Hollander-jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to Gregor in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Gregor – FINISHED - Caldercraft – Scale 1:64 - first build
Yes, these are 12-punder carronades, built for my Sherbourne. It was again the question: "What would she look like with a modernised armament?"
As a historian I was trained not to dwell too much on "what if" questions. But this being my hobby, and as a big fan of alternate-history and SciFi-literature all I need is a scientific alibi, weak as it may be: The carronade was first produced in 1776 (Spencer C. Tucker 1997), soon much in demand for merchant ships, and accepted in 1779 by the admiralty. The Sherbourne at that time was too weak to have any guns at all, but her successors had a mix of carronades and long guns, therefore while carronades on an early cutter model are not historically accurate, they aren't totally anachronistic, either.
The parts in Caldercraft's carronade kit are awfully small (see B.E.'s Pickle log). Besides making them a little bit lower to fit the gun ports, I added a few details, like additional 0.3mm eyebolts. The little wheels were cut from a 1.2mm brass wire; a screw (M1, the smallest I could find, a little too fat) replaced the brass wire provided with the kit; handles and a ring on the barrel were added.
Now I see hours of rigging (5 tackles per carronade) ahead of me (see Dirk’s research of carronade rigging).
Cheers (don't hit me too hard, please),
Gregor
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Mirabell61 in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
I have decided to scratch the swivel guns and make a detachable mounting. Therefore I will take the mounting of Tony and my own research as an example. Of course it will be another mounting but the principle will be the same. Detachable is what they are I think (have been in reality) I have looked at several swivels and have to decide yet which one it will be.
example A
example B
this one has a plate for mounting
example C
The gun in picture B has the most potential for me to scratch.
It will be a lot of sawing an filing because I have no late
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
nice work man, she's coming to shape looking forward to the rest of the planking.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
I am going to have a drink with my admiral. Here are some pictures they speak for them self.
Jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to egkb in HM Schooner Ballahoo by egkb - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1:64 Scale - First Proper Wood Build
All Righty Then.. Here's a few gratuitous Clamp, Peg & Pin Shots for all ye folks into that kind of thing (You Know Who Ye Are.. For Shame! )
To Quote Father Ted.. 'Down With That Sort Of Thing' ... 'Careful Now'... !
(Anyone out there who doesn't know 'Father Ted', just Google it, and enjoy. There was actually a Fr. Ted festival over in the West of Ireland last weekend and people from all over the world came to it! )
Ok on with the show..
Got some more planking done this morning, the Port side is slowly catching up with Stbd. I'll catch up fully before continuing on down both sides as I think I'm at the Wale Height on Stbd. !
When they are level I plan on planking the Stern immediately below the Transom Piece, that way the Hull Planking will Overlap the edges of this Stern Planking.. I might even plank the Transom itself as there is a Walnut Surround to go on it and the contrast could be interesting!
Thanks for checking in and have a great Weekend ok
Sail 'er Easy
Eamonn
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
I have decided to scratch the swivel guns and make a detachable mounting. Therefore I will take the mounting of Tony and my own research as an example. Of course it will be another mounting but the principle will be the same. Detachable is what they are I think (have been in reality) I have looked at several swivels and have to decide yet which one it will be.
example A
example B
this one has a plate for mounting
example C
The gun in picture B has the most potential for me to scratch.
It will be a lot of sawing an filing because I have no late
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Eamonn, This is only for brass. The guns of the kit will melt by the heat I supplied. My guns are the ones from Polen see post #123.
They are cheap enough to do this kind of experiments with. By the way I experimented with brass screws before I put cannons to the test.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from tkay11 in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
In my search for a non chemical blackening processes I have reached a goal. I have found a way to do it all me it not be as good as chemical it is cheap and well to do at least for cannons.
Clean the object well with ammonia and acid, I did half an hour in lemon juice. Don't touch it after the cleaning. Take the object with clippers to a flame ore a torch and make it red hot. After it is red hot put in soya sauce, the black sauce for oriental food. let it cool for half a minute and take it out with clippers make it hot again. repeat this two or three times. Rinse with clean tap water and the result is a black brass object.
The result is well enough for the price and satisfying for me.
the second picture is a comparison between different sorts of brass a cannon and a screw both brass. The screw is blacked better then the cannon although treated in the same way, it must be the composition af the alloy I think. The screw has to withstand more force than a model gun so I think it will be off an other composition of materials.
I did this search because I was convinced that there must be a way other than chemical, not that I am against using chemicals ore painting. The search was fun to do and gave me a lot of information.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
In my search for a non chemical blackening processes I have reached a goal. I have found a way to do it all me it not be as good as chemical it is cheap and well to do at least for cannons.
Clean the object well with ammonia and acid, I did half an hour in lemon juice. Don't touch it after the cleaning. Take the object with clippers to a flame ore a torch and make it red hot. After it is red hot put in soya sauce, the black sauce for oriental food. let it cool for half a minute and take it out with clippers make it hot again. repeat this two or three times. Rinse with clean tap water and the result is a black brass object.
The result is well enough for the price and satisfying for me.
the second picture is a comparison between different sorts of brass a cannon and a screw both brass. The screw is blacked better then the cannon although treated in the same way, it must be the composition af the alloy I think. The screw has to withstand more force than a model gun so I think it will be off an other composition of materials.
I did this search because I was convinced that there must be a way other than chemical, not that I am against using chemicals ore painting. The search was fun to do and gave me a lot of information.
Jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to Gregor in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Great, Jan, your blackening agent definitely smells better than my ammonia, and it seems to do the job! On the market your process should get an "organic" label.
Thanks for sharing the fun and info!
Gregor
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Gregor in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
In my search for a non chemical blackening processes I have reached a goal. I have found a way to do it all me it not be as good as chemical it is cheap and well to do at least for cannons.
Clean the object well with ammonia and acid, I did half an hour in lemon juice. Don't touch it after the cleaning. Take the object with clippers to a flame ore a torch and make it red hot. After it is red hot put in soya sauce, the black sauce for oriental food. let it cool for half a minute and take it out with clippers make it hot again. repeat this two or three times. Rinse with clean tap water and the result is a black brass object.
The result is well enough for the price and satisfying for me.
the second picture is a comparison between different sorts of brass a cannon and a screw both brass. The screw is blacked better then the cannon although treated in the same way, it must be the composition af the alloy I think. The screw has to withstand more force than a model gun so I think it will be off an other composition of materials.
I did this search because I was convinced that there must be a way other than chemical, not that I am against using chemicals ore painting. The search was fun to do and gave me a lot of information.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Thank you Kester,
It took me 4 days to see how it must be done. Only to find a way out of the problem. I build a rig for the boat where it would be solid and not got left or right, only down force was permitted. Fitted several times dry and drilled the four holes two on each side very carefully.
Then I put it up in the rig and glued the rail after I was sure it would go in the right place the nails holding it in place. I had to make good contact with boat and rail, there was no way of getting clamps on, weight was the only option. So I did put almost 5 kg of weight on it for a good glue / rail / boat contact. After 2 hours al was ok and a sigh of relief
It all worked out the way I had thought and planned it, but you are right some bravery is involved. On the other hand Cutters are strong vessels
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from tkay11 in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Thank you Kester,
It took me 4 days to see how it must be done. Only to find a way out of the problem. I build a rig for the boat where it would be solid and not got left or right, only down force was permitted. Fitted several times dry and drilled the four holes two on each side very carefully.
Then I put it up in the rig and glued the rail after I was sure it would go in the right place the nails holding it in place. I had to make good contact with boat and rail, there was no way of getting clamps on, weight was the only option. So I did put almost 5 kg of weight on it for a good glue / rail / boat contact. After 2 hours al was ok and a sigh of relief
It all worked out the way I had thought and planned it, but you are right some bravery is involved. On the other hand Cutters are strong vessels
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Thank you Kester,
It took me 4 days to see how it must be done. Only to find a way out of the problem. I build a rig for the boat where it would be solid and not got left or right, only down force was permitted. Fitted several times dry and drilled the four holes two on each side very carefully.
Then I put it up in the rig and glued the rail after I was sure it would go in the right place the nails holding it in place. I had to make good contact with boat and rail, there was no way of getting clamps on, weight was the only option. So I did put almost 5 kg of weight on it for a good glue / rail / boat contact. After 2 hours al was ok and a sigh of relief
It all worked out the way I had thought and planned it, but you are right some bravery is involved. On the other hand Cutters are strong vessels
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Matti,
Your guns are amazing. Can't say anything else then really. It must have been hard and painstaking to make them as they are.
I like them and I like the dark look of them.
Jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Thanks Jan, but it's actually been pretty mild this year - with the temperature hovering around 0°, and rain rather than snow! We've had some of the latter, but not that much and it's now all gone, at least here in Stockholm. I actually prefer it when it's colder, as it's usually not so damp. It is dark and grey, although in the last couple of days we've had some sunshine, and it looks like more of the same later on.
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Here are the pictures after the cosmetics. I must say I am proud of it, being a first timer. It is a pleasure to see that the determination has overcome some of the difficulties.
All holes are drilled by hand and elbow crease. For the iron bands on the rudder I use the capsule off a port bottle cut to size on a glass plate.
The helm is from an old peace of furniture. It is sanded in shape part by machine part by hand. The black band on the end of the helm an the top of the rudder suggest iron.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Thank you Kester for your kind comment. I saw the rudder to, I take over you suggestion an trim it to the keel line, being very careful not to damage anything but for now I have a rest and do some study on the remaining of the build.
There is a lot of work to do and I want to be prepared for what comes next. And most off all I want to make the most of what is left. Plus some extra's. Don't know what, but I will come up with something.
Thanks again for all your comments, please keep them coming, Like we said, this ship is full off learning. A next one will certainly be better.
For now I wihs you all the best in coping with the Swedish winter (heard from my son, he lives in Stockholm, that is is very dark and grey).
Jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to Gregor in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Gregor – FINISHED - Caldercraft – Scale 1:64 - first build
The pin rail situation has been partially solved. There was room for 6 additional pins on each side, five holes can be seen here on the picture. I added another very small piece of wood towards the bow, with a hole for one more pin.
I made also a pin rail under the bowsprit, with four pins. My archaic windlass offered no possibility to ad something there. If the rigging develops a complexity that I cannot imagine at the moment, there will be room for more pins on both sides at the bulwark. And yes, the windlass has now standards – when looking at Dirks log I decided not to take a shortcut here.
Sunday afternoon I spent soldering. The brass swivels are from Caldercraft, treated as shown in Dirks log. My stanchions are simpler, though. I soldered small rings to a brass wire (0.8mm).
The problem now is blackening. After trying out the solution by Krick, I got a better result with a mixture prepared by a local chemist: It works perfectly with brass, less so with soldering leftovers. Stanchions, handles and pintles I will have to paint, the swivels themselves are almost clean, with traces of rust … With the big guns I will be extra careful.
Chers,
Gregor
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Hollander-jan reacted to Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Jan,
Looking very good. I would suggest, though, you trim the bottom of the rudder to match the keel line.
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Here are the pictures after the cosmetics. I must say I am proud of it, being a first timer. It is a pleasure to see that the determination has overcome some of the difficulties.
All holes are drilled by hand and elbow crease. For the iron bands on the rudder I use the capsule off a port bottle cut to size on a glass plate.
The helm is from an old peace of furniture. It is sanded in shape part by machine part by hand. The black band on the end of the helm an the top of the rudder suggest iron.
Jan
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from Gregor in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Here are the pictures after the cosmetics. I must say I am proud of it, being a first timer. It is a pleasure to see that the determination has overcome some of the difficulties.
All holes are drilled by hand and elbow crease. For the iron bands on the rudder I use the capsule off a port bottle cut to size on a glass plate.
The helm is from an old peace of furniture. It is sanded in shape part by machine part by hand. The black band on the end of the helm an the top of the rudder suggest iron.
Jan
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Hollander-jan reacted to Stockholm tar in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
Jan,
Like what he said, Tony that is. As for us all ***** ing – we'd rather not mention it!
Your rudder planking looks great and, I think you'll agree, it's much better than leaving it one big slab of wood. Yes, there are still a few problems with the iron work, but nothing that can't be overcome, I'm sure. What to do though?
First I think I'd lower the top pintle fitting, so that the actual pintle fits inside the gudgeon on the stern post. The middle one looks as though it needs to come out from the rudder a little, so that there is more of a gap for it to fit its gudgeon. The bottom one looks fine.
Hope this helps.
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Hollander-jan reacted to tkay11 in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
It's great that you have the determination, Jan, to see this kind of challenge through. That's part of the fun/pain of the hobby. There are lots of challenges like this. The pain is in not getting it right first time, second time, third... . The fun is when you hit on the solution, and that's when the quiet little smile comes to your face as you look on your little win and move on to the next challenge. Far better than computer games in which you just succeed at a certain level then move on to the next -- but have nothing solid or tangible left to look at or admire.
Tony
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Hollander-jan got a reaction from egkb in HMC Sherbourne 1763 by Hollander-jan - Caldercraft - 1/64
The rudder is hanging in the gudgeons. It planked and it is a dry fit. There still is work to do. And let me tell you I will remake it after my soldering is in order. It is close enough to the ship but it is not in a proper way. And certainly not historical right. The other thing is that it is on the ship and it works, for the time being this is it. I will make a helm and do some cosmetic work so it will look a bit as it should.
I found this almost impossible to work out, because of the three point where it must turn on. I made several mistakes witch made it more difficult and before I discovered these mistakes and found more ore less the right path there was at times a feeing of I just glue it on WHAM BAM THANK YOU MA'M.
But that is the past it is on and here is a picture.
Jan
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