Juan Carlos

how did you get such clean low areas? (dont know the proper name)

if the application of oil was recent and it did not penetrate too deep into the wood, it might work. if not, then you will have to try a mechanical way, like staples, pins, nails, etc. just try. nothing to lose there.

augie is right. you can use talcum or corn starch. the powder will help absorb the oil. might work. worth a try.

thin ca works by capillary action. you put the parts together, then apply the glue. thick, or gap filling, or gel ca, you put the glue on the parts, then join them. the problem with thin ca is that the capillary action is not limited to the joint, it will spread around the area. that is ok if you plan to use paint, but might be a problem if you plan on using stains because it will seal the wood fiber. one trick used in rc airplanes is to use ca when you need a strong area for bolts. drill a hole in the wood, then put thin ca in it. that will make that area very stong. then you can screw in a bolt or drive a pin in using epoxy or more ca. it will be harder for the part to be pulled out under tension. to summarize: both kind of glues have their uses, advantages and flaws. learn them and you will be fine. but, if i had to use only 1 kind of glue, it will be wood glue, no doubts about it. pva (wood glue) is slow, but only sticks good to wood. ca will stick to everything. one example: you are planking your hull, one you plan on staining. you put the plank in place, put some clamps to hold the part in place and then use thin ca on the joints. in a couple of minutes you remove the clamps to go to the other side. if ca gets under the clamp, will have to wrestle that clamp free, probably pulling a few fibers of wood out with the clamp. then, when you sand, the area with ca will probably finish up higher than the soft wood not touched by the ca. then, when you stain, the results will not be that even on the areas where the ca spread. this will happen with thin ca. do not throw your ca away. it has its uses. it also has a limited life, so do not buy the big bottles for rc uses.

i prefer wood glue. i use it if i have to use clamps or need time for position. i use ca when planking the hull. use it in spot areas in combination with wood glue. that will hold the plank in place while the wood glue dries. excess wood glue is easier to clean. ca is not. joints done with wood glue are easier to sand than joints done with ca. ca is a lot harder. i build rc airplanes and crash them quite often (thats why im building ships now). i noticed that after a crash, wood glue joints failed very little compared to ca joints. when do i use wood glue? if i can glue a part that wont move out of position or need clamping. Ca to help the wood glue to keep the part in place and for spot repairs if i cant use wood glue. for rigging, i use diluted white glue. use ca to make a portion of a line hard as a needle to make it easier to pass thru blocks. use ca to glue 2 different materials together. wood glue is for wood to wood joints only.

did it by eye using a board with a grove to hold the square stock. turned out very nice. maybe not perfect, but very nice. it gives the illusion i was looking for. thanks to all. next time i will try the nut trick. it sounds interesting.

thank you Druxey! will try that!

ok. found the template for 7-10-7 proportions on page 8 of the document ¨Planking Tutorial DRAFT r6.pdf ¨, located in the building, framing, planking section of the forum. its pinned under the name Planking instruction/tutorial by jack nastyface here the link: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/353-planking-instructiontutorial-by-jack-nastyface/

i will copy and use this idea!

tried to mark the yards for the 7-10-7 or the 2-3-2 proportions but i could not do it on a 5 mm wide square stock. i guess i will try it by eye. will know how well calibrated are my eyeballs. is that how you do it Garward? judging by eye and experience? any tips are wellcome..

Thank you Jim!!!! i remember seeing a template somewhere with a fan shape or something like that for the 2-3-2 proportions. can anybody here give me the link to get there?

got it. 2-3-2 = 7 . so it ends up 2 units from the outer edges in and that leaves 3 units at the center! haw! thank you for showing me the light!!!!!

aahhh! thank you!!!! 2/7th from the edge of the square stock in(towards the center) ? i can do that. but then, why is it called 2-3-2?

looking in the download section of the site, i found the article ¨Making a mast (or spars) from square stock¨ i need to make an octagon portion of a yard but i dont understand the 2-3-2 thing i saw in the article. can anybody here explain that to me? point me to where to find a chart, template, or any other tool to help me here? i remember reading about that some time ago, but now that i want to do the yards i realize i am lost. thanks for the help!

it would be wise to drill a couple of holes on the big jar lid, outside the lid of the small jar to avoid pressure to build up

during my build i noticed that issue about the gunports. i decided to plank the deck, build one cannon, put it in place on the deck and using the cannon as a reference, i built the gunport frame. i did that for every gunport.

I post this for people with experience to give some feedback. I found that sometimes i could get the spiled part on my first try and sometimes i had to try more than once. I think I discovered why. When you put the clear tape with its edge parallel to the edge of the planking line you will get the correct curve of the plank. But, if you put the tape at an angle to allow it to lay flat and pretty, you wont get the correct curvature. you will either have to adjust a lot with sandpaper or repeat the process. The edge of the tape away from the planks should be a little ¨loose¨ when you put it on the hull. If that edge is tight, or straight, you wont get the curvature you are looking for. Can anybody confirm this?

i am working on the MS Rattlesnake. i had the same problems with the plans vs the real parts. i just adjusted as close as i could but did not try to be perfect. i think that after the model is done, a few mm here or there wont be important as long as the overall product is pleasing to the eye. right now im planking the hull and so far, ok. i did buy some 4¨x 24¨x1/16¨ basswood boards so i could do some spilling. i also bought square stock at home depot for the masts so i could get the octagonal parts done. shaped them using my hand drill and sandpaper. so far im happy. im taking my time and building slow. have to be in the mood for building!

back to the old printer thing. just make sure you remove all ink and/or toner cartidges. why not trying to open them up? they are going to the trash can and you can find a lot of stuff, even the screws you can use, motors, belts, shafts and such. open 2 toner printers and you might have enough loot to make your ropewalk or serving machine. remember to remove the toner cartridge first!

i soak basswood for about 5-10 minutes. then bend using the side of a cheap soldering iron. fast and easy.

next time you see a printer in the trash can, pick it up! open it up and you will find a lot of gears and shafts that you can use to build a ropewalk or serving machine.

i used the dowel in the drill chuck trick and it worked very well. then i used square stock and it worked too. the wood gets hot. i did not use gloves because the heat made me stop and check the work more frequently.