Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rvchima

  • Birthday 05/12/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Asheville, North Carolina, USA
  • Interests
    rubber-powered model aircraft
    model ships
    stained glass

Recent Profile Visitors

966 profile views
  1. My wife writes young adult fantasy novels. Her next book features Viking witches, so I just had to build a Viking ship. This was a quick, 2 month build for me. There are several excellent build logs for this kit and similar kits by Dusek and Amati, so I didn't bother with a build log. I made a huge beginner's mistake in building the hull before staining the pieces, so every little spot of CA shows through the stain. I know better but did it anyway. I touched all of those spots with a brown marker but they still show. That does make the hull look a little old and battered in a crude
  2. Matt, Thank you for the information about attaching the rudder. After a lot of searching online I found this photo of the rudder for the Ottar Viking ship replica in Roskilde, Denmark. It looks like you got the attachment right. I just attached my rudder and ran into the same problem that you did - once the deck is planked there is no way to attach the rudder pivot rope inside. I simply folded the rope in half, pushed it into the pivot button, and put a small nail through the button from the side to catch the rope. The third small line on your rudder would b
  3. Hi Matt, Congratulations on a beautiful model! Did you really complete it in less than 2 months, or was that just when you posted to your log? I am building the Billings Osberg kit and your log has been a big help to me. I have really been puzzling over the attachment of the rudder. Everything I've seen shows a leather strap around the top, which would allow the rudder to turn, but a pin through the blade and hull which would prevent it from turning. You used a rope between the blade and hull, which makes sense. Did the Amati instructions show that or did you find anoth
  4. Jack, I don't know if you're still out there, but I just wanted to thank you for your awesome build log on the Billings Oseberg Viking Ship. I am just starting on the same, and have gone through your log completely and taken notes on everything that I will need to address. You said that you built your model for The Admiral. My wife writes young adult fantasy novels (search for Cinda Chima on Amazon). Her next book is about Viking witches, so she definitely needs a Viking longboat. The book won't be out for a year so I have plenty of time. Thanks again for all the w
  5. Fun with Photoshop Aerial view of the Prinz Eugen. Those red markings are just screaming to the Luftwaffe, "I'm German. Don't bomb me!" Dazzle camouflage in the fog. Which way is he going?
  6. Q: What's Black and White and Red All Over? A: The Prinz Eugen in it's 1941 Baltic Camouflage! My Prinz Eugen model is complete! I've been very busy since my last post. Here's what I've done. Finished and attached all 8 ship's boats. Attached all the superstructure components. Attached dozens of smaller plastic components. Built some custom vents that go around the B turret, and found and attached a ship's bell. Rigged miles of antenna wires with EZ line. Here are some photos of the completed model. You can
  7. I am truly amazed - I had no idea that kits like this existed. Your meticulous work is just perfect, and it's only taken 14 months so far. I'll follow along to see the finished model.
  8. Toy Boats The Prinz Eugen carried 8 small boats on board, and the Aeronaut kit had ready-made plastic models of each. In fact my kit had 9 boats, but I think that one was a mistake. You should always wash plastic parts before painting to clean off any residual mold release. I think I'll just play with the boats like this for a while. So far I have completely ignored the ships boats. When I looked at the plans I found that 6 of them were on racks on deck 2, right where my railings were. So time to construct some racks and deconstruct some railings.
  9. Railings The Aeronaut kit came with 14 pieces of prefab railings, each 250 mm long. I knew that would not be enough but I wasn't sure how much I would need, so I avoided using it for miscellaneous railings. The 14 pieces circled the 1st deck completely and finished the second deck with inches to spare. One deck to go. A couple of stores in England sell the prefab railings but I was in a hurry, so I made my own using the brass stanchions and music wire included in the kit. I decided to use a shorter double railing on the 3rd deck, so I cut the 3-hole stanchions down a notch and sanded them
  10. Dazzling I bit the bullet and painted the dazzle camouflage. It took a full day to mask and paint each of the diagonal stripes. I stacked all the components with 3-M double-sided tape to hold them in alignment. I made a skinny pencil by gluing a bit of pencil lead in a 1mm brass tube. Then I used a thin ruler and my skinny pencil to mark the diagonal. Very difficult to keep the pencil perpendicular to the ruler as it stepped over each layer of the superstructure. Lots of Tamiya masking tape and several hours later I was ready to paint each stripe - by hand. I also painte
  11. Hi Yves, Welcome to the build log. It's a little short on detail but I wanted to get some information out there about the Aeronaut kits. And thank you for the the welcome to Asheville. Our son lives in Apex so I am very familiar with the Raleigh area. I am always interested in finding new shops, shows, or museums related to aircraft or ships. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Rod
  12. Oops, I Put the Platform on Backwards I've been standing the mast on top of the plans for a month and just realized that I installed the lower platform backwards. So how to fix it? I broke off 3 triangular gussets on the bottom, then gently twisted the platform until it broke loose. Cleaned up the glue, rotated the platform, glued everything back together, and touched up the paint. 15 minutes tops. And while I was fixing things I installed the rear anchor. Well, you can't see the anchor, but it's there.
  13. Catapult and Arado 196 Floatplane I spent a full day building the brass aircraft stand that comes with the Pontos detail kit. They actually give you enough parts to build 4 of them although you only need 1. Good thing because I screwed up 2 1/2 of them before I settled on this one. Then I built the catapult (from scratch) and the Arado 196 floatplane (came with the Aeronaut kit). Hey! what happened to my aircraft stand? The real catapult rail is about 15 m long and the catapult launch speed is 130 km/hr. I did some quick calculations that show that the
  14. Bob, 1. Put a coat of primer on everything. Sand and touch up as necessary. 2. Paint the white stripe at the waterline. When it's good and dry, mask it off with high quality modelers masking tape. I like the Tamiya brand. Rub the edges thoroughly with a toothpick, then paint both edges of the tape with white to seal it. 3. Mask off above the waterline and paint the green below. If you're very confident of your airbrush skills you could skip the masking part, but I wouldn't. 4. Mask off the green, remove the tape above the water line, and paint the black. 5. Say a littl
  • Create New...