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David Lester

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About David Lester

  • Birthday 10/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cobourg, Ontario
  • Interests
    reading, woodworking, architecture

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  1. Great pictures! I'm definitely going with "dory buff" for my dories. g
  2. Thanks for the comments guys! Schooners - still one more bit to add to the machinery. There is a guard that goes over the big gear on the windlass. So I have that yet to do. Per - I like these deadeyes too. They're cast ones from BlueJacket and they're authentic in style to the ones on the Bluenose. I know many other builders have made this style themselves by bending wire in a loop on each side of the deadeye and attaching the chainplate directly to it with a pin, they even articulate when made this way. They're very cool, but I knew in my case "that way madness lies." So I opted for this alternative. But I have to be very careful with them. Too much bending and they can break off. Thanks again, David
  3. That's not a bad idea. I always struggle with whether a model should look "showroom" or weathered. I notice that railroad modelers always go for the weathered look, but ship modelers more often go for the pristine look. If you look at my previous post, maybe the effect you're talking about is more like the way I did the vent on the cabin. I painted it black and then applied a "watery" coat of aluminum paint. I did that because in the old black and white photos I have, the vent does not appear to have been black at all, but rather a metallic colour. I think I'll give that a try on these gears etc. Thanks for the idea! David
  4. Hello All, I little more work on the deck details. Here is the mechanism that operates the windlass. This is a little bit tricky, mainly because the cast parts are so poorly done. I like MS kits on the whole, but I have to say that these parts are not really very good. It's odd to me that a number of the gears are all molded on the axle as one piece. This would be ok, except for the fact that one gear is molded separately but needs to be located on the axle between two of the already molded in place gears. So, the piece needs to be cut. Probably for the best anyway. The axle is so small and fragile that it's easy to break it in any case. I ended up cutting off all of the gears and drilling holes through them and using brass rod as the axle. I was worried about the placement of all the components, but the trick was to start with the bowsprit and get it and its post correctly located, then simply work backwards from there. I used a piece of fine copper chain that I had for the chain drive and I built up the starboard side of the windlass with wooden pieces and the port side with small styrene strips. David
  5. They say that in life there are only two certainties - death and taxes. Well, I think there are four - death, taxes, you will get an email today from Model Expo and your fife rail will crumble at even the lightest touch. Obviously, I've been working on the deck details and for some reason, even though there aren't all that many, it's been slow going. I've all but finished them now except for the complicated bit of machinery that connects the motor to the windlass that looks like it was designed by Rube Goldberg. It may be simpler than it seems; I haven't quite given it my undivided attention yet. Apart from having to build the fife rail from scratch, the components have all been straightforward to build. The skylight in the old pictures was quite different from the one in the plans. Mine more closely matches the photos rather than the plans and I've use black rigging line for the bars. So, here's how I arrived at my painting scheme for the parts. I rely on the notes in the plans to a large degree and everything is indicated as being either "white" or "burnt umber." Burnt umber is a paint colour, so I took it to mean that it's painted dark brown, rather than left a natural finish. I'm pretty sure that the plans would have said "natural mahogany" or "douglas fir" or something like that if it was meant to be a natural finish. I have gathered together a number of old photos of the Bluenose and for the most part the plans are very consistent with the photos. In a couple of cases where there are discrepancies, I've opted for the paint scheme in the photos. I don't think it means the plans are wrong but rather that the details were painted slightly differently at different times. The dories were not difficult to build. The little framing system that the kit provides works very well. There are eight dories provided, but I think I will only use four of them - two stacks of two. They looked a bit odd to me stacked four high. Of course, it's only the top two that need to be finished inside. So, that's it for now as I try to figure out the conglomeration of gears etc that go together at the bow. Thanks for looking in! David
  6. Looks like a good start, Tim. It sounds like you're planning to plank the hull. I don't think you'll have too much trouble with that. On a "plank on bulkhead" model, I think the hard part is getting the hull faired correctly. Although I've never done one, I imagine on a solid hull model, getting the hull shape correct will also be the hard part. I also guess that planking a well shaped solid hull will be easier than planking a POB model. (Although a little harder to remove a plank, should that need arise.) If you look at Nic's Red Jacket build, you'll see that he uses quite a bit of filler when shaping the hull, so that's clearly part of the process. Does the kit come with wood to use as planking, or are you going to get some extra to do that. David
  7. John, have you found this website: www.charleswmorganmodel.com? It's primarily a build log, but what I found most helpful was the many excellent pictures of the actual ship. They're found under the "gallery" link. David
  8. Hi Gregory, Yes, I now believe it is a question of perspective. My picture of the stern is from a low angle and isn't straight on. I think that angle distorts the appearance of the curve. Even the picture of the Billing Victory is from an angle, so the same thing occurs. The pictures of the Caldercraft are straight on. I've since gone on line trying to find pictures of the stern that are straight on. They are few and far between, but I did find one. It's from a lower angle, so it doesn't match perfectly, but it's straight on and when I superimpose it over the Caldercraft profile, the curves nevertheless line up really well. So I think that answers my question. Thank you. David
  9. Your CWM is looking great. These old Marine Model kits look like they were fairly decent kits. From my (limited) knowledge of the CWM, I'd say this is a pretty accurate representation. I also think you've nailed the yellow colour of the bulwarks and other fittings perfectly. David
  10. So here's a question. I'm not ready to pull the trigger just yet, but neither can I shake the idea of a Victory model in my future and I've been looking at many builds of all the different kit manufacturers and have noticed differences in the shape of the stern. On the real ship, as it currently looks, the counter area of the stern has a very pronounced curve to it, like a bell curve. However, the models don't seem to all reflect this in the same way. It looks to me that in the Caldercraft kit, this curve is flattened somewhat: And I've noticed that on the Mamoli and Panart versions, it's flattened even more. It's almost dead straight across on the Mamoli. The Billing version, however does seem to capture the steeper curve of the actual ship - Are my eyes playing tricks on me? Is is just the different angles of the pictures? Or did the stern have slightly different profiles at different times and the various models reflect those different profiles? On the Mamoli version, which is virtually straight across, I suspect it's simply a matter of inaccuracy. But I would be interested to know about the Caldercraft version, because it does look slightly different to me than the real thing, and I'm curious to know why that might be. Can anyone shed any light on this question? Many thanks, David
  11. I'm looking forward to this build log. I believe it's the first Alfred on the forum, which is surprising because it's such a handsome model and interesting subject. It's on my shortlist for my next kit, but I'm a bit worried about tackling a solid hull. I'll be watching your progress with great interest. David
  12. I’ve started working on the dories for my Bluenose build, and I’ll include that in my build log. In the meantime I thought I might share a bit about another dory that I have. This one is painted yellow, which I understand is referred to as “dory buff.” I’m not sure what colour the dories on the Bluenose were. There is some rare colour footage of the Bluenose, but it’s very faded and difficult to make out the colours. In that footage the dories don’t appear to be buff, but it’s hard to say. The MS plans indicate “buff” so it might be safe to assume that they could have been this colour. In any case, here’s this dory. ” It’ about 16” long and it was scratch built by someone I used to work with named Fred. This started as a little hobby for Fred, but through a friend, he soon found himself supplying them to a gift shop in Vancouver BC. He had to bring that to a fairly quick end however, because he couldn’t keep up with the demand and making them became an onus, not a pleasure. So once he gave that up, he continued to make them upon request for friends and acquaintances. There are two interesting stories about Fred’s dories – He learned from someone who had been to the gift shop in Vancouver that the owner of the shop was telling people that they were made by “an old salt from Newfoundland.” Fred found this amusing because while he conceded that he was old there was certainly nothing salty about him. He was born and raised in Brandon, Manitoba which is on the Canadian prairie, just north of the North Dakota border. I guess it wouldn’t have been as effective to say “an old salt from the prairie.” Also, Fred had a unique source for the wood he used. We worked at a funeral home which was located not too far from a major casket manufacturer. We had a great relationship with them and Fred would make the occasional trip there and bring back all the free scrap lumber he could use. And I don’t know how he did it, but he even sweet-talked them into planing it down for him to the dimensions he needed! He always used either poplar or willow. Sadly, I haven’t had this useful connection for 20 years now, nor would I have had Fred’s ability to finagle custom planing in any case. David
  13. That's probably a good idea. The davits are a bit fragile and I broke more than one. However, make sure you know ahead of time exactly where they're going to go. They have to be spaced a precise distance apart to fit the length of the boats and if you're not very careful, you'll find, for example, that one needs to go exactly where one of the channels is! I cut strips of masking tape the same width as all the various components and stuck them on the hull and moved them about as necessary until I had placements that worked. If your hull is like mine there will be some minor variance from the plan in places.
  14. Coming along nicely. One word of warning - there is an incredible number of items to be added along the side of the hull - davits for the boats, standards for the roof etc etc. It's a bit of a challenge fitting them all in around the deadeyes etc. Be sure of your spacing before gluing anything on. If you just move from one end to the other, there will be some error creep. There will be a need for small adjustment as you go. Don't ask me how I know this! David
  15. One idea that can help is to first glue a piece of paper to the underside of the wood. Afterwords, you can either leave the paper there or scrape/sand it off. David

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