rybakov

The stuff does look good, John!  Thanks for the reference.
 
The lower-finishing pieces are now ready for prime and paint:

I have yet to make the waste pipe rosettes that mount to the aft overhang of these pieces, but I will tackle that shortly.
 
Today was a very productive day spent trimming out the next level up - the functional seats of ease.
 
The first order of business was to clear away the wales and let the forward edge of this section into the wales, as neatly as possible.  My goal was not to disrupt any of the paint that will remain visible, as the touch-ups were such a pain:

The pre-shaping on the scrap hull created a good mating joint:

I am quite satisfied with the subtle outward, billowing shape of the piece.
 
One thing that dawned on me, here, is that the aft end of this section should follow the round-up of the stern.
 
The picture, above, reflects this, however - before, the back ends were square to the mating surface, which created a weird back-angled appearance, considering that the ship sides taper inwards, at the stern, like a wedge.  This is one of many small details that are not immediately apparent, if one hasn’t first made a full set of drawings.
 
One benefit of altering this profile into the roundup is that it enabled me to bring the side profile of the stern counter into more of a vertical plane.  The difference is slight, but an improvement, nonetheless.
 
A montage of the paneling process:



There is no substitute for the gradual process of arriving at a line; draw, erase, repeat!








I still need to add the rail pieces, between the pilasters, which will create the sunken panel effect.  I also have to cast a series of fleurs for these panels, but this has been a very satisfying step in the project.
 
Thank you for the likes, your comments, and for looking in!
 
 

Little step:







 

Good morning and thanks to everyone, more photos....
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Un Saluto.

Good morning.

Hello,
 
now the Rudder is ready. Because there was no protest or other solutions, I build it the way I think it is right. At least it's not an unknown praxis.
 

 
 
 

Ruder2.mov  

Perhaps this(not very clear) view of Lisbon around 1500/1510 will help in having a better idea of the look of those ships
 
https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:Lisboa_1500-1510.jpg
 
hope that helps
 
Zeh

At the moment I am dealing with the ratlines of the foremast. The first picture shows a section of the shrouds of the main mast.

 

Hello and many thanks for your comments and likes
 
the last week I was not very busy at the shipyard but I got the tiller and most of it's components finished. The sweep, flush with the beams, as the 1719 establishment asked for.
 

 
And here all parts are together, and it works! 😅 I don't think to build also the ledges here, most of this you would't see when the ship is ready.
 

 

 

 

 
So far, so good but how to get the ropes up? The wheels are behind the mizzen mast, so I should have the sheaves direkt behind the beam. In the middle of the beam is a carling and I could build between this and the next carlings to the outside diagonal carlings with the sheaves in the middle (blue line), or build like the French there a block with the sheaves and support it with the carling. At least is this the same as at the side of the ship. I don't know, but prefer the last method.
 

 

Perhaps this(not very clear) view of Lisbon around 1500/1510 will help in having a better idea of the look of those ships
 
https://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ficheiro:Lisboa_1500-1510.jpg
 
hope that helps
 
Zeh

Presentation of the build, I would say, is as much important as the construction of the build. One of the things to do is to take sometimes to take photos. There are some basics rules to follow by examples when taking photos inside the model the photo must be well horizontally.  When taking photos, I try to take photos at the height of the human eye at the scale, this provide a more natural photos look. By contrast, photos taken too high do not look as well. This morning, I tried another series of photos.

Seems like forever since my last post. After completing the starboard side bulwark planking and spirketting I painted everything red.
 
To prep for the paint work each gun port was sealed on both sides with thin pieces of soft foam cut from weather sealing, typically bundled with window air conditioners. I figured that if I did both sides of each port that it would remove any chance of paint over spray messing things up. Cutting the foam pieces goes quickly with a #26 X-ACTO blade. The most time consuming part was the taping of deck clamps, etc. Once done, the painting goes quickly. I mixed W&N Crimson and Burnt Umber in a ratio of 10 to 1 respectively. I applied 10 thinned brushed coats followed by 7 or 8 spray coats.
 
There was no way of knowing how it would all turn out until all the foam and tape was finally removed. Luckily everything was clean with no touch up needed.
 

 

 
Mike
 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/196-hms-bellona-1760-by-sjsoane-scale-164-english-74-gun-as-designed/page/65/
 
We talked about this subject in  Mark logs and I also tried to think about this subject in a previous post.
The French practice was probably similar. The simplest solutions are often the best solutions.
Also, near the capstan, the tenon had a hinge, something like a door hinge of that time at the top of it.
Again, here is the photo of Giorgio who did a nice representation to show how these tenons were lifted.
 
On the previous photos, I did only the mortice in the top deck beam and nothing on the deck. The problem with this representation, it is more difficult to align vertically the tenon. Having a slot in the deck facilitates the positioning of the tenon. Also, the ramped tenon eliminate the need to use a jack.

Ok Mark, I erased them!
 
2020 objectives, first deck completed, and still 1 1/2 month to go.
This model is more oriented on carpentry, so no cannons will be install.
 
Parts for the first deck are glued.
As usual, 1 coat of tung oil us applied. On the previous models, I tried 2 and 3 coats, and I prefer the 1 coat application, just enough to accentuation the wood grain. At the opposite, too much tung oil will create a transparent thickness, a varnish look, and I do not want this effect.
 
Most of the photos are done with small camera Yi  4K.

Thank you, Jonathan!
 
After sealing with plain old brush-able Crazy Glue, I sanded smooth with 320, and then transferred the patterns for the inset panels.
 
When Dan gave me this wood, he told me he thought it might be apple, but that it had been sitting around so long, he had lost track of what it was, or why he had bought it.  I was impressed with the stuff because the grain was absolutely clear and even, and the stock had remained perfectly flat and straight for over a decade without any special handling.
 
Although I had never worked apple before this, I have to say that I think this wood might be some other species.  I was expecting “apple” to work with roughly the same density and hardness of cherry, for example.
 
This material is nothing like that.  It shapes beautifully, and easily, but it is fairly soft and a little thready; strands of grain can pull away from the surface, fairly easily, if you are not careful, and if your tools aren’t razor sharp.  While I thought my knives were sharp, they were crushing/compressing the grain, as I tried to carve the beveled border.  So, I sharpened my knives.
 
Here is a montage of the lower finishing as it has come into focus:



Now, I made a mistake, here, in the placement of the bellflower ornament.  I placed it according to how I thought it was framed best by the central stile.
 
However, that’s not what was drawn.  Notice how the scrolls meet in the middle, above the bellflower:

I should have placed the bellflower a little lower, in order to accommodate this detail.  A little finagling later, though, and I found that I like this alternative layout just as well.  Grinding away and remaking the bellflower, on such a fragile substrate, did not seem worth the risk of ruining all of the work done so far.
 
Here are a few more detail images that show just what a difference a little modeling makes, once the outline of the carvings is clearly defined:


Obviously, there is still some work to do on these.  I’ve been much busier than usual, so progress has been slower.
 
I have continued to assemble the starboard side amortisement.  Everything from the canopy and above went down smoothly enough.  I’ll have to do a few minor putty fills.
 
What I found really fascinating was the space available below the canopy, where the two false windows go; the space between the upper main wale and the canopy is a full 1/8” bigger on the starboard side than on the port side!

Now, for the port side, I did fill above the windows with a 1/32” square shim, and I didn’t even bother to fill above the dolphin ornaments because I got lazy and figured that the viewing perspective wouldn’t ever reveal that gap, anyway.  On the starboard side, though, this is an additional 1/8” gap.
 
Up until now, I have encountered a number of these  dimensional anomalies of the kit.  In certain instances, while unaware, my modifications have probably exacerbated these differences.  In this instance, though, it is a difference that exists and must be dealt with.
 
I think it is likely the case that when this kit was prototyped in the 1970’s, by hand, there likely was not the high degree of symmetry that computer modeling offers us, today.  As a result, the model was made to fit together and had visual symmetry, if not actual symmetry.  This is just something to keep in mind, for anyone contemplating a similar modification project.

There is no way that I was about to re-draw and re-make the windows and dolphins.  I am a field carpenter, after all, and being such requires one to just make things work, visually.
 
A few things are certain: the windows must meet the upper main wale, so that necessitated filling that space, above, with a tapered wedge of styrene.  I also wanted the added framing pieces, beneath the dolphins to match what I had done on the port side.
 
Toward that end, I started with the forward dolphins.  I coped them into the mermaid’s tail.  I had to trim a solid 1/32” off the aft straight edge of both dolphin carvings, so that they’d fit between the mermaid’s tails. I then filled above the forward dolphin so that the space beneath these dolphins would match that of the port side.  Here it all is in pictures:



I still need to fill in those lower framing pieces, but I think that, overall, I managed to mask those differences well enough.  One can only look at one side of the ship at a time, in any case😉
 
Well, steady as she goes.  I’ve cleared the space on the hull where the active seats of ease are located.  Soon, I’ll scribe in the wales, so that I can fit those pieces and then I can clad them with all of the styrene rails, stiles and ornaments.
 
After struggling mightily to paint the bowsprit, on the model, I will certainly paint these QG sections off the model and install, afterwards.
 
As ever, thanks for the likes and for looking in!

Good morning.

Starting the carving......
 

 
 


And.... let see the final result with the capital included......
 

I could not hold the temptation to see it beside the ship....
 

 
 
 

Now the oars for the “really” helmsmen.  According with the pictures in documents they were six..... And also There are different versions about it.... some pictures put he oarsmen stand some seated...... I went with the stand version
 
Also they have some differences in the blade form.....Take a look
 
 

 

 
Here some pictures....
 

Quick update, the hull is fully planked! Just applied the clear coat and now waiting for the ship to dry. In the meanwhile I can give the shipyard a much needed cleaning. Now to start working on details, furniture, trim and decorations. I will add some better pictures once she is dry and I can move her to a better lit area. 





 

 
 

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Before mounting the cannons and equipment on the second gun deck,
deck beams fitted on the upper deck (Gaillards ?) .
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

The ratelines for the futtock shrouds of the mizzen mast are completed.
 
Furthermore I mounted a single block next to each trestle tree. These are used for the topping lifts of the mizzen boom. 
Soon I will continue with the ratlines of the foremast.

Hello,
 
today the carpenters build the step for the bowsprit and the manger. The painter painted it afterwards. I think, he has to wait until the paint dries to get out there 😁
The next thing would be to build the cabins for the gunner and his neighbour in the back of the ship.
 

 

 

photo 1 : post experiences; if the height of the post: - is finely adjusted, it is easy to install
                                                                                        - is too high, it needs great forces to install
 
Now, if we translate to the ship, I believe the same principles applies, for the height of the post. We often see metal rods at the each end of the post because this is an easy way to install on a model. I do not believe that this can apply in a full scale model. So, for today, my solution is to carefully adjust each post. No notches on the deck, but 1 under the beam. At full scale, a sledge hammer would be enough. All this is pure speculation, As usual, I do not know the answer, I just try to find the good angle of the problem.
 
photo 2: location of the posts; not at at the back because of the rudder assembly, not at the front because of the anchor cables, instead there is a beam to support some deck beams. In the middle, 2 sections with posts1 or 2 posts in some area, and few others: 3.
 
As usual, nothing is fix yet and the posts are still to be shaped. For now, only the height is fixed.

The futtock shrouds were meanwhile attached to the shrouds of the mizzen mast.
I have already started with the fixing of the ratlines.

 

Title: "The Complete Modellist Shewing the True and Exact Way of Raising the Model of Any Ship Or Vessel, Small Or Great, Either in Proportion, Or Out of Proportion ... Performed by Thomas Miller"
 
1667 ship building.pdf
 
I hadn't seen this before.
BTW, this is my 1000th post. Thank you, MSW, and all who sail in her.
Bruce

Hello,
and many thanks for your likes.
 
Today the carpenters where extremely busy. They build all the beams who are made from one peace of wood.
 

 
This ship is smaller and has lower decks. Here you can see the beams are only 5f 11,5in above the deck.