Jump to content

David Lester

Members
  • Content Count

    463
  • Joined

3 Followers

About David Lester

  • Birthday 10/01/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cobourg, Ontario
  • Interests
    reading, woodworking, architecture

Recent Profile Visitors

1,779 profile views
  1. Good Morning Everyone and Happy Friday, 13th! A little update on my Ontario progress - I've been spending a lot of time on the stern and it's coming along quite nicely. I'll have some pictures in the next post. Concurrently, I've been working on some other bits and pieces. I've assembled the cannons and carriages and they have all come together very nicely without problems of any kind. In the past I have sometimes found the carriages a bit tricky, getting the cannon to sit a the right angle, etc, but I've had no trouble with these ones at all. There are two di
  2. Paul, I built the bulwarks in sections off the model as well. For some reason it seems to be a good method for this particular model. David
  3. Don, It sounds like you got the same kit as I did, with the 3d stern pieces as standard and not any wooden ones. As I understand it, the kit is now produced with wooden parts for the transom and galleries as standard and the 3d parts are available to purchase separately. I don't know if the wooden parts are laser cut or to what degree the components have to be made, but I suspect at least part of them are laser cut, because Zoran told me that the photo etched windows will fit the wooden parts well, even though they don't fit the 3d parts very well. I'm not sure why the photo etched windows wou
  4. Thanks Bob! This was my favourite kit to do of all the ones I've done. I'm sure you'll enjoy doing it too. My CWM now resides at my son's house. Thanks again, David
  5. Don, I meant to mention something for your benefit in my last post, but forgot to. If you are thinking about getting this kit in the near future, I believe that Zoran is now packaging it with wooden components for the transom and galleries, rather than the 3d printed ones, which will still be available for purchase separately if you thought you wanted them. However, as beautiful as the 3d printed ones are, I would stick with the wooden ones. Because the resin ones are rigid and can't be altered, they are very unforgiving. This means you have to build the hull to them, rather than the other way
  6. Hello Everyone, I have been working away on various elements of this build, but I've been a little bit all over the map, so I don't have too much that's too concrete to show. I've finished planking the hull and I'm happy enough with the result (remembering that I'm a "wood filler and paint" kind of builder.) I have been in regular communication with Zoran at Maris Stella and he has been very helpful with some of the problems I've encountered. I'm really appreciative of his interest and help. I hesitate to show you any further pictures as th
  7. That's great - it's perfectly clear to me now. Thanks, David
  8. OK, I've got it now. Joe, your are right - they're the top gallant shrouds. It's just that the plans are so poorly drawn and components not identified that it's quite difficult to figure out what's what. You have to rely on your own knowledge and experience, (and of course, I seem to have to learn from scratch with each model! I even have to look up how to tie a clove hitch every time.) I may take your advice and substitute an eyebolt; I'll see how it goes when I get to that point. Allan - thank you - I'll check out Lees' Masting and Rigging. It may be well worth the investment. I
  9. Hi Allan, The difference between "version a" and "version b" is simply the way the deadeyes are attached to the mast top. Version a uses the photo etched part shown just to the right. Version b (which isn't shown here) omits it and uses a piece of wire instead. Both versions show both the deadeyes in front and the bullseyes behind. The only thing I can think of, without really knowing, is that instead of the deadeyes being rigged in pairs, each is rigged individually, with the shroud running up from the deadeye, wrapped around the mast and down again to the bullseye behind. I
  10. Have you tried Modellers' Workshop in Montreal? (www.modellers-workshop.com)? They carry it. It's not clear from the website if it's in stock or not, but worth a shot if you haven't tried them already. David
  11. I'm not anywhere near the rigging stage of my HMS Ontario, but I've been looking over the plans, trying to iron out the many, many questions that are arising. Here is the first of what I anticipate will be many. Maybe I'm revealing my ignorance by asking this, but I have not run across this before and I simply don't understand it. Here is the diagram of the lower deadeyes on the main mast top: It shows two bullseyes rigged together with the lower line appears to be wrapped underneath the deadeye. Here's the mast at the
  12. Good Morning, I now have the hull planked from the wales down. I'm afraid it's in my usual ham fisted style. Despite having build a number of models, I have never really gotten better at it. Oh well. If the hull is double planked, I don't really care too much about the look of my first layer. If the hull is single planked, I always have a decision to make as to whether I can live with the job I did or if I need to apply a thin second planking, which is what I did on my Pride of Baltimore. I used .5 mm strips for the second layer and the result was ok. I think I co
  13. Good Morning Everyone, I'm working on the gun ports. I'm not sure if other kits work this way or not, but this kit suggests interior planking first, then attach the framing for the gun ports to the planking. This method is working extremely well. I used thicker framing than needed, so I could sand it down to the profile of the bulkheads. Despite my complaints about the plans not showing all the detail that I would like, I have to admit that where they are clear, they are very accurate. The measurements taken from the plans match my hull really well. Th
  14. Hi Andy, I considered all kinds of solutions, but in the end I think these blocks are the simplest. I've now secured it with a brass rod running through each block and into the deck and it's really very stable. I won't glue them however until I'm sure that I'm ready to add the transom permanently. I also drilled through where the blocks connect to the counter and placed brass rod in there to help secure those joints. I can carry on now with some confidence that I won't have a nightmare with the planking at the stern. David
  15. I'm jumping ahead a bit to take a look at the transom. One of the "features" of this kit is the 3d printed transom. I'm far from ready to attach it, but I could see some problems looming, so I wanted to develop a plan to solve them ahead of time. The transom and galleries are designed so that they can be laminated with wood planking. I've started that process and I have to admit it works really well and I believe that when I have the wood fully sanded and stained/painted it should look pretty good. (Yellow, of course, need touch up.) I've gone as far as I can with the pieces off th
×
×
  • Create New...