Glenn-UK

Stage 9 – Pianting The Hull Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 1 Build Steps 44-46 Painting the hull white takes time to get a nice even finish. After brushing diluted wood filler in the visible gaps / depressions in the completed second planking the hull is sanded until it feels smooth to touch. A thin coat of white paint was then applied to the hull as this really shows up the defects as can be seen in the following four photos. Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 2 Build Steps 44-46 A liberal amount of slightly diluted wood filler to the hull, as can be seen in the next two photos. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 3 Build Steps 44-46 Once the wood filler has dried the hull is once again sanded smooth. As can be seen in the next three photos the hull is looking smoother, but more work is still required. Time Taken 20 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 4 Build Steps 44-46 More diluted wood filler is then applied to the areas which need more attention and then the hull is once again sanded smooth and this process is repeated until I was happy the end result, as shown in the next three photos. Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 5 Build Steps 44-46 The rudder was also assembled and painted and then test fitted, as shown in the next photo. It will be added to the hull later in the build process. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Painting The Hull – Stage 6 Build Steps 44-46 The outer bulwark patterns were then test fitted against the painted hull and everything look good. Time Taken 5 mins

Thanks, my Harpy kit is in the shipyard and I am itching to get started but I will continue on with the Sherbourne which I am using to try out some different ideas.

Stage 8 – Second Planking Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Appling a lateral bend Build Steps 33 I have reverted to using Chuck’s lateral bending method as it is yielding much better results than the method used for the first couple of upper planks. After wetting the plank, I used clamps to apply a lateral bend. I then used a hairdryer to dry the plank so it hold’s its shape once the clamps are removed. Please refer to the first two photos below in respect to the above In the third photo below a laterally bent plank is being test fitted and this plank looks OK. Sometimes it is necessary to repeat the bending process to get the required lateral bend. Time Taken 5 mins Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking – Adding a plank Build Steps 33 Before fitting the plank, The area where the ca glue needs to be added is marked. This is shown in the first photo below. The plank is dampened, as this helps the adhesion with ca glue. Ca glue is then added to the hull along the marked area. Starting at the bow the plank is pushed into the rabbet and then is pressed down working back toward the stern, ensuring any excess ca glue is wiped away. The final three photos show the end result after 7 upper planks have been fitted to both sides. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Starboard Side Build Steps 33 A total of 15 off full planks were required for the second planking on the starboard side. I am really pleased with the end result. Although more work is required to improve my technique, this is without my best work with regards to adding the second planking. Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Completing Second Planking – Port Side Build Steps 33 I have added 11 planks to the port side, so there are 4 more planks to fit to complete this task. As can be seen on the second photo the gap to fill, at the midship section, requires exactly 4 planks. Time Taken 60 mins

Looking good, as always.

Stage 7 – Fitting Outer Prow, Keel and Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction –Prow nd Keel Outer Patterns Build Steps 33-36 The two prow outer patterns were glued in place, using the locking keys to help with the correct alignment. I also used a pin to check the various holes in these patterns were aligned with each other. Once that was done, I repeated the process for the two outer keel patterns. I used plenty of clamps to hold these patterns in place whilst the glue cured. Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction – Outer Bulwark Patterns Build Steps 37-38 I soaked the two outer bulwark patterns in warm water for a few minutes and then clamped them to the hull and left them overnight to fully dry out and to retain the required bend. Time Taken 20 mins Stage 7 – Start Of Second Planking Hull Construction – Start of the Second Planking Build Steps 33 With the two outer bulwark patterns still clamped, but not glued to the hull, I started the second planking. I started with the upper most plank for both sides. I wetted each plank so I could manipulate the required bend at the bow and stern using my hands. Once I was happy with the dry fit I applied some ca glue to the hull and then fitted the slightly wetted planks. The outer bulwark patterns were then removed from the hull. I then added two further upper level planks per side. Next I added the garboard and it’s adjacent plank to both sides. It took a bit more time to fit these planks as I had to ensure I had the correct shaping to these planks when fitted to the bow. Time Taken 60 mins

Stage 6 – Sanding First Planking Part 1 – Checking Rabbet Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Left-hand side Build Steps 33 Before I started the hull sanding process, I thought it would be beneficial to dry fit the outer prow and keel patterns. In the first two photos I have indicated where the rabbet needs to be opened up (yellow arrow) and where some filler will be required (blue arrow). Time Taken 10 mins Hull Construction –Checking Rabbet – Right-hand side Build Steps 33 As can be seen in the next photo the outer bulwark pattern does fit in the rabbet. However, there is work required to open (yellow arrow) and fill (blue arrow) some of the rabbet along the prow and keel, where the second planking will terminate as shown in the second photo (yellow arrow). Time Taken 5 mins Hull Construction – Modified Rabbets left and right Build Steps 33 In the following three photos the rectification work has been completed and I am now happy that the second planking will locate in the rabbet. In the final photo you can see a test plank has been successfully slotted in the keel rabbet. I have also started to work out the curved shape. As you will note my first shaping still requires more work. I find it is easier to test fit the garboard plank bow shaping on a test piece before the outer pattern have been glued in place. Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Hull Sanding Build Steps 33 I have also completed sanding the hull smooth. I smothered the hull with wood filler and once it had dried I used my mouse sanding and sandpaper to remove most of the wood filler, the remaining filler was left in the depressions. I also sanded the dead area (stern) to ensure the second planking, when fitted, will sit flues with the keel and stern post. Time Taken 30 mins Sorry I forget to take some photos of the sanded hull but I try to remember to add some in my next post.

Hello Rob Many thanks for the mention. I still have much to learn and improve with regards to the model ship building and the Sherbourne was really helped me improve my planking skills. You are doing a fantastic job. Glenn

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 4 – Task Completed Hull Construction –First Planking Completed Build Steps 31-32 Today I added the final two planks per side followed by the steelers which means I have now completed the first planking. I have also trimmed the excess planks material around the stern area and the hull is now ready to be sanded smooth. I will use my mouse sander initially before reverting to a sanding block, sandpaper and sanding sticks. The mouse sander will be a great help when reducing the plank depth around the stern area so the second planking, when fitted, will sit flush with the keel and stern post. This is the best first planking I have managed in all of my boat builds, but there is still a lot of room for improvement. Time Taken 120 mins

It is the Amati pin pusher which I bought from Cornwall Model Boats.

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 3 Hull Construction –First Planking Method Build Steps 31-32 I have continued with the first planking working down toward the keel. It takes me approx. 20 minutes to fit each plank. This can be split down to 5 minutes to test fit, taper and to add a bevel to the top edge of the plank. It then takes me 5 minutes to bend the plank using steam from a boiling kettle. The steam process sometimes requires 3 or 4 kettle boils to get the required bend (bow and stern). It then takes me around 10 minutes to glue and pin the plank to the hull and to then clean away any excess wood glue. Overall I am pleased with this new method of fitting the planks and although the planking is not perfect I am not suffering, as much, with a clinkered effect. One of the other positives is that I bought a new pin pusher which is so much easier to use than my other two pin pushers. The most beneficial aspect of the steam bending process, in my opinion, is the ability to add twists to some of the planks which ensures the planks sit flat across the bulkheads. You may also note a red tinge on one of the attached photos, as I did manage to cut my finger when trimming a plank and did not realise until I noticed the blood on the hull. In the final photo of this photo you will note that I require exactly two planks to complete the planking along with some stern stealers. Time Taken 210 mins

Stage 5 - First Planking Part 2 (Garboard Plank) Hull Construction –First Planking Method – Adding Garboard Plank Build Steps 31-32 I have now fitted the garboard plank and its adjacent plank on both sides. I used the same method, as per my first three planks, when fitting these planks. Time Taken 60 mins Photo 1 shows the first step where the centre bulkhead is aligned with the plank (Blue arrow). The bow shaping has also been started but still needs a little bit of sanding. The yellow arrow indicates where a slight twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle. Photo 2 shows the stern area and the yellow arrow indicates where a twist will be added using steam from a boiling kettle. Photos 3 & 4 were taken after I had applied the twists and I am test fitting the bow and stern sections before gluing the plank in place. Photos 5 to 8 shows the current garboard plank build status and were taken after the second plank had been added. 5 planks have now been fitted per side which means another 7 planks per side are required to complete the 1st planking task. Adding the twists to planks has been an eye opener for me and has certainly made the planking task easier.

Hello Joachim There are outer patterns to be added to the keel and prow which forms the rabbet. Locking keys, which are pushed in the oblong slots, are used to align these patterns. Thanks Glenn

Stage 5 First Planking Part 1 Hull Construction –First Planking Method – First Three Planks Build Steps 31-32 I have now started the first planking task. The first two photos shows the first plank in place. When fitting the planks I start by positioning and marking the plank against one of the central bulkheads as a reference point. This is shown in the third photo below. I then mark the point at which the plank starts to overlap around the bow area. I also mark the point where a slight twist in the plank will help with the fit around the stern. I then draw the required bow taper so the plank width is approx 3mm wide when the plank meets the prow. The tapered plank is then test fitted and, when necessary the taper is tweaked for a better fit. I also add a chamfer to the top edge of the plank. Next using steam from a boiling kettle the bend is applied to the bow end and the twist to the stern end of the plank. Once I am happy with the shaping, I check the position of the plank with the pencil marking on the central bulkhead and adjust the markings as necessary so the plank is a good fit with the prow. Once that is done, I applied glue to all the bulkheads and the plank is positioned to the central bulkhead, using the pencil alignment. The pins are then added, started from the centre and moving toward the stern and bow one pin at a time. Once the planks has been pinned any excess wood glue wiped away. The final two photos shows the Sherbourne after three planks per side have been added. In total there will be approx. 12 planks per side required at the widest point with some stealers required at the stern. Parts Time Taken 120 minutes

Stage 3 Fitting the Outer Bulwark Patterns Hull Construction – Installing Bulwark Patterns Build Steps 23-30 The outer bulwark patterns were test fitted but I felt there was not enough give to bend these parts around the bow. After the bow ends were soaked in warm water for a few minutes it was then possible to test fit the parts and to clamp them in place to allow the patterns to fully dry out. As can be seen in the following photos I did make sure the patterns were aligned with the laser etched deck and bulkhead guidelines. I will do another couple of test fits to make sure I am totally happy with the fit. Before gluing these pattern in place I will also experiment with a new (for me) planking method. Parts 30L, 30R Time Taken 10 mins Stage 4 First Planking Testing Method Bow Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow Build Steps 31-32 One of the reasons I bought this kit was to try out a new method of planking which I had seen on Jason’s “Modelkit Stuff” YouTube channel. I am using some spare planking material for this task. With the plank held in place I added a pencil mark on the plank where it starts to overlap the bulwark, as shown in the first photo. I decided that I would trim the plank down to half its full width. After drawing a line I placed the plank in my strip clamp as shown in the second photo below. The excess material was then removed using my mini place and then a sanding stick. Once I had worked out the bending requirements the plank was held in pliers over a boiling kettle so the bend could be formed, as shown in the 3rd photo below. As can be seen in the forth photo I had made a slight error of judgement when tapering to half width as there is a small gap between the plank and the bulwark. As a minor adjustment the plank is an almost perfect fit as shown in the fifth photo. It is good to be able to practice this method with spare material. As the test plank was sitting slightly proud I added to chamfer to the top edge which solved the problem. Parts 5 mins Time Taken Stage 5 First Planking Testing Method Stern Hull Construction – Testing First Planking Method - Bow Build Steps 31-32 The stern area requires a slightly different approach in order for the plank to sit flat on the last few bulkheads. A twist in the plank is required. After marking the point where the twist should occur I used the same steam method to create the required twist. The twisted plank is shown in the first photo below. The second photo shows the test fit and the plank does now sit flush on all the bulkheads without any undue force or stress. The more observant will also note that the chamfered top edge is now on the bottom as I did apply the twist the wrong way in my first test piece. Good job I am only practicing with spare material, although I could redo the twist on this plank with more steam!! Parts Time Taken

Stage 2 - Fairing The Hull Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull Build Steps 21-22 This is an important task to get right and requires plenty of test fitting of planks during the fairing process. I used a mixture of a sanding block fitted with 220 grit sandpaper, a 400 grit sanding stick and 220 grit sandpaper. As can seen in the following photos the planking seems to be sitting fully on the various bulkheads. Parts Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull Build Steps 21-22 When doing a test fit of the bulwarks there is still a little bit of fairing work required at the stern, as can be seen in the next photo. The bulwarks do line up perfectly with the deck however. Hull Construction – Adding Prow and Keel Bottom Build Steps 23-27 There are two prow supports to be glued to the prow, using a locking peg to help with the correct alignment. The leading edges of the prow supports were chamfered before they were fitted. The prow and keel were then glued and clamped to the hull assembly. Parts 57, 65, 107, 108 Time Taken 10 mins

Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 2 Hull Construction – Stern Frames, Gluing Hull Frame and Sub Deck Build Steps 13-19 After a test fit of the inner and outer stern frames the laser char was removed from the visible edges as I felt this would be easier to do prior to their installation. Once I had cleaned and glued the stern frames in place a diluted wood glue solution was brushed to all the bulkhead / false keel and lower deck joints. The final task of this section of the build was to add the sub deck. Glue was applied to all the keel and bulkhead contact points and the sub deck was slotted into place, checking that the sub deck was clicking into the locating slots on each bulkhead. As an added precaution diluted wood glue was then bushed into all the sub deck joints. Parts 109, 110, 29 Time Taken 30 minutes Hull Construction –Sub Deck Items Dry Fit Build Steps It is now a good time, before bulwarks and planking has been added, to check that the various deck items will pass the the sub deck openings and will then locate in slots provided in the lower deck. As can be seen in the next three photos everything aligned up perfectly and there is also a nice rake angel for the mast. Parts Time Taken 10 minutes Hull Construction – Transom and Stern Counter Build Steps 20-21 I decided it would be prudent to soak the inner stern counter in warm water for a few minutes before clamping it to the curved section of the stern frames. I used a hair dry to accelerate the drying process once the wetted pattern had been clamped in place. I also added a chamfer to the lower inside edge for a better fit. Once I was happy with the fit the stern counter it was glued and clamped to the stern frames, using the laser etched guides. After an initial test fit of the inner transom pattern I added a chamfer to the bottom edge to ensure a nice tight fit with the stern counter. It was then glued and clamped in place. Parts 62, 63 Time Taken 10 mins Basic Hull Construction Completed Build Steps The basic (stage 1) hull build is now complete and the Sherbourne is now ready for the next stage which is fairing and 1st planking. I am also expecting to take delivery of the Harpy tomorrow (6th December) but I will do my best to resist making a start on the Harpy until I have completed the first planking on the Sherbourne. Parts Time Taken

Build Log Index Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 1 Hull Construction – Pre bevelling of Bulkheads Build Steps 1-2 Laser etched guidelines are provided on bulkheads 1-4 and 13-17 and chamfers were added to these bulkheads. Once the basic hull had been assembled all the bulkheads will be faired to the required shape, so the planks are in full contact. Parts 1-17 Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Keel Assembly and Lower Deck Build Steps 3-9 Bulkheads 1-16 were then slotted in place to the false keel but were not glued in place at this stage of the build process. Bulkhead 17 will be fitted at a later stage in the build process. Next the left and right keel doublers were slotted in place. I did add the chamfer using the laser etch guide lines before they were fitted. The locking pegs were then glued in place to ensure the keel doublers were correctly aligned with the false hull. After a test fit of the lower deck glue was applied to the top contact areas on the bulkheads and the deck then added using the laser etched “top” marking to ensure the correct orientation. Parts 1-18, 19L, 19R, 22, 23 Time Taken 15 mins Hull Construction – Bow Frames, Longitudinal Support and Deck Camber Beams Build Steps 10-12 The two bow frames, after a test fit were chamfered and then they were glued in place. Next the two longitudinal support patterns were chamfer and glued in place, after a test fit. With reference to the plan sheet the various deck camber beams were glued in place. All excess glue was removed from the top edges, where the deck will be placed. Parts 20L, 20R, 21L, 21R, 24, 25 Time Taken 15 mins Although I have not seen any reference to it I think the top edge of bulkhead 17 will require a chamfer so the deck, when fitted, will sit flush. I think can be seen in the following build manual photo. With bulkhead 17 in place I have marked the top edge that needs to be chamfered.

There are a few different planking and rigging ideas I want to experiment and the HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne kit ticked all the boxes for this task. One of the methods I wish to try out is the use of steam to bend bend and twist the planks. The twisting of tapered planks around the bow region, I think, should produce the same result as Chuck's lateral planking method which I have tended to use, with limited success, on some of my last recent builds. I can also see the benefit with twisting some planks in the stern area, particularly those that fold under the stern counter and with the lower garboard plank(s) which twists toward the stern post area. There are some excellent YouTube videos, showing this method on Jason's Modelkit Stuff YouTube channel. The Sherbourne kit is scheduled for delivery tomorrow (4th December 2024) morning and the shipyard is ready and waiting for the new arrival. My next my major project will be the Harpy (Vanguard Models) which may arrive later in the week, but will probably arrive sometime next week, depending on when @chris watton receives the manual and plan sheets from the printers.

Hello Chris Is there any news on the Harpy? I think you were expecting the printed material this week.

Hello Paul I had not considered tubing which is an excellent suggestion. I could make a sleeve which may look a bit odd. Food for thought. THANKS

The damage was where the topgallant yard was pinned so not reallt possible to add a pin with repositioned the topgallant yard. I did consider a few different options.

MY FINAL BRIG ADDER BUILD LOG POST I had about another weeks work left to complete the Brig Adder as I only had the yard braces and lifts to rig. This would have tied in nicely with the expected release date for the Harpy, which is my next build project. Unfortunately when I started work on the Adder this afternoon I noted the fore topgallant mast had been damaged, I can only assume I knocked yesterday when I was adding one of the fore topsail yard jeers. After trying to repair the damage I ended up making matters far worse and realised that I would have to remove fore topgallant mast and all of its associated rigging. Once that was done I would then have to make a new topgallant mast and redo all the rigging. I know from experience, with the Indy, that this is not an easy repair. The most difficult aspects are trying to remove the damaged mast from the end cap and the shroud rigging that is belayed around the topsail deadeye strops. This is a photo of the damage. I have really enjoyed building the Brig Adder but my interest in model boats, as a hobby, is the building process and developing methods to make the building process easier. I was so pleased when someone bought my Indy as there is no room left in the house to display all of my completed models. At the moment I have two small Vanguard Models fishing boats on display on the living room. The Sphinx is on display in the dining room and both the Alert and Duchess of Kingston are on display in the conservatory. I have decided to stop work on the Adder; a) I do not have the space to display the Brig Adder when completed b) My next build (Harpy) is due to released in the next week or two which I will want to start immediately. c) I do struggle with some aspect of the rigging due to my poor close vision d) I may end up doing more damage when I try to remove the damaged mast and associated rigging Thank-you to everyone who has been following and commenting / liking my Brig Adder build log posts it is greatly appreciated. Many thanks also to @chris watton for designing and selling this amazing kit and I am sorry Chris that I have sadly failed to cross the finish line when I was so close to the end. I have already downloaded then Harpy manual so my free time will be spent reading the manual and checking out @James H excellent Harpy build log.

Good news with the Harpy as I am waiting like an expectant father for its arrival.🤣 I am very pleased that VM is growing and is testament to your philosophy with regards to providing high quality kits.

Build Log Index Date: 20/11/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 140 hours. Gaff Boom and Main / Fore Yard Jeers Adding the running rigging for the gaff boom was a bit more involved compared with the driver boom but not to taxing. With the gaff boom secured to the mast via the parrel beads all the other running rigging was installed and adjusted and belayed. I was happy with the result. I then secured the main and fore yards to their respective masts and added the jeer rigging.

Build Log Index Date: 19/11/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 136 hours. Driver Boom Running RIgging This was a mundane and simple task to complete. Step 1 The driver boom was added to the main mast as shown below. Step 2 The inter-block rigging, shown in the next photo was then added, but not belayed. Step 3 Next a length of thread was added to the end of the driver boom. Step 4 This thread was then reeved through a block on the main mast. Step 5 The first inter-block block was then belayed. Step 6 The thread from the end of the driver boom was then belayed to deck, via a double block arrangement, as shown below. Step 7 The final task was to add a second thread, as shown in the next two photos