Glenn-UK

Looks good, great work.

Hello Glenn (USA). I am not too worried about structural integrity for the 2nd planking. I certainly would be staggering the joints if they were visible or load bearing. The joints were not visible on my v1 build after sanding and painting.

These butt's are all below the waterline. The hull will be painted white below the waterline so the butt joints will not be visible.

I have finally completed the 2nd planking on the right-hand side of my V2 build. I have approx. 10 planks left to fit on the left-hand side to complete this stage of the build, which should take me 3 or 4 days to complete. I have added a few photo's of the completed right-hand side. After completing the planking I did use a damp paint brush to clean up the surface, hence the blotchy nature of the hull in the ensuing photos. This is a close up of the bow area. Overall not too bad, but it will need sanding and filling to get a nice smooth surface for the painted area below the waterline. Close up of the stern area, this will require a lot more work to get smooth compared with the bow area. The next picture shows the midship plank joints, below the waterline.

I am still making slow and steady progress with the second planking. As per my previous posts I am using Titebond Original to glue the planks to the hull which are then held in place with map pins. I have been working top to bottom, however I have also fitted three planks to the keel (garboard). Close up of bow area. The stern is looking much better than first feared after a very light sand but this area will still require a lot more work. I have made a series of measurements regarding the number of planks require to fill the gap at various points. At the widest point requires 10 planks and at the bow it require 6 planks to fill the unplanked area. 6 planks x 4mm = 24mm therefore each plank needs to be 2.4mm wide at the bow. I made a template plank which shows the require plank widths at different points which can be transferred to each plank in turn. I have found it beneficial to clamp the ruler (which provides the straight edge cutting line) on top of the plank to be cut.

@chris watton many thanks for you input and very sound advice. I agree there will be a lot of time and effort required to sort out the planking issues.

I have concluded that, despite all by best efforts, I am still not very good at planking. It is not a task I relish and look forward to undertaking but is one I am striving to get better at. I have read and watched several videos on the art of planking and feel I should have the tools and know how to be much better at it. That said, compared with previous builds, my 2nd planking on the V2 Sphinx is much improved. I am currently using Titebond original to secure these planks to the hull which are held in place with map pins whilst the glue has time to grip and cure. I have used ca glue in the past which is much better for speed but I usually end up with glue on my fingers and on unwanted areas of the build. Also using wood glue gives me more time to adjust the planks and means I have to take my time. The first photo shows my progress to date. After fitting 3 full planks (above the water line, noting the manual only requires 2 full planks) I am now fitting half planks. The bow planks are being held in the rabbet which really helps when I adding the map pins, the holes left by the map pins can be seen in the photo below, which is of the right-hand side. This is the bow left-hand side A view down the right-hand side bow to stern I am still not very good at fitting the planks around the stern. It may look a mess but compare to previous builds this is a marked improvement. More map pin holes can also be seen. I am a bit concerned about the position of the top edge of the low stern counter pattern. I will cross that bridge when it is time to fit the upper stern counter pattern. A view looking of the left hand side from stern to bow Another view of the left-hand side

After soaking the lower outer bow pattern in hot water for 30 mins it was clamped to the hull and left for 18 hours to dry. I did use some map pins to hold the lower edge in place. I also ensured there was room in the rabbet for the lower pattern to be inserted. Once I was happy with how the upper and lower outer patterns would fit it was time to apply the glue. I brushed a coat of titebond original on the hull and clamped the upper bow outer patterns in place. Once the glue had gripped the pattern I repeated the process for the upper stern pattern. This was then repeated again for the lower bow and stern outer patterns. This is a photo of the right hand bow section, noting the lower pattern is held on the rabbet. Midships where the bow and stern patterns meet. Not a perfect match but pretty close. The stern

Nice work, as always

It goes against my nature to be be slow and steady but also but I know through experience taking ones time is the right way to go.

Progress is going to be slow for the next couple of days as I soak, bend and allow time for the upper and lower outer patterns to dry before fitting. After soaking the top upper patterns in hot water for 30 minutes they were carefully clamped to the hull and they will be left for approx. 18 hours to fully dry out. Before I glue these patterns in place I will soak, bend, clamp and allow time for the lower outer patterns to dry out. This will ensure that when I glue these patterns to the hull I can confident everything is correctly aligned. The picture below shows the right-hand side upper outer pattern clamped to the hull. The next photo is a view from the left-hand side. You will note I used a map pin to hold the bottom edge of the left hand upper outer pattern in place. I also clamped the stern upper and lower patterns in place to double check if there were any alignment issues. Everything looked good. In the next photo you will see I have added the stern post outer patterns. I did ensure the 1st planking terminated before the stern post and keel which should ensure the 2nd planking will be flush with the stern post and keel. When looking at the photo I have highlighted an area which looks wrong. The actual model looks fine and the highlighted area which seems to stick out is an optical illusion, related with the lower stern counter.

Once the outer patterns have been fitted I will start the second planking. The lower counter pattern is correctly positioned (I think) this time around so I think all is good.

I have started to add the outer patterns. Starting with the prow patterns after a dry fit to make sure the parts would fit OK I applied a liberal coat of glue to the stem post with the two locating tabs also added to the stem post. The two outer prow patterns were then fitted. In addition to using the two locating tabs I also check the patterns were aligned by running some brass pins through the horseshoe holes. The prow patterns were then held in place using a few clamps. The above process was then repeated for the keel outer patterns, plenty of clamps used. The Alert, IJN Yamato and Speedy can be seen in the background The V1 Sphinx build is also looking on with great interest.

I have spent some time sanding the hull smooth after completing the first planking. I am pleased with how the first planking turned out and did not require a great deal of sanding. I also added a solution made up of wood filler, mixed with glue and water to fill some gaps and depressions. I then added the lower stern counter. After soaking the pattern in hot water for 30 minutes the pattern was taped to a tin of custard and left to dry overnight. This resulted in a nicely bent lower counter which was glued into place. I did check that it was correctly positioned after it was glued in place. I was not totally happy with the position when I checked with the upper counter pattern and stern fascia held in place so I carefully removed the lower pattern and readjusted the position. I was happy with the position 2nd time around. I then added a filler / glue mix to fill the gap between the planking and lower stern counter. I have just noticed it is a tad off centre Next I fitted the prow pattern. The lower keel pattern was then glued in place. Finally the stern post was glued in place. Next up will be to add the outer patterns to the prow, keel and stern. Progress is slow at the moment but I feel I am making a much better job of this build compared with my V1 build.

It has been a while since my last post. I have been working on finishing the 1st planking which is now complete. My completed planking is not great but it is much improved compared to my 1st planking on my previous models. Of course as this is only a base for the 2nd planking the standard of the 1st planking is not a big issue once hull has been sanded smooth. Picture of right-hand bow, now ready to be sanded smooth Picture of left-hand bow, now ready to be sanded smooth Picture of left-hand side, now ready to be sanded smooth Picture of right-hand side, now ready to be sanded smooth The stern does not look pretty, but will be Ok once sanded smooth. You will note I stopped the planks short of the stern edge so they can be tapered to allow the 2nd planking to sit flush with the stern post and keel.

Great news

Progress has been slow over the last few days as we have a little chaos merchant staying with us for a few day, our 13 month old granddaughter. I have been able to make some progress with the build and I have now completed the 1st planking in the band 1 area. For the most part it has gone reasonably well, and is without doubt my best attempt at the 1st planking a model. I started tapering the planks after the first 3 planks had been fitted. The stern area does not look brilliant and will require a couple of small filler pieces. The right side is much better The midships is looking good and should not require too much sanding or filler The bow area is looking good (on the left hand side). Again should not require too much sanding or filler to get a nice smooth finish. I have been fitting planks in pairs, left and right and although this will be covered by the 2nd planking it is quite symmetrical. As can been seen I managed to damage a plank on the right hand bow area. I could remove /repair the damage plank and replace with a small replacement piece, but I will probably just use some filler to correct as the 2nd planking will cover up the damaged area The right side looks better midships to stern

That is the plan, based on 7 planks per band I am aiming for around 17.5mm to 21mm at the stem post. It will be a case of trial and error before I decide on banding.

I have made a start on the first planking today. I took my time with fitting each plank. The first task was to add a chamfer to the top edge of each plank. With the plank held in position I marked the start of the curve required for the bow section. I used my planking bending tool to create the required shape. Next I trimmed the edge of the plank so it was a nice fit at the stem post. With the plank held in place I marked the position of each bulkhead on the plank, and also the bottom edge of the plank on the bulkhead. Next I applied some titebond original to the bulkheads (up to the midpoint) and pinned the plank in place. I then added glue from the mid point to the stern and pinned the plank to the bulkheads. The first plank have been fitted to both the right and left hand side The next row of planks have been fitted. There is a slight issue with the upper pattern just below gun port 1 where it is a bit proud. I have a plan to resolve this issue without the need to fill using wood filler. The third row of planks have now been fitted, no tapers required so far.

Thanks, still baffled how I missed it when I first fitted them.

I am much happier this time around than I was after my first attempt. Should be able to start the 1st planking now.

Attempt two at fitting the upper side patterns has gone much better. @DelF I have not used all my clamps as I had 20 unused clamps, but I still used quite a few. The bow looks much better, the left hand pattern is perhaps a tad high, but I'm happy with how it looks. The MDF part (sitting proud) can be trimmed. It looks worse on the photo. The left hand pattern is correctly aligned with all the gun ports this time around. Gun port alignment on the left hand side.

Great advice. I have marked the position and done another trial fit. The left hand pattern has now been glued in place. I have done a few visual checks and everything looks good so far. Rather than starting midships and clamping fore and aft this time I started at the bow and worked my way back.

Thanks, I do feel better now both patterns have been removed without any damage to the hull or patterns.

I started sorting through the 1mm x 650mm by 5mm 1st planking strips this morning, 24 were measured at greater than 1mm thick, 19 were measured at being between 0.9 and 0.99mm thick and the remaining 6 were between 0.8 and 0.89mm thick and 1 measured 0.75mm thick. I also have 11 x 1m x 5mm planking strips from my stock of materials which are greater than 1mm thick. I can plank the hull starting with the either the 0.8 to 0.89mm group (or the > 1mm group) and then move to the 0.9 and 0.99mm group and finally using the remaining group. Next I removed all the clamps from the upper patterns. It turns out I made a really mess of fitting the upper patterns. It is clear I did not pay as much detail to fitting the patterns as I thought I had. The right hand pattern look good at the midships which is where I started with the the glue and clamping process. It looks Ok at the stern also, maybe a fraction low at the last gun port opening but that could just be the camera angle Now take a look at the bow. I have no idea how I managed to misalign the pattern. I was convinced I had checked and checked again as the patterns were being clamped, but clearly this was not the case. I do remember releasing the clamps and around the bow at one point as I needed to readjust the position of a couple of them. I assume this is where the error occured. It is not a good look. I then took a closer look at the left hand pattern I noticed it would need shifting both vertically (around the bow) and laterally as a small edge of the right hand edge of the vertical gun port patterns were visible. In the past I would have lived with this error and attempt to cover up the mistake my trimming the gun ports and top edge of the upper patterns. Armed with a jug of warm water, a paint brush and craft knife I decided I should try to remove the upper patterns and start over again. Starting at the bow end I brush copious amount of water into the glued joints and then very gently eased the upper pattern away from the hull using the craft knife blade to break the glue seal. In what seemed like an eternity, but was probably about 15 minutes the left hand upper pattern was successfully removed and no damage done. I repeated the process for the right hand pattern up to the the midships. When test refitting the the released pattern end it would run true and align around the bow area as designed. That said it is probably going to be much better to remove the right hand pattern. Once the hull has dried out it will require a light sand to remove any remains of the old glue before both patterns can be reattached.