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About rvchima

  • Birthday 05/12/1951

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chagrin Falls, Ohio
  • Interests
    rubber-powered model aircraft
    model ships
    stained glass

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  1. Case Completed I built a case for my Endeavour from scratch in about 3 weeks. It came out very nice and looks good next to my Syren model. They are temporarily displayed in a basement rec room. I don't know where they'll end up when we move. I forgot how hard it is to photograph anything in a plastic case. I tried all kinds of lighting and Photoshop tricks to get rid of reflections. The photo of the Endeavour alone is OK, but the photo of the two ships together is pretty bad. Oh well, I tried. Rod
  2. Case Construction Back in 2012 I designed and built a case for a Model Shipways Flying Fish that I built in 1969. I reused the design for my Syren a couple of years later and now again for the Endeavour. Here are the original drawings and calculations for the Syren case. The Endeavour case is exactly the same size but 2 inches shorter. They should look good together. The moldings were cut from 3/4 inch white oak. I cut 1/8" slots for plexiglass with my table saw, the larger rabbet in the base with a dado blade, and the profiled edges on my router table. I made most of the cuts while the wood was much wider to keep my fingers from the blades, then cut the pieces to the correct width at the end. Here are the finished molding pieces before sanding. I ordered 0.118 inch plexiglass cut to size from Tap Plastics in California. For the last two cases I bought large sheets from Home Depot and cut them myself with the scribe and break method. Tap Plastics was about the same cost and a whole lot easier. Today I mitered the top and bottom moldings with a chop saw. I taped everything together to make sure it all fit, then glued up the top frame and later the bottom frame (shown.) I may shoot some brads into the corners for a little extra strength. I will glue a veneered plywood panel into the bottom frame, and screw the Endeavour to it at the end. I will attach the top plexiglass with glazier's points. The side pieces will be held with 8 screws from the top and bottom. Everything can be disassembled by removing those screws. Final photos coming soon.
  3. Thank you all for the kind compliments on my model. I know that it is not completely historically accurate, but I am happy with it. I sincerely appreciate all the help and encouragement from my (few) followers. I really could not have done it without all your help. I'll keep watching for Dave Row to finish his beautiful model, and for Fernando to start his! May you both have fair winds and following seas. Rod
  4. Dave, I attached my shroud cleats as shown on the plans and they ended up below the rail. I didn't think much about it until I started belaying lines to them and they were out of reach for the sailors. Your shroud cleats look great. Keep up the beautiful work. I'm anxious to see you model finished. Rod
  5. Happy New Year Mates! The fireworks in Sydney, Melbourne, Darwin, and every other major city in Australia just look spectacular. I wish I could be there to see them in person. I worked for a small fireworks company while I was in grad school and still love a good show. Here in tiny Chagrin Falls, Ohio we celebrate by lowering a giant popcorn ball from the flagpole in the town square at midnight. I am not making this up. The popcorn shop has been in business in an old gristmill by the falls since 1948. It's not fireworks but it's still fun.
  6. HM Bark Endeavour - Finished! 1 year, 4 months, 10 days, 664 hours I put in a lot of hours since my last major post, and completed the model on Dec. 30. Here are some photos. Anchors Since July I've had the main anchors lashed to the channels. When I attached the second set of anchors I decided that the model would look better with the main anchors hanging. That's how they're displayed on my Syren. After a bit of deconstruction I hung them from the cathead. I like them much better this way. Anchor buoy lashed to the first shroud Fore and main masts Main and mizzen masts Rigging Problems The kit has two plans for running rigging. Plan 7 is mostly lifts and the plan 8 is mostly braces. I started with plan 7 and rigged all the lifts, working fore-to-aft. All of those lines belayed to many of the pins, eyes, and cleats shown on the deck plan. I tried to follow AOTS for attachment points. Then I opened plan 8 and started rigging the braces fore-to-aft. It turns out that plan 8 shows many lines belayed to the same points as plan 7, so I started using unused points nearby. By the time I got to the mizzen mast I had totally run out of deck eyes and mast cleats to belay to. There were line cleats attached to each of the mizzen shrouds, but they were totally unused on the plans. I ended up rigging some of the mizzen braces to those shrouds. They're probably incorrect but it was all I could do at that point. Please don't tell the admiral. Bow with jack Stern with Ensign Flag Problems I bought the jack, ensign, and commissioning pennant from Cornwall Model Boats. They are made by BECC in the UK and are perfectly sized and beautifully made, but he fabric material is very soft and hangs limply. I experimented with several products to make them hold a wavy shape - spray starch, white glue, and polyurethane spray. Nothing worked very well so I ended up washing everything out of the ensign and starting over. Luckily the paint is waterproof. I ended up putting a couple of coats of clear shellac on each flag, crumpling them up, and putting them aside to dry. Then I held them in front of my electric workshop heater and worked them into shape. Even the easy things are hard. Case I designed and built a case for an old Model Shipways Flying Fish a few years ago, and later scaled the design for my Syren. The Endeavour has nearly the same height and width as the Syren but is 2 inches shorter, so this rescale was easy. I have ordered five pieces of plexiglass cut to size for an Endeavour case and will start cutting wood today. It looks like my wife and I will be moving to Asheville, North Carolina soon, so I need to get this ship in a case before the move. Pictures to follow.
  7. Dave, Thank you very much for the booklet. It's beautiful on its own and should be a big help with the remaining construction. Rod
  8. Pat, I've been through the AOTS book many times now and completely overlooked the deck plan on pages 120-121, maybe because it's sandwiched between many pages of sail rigging. That plan will help a lot, but I'm afraid to look to see what I've done wrong already. At least the spiritsail yard brace pin 11 isn't used yet. Rod
  9. The Parrels of Ship Modeling I decided to go ahead and loft all my yards, with the mains on slings and all else on parrels as discussed earlier. I've been using the PE brass parrels supplied with the kit, painted wood color. They're a little thin but look pretty good. I'll get some pictures up soon. Anyway, when I got to the final yard (the mizzen top) I ran out of parrels. I don't have a 3-D printer like Dave Rowe or a milling machine like Pat Banyan, so I needed another clever way to make parrels. Here's what I came up with. I started with some styrene sheet left over from my Arleigh-Burke. It was exactly the same thickness as the PE brass parrels, 0.5 mm. I clamped it down with a straight edge 3 mm from the edge, and used a 3 mm gouge to cut a series of humps along the edge. The humps are a little hyperbolic. If I were to do this again I'd try sharpening a piece of brass tube to cut circular humps, but this looks OK. I used an X-acto knife to cut the gaps between the humps, and used dividers to mark holes exactly 4 mm apart in each pair. I drilled the holes with a Proxxon drill, and sliced off a strip of parrels when I was done. I painted the strip (and my fingers) wood color, sliced off the individual parrels with a chisel, and stacked them on 2 pins to touch up the ends. Ta da!
  10. All, I took a little road trip with my wife and just noticed that there were some new posts here. I do have Marquardt's AOTS, and while it is great for showing where lines are attached on the yards, etc., it doesn't really show where they belay to. Does Mr. Marquardt have another rigging plan that I am unaware of? Rod
  11. Pat, Thank you for the quick response! I was just sitting at the dining room table with my two rigging plans and colored pencils to try to see where everything goes, and now I have a more general question. Should the fore and main masts be rigged symmetrically? i.e., if a line from the fore yard goes to a cleat on fore shroud #1, should the corresponding line on the main yard go to the cleat on main shroud #1? It seems likely to me, but there are a couple of instances on my plans where the yards on the fore and main masts are rigged very differently.
  12. Spirit, Fore, and Main Yards Here are some photos of my progress on the yards, as promised. Spiritsail and spirit topsail yards are installed and mostly rigged. The Caldercraft kit did not include any reference to the netting or any material for the same. I thought that I might have a scrap left over from my Syren, but alas, none in my parts box. So I went to the local fabric store where I had to buy 1/4 yard of netting at the outrageous price of 28 cents ;^) The fore and main yards are lofted, and the foreyard is mostly rigged. It was really tricky getting the jeer blocks lashed in place. They hang freely from lashing around the mast that hangs on two little wood bumps attached to the mast. The blocks want to dance around and the lashing wants to fall off the blocks. I hung some spring clamps from the blocks to keep them pointed downwards, attached some electrical clamps to the jeer block ties to hold them at the right position, and put a pin into the mast at the top of the bump to keep the lashing above it. A picture would have helped but I was too frustrated to get the camera. Anyway I got them done. Here's where the fore leech and bunt lines are belayed. I'm still not sure where to belay the main lines.
  13. Running Rigging Question I am pretty much done with the spiritsail and spiritsail topsail, and have lofted the fore and mainsails. I promise to get some photos up later today or tomorrow. I rigged the leach and and bunt lines on the foresail but have run into some probable errors on the Caldercraft plans and need some advice on how to proceed. The deck plan shows where the lines attach. The foresail leach and bunt lines, 14, 15, and 16, (red, green, and blue) attach to the pin rail ahead of the winch. Seems reasonable to me. But the leech and bunt lines on the mainsail, 22, 23, and 24, appear to go forward and attach to exactly the same pins as the foresail lines. That does not seem right. I suspect that they should lead aft across the top, and then down to the bitt just abaft the mainsail. I mentioned previously that the plans did not show any belaying pins in the bitts. I did add some, but maybe not enough. If you've completed this step, please let me know what you did with these lines. Many thanks.
  14. I like what you did with the oar handles. The notches in the gallows make a lot of sense. I wish I'd thought of it. Rod
  15. Pat & Dashi, Thank you so much for the information. I was not aware of the books by Peterson or Steele. They look like excellent references that I should have been looking at all along. I attached the spirit yards and some of their rigging last week, but am currently visiting my son in North Carolina. Thus, no progress for awhile. Rod

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