rvchima

I was away for a couple of weeks and didn't look in on your build. Your planking is perfect and the WOP is just beautiful on the pear wood. Congratulations on a marvelous job. If dampening the damaged area does not fix the problem, try touching the dampened area with a hot clothes or bending iron. Try it on some scrap first.

Thank you to everyone for the kind comments on my build. It was a challenge but also a pleasure to build such a fine kit, and always fun to share the work with people who appreciate it. Rod

FINISHED - 441 Hours, 165 Days Since my last posts I finished and attached the ships boats, anchors, lanterns, and some stub masts. I knew from the start that this would be a hull-only model. I simply don't have room in my house for another large model. @chris watton at Vanguard Models has produced an absolutely beautiful model in the Sphinx. The materials are all excellent, the laser-cut parts all fit perfectly, and the photo-etched parts make detailing the model easy. (Well, relatively easy.) The kit uses some unconventional parts. I had my doubts about the photo-etched eyebolts and the MDF anchors, but in the end they look perfect. I do think the ship's wheel and the floors of the ship's boats would be better done in wood, but again they look fine. My finished Sphinx is so photogenic that I hired a professional photographer to take photos of her. Many thanks to Leea at Asheville Headshots for her beautiful photos. Here they are.

The Boats Don't Quite Fit The fit of the ship's boats has always been a bit "iffy," but after I added the wales to the their sides they were just too close for comfort. And so, deconstruction. I moved the two outer boat racks each about 2 mm outwards, and now everything fits comfortably.

That is a beautiful model Walter. Congratulations on a job well done.

Ship's Boats The ship's boats comprise a 28' pinnace, a 24' launch, and a 22' yawl. Can someone out there please tell me the difference between the three? Is it the size, intended function, crew size, rigging, or something else? I finally acquired Lavery's excellent book, Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600 - 1815, and read the long section on ship's boats with great interest. But there was so much detail that I still don't understand the basic distinction. But that didn't stop me from barging ahead with construction. The boats are built over MDF bulkheads. They are single-planked with thin pear strips. This one has been sanded and filled with acrylic filler. Here's what they look like off the base. Then you twist the bulkheads off with pliers. VERY scary, but no damage. Sanding the inside is not fun. The interior gets fitted with thin ribs. I used Tamiya tape to set the spacing between the ribs. OK, full disclosure. The manual recommends using PVA wood glue for planking instead of CA, so of course I used CA on the first one. It went together OK, but after I filled the exterior and removed it from the bulkheads a lot of joints opened up. I got nervous and painted the interior with PVA. Big mistake - now the ribs would not stick to the interior with CA, so I had to use PVA on them, which increased construction time a lot. On the next two boats I used PVA on the edges of the planks and dots of CA on the bulkheads to act like pins. That's how I planked the main hull, and it worked very well on the boats as well. Here are the three boats temporarily in their cradles on deck. Now I have to find a way to make the PE floor boards look like wood. That's a mystery to me, why Chris decided to make all these wood parts out of PE, when they could easily be laser cut from thin pear wood and stained to match. It won't keep out water. I hope that it will keep out paint.

End of Hull Construction - For Now The boomkins, seats of ease, and hammock cranes are all complete. Here are a few photos. Boomkins and 2 seats of ease for 140 sailors. The manual says to skip the aft hammock cranes for now because they will interfere with rigging the shrouds. The manual never gets back to them, and most other builders omitted them as well. I won't be rigging shrouds so I built them.

I had never heard of crows' feet rigging but saw it on a model of HMS Resolution in Anchorage, Alaska. I went on to build a model of HMS Endeavour just so I could rig crows' feet, and yes, I liked it a lot too. Beautiful work on yours!

Proxxon Sander (my favorite tool for removing laser char) Ever wonder what's inside a Proxxon oscillating sander? Well mine started running erratically and making funny noises a few days ago, and it's only 7-8 years old! Can you believe it? So I took it apart (typical engineer). There's a switch, small permanent magnet motor, fan, eccentric, a big, heavy weight, and a plastic arm that oscillates the head back and forth. I cleaned everything out using my airbrush as a blower, added a drop of oil on each side of the motor and some graphite on the other parts. It should be good for another 8 years.

Boat Beams The manual says that if the rear beam hits the chain pump handle you can cut a little notch in the beam. Mine hit way too much for that so I gave it a good twist. It would never go around but no one will be able to tell. The handles definitely should be smaller.

Thanks Chris. I tried to paint the wheel to look like wood and left the PE rims and hubs blackened. A better wood color would have helped.

Upper Decks, Railings, Cathead, Binnacle, and Drumhead Capstan The fore and aft upper decks and railings are all complete. The aft deck took a little shaping but the forward deck dropped right into place. As before, I stained the decks with Minwax Golden Oak. The belfry, stove chimney, and some belaying pin racks are also done. The stanchions for the quarterdeck railings are flat and need to be sanded round. I chucked them in a rotary tool and hit them with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and taped to a stick. Here's a view of that railing with the drum head capstan behind it and some more ladders nearby. A lot of parts in this kit are PE brass that are typically cast metal or wood in other kits - eyebolts, belaying pins, etc. I had my doubts about them at first, but frankly they look just fine. However the ship's wheel is three pieces of PE glued up and it looks pretty flat. I considered buying a better wheel but would have had to resize the drum to make it fit, so I stuck with the PE. The binnacle is very nice. Catheads - from the manual: "The holes in the bulwark are deliberately left smaller than required for alignment and part integrity when assembling. You will now need to open these up to fit the catheads. Use small files and a sharp blade to open these up to size." Easier said than done. I spent a couple of hours on each side filing those slots to within a hair of the railing and deck before those pieces would fit.

I agree with everyone - your planking is perfect, too nice to paint. I used my electric plank bender the other day to fit one inner bulwark, and wouldn't you know it, I burned a finger pretty bad. I like to tease my son about all his football (soccer) injuries and now he's giving me grief about yet another model making injury.

That is a beautiful model Walter. It makes me want to start another (but maybe no cannons!)

Forecastle Beams Installed My quarterdeck beams all ended up about 2mm too long and had to be trimmed on each end to fit. I did build the hull with the recommended jigs in place so I don't know why the parts were off. The forecastle beams dropped into place perfectly. I really hate to cover this all up.