Glenn-UK

I know the ships wheel is wrong way around. I will look at the skylight also. Thanks

Today I have been building and painting all the various hatches. Each hatch comprises a number of parts so there is a nice curve to each finished coaming. In the series of photos below everything has been placed on the deck but they have not been glued in place. I still need to build the hand pumps, capstan and bitts which is the planned task for tomorrow, however if the nice weather continues I may end up in the garden soaking up the sun as I did this afternoon. It is very crowded where the ships wheel, binnacle, skylight and aft companionway are located. I will paint the front edge of the companionway hatch black rather than the olive green as is at the moment.

Over the few days I have started work on adding all the deck item. Starting with the stern area I added the rudder housing and rear hatch. I opted to paint the rudder housing and outer framework of the rear hatch black. I used an olive green paint for the rear hatch cover. I have just noted there is some dried glue to remove on the top right side of the rudder housing. I still need to add the eyebolts to the gun port openings. I then turned my attention to the bow area and added the fore platform assembly which I painted flat red. I also assembled all the Harpy's ladders, 6 off in total. The two ladders for the fore platform have been added. Next I assembled both the companion hatch and skylight. The companion hatch cover was painted olive green, the basic frame work was painted black and the decorative patterns were painted flat red. The skylight framework was painted black and the window panels were painted flat red. The PE window frames were chemically blackened. In the following photos these assemblies have only placed on the deck and I will glue all the deck items in place once I have completed the assembly phase of all the various deck items. The companion hatch ladder has been fitted however. I have started to assemble the ship wheel. My current plan is to paint the wooden parts black and the ships wheel (which has been sprayed with a primer) a wood colour. The following photo shows my initial dry fit of the various ship wheel parts. The dowel will need to be trimmed to the required length.

A little bit more progress over the last few days. The chess trees have been fitted, one per side. Next two side fenders per side and the ships steps were added. I should have spent a bit more time cleaning the char for the step edges, so I will need to tidy that up. Next I attended to the stern area and added the two stern davits. Various cleats were added to the transom, noting I still need to add the eyebolts around the gun port openings. To finish of this post I did a bit of work around the bow.

A little bit more progress over the last couple of days. I have added the gunwales, timberheads and the sheer rails. I opted to paint the sheer rails flat red. On reflection I wish I had painted the upper rail flat red also rather than black. I have also added the woo and stern side counter timbers. Here is a photo of the hull prior to fitting the stern side counter timbers. A couple of photos of the bow area. The next photo shows the woo pattern. As can be seen in the next two photos now the stern side counter patterns have been fitted, I will need to add a little bit of wood filler to the right hand-hand side and I will need to adjust the bottom edge of the left-hand side so it follows the line of the wale.

Many thanks @SaltyScot

The failure of the copper plating task did knock my confidence and dented my enthusiasm with this hobby. That said I have now moved on to tasks which I tend to enjoy so my enthusiasm is returning. The first task I undertook was to add the belaying pin racks and carronade eyebolts. The next task was to add the outer transom pattern which was clamped in place. Once the clamps were removed the transom looked Ok but there were a couple of areas which required so further attention, as can be seen in the photo below (yellow arrows) The top area weas sanded smooth and then some wood filler was added along the lower edge. Once the wood filler was then painted black. The stem post was then painted black above the waterline. The bowsprit bitt assembly was painted flat red. The leading gunwale parts and catheads were painted black. I forgot to add the cleats to the catheads when they were assembled. Finally the leading gunwales and catheads were added to the hull. The bowsprit bitt and bowsprit dowel were dry fitted in the following photos.

Hello Bob It remains a mystery.

After many trials and tribulations I have finally ended up with a simulated coppered hull. After cleaning and sanding the hull after my failed copper plating attempt I painted the hull below the wales white. Next I painted the area between the wale and waterline yellow ochre. Remembering I had made a copper plating template I printed out the template on to some stiff card, and then noted that Richard did something similar with his Harpy build. Next I cut the template into strips which where then glued to the hull using Titebond wood glue. I then sprayed the hull with some copper paint. Whilst it is not a perfect solution it does give an impression of copper plated hull. With all the masking tape removed the hull does not look too bad and is OK for my needs. I still need to attend to painting the stem post, which I will probably use black paint.

Congratulations Bob, a fantastic model, well done.

I did think about a white lower section but I also quite like the look of red oxide which I used on of the small Vanguard fishing boats. My other option is to spray paint it copper as I did with the Indy.

It was a shame as I was so close finishing the plating. But I was wasting days of effort and getting nowhere so felt it was the right call for me.

After another day of copper plates not adhering to the hull I finally took the decision to remove all the copper plates. With the exception of a few copper plates they fell off with a quick flick of a craft knife blade and only took approx. 15 minutes to complete. A big pile of used copper plates. I probably have enough spare copper plates to redo however as I have not got to the root of the problem I have decided to paint the hull. After sanding the hull to remove all traces of any excess ca glue I brushed on some white paint which highlighted a few areas which need some attention. I brushed on some brushed diluted water filler where necessary, as can be seen in the next photo. In the final photo the hull has been sanded smooth and I am happy with how it looks so I can now tape up the hull and start painting. My current thinking is I will use red oxide below the waterline then to have a thin black band for the waterline and to paint the section between the waterline and wales either yellow ochre or white.

Hello Bob. I have tried two types of ca, the issue seems to be the hull as the copper plates do adhere to other surfaces.

Hello Maurice I did clean the back of the plates. I am bemused. Cheers Glenn

Thanks. I have tried painting and WOP. This morning I have cleaned the area and applied a new WOP coat and have been able to add a few more copper plates, but some still refuse to stick.🤨

Copper plating the second side of the Harpy has been progressing well, in between my wife's post operative hospital visits, and I reached a stage where there was only 1 or 2 more days work left to complete, as can be seen below. However I have hit major a problem in that the copper plates, when glued in place are simply not adhering to the hull. I have tried a few different things to try to overcome this problem without any luck. The problem is definitely with the surface of the bow section of the hull which is not allowing the ca glue to react, adhere and cure. Clearly I need to resolve this issue but I have no idea what to do for the best as I have already tried several things, such as: a) adding a new WOP coat. b) adding a paint layer c) sanding d) brushing water on hull As can be seen below I have had several failed attempts at adding more copper plates to the hull. Unless I can find a solution I feel I might have to resort to painting the lower section of the hull. This will mean I will have to remove all the copper plates. At the moment I feel this will be lesser of the two evils.

Copper plating the other side of the hull continues, I have made reasonably good progress today and feel the end is in sight in the next few days. I will be adding a 1mm square batten to neaten up the copper plating along the waterline. For the most part I have made a better job of this side of the hull. I will need to redo the copper plates fitted up to the waterline, as can be seen in the photo below. The copper plates will be buffed cleaned. I will need to revisit on small area, as indicated by the yellow arrow as for some unknown reason I had a senior moment. I also need to replace the upper most right hand copper plate .

Thanks Mark

Today I completed the copper plating on one side of the hull. I will add a 1mm square batten along the top of the cooper plates to neaten of the edges. I did a test fit of the rudder assembly. I will need to trim the rudder copper plate sheet to match the hull lines. The following is an insight in to how I went about fitting the copper plates along the water line. A copper plate is offered up to the hull and the pencil mark is made where it meets the waterline. Next I draw a line between the pencil marks. The copper plate is then cut to size, using my guillotine. The next copper plate is marked up and test fitted against its adjacent copper plate. When I am happy with how they look they are glued in place.

More progress on the copper plating task. I just have to add the infill plates up to the waterline on the first side, as can be seen in the photos attached below. Once that is done I will repeat the plating process (and hopefully I will make a slightly better job) on the other side of the hull. I am using cotton buds, dipped in acetone, to clean the copper plates once they are been positioned. Thankfully there is no sign of any ca glue of the plates that have been fitted so far.

Looking good

Dropped my wife off at the hospital this morning, we were told she was last on the list and I was not permitted to stay with her. This meant I was free to return to the shipyard. I think my mind must have been elsewhere when I decided to be clever with shaping the copper plates and ended up making a right mess. I ended up ripping off many of the plates and redoing again. Looks a bit better second time around. Using the copper plate pick-up tool it is a relatively quick and easy task to fit each plate. The hard work will be when I have to shape the plates along the waterline, which will be my last task. My coppering skills are not great but they look alright to my naked eye. I am making some minor adjustments, when necessary, so each layer is offset by half a plate width.

I have managed a couple of hours in the shipyard this morning. My first task was to copper plate the stern post areas up to the waterline. As the copper plating continues I sometimes need to shape the copper plates, as shown below. More shaping is required for the copper plates which follow the waterline. Progress is slow but steady. I am not sure when I will be able to get back in the shipyard. I might be able to sneak the odd few minutes during the week, but in all probability my next visit will sometime over the coming weekend or early next week. The following photo is the current build status.

I managed a quick and unplanned 40 minute visit to the shipyard this afternoon and made a start with adding the copper plates. I started the process by printing out a plating template so that I could decide where to trim the stern post edge plates. As can be seen in the photo I covered the first 8 layers and I drew a few lines before deciding where to make the angles cut. The copper plate was then cut to shape using the template as a guide. After a few trial fits I was happy to proceed and as can be seen I have added a few copper plates to both sides. I am using the same method detailed by @Blue Ensign in his excellent Harpy build log and so far it is working very well. Using the pick-up tool each copper plate is picked up. Tackey wax is used to hold the copper plate to the tool, as can be seen in the photo below. Using a cocktail stick a thin layer of ca glue is spread evenly over the base of the copper plate and it is then placed on the hull. A cotton bud dipped in acetone is then used to clean the copper plate.