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David Lester

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About David Lester

  • Birthday 10/01/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Cobourg, Ontario
  • Interests
    reading, woodworking, architecture

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767 profile views
  1. A little progress to report - I've finished attaching the lower deadeyes and chainplates which more or less finishes the hull. The boat davits and cutting in stage have to be added, but that will come a little later. I had previously made the bowsprit assembly, so have now installed it along with the dolphin striker. I'm not very comfortable making small brass components, but I managed to get an acceptable result for the fitting at the bottom of the dolphin striker. I've been working on shaping the masts and yards which are now all done and the enormity of the task of assembling them all is just now beginning to dawn on me. There is a lot more hardware on these spars than I have ever encountered in my previous models. I guess it's related to the time period of the ship. All my others are late18th century and this one is mid 19th century. The questions are (a)- how to attach it and (b) when is the best time to attach it. The three lower yards on the fore and main mast are attached with metal brackets, but how to attach them. On the real ship iron bands with flanges on the aft side wrapped around the yard and the bracket was attached with a pin. I guess the most correct way to attach these brackets on the model would be to wrap a small brass strip around the yard, bend the ends into flanges and drill a hole through them. I just know that there is no way I could do that in a neat and attractive way, so I am developing an alternative solution. I filed two grooves around the yard and will attach the bracket by threading wire through its holes and then wrapping it around the yard in the grooves so that the wire lays flush with the surface of the yard. Some glue will secure the wire in place and then I'll wrap a small strip of construction paper around the yard simulating the iron band. Then the whole thing gets painted white. Now I just have to figure out something similar for attaching it to the mast. There are dozens of eyebolts to go on these yards and I never know when to attach them. It's always easier to do on the bench before mounting the yard, but if a line has to be seized to the eyebolt later, that's hard to do after the yard is mounted. If I attach all the lines to the eyebolts before mounting the yard then I end up with a real mess of lines which always gets me into trouble. Perhaps the answer is to drill the holes and place the eyebolts without gluing, then after the yards are mounted, take them out one by one to seize the line to it and then glue it in place. I will ponder this some more over a cup of coffee. It's 3 o'clock which is my coffee time (even though I'm retired I take prescribed coffee breaks at 10 am and 3 pm as if I actually needed a break from anything - old habits sometimes really hang on.) David
  2. Hi Dave, That beech looks great - it does suggest oak, but the grain is more suited to the scale than that of actual oak would be. Is it nice to work with, I've never used it. David
  3. Thank you! I just replaced the switch and it's working perfectly. Yet another reason to love Model Ship World! David
  4. Good Morning, I'm hoping someone can help me with the following question (which only arises due to my own stupidity.) The switch on my Delta jointer failed and after quite a bit of difficult locating the right replacement one online, it has arrived. My problem is, I didn't pay enough attention when I removed the old one and now I don't recall how to connect the four wires to the new one. Oddly enough, I haven't been able to find the information online. There are 101 different versions of a rocker switch and I can't seem to find a diagram or Youtube video that applies to this particular switch except for one which was of no help because the first thing it advised was to take careful note of how the old one was connected! Here's a picture of the switch along with my two connection options. I believe that the bottom diagram is the correct way. If anyone can confirm that I would be most appreciative. Many thanks, David
  5. Hi Everyone, I've been working away on my Morgan (when not shoveling snow!) I'm working on the various hull details. With all models I know it's necessary to think several steps ahead but that's really the case with this one. I installed the anchor deck, but in order to do that the main stay has to be first located. In order to get the angle right, I needed to put the main mast in place to get the starting height of the stay and to located the holes in the anchor deck in the right spots. Then I started in on the hull details which is a very tricky endeavour. There are many components to be added along the length of the hull and it requires quite a bit of careful layout to get them more or less right. I've been marking the locations of davits and various other things with masking tape: I started with the canopy supports - I've made the roof, but it's not actually installed; I'll do that later. I'm currently working on the channels and chain plates and had to do some experimenting and have had a few false starts. The plans show one continues piece of wire wrapped around the deadeye at the top and forming an eye at the bottom. I found it difficult to make them look half decent and almost impossible to control their lengths. So, I wrapped the wire around the deadeye, soldered it and left the ends loose. Here they are in place just to gauge their length (they're still rough looking at this point and I scrapped a couple of them): I then cut them to length and soldered an eyebolt to the bottom end. This works very well as I can fine tune the length if need be by sliding the eyebolt up or down and resoldering it. Here's one after a little refinement that should look just fine when installed and painted flat black: I started with the mizzen channels as there are no other components to interfere with them and I'm still fine tuning them. The main and fore channels have to be fit around davits etc. so that's next on the agenda. Thanks again for looking in David
  6. Dumas has one: http://www.dumasproducts.com/product_info.php?cPath=136_59&products_id=1209 David
  7. Hi Jim, Have you tired Cornwall Model Boats? These look like they might do the trick. Cornwall Model Boats | Model Boat Fittings | Artesania Latina Fittings | Cannon Shot | AL8659 Cannon Shot 2mm (100) David
  8. I agree it's a terrible kit, but nevertheless it's a very beautiful ship and makes a handsome model when it's done as well as you've done it. Congratulations, and here's to improved health in 2019! David
  9. Thank you for dropping in, Gerald. It was in fact your build where I got the ideal of cutting the boats in half. I remembered the technique, but I'd forgotten where I'd seen it. I'm glad you reminded me. I also used your method for building the tryworks. I was tempted to just use acrylic paint, (which I can find easily here where I live), for the bricks. However, I took your advice and ordered some Humbrol enamel and it sounds as if I avoided a potential problem. Your build is nothing short of exquisite; I can only dream of producing such fine work. However I'm still having a lot fun. Thanks all for comments and likes. David
  10. Good Morning All I took a detour from working on the hull and have been spending the last month or so working on the seven boats. I have to say that they have driven me completely crazy. (Admittedly, it's an easy drive!) I don't recall which build log I saw it in, but there was a suggestion to glue up the boats, except for the bottom, then cut them in half lengthwise in order to make it easier to shape the interiors. I tried this and it works really well. After the interiors are shaped, just glue them back together and add the bottoms The plans show plenty of detail. On the one hand, the more the better, but on the other hand, if it can't be done half decently, better to leave it out. This took a bit of experimenting. It's a balancing act. For example, I simply couldn't manage to make the knees for the thwarts well enough, so I decided to let them go. It was a bit difficult to decipher what some of the detail shown in the plans was. I found it helpful to refer to download the instructions for the MS 1:16 whaleboat as well as John Fleming's build log for that model. Most of the finishing is wood, but I used styrene for the ribs, because 1/32 x 1/32 wood seemed just a bit over scale. Also I used card stock for the thwarts and lion's tongue. Working on the exteriors of the hulls is where it turned into a "Groundhog Day" type of experience for me and I thought I would never get out of the loop. It was a month long process of painting one component, waiting for it to dry, then painting the adjacent component, not being satisfied with the result, waiting for it to dry, repainting the first component, being reasonable satisfied, waiting for it to dry, touching the paint with glue on my finger, swearing, trying to scrap the glue off, ruining the paint job completely, swearing, using stripper to remove all the paint, then repeat and repeat and repeat. In the end I managed to get an acceptable result by cutting a piece of card stock to the size and shape of the coloured stripe along the hull and gluing it on. It gave a crisp edge along which to change paint colour. Thankfully, they are all now finished (apart from adding the rudders) and I can set them aside and return to the relative sanity of hull details. David
  11. Thank you very much guys! Very helpful, much appreciated. I'll check out the book The Whaleboat. It might be fun to build the MS whaleboat as a companion piece to the CWM. David
  12. Good Morning, A couple of questions about whaleboats. I'm working on the boats for my Charles W. Morgan. I believe the best position for the rudders is the "stowed" position, which the plans indicate as an option and it appears to me that there is a small amount of rigging employed to hold them in place. The plans are a bit sketchy on this detail. Can anyone direct me to a reference to see how best to do this? I'm having trouble finding a clear indication. Build logs that I have found for the CWM are not particularly clear in this area and I have looked at the instructions on line for the MS whaleboat, but there are not overly clear either. (Perhaps the plans for this kit might be.) The scale of course is the 1:64 of the CWM, not the 1:16 of the whaleboat kit, so it probably can't be 100% accurate, but I would like it to at least be leaning toward the accurate side of things. The other question is one of the equipment for the whaleboats. How much of the equipment (oars, harpoons, hooks etc) would have been in the boats while they are mounted on the davits? Most build logs show plenty of equipment, as does the photo that MS provides, but in reality, would any of it actually have been there? Maybe it was, but it was tied down? I don't know. I realize from a modeling perspective, I can do whatever I want, but I'm just curious what opinions are on where that equipment might actually have been when the boats were suspended from the davits. Many thanks, David
  13. Thanks for the kind comments everyone. Dave, I thought up the plumbers' tape idea for the hoops lying in bed one morning around 5 am. (I have a very exciting life😀.) Richvee - thank you very much for the idea of building up one whale boat before installing the davits. That's one thought that hadn't occurred to me lying in bed and I think it's a good one. See Hoss - You should keep the CWM on your wish list; it's a really great model kit. Scoot - Yeah, the plans are really pretty good; there's a ton of information on them, but it sure does take a great deal of scrutinizing to find it all. Thanks again, David
  14. Hello All: I've been working on a couple of different things: I couldn't seem to make the cast metal bilge pumps fit properly. There is a bracket on the handle which is supposed to attach to the fife rail. I couldn't see how to bend the handle to make that work without breaking it and/or creating a strange shape. So I made new ones from scratch and will use an small eyebolt to attach it at the fife rail. The picture below shows the supplied cast one and one of my new ones: (sorry, it's poorly focused) I wanted a change of pace from deck and hull details so decided to jump ahead to something completely out of sequence and turn my attention to the life hoops on the fore and main masts. There is very little reference to them in the plans and I've been unsure about how best to deal with them. So today, I've been experimenting and think I've come up with an acceptable approach. I found this picture in John's (Texxn5) build log and I hope he doesn't mind if I share it with you here: It appears that the hoops are wrapped with canvas. I know I could simply paint the hoops white, but I was wondering how to replicate the covered look and came up with the idea of using plumbers' thread sealing tape. I made the rings by wrapping some brass wire around a 5/16" dowel and then soldered them to a piece of brass strip which will wrap around the mast. I then wrapped the rings with the tape and I think it gives a pretty good result. I'll glue the assembly to the mast at a later time and paint the brass strip white along with the mast. So that's my diversion for today. I've been stalling on the hull details because there are so many different elements (5 sets of davits, supports for the roof structure, channels, etc.) all to be fitted in with little wiggle room and no room for error. The location of each seems to rely on the placement of something else and I can't seem to settle on a starting point. However I will have to before much longer. Thanks again for checking in, comments and likes. David

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