Glenn-UK
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When assembling the stand for the Cutter Alert I managed snap some of the support brackets 😪 as I was trying to slot the parts together. I was gutted but thankfully I had enough unbroken bits to make a usable stand. As can be seen in the following photo both name plate brackets are beyond repair as it one of the long support strips and are therefore deemed to be missing in action. I also received the waterline marker I ordered from Vanguard Models at lunchtime today.😀 I will be honest I was not overly impressed with the quality of the materials of the waterline marker as a couple of parts suffered a bit of delamination which was an easy fix with some watered down pva. I also had to file some of the slots in order for the parts to fit together. I did change my mind on the tool however as I did find the tool easy to use when adding the waterline to the hull. After I marked the waterline I applied tape to the hull in readiness for the painting. I decided to use the Plasti-kote 3100SE Super Matt White Spray paint. I have now given the hull a light spray coat of white paint which is now drying. Once dry It will be a case of more sanding and filling (where necessary). I will then spray another light coat of white paint which will be followed with more sanding (600 to 800 grit) and light spray painting until I have an overall smooth white finish.
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A nice package arrived just now. This is my next task after lunch. Thanks Chris
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Today I have started the process of sanding the hull. After the initial sanding all over (using 320 grit) I was pleased with how the hull looked. I will need to complete the hull sanding processes with a finer grit (600 or 800 grit) at a later stage. Before I do this as the hull is to be painted white (below the water line) it is very important to fill in any dips to get a nice smooth paint finish. My first step in this regard is to fill any areas which are clearly visible to the naked eye. To do this I used my Gimour TPK-PT014 (a cheaper version of the standard Dremel) on some left over planks to collect some sawdust. I then mixed some of the sawdust with a diluted pva solution in order to create a wood filler paste. The following photo shows the remnants of a paste mix and the brush used to apply the paste. I apply plenty of the wood filler paste to the dips. It does not look to pretty (as can be seen in the photo below) but once the paste has dried it can be sanded smooth and any remaining dips can filled with more past. The whole hull coated with areas coated with sawdust wood filler paste I will post some more photos of the sanded hull to show the end result in the next day or two. Once I happy with how the hull looks to the naked eye I will spray a thin coat of white primer paint (below the water line) which will highlight possible imperfections which are not visible to the naked eye. These imperfections will be sanded smooth or filled as necessary. I will probably use a diluted Ronseal wood filler /pva mix when I get to this stage to fill any remaining dips. Hopefully the Vanguard Models waterline marker I have ordered will arrive in the next day or two 🤞😀 as I do not really like the Amati waterline I currently use.
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I have had a good day in the shipyard today and I finally completed the 2nd planking. The 2nd planking has been trimmed around the stern area. I then applied a thin diluted coat of pva over the hull and gave it a light sanding in order for some of the sawdust to fill any gaps between the planks. The hull will require more a bit more sanding (and filling where necessary) before I can move on to the next phase of the build. Here are some pictures.
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Very excited about The Sphinx it looks amazing. Fingers crossed for a July release date.
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I have continued on with the 2nd planking and I expect to complete this task within the next 2 or 3 days time. I do have an Amati water line marker but I have never been happy with it as I have found that the pencil tends changes position when I attempt to add a waterline mark. I have therefore ordered the waterline marker from Vanguard Models (new tools section) which I hope will be better, fingers crossed it will arrive in time. I have been using my quad hands to add the lateral (side) bend to the planks. One advantage of using the quad hands for side plank bending is they can be stacked up so multiple planks can be bent at the same time. In the picture below I have a left and right side plank being bent after a quick 5 second dip in water. With regards to adding the second planks I have continued to use a combination of Titebond original and map pins. Initially, when working in both directions (up and down), I was adding 4 planks at a time (2 port and 2 starboard). However once I reached the waterline mark (at the bow), which is where the up and down planking met I moved on to just adding 2 planks at a time (one per side). It takes around 5 to 10 minutes to shape, bend and chamfer the planks. Once they are glued I normally leave them for around 30 mins before removing the map pins and moving on to adding the next plank pair. The following set of pictures shows the current state of play. The holes left by the map pins can be seen, but will be covered up when the next layer of planking is added. A small amount of filler is required below the water line where some planks meet the stem post. Before I was adding the lower stern planks I sanded the depth of the plank to try to get a smooth line with the keel and stern post. It may not look like that in the picture, but is pretty much the case as it stands.
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Ordering one first thing in morning and will hope for a Speedy delivery😀😀
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I'm not a big fan of my Amati waterline marker. I will need to add the water line to Cutter Alert in the next few days. I am very tempted to buy the one you have for sale.
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Thanks John It should be an interesting build, and once have completed the 2nd planking (which I am taking my time with) I should be able to crack on much quicker. I will keep up with a detailed build log of my methods. You might also enjoy my build log for the Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) which I completed earlier this month.
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Hi Derek Last time I used ca glue for planking I ended up sticking more planks to my fingers than the hull.🤣🤣 I really like the Titebond Original. I normally put a small amount in a dish, enough pva for one plank usually. I use an old paint brush to apply the glue. It grabs very quickly which I really like.
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Work is still slow and steady with the 2nd planking. At the moment I am using Titebond original pva for the second planking which are held in place with map pins. The method I am using is much more time consuming than the more common method of using ca glue (or ca gel) To start the process the planks are shaped as necessary. Next I chamfer the edge so it is a nice fit to the plank it adjoins. Once I am happy with how the plank looks I mark (on the back) the area to be bent. The planks are then soaked in water for around 5 minutes and bent using a heated plank bending tool and then pinned in place. I usually leave the planks pinned for around 30 mins. Each plank is then given a coat of Titebond original and pinned in place a various points along the length of the planks. The map pins are normally removed after about 30 mins. 4 wet planks pinned in position Wet planks pinned in position The end result The next planking strip will cover up the map pin holes.
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I have made a slow start to the 2nd planking. I have added the first four strakes at the top. These planks fitted without any need to taper. I did chamfer the top edge of the bottom three of these strakes. I am taking my time to ensure that these planks look good and will require the minimal amount of sanding for a nice smooth finish. I am expecting that I will need to start tapering with the next strake. I will also side bend the strakes, if necessary to ensure they are a nice flat fit. I have also fitted the first two strakes at the keel. I am reasonably happy with how these strakes are looking. Once again I am taking my time to ensure the strakes look good when fitted. I will continue to add the strakes in both directions for the time being. Bow area Midships Stern area
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Great idea. Order placed for one of the tools as I always need new tools. 🤣
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Hello Theo. I am being more selective with the planks I am using above the waterline. I am not so bothered with the quality below the waterline as these will be sanded smooth and painted white. Progess is slow with regards to the 2nd planking but I hope to add some pictures of my progress in the next day or two. I am working from the top down and from the keel upward at the moment.
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I got the idea from my Yamato build (model space) which included a set of hull templates (as a pdf file) which I printed out on to card.
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Thanks Derek This is, by far, my best planking attempt.
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Today I have sanded the 1st planking on the hull. I am now happy with how it is looking. I took my time to reduce the planking thickness around the stern area so the 2nd planking can be added and will align with the keel and stern post. I was able to utilise the sheets that the bulkheads were removed from as templates to double check the shaping of the hull around the bow area. This proved to be useful as I did note a couple of high and low spots which I was able to correct. I then moved on to adding the stern planking which sits below the stern counter pattern Stern counter planks fitted but not trimmed After trimming To complete the days activities I fitted the stern counter pattern. With the pattern dry fitted I marked and removed the excess material form the sides. I then added a chamfer to the lower edge so there would be a nice clean join with the lower stern counter planking. The two top 4mm planks have been soaked and bent in to place using clamps. It will now be left overnight to dry before they are glued in place. I did use the spacers provided with the kit to set the start point of the top plank from the stem post. I will be ready to start the 2nd planking phase in the morning.
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I have now completed the first planking and the hull is ready for sanding and filling. With regards to the filling (where necessary) I plan to use a mix made up of diluated pva (50/50) and Ronseal natural wood filler (a Jim Hatch concoction from his Sphinx build log). I found this mixture (made up of 50% pva and 50% wood filler) worked really well when I added a bit to an over faired section of a bulkhead. The following pictures of the planked hull may look a bit rough and ready and I could have done it better. However this is just a base layer for the 2nd planking. Once it has been sanded smooth (and filled where necessary) it will be fit for purpose. I opted not to bend the garboard plank as shown in other build logs. I have used the same method as my previous builds and provides the necessary base for the 2nd planking. I will probably use the same method with the 2nd planking as the planking will not be visible (below the waterline) once it has been sanded smooth and painted white. This is a view of the bow section, there are a few very small gaps to be filled This is the view of the stern. I have trimmed the excess plank material from the ends but it still needs some more work to get flush so the stern post can sit flush. Midships When fitting the plank next to the keel I did chamfer the edge to get a good fit. In the picture below I used a small piece of planking material to experiment with the chamfer. The test chamfer plank looks OK This shows the actual plank fitted with a chamfered edge.
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I have now glued the first three planks to the hull. They all went on without any problems. I used Titebond Original pva. I used clamps to hold the first two planks in place as the glue gripped. I used a mixture of clamps and pins went gluing the 3rd plank in place. I am reasonably happy with how the planks are looking so far. I have also bent and tapered (only required tapering at the bow end) the 4th plank. I have clamped the damp planks to the hull as I have now finished working on the model for the day so the planks should hold the shape when they have dried out. I intend to add a few more planks over the next few days. I will then add a garboard plank and start to plank upwards as well as downwards. In the following picture the first three planks have been glued and the 4th plank is clamped in place. The next picture show the bow area. A picture of the midship area Finally a picture of the stern area
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Sorry to bore you all with my continued start to the first planking. Before committing to the glue phase I decided to test fit the third plank on both sides. After adding the lateral (side) bend I noted the 3rd plank would need a taper around the bow section. Once I had marked, tapered and had the second bow shaping bend both the port and starboard 3rd planks were clamped in place to check the fit. The port side looks really good. The same is now true on the starboard side. The slight issue I had with the starboard side bowing at bulkhead 3 has now been resolved. The front on view of the bow section also looks good. The planks will be correctly positioned, when glued, to ensure they are tight up to the stem post as there is no rabbet slot for the third plank. I have also checked the main mast and it located through the deck hole in to the bulkhead slot very nicely. Finally this top view shows how the planking follows the shape of the deck, especially around the bow section. I am now very happy with how the planks look so I will now start to glue them in place forthwith.
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Thanks and enjoy
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Hello James She is looking really good. Your painting skills are excellent. Regards Glenn
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Following on from my last post I spent a bit more time this afternoon fairing the bow (bulkhead 2). I then bent the first two planks for both the port and starboard sides. I started with the lateral (side bend) and then added the bend that followed shape around the bow. I then clamped both sets of planks to the hull. As can be seen in the photo below the port side planking is a perfect fit This is a close up of the port side bow area. The planks are a nice tight fit (only dry fitted) This picture shows the port side inner bulwarks are nice and flush. When looking at the starboard side the problem with bulkhead 2 has now been fully resolved however I did notice a slight issue with the fitting around bulkhead 3. I will need to fair bulkhead 3 a tad more before gluing them in place. This picture (which is slightly out of focus) shows the slight bulge at bulkhead 3 (starboard side). This picture shows the starboard side inner bulwarks, as can seen the lower plank is not flush with the upper plank around bulkhead 3. The time and effort I have spent fairing and test fitting the first two planks for this build has really paid dividends. In the past I would have probably gone ahead and glued the planks in place and then either sanded or used wood filler to correct the problems.
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