AON

Post 85
A short post about Long Guns
Harpy has two Bow chaser six pounders which I have been thinking about how to display.
These are the last two items to be  fixed to the deck, ideally done before the masting and shroud rigging begins.
I had thoughts of lashing the Long guns inboard, parallel to the ports, but I couldn’t quite decide  on the lashing approach, so I took the soft option and positioned them run-out.

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The breeching rope is 3 x the gun bore length, using 4” circ line – 0.50mm dia at scale. I actually used Syren 0.63mm ø line.
I will only be attaching the Breechings, as I did with the Carronades.
For those in mind to attach the side tackles:-              
Tackles 1½” circ line - 0.20mm ø  at scale
Rigging blocks single  5/6” size -2mm-2.5mm at scale.

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I find it useful to use small sections of tubing to secure the breeching line for addition of the seizings.

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I used Morope 0.1mm  Polyester line for seizing, it is the finest 0.1mm diameter line I have found.

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Quite fiddly to seize the breechings on the model, a better job can be done using an off-model jig.
The downside is that it can also be fiddly fitting the bulwark ringbolts with other deck fittings in place, and the guns may have to be fitted at an earlier stage of the build.

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Onwards….
 
 
B.E.
07/06/2025
 

This is the first attempt . I am sure that i will make these removable doors and windows a few times before i get it correct. 

Chris that’s just a template. That’s not the finished piece. I haven’t started working on that as yet

Post 84
Completing the masts.
The Pin rails and a driver boom saddle are added to the lower mast sections.

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Fore mast Pin rail, beautifully cut slots for the pins.

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The Pin rail on the Mainmast really needs fitting before adding the lowest  ‘iron’ mast band otherwise it won’t slide up to the correct position.
 
The tops which are traditionally painted black down to the hounds, are now attended to.
I used Vallejo Black/grey for the purpose.

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I love the planking detail Chris has engraved into the tops, I used a slightly thinner mix of paint in this area so as not to obscure the detail.

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There are five iron bands  spaced equally along the Masthead. For these I used 1mm slices from heat shrink tubing. This gives a subtle shade difference to the painted head.
Atop the iron bands are a series of battens designed to protect the rigging from wear.

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Kit provided pieces are of 0.6mm strips which I found a little thin to notch over the bands. I replaced these with some slightly thicker strip which allowed a shallow notch to be cut.
 
There are eight of these on each masthead; a small detail the top ends should be sniped to follow practice.
Steel also notes that; battens should have rounded edges for the rigging to slide down easily.

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Steel also notes that; The afterside of Mizen masts  in ships, and mainmasts in brigs, to be coppered in the wear of the gaff and boom.
An easy addition using copper tape if so motivated.

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I now have the overall size of my model version which will require a cover of 30”L x 9” W x 16” H.
I can get this organised while I continue with the build.
 
B.E.
04/06/2025


 

Cheers Guys for your  comments and 'likes'  much appreciated.👍
 
Post 82
Boom and Gaff
I have spent a couple of days looking at the two booms I will include with my model.
An interesting use of terminology here.
What we may generically know as Driver Booms are referred to by Steel as Main Booms in relation to cutters and Sloops.
Again, there are defined proportions relating to Driver/Main Booms.
The Steel tables indicate subtle differences in the taper arrangements between  Driver booms and Main Booms, mainly in relation to the position of the widest diameter, but the differences at  1:64 scale are minimal.
Driver Booms – largest diameter – mid point along the boom
Main Booms  -   largest diameter - Position of the sheet – just inside the Tafferal.
 
The  sizes of booms is confusing, it must be tricky to decide what to apply to the Harpy Kit.
Unfortunately Steel doesn’t have tables relative to Brig Sloops.
The kit Main Boom seems to be based on a 200 ton Brig with a Boom diameter of 10½” – 4mm at scale.
Harpy is a 316 ton vessel, yet a Sloop of 300 tons has a Boom diameter of only 7⅜”-  3mm at scale.
 
There are also defined proportions set out in Steel for Gaffs
Length of Gaffs 5/8 of respective booms, diameter of Gaffs -same as booms.
The kit seems to follow these proportions.

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Both booms were shaped on the lathe using sanding papers.

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I note that the boom jaws lack iron bands which were common for these items.
I used heat shrink tubing for the purpose, but black card would suffice.
The Gaff
On my build I found the jaws  a tad too small to fit around the mast in the raised position even tho’ the overall mast dimension including the cheeks is the correct diameter.

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Here I have  thinned down the jaws as much as I dare but the fit is not ideal.

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Fortunately, on my build the Gaff will be in the lowered postion where the fit is fine.
Had I been rigging the Gaff in the raised position I would  have to re-do the Gaff for a better fit, probably by splitting the jaws and re-attaching with a slightly less tapered boom at the inboard end.
 
B.E
01/06/2025
 

Hi Mike - it's a trick of the camera!  The gantry is separate from the height gauge in front of the of it.  This is the gauge that I use - I use this to measure so much as my datum for the build is the bottom of the keel.  I didn't have this tool when I began building but I wish that I had.

I don't have a tonne of progress to show, but as it has been about a week since I last posted I figured I would give a short update.
 
I continue to work away at the bulkheads and am now nearing the end. The only bulkheads left to put in place are the final two at either end. I have left these till last as the stern ones are the most fragile and the bow ones need some pre-fairing before I glue them in place.

Still lots of structural work to go, but she is starting to take shape now.

Hi All
 
I've not posted in a while as I found an issue with my build that began 3 1/2 years ago when my building skills and general ship understanding were very much in their infancy I guess.  I first noticed this problem when I fitted the stern timbers and stern windows.  I could see that the counter timbers did not go fully to the top of the stern timbers and the quarter deck rear beam seemed far too close to the top of the windows.  The issue is -  I have set the counter timbers at the wrong angle which to correct at this stage would be very difficult indeed.
 
I felt that this would be the end of the build as I have tried my very best to keep as accurately to the plans as possible.  I decided just to have a break and come back to it later with a fresh outlook and see how I felt about the problem.
 
So with a renewed outlook I took loads of measurements of the entire ship.  I discovered that everything forward of the stern post is fine.  I also discovered that everything rearward of the stern post is 5mm out of spec.  So I have a ship that is 5mm longer than it should be and the issues that accompany it.
 
Upwards and onwards - The build continues but first I had to address a couple of problems.  I would need to lift the rear beam upwards to the correct height and the quarter deck would have to be bespoke behind the stern post.   So firstly the rear beam - Rather than remove the beam I have just made it 1.5mm thicker by adding a piece on.
 


Next I made the beams  - here's a few pictures of the process that I use.

Just rough cut on the band saw

I prefer to sand the inner curve first but I'm sure it makes no difference 

Then the outer


Next I cut the dovetail joints - I really like doing this part its so satisfying 


Then I cut them into the clamps using a height gauge to make sure that they are at the correct height.  I also sense check the alignment with a steel rule as they must be level with the stern post.




Then I made the beam supports 




Finally I made the waterways which sit nicely on the level of the planksheer
 




So although I'm not exactly to the plans anymore I think I've pulled it back enough to get away with it.  I do have knock on issues such as the taff rail will be longer etc etc.... but I've got my head around what needs to be done.  On the positive side you are getting 5mm more ship for your buck!!!  Also stepping away sometimes is a very good thing to do!  I'm very much back into it now - A slight delay though as it's my wife's 60th birthday next week so we are off to Crete for a fortnight to celebrate.  I can now remove all of the beams and start some of the interior detail.
 
Mark
 

Post 81
A look around Harpy at this six month build stage, a very enjoyable experience overall.
In my search for authenticity, there has  been some frustration with detail queries, and some things still remain a mystery.
Even so, she is shaping up into a fine model, Harpy is a worthy addition to Chris’s  range.

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All the hull work bar some minor fittings, is now essentially complete, time to move onto the Masting.
 
B.E.
25/05/2025

I may be seeing things wrong but it seems the eyebolt in the deck is too close as the gun doesn't look like it can be haul back.

I suppose that is another reason not to rig stuff no one will see!  
I'm taking notes. 

Post 80
Rigging the stern davits
I used Syren 0.30mm line, 5/32” Double resin blocks, and 3mm  plastic hooks. 0.1mm line is used for seizing.
 
Chuck has produced an excellent method of block stropping, check out his pdf in the Traders and Dealers section.
 
Quite a tricky business hanging the boat on the tackle hooks, it helps to apply a spot of glue to the ring to keep it in the vertical position.

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The handling during the attachment has rubbed some of the paint from the gunwales, so the boat will have to be removed at some some point for a touch -in.

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Not quite sure yet how to  belay the tackle falls. The kit plan simply shows them secured around the aftermost timberhead which sits against the cabin roof.
 
Shot Garlands

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The shot garlands have been fitted, I used 2mm bearings rather than the kit supplied plastic versions.
 
Belay pins
Rather than fit the kit supplied brass etch pins I am waiting to see how Chuck's  testing of  1:64 scale pins work out,  I do hope they will be success.
On my Harpy build they won’t  be put under any stress as I’m not fitting the running rigging.
 
Back to the masts…
 
B.E.
27/05/2025
 

What a number of the videos and modelers notes seem to indicate is that no one knows what is on the brass and different solvents will affect different contaminants on the pieces. I have acetone and should have mentioned it. Certainly the best results was pickling the pieces. Based on my soldering experience this has never disappointed me. You are right about blackening the photo etched pieces still connected to the frame. I actually used a stiff paint brush with the solvents and could see something coming off in the solution.  My choice would be to prickle the pieces, rinse, then blacken. If they did not take then i would try one of the three solvents i have in the shop until i get success. Thanks for the feedback.

Nice video on blackening Kevin. Some random thoughts - I use either alcohol or acetone as a degreaser. Also, keep in mind that brass is an alloy and, depending on the composition, some brass is much more difficult to blacken. For large groups of pieces I find that pickling first makes a difference in the blackening and uniformity of the finish. For small pieces you can use a paint brush to polish them in a deep tupperware piece so they don't fly away. Polishing prevents the finish from transfering to surrounding pieces and evens out the finish. Finally, while it's easier to blacken the Swan PE sheet whole don't you find that you still have to blacken the cut edges after removal from the sheet?

Yes but its a great way to practice and the only way to get it right.

Installing the cockpit today went pretty smooth. The seat will be removable for access to starting system held in by friction. I have any leather I want to use for the seat that I hope will work but not sure if I want to fix it to the seat or have it as a separate removable cushion.  Up next work on decking one layer balsa under the planking like everywhere else even though that’s not what the plans say but I am excited to get that started.
 
and for this weeks boat adventure we went of 4 different boats from old and slow to a newer fast passenger ferry to port orchard for a mosquito fleet festival where I saw a giant model of the Virginia v that I’ve never seen before and was very well done. Really couldn’t have been a much better day on the water without a boat of my own 

Time for a minor update. I continue to add bulkheads and am getting close to the bow at this point. You may notice some of the bulkheads have been painted black. The reason for this is I am as of yet unsure how much of the main deck I will open up to being visible and so on the off chance that these parts are seen I want them to fade into the blackness of the lower deck. They represent areas that would actually have been open and so we need to create the illusion of space.

One thing I don’t think I appreciated fully until now is how much minor errors or slight alignment issues can have significant impacts on a model when it comes to the main structure. I ran into one issue (though I was able to correct it) and since have been much more careful about checking everything in all 3 dimensions. This all makes me very thankful that the Vanguard Models kit I used for my first model was so precise. Really I took the structure of the model for granted. It is much harder when you have to cut and align everything yourself and even parts being a millimetre off can make a significant difference.
 
Thanks to everyone who is following along for all your encouragement.

Blckening brass

Wishing you a quick recovery with the knee and of course safe travels.  She looks amazing Bruce!  Excellent subject.

I also thought that furled sails would look best.
Bill

St. Roch is now mounted on her display base...
I still have a list of about a dozen items to make and install before the hull is complete, things from the ship's boats to the decals. Much can be done off the model and completing these items will be my goal for the rest of the summer. 
That's one of the things about scratch building... you have to think ahead and make up your instructions as you go along, and hope Part A fits into Assembly B before Widget X gets in the way (as it inevitably will)!
I have also made some decisions as to St. Roch's display. Apart from some old Revell kits I made about 50 years ago, this is my first model sailing ship. I have decided to show her sails furled, so as to include all the running rigging while not impeding the view of the deck. New skills to learn, and I have picked up David Antscherl's Appendix on sail-making for some light bedtime reading! St. Roch has a very simple rig which I hope even a tyro such as myself can handle!
I have also decided not to weather the ship, or clutter up the decks with odds and ends, as the ship is displayed today. This is a model, and my focus is to display the ship herself. Anyone who has followed this build log will have seen the warts on my hull and paint; but St. Roch is (or was) a working schooner that saw hard service, so to that end I am leaving the divots and scratches, as these were, and are today, present on the hull. Despite that she was well maintained by her crew of R.C.M.P. Constables, who took a great deal of pride in their ship, so I am leaving the hull free of rust and detritus.



Keen eyes will note on the two previous pictures the zinc anodes, installed on the forged steel rudder reinforcements. Also the various inlets, discharges, and exhausts have been drilled through the hull and lined with pieces of brass rod.

So now I am going fishing, then in June I'll be getting my other knee replaced, and making a pilgrimage to France in August (my Grandfather was with the 38th Bn at Vimy Ridge, and my wife Dale's father came ashore at Juno Beach), so I will be away for most of the summer but I will check in from time to time!
 
Thanks for following along; I would appreciate hearing from others how you arrived at your decisions as to how to display your models... 
Regards,
Bruce
 

Moving right along, the stern area of St. Roch is now complete!
I fabricated the rudder brake from styrene channel, shop made turnbuckle and shackles, nut and bolt details, and basswood...

Taking up the turnbuckle presses the shoe against the quadrant, useful if the linkage breaks... 
The quadrant is limited to 40 degrees, I made the stops from basswood.

The whole rudder area is protected by a wooden platform cover, which I made using offcuts from my hull build. The pictures show it being test fitted to the ship, and installed after painting...


Finally, here is the same area on St. Roch today, photographed by myself during a visit about 5 years ago...

Entering the home stretch as far as finishing the hull goes!
Thanks for looking in, and as always comments and critiques are welcome!
 

As Alan said it is wipe on poly, a thin polyurethane that you wipe on with a rag and then immediately wipe off. You can build it up in several layers to get a very nice finish. I only used two layers at this point since it will be applied over the whole hull again at some point, but I need to paint / plank before I start adding more. It makes the wood slightly darker for every layer you add and so I want the keel to be slightly darker than the planking (to help differentiate it), but not too much so. If you search you can find a number of guides to using WOP here on MSW.
 
I didn't discuss this in detail in the post, but the reason the upper part of the stem looks much duller is I pretty much sanded away the layer of WOP I added to it initially. I want the ink I am going to use to paint it to sink into the wood and so I don't want the WOP barrier in the way.