follow the rigging plans provided with the kit. I also refer to Longridge and Petersson's books to help to get a better understanding. The forestay and forestay preventor stays are open heart type fixed to the bowsprit (Type D in your photo) and closed heart types fitted to the actual stays as shown in the photo below.

Bowsprit Shrouds I have managed to reattached the broken sword to the figurehead. I also reattached the rails. It was then a case of adding the 4 shrouds for the bowsprit. The rigging of the shrouds was relatively easy to do. Next up will be to add the foremast stay and preventer.

It does get crowded and the model is prone to more mishaps.

Bowsprit Gammoning Today I added the gammoning to the bowsprit. It took two attempts. On the first attempt I did not have the figurehead in place. I discovered I could not fit the figurehead once the gammoning was complete as the helmet was fouling with the wolding. Unfortunately I managed to damage the figurehead, the tip of sword broke off. I will try to reglue once the bowsprit rigging is complete, The bow rails also fell off which actually made adding the gammoning easier. I started the gammoning process by cutting a long length of 0.75mm black thread. I then passed the thread through a beeswax block a couple of times and melted it using a hairdryer. I then made a thimble at one end of the gammoning thread and checked the thread would pass through it. In the next photo I have started the gammoning rigging. The thread has been looped around the bowsprit and the free end has been fed through the thimble. In the next photo I have made 4 passes around the bowsprit. There is still some traces of beeswax on the gammoning thread but once the gammoning is complete I will use the hairdryer again to remove. The gammoning is progressing well, 8 loops have now been added in the next photo. I ended up doing 10 loops and then tied off the free end. The excess beeswax has been removed with the hairdryer.

Thank you.

Adding Futtock Staves to Main Mast I have now added the futtock staves to both the main and mizzen masts. I have attached a series of photos of the process I use. I placed a length of blacken brass rod in my quad hands and positioned it against the shrouds in it required position. The brass rod is oversized and will be trimmed once the catharpins have been added. The copper rod is then secured to the shrouds in two places, as indicated by the blue arrows. Once this is done the quads hand can be removed. It is then a process of securing the the brass rod to each of the shrouds. I use a figure of 8 pattern for this. To do this the first diagonal is made using a overhand knot. The direction of the tied knot, when tightened is indicated by the blue line The two free end are then repositioned so second overhand knot can be tied and the direction of the knot, when tightened, is shown by the blue line. After a touch of ca is then applied to the knots and the free ends are then trimmed. It did not take too much time or effort to complete the task.

Fitting the inner foremast catharpins I thought I would share the method I have used to fit the two inner catharpins for the lower foremast. This method has worked really well for me. When looking at method for how these were fitted the two diagrams shown in Longridge's book indicates the catharpins had thimbles (loops) at each end. Seizing thread was then passed through the loops to secure to the futtock stave. As per @Blue Ensign comment above the leading catharpin should not really be secured to the first shroud position and then bent around the mast. Step1 - Making the first loop I cut a length of 0.5mm black thread a wrapped it around a copper bar to create a loop. Step 2 - Add first seizing I opted to use 0.1mm black thread and added the seizing. I think it may have been better to used fly tying thread for the seizing in hindsight. Step 3 - Add the second seizing As shown on the rigging plans there are two seizing's required. The thread is removed from the quad hands and a touch of ca glues was used to stiffen the loop. Step 4 - Create the second loop Using the same method as before the loop at the other end of the catharpin was created. I had made a simple jig to set the required length of the inner catharpins. Once the first seizing of the 2nd loop had been added the catharpin was place on the jig. The position of the seizing was carefully adjusted until the require length was achieved. Step 5 - Completing the Seizing The catharpin was returned to the quad hands so the seizing to the to the 2nd loop could be added. Once that was done the catharpin was held taut in quad hands and a light diluted coating of pva was applied. A hairdryer was then used to to quickly dry the diluted solution. Step 6 - Adding the thread to the loops A length of 0.1mm black thread were added to each of the catharpin loops. Step 7 - Fitting the catharpin to the futtock stave The flying leads are then thread over and under the futtock stave and secured using a standard reef (square) knot. Step 8 - Repeat the process for the other inner catharpin A second catharpin was made using the exact same method as detailed above and added to the foremast futtock stave.

Very informative and many thanks for the heads up. I really like research like this as it really helps improve my limited knowledge base.😀 I will leave as fitted for my Indy build as I am happy with the alignment of the futtock staves and once fully rigging it will not be that noticeable.

Thank you