AON

Some more work done and this time it's the main mast and chocks.  I'm not rigging this ship so the mast is just going to be a stubby.
Sorry this post is going to be a bit picture heavy so firstly the main mast.  I didn't have timber with a big enough dimension to make the 16mm diameter mast.  So I glued 4 equal pieces together which I ran through a thickness sander to get a good flat gluing surface.  This piece was then placed in an independent 4 jaw chuck and supported by a live centre.

This was then turned to the required diameter - this was easy with wood but I don't think I'd try a length of metal like this without support.

Next was to cut it to length; make the iron band to prevent the base of the mast from splitting and also shape the base to sit in the mast step.


The mast partner also required finishing and I wanted to make a nice feature of this.  I had the problem of cutting 10 pieces at exactly 36 degrees and I just don't have the equipment to cut such long pieces accurately.  So I decided to make it out of 30 individually cut pieces all glued together and then use a glued in dowel to be able to mount it in a chuck.



Next I turned the inner and outer dimensions and once this was done sanded the end faces to 7 degrees to match the final angle of the mast.



The piece in place on the main deck


Then I made the mast step chocks - the one on the left is also cut at an angle to match the mast.


Finally all of the pieces are assembled and fixed into the hull.





I think my next job is going to be the catheads but I'm not sure yet
 
Cheers Mark
 
 
 

Or the seal to the prop shaft is dry and tight?

Ah ha now I understand 🙂.  Thanks druxey I can see exactly what you mean now and why.  This is an easy fix too - much appreciated 

The positions of the cleats look fine, it's just that the fore faces as you move away from top center will dig into the rope and fray it in time. As an example, your rule only touches the upper corner of the nearest cleat in the photo. It should touch all the way across its face as seen in the partial plan. If you are still unsure of what I mean, take a turn of string around the bowsprit as a quasi line.
 
The photo (although a different subject) shows rows of these cleats with varying fore angles to their faces. Hope this helps!

Then I started working on the sliding information tray.  I made a support bridge piece between the frames, marked the depth, wood rasped and then sanded to the marks. Drilled and inserted the stopper dowel.  I didn't get any photos of it until the final assembly.
 
Marked the location, depth and width on the front frame piece then I cut it down. 
 
The sliding "tray" is a piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard) wide enough for the nameplate and deep enough to have a slotted hole to encapsulate the locking pin in a slotted hole.  The pull out handle is made of three strands of 0.031" copper wire twisted together to look like rope.  One end of the group of wires was clamped in the vise and the other end in the chuck of my variable speed drill.  I ran the drill to twist the wires until I had the look I wanted.  The wire was bent and the fiberboard was grooved for the wire to sit into, below the surface so the nameplate would sit flat (no bump).  As an added precaution the ends of the wire were bent 90° downwards to fit into holes drilled at the end of each groove so when pulling on the wire it has additional holding power to the MDF.  This was assembled and glued together.  Then the tray was assembled to the sub-base and tested.

Cheers druxey - I think I know what you mean about the faces of the cleats and I think I have got them just about spot on.  The rope is tied to an iron ring further down the stem.  Here's a couple of pictures - fortunately I can easily change them if they are in fact not correct.  Let me know if you think they need moving.

Hi all I hope you're having a nice xmas break and looking forward to 2026.
 
Some more work done on Le Rochefort - I started by finishing the bowsprit.  I don't know the name of these parts but they are obviously stops to hold rope in place that helps secure the bowsprit.  They are quite small and are tapered to a 9 degree angle.  I achieved this by simply angling the head of the mill and taking a cut.  Then I just cut them out using a fine razor saw.



Next were the final 4 planks at the bow which were very straight forward to make and fit.




The final parts to make were the gunwales for the bow - again these were quite straight forward they just take time to get a good fit.  Where the gunwale rolls down towards the main deck its suppose to have a small tail which makes it look like a spiral.  I've made a couple of attempts at making this but neither really looked any good.  If I was painting it black (as it should be) it would be quite an easy thing to cover up and get a good result.  I'm leaving this ship just as it is so maybe this is something I will have to revisit later.






Another update coming shortly - thanks Mark

They look pretty darn good to me!

Lastly, I decided to go through a dry run of rigging on main sail and fore main sail as the Aeropicola plans do not provide much rigging details. I did substantial research on this through internet and YouTube - quite helpful. However, regarding the belaying positions on the deck level, I had to combine my common sense (or imagination) with the belaying plans of my previous build (Corel Endeavor). 
 
Forgive my choice of using red colored material for the dry run sheets. This red Korean traditional silk fabric was the most similar material (in terms of thickness and softness) to the ultra thin cotton fabric that I intend to use for the actual sheets.

Below are the pictures of main sheet trial without blocks (with just temporary threads in place of actual blocks).






 
Initial proof of concept on main sheet done and moving on to fore main sail dry run, this time with blocks attached.
 
 


 
As you can see from below pictures, I employed two buntlines that run through single blocks (here represented by thread loops) attached on the yard, and passing through double blocks attached underneath the crow's nest.

 




I also applied a slab line (at the point between the two buntline positions) on the back side of the sheet, running directly through a single block beneath the crow's nest (on the stern side). Which is then belayed to the rail behind. Let me know if this method should be reconsidered for a better and more historically accurate one. That's all for this update!
 

Continuing with the shroud and stay try-outs. I decided to deviate from Aeropicola’s topmast stay related plans as they do not seem reasonable. For this change, I had to reshape and rearrange the topmast stay stoppers. Below are the pictures related to these work streams.
 






 
Some more testing and try-outs on shrouds as below.
 
 



 
Repeating these try-outs with GH2 as well.

 

They look pretty darn good to me!

Hi All~
 
Progress report on GH1 & GH2 : quite a lot of testing, trying out various stuffs, proof of concept kind of activities were carried out since my last update. These include 1) trying out pine tar treated threads for stays and shrouds (vis-a-vis the appropriateness of color, thickness and ease of serving with my newly procured dark brown polyester thin threads and etc.), 2) trying out various methods and positions for the stays and shrouds, 3) dry runs in regards to the rigging of some sheets for the purpose of pre-determining
 overall belaying positions and also to assess (to some degree) if the current number of belaying facilities are enough or not.
 
The below pictures show the end results of pine tar dyeing of two types of threads. Thinner one (about 1 mm in diameter, for shrouds and upper mast stays ) was originally light brown cotton thread - dyed using 1:1 (pine tar : thinner) proportion. This one took about a week to touch dry. The thicker one  (about 1.5 mm in diameter, for lower mast stays ) was originally white cotton thread - dyed using 2:1 (pine tar : thinner) proportion. This one took about 3 weeks to touch dry.


 
Testing serving on couple of samples (shroud lines and stay related blocks) on my Lego serving machine- to which I added more function to enable other tasks.
 
 







 
First try-outs of the served threads.
 
 

Log #32: Research Document Draft 2
I had not realized how long it has been since I last updated this build. The short explanation is that life has been really busy and so I have not had the time or energy to devote to the build. Little has changed since the last update, though I did finish the outboard faring and so removed the protective masking tape from the keel and bow to allow me to see the current state of Perseus better.

Once you get in a rut of no progress it is hard to get going again and I am hoping I will be able to have more actual progress to report in the new year.
 
Despite the lack of progress on the building front, I have made some progress on the research side of things. In particular, I have recently (as a way of encouraging myself to get rolling again), been working on cleaning up the research document to enable me to publish an update.
 
The update contains the following changes from the previous version:
The addition of the first part of chapter 3 detailing my research into the knee of the head and the figurehead of Perseus. Additional transcribed primary source material (mostly ordnance related) in the Appendixes. Numerous additions and changes to chapters 1-2 with more primary source material. A number of fixes and corrections. As with the previous document please feel free to reach out if you have any corrections / would like to offer some counterpoints to my conclusions.
 
 
HM 20-Gun Ship Perseus C1-3 v0.2.pdf

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Having established the gap between the upper and lower cheeks, I made the hawse bollard and backing plate. I decided the clean white look of maple was a nice contrast. The backing plate was steamed and clamped. I couldn't get back to it for three days... it was quite dry and had no spring back!

I completed shaping the upper cheek pieces, scraped the grooves into them, then glued them into place. They just need to be drilled and pinned similarly to what I had done to the lower cheeks.


The paper template in the top photo is for my trail board. The contract reads as follows: To have a double trail board, and a lion or figure, as shall be directed. Handsomely carved; the rails and supporters handsomely wrought with mouldings.

I searched the internet for lion figures and found a few that might be suitable, but then thought the Chimera monster (that Bellerophon killed) which is mostly lion… or a Griffon (as seen on the crest of the last stone frigate) which is partly lion might be more interesting, but also these might be more difficult to carve, especially to fit a ½” tall x 1” long space.    Decisions!

I also have had two attempts at the third piece of the upper cheek that rises up the main bracket behind the figurehead. These have both been tossed in the scrap bin.  Third time is the charm!  These two above had been soaked in 90% Isopropyl Alcohol (cotton batten soaked, laid over the figures and wrapped in clear cling wrap aka Saran wrap) over night to allow me to peel them off the block of wood. They were glued on with drops of yellow wood glue. The block is clamped in a vise to allow me to carve away at them.
 
Not sure how much I'll get done before Christmas.
 

Having established the gap between the upper and lower cheeks, I made the hawse bollard and backing plate. I decided the clean white look of maple was a nice contrast. The backing plate was steamed and clamped. I couldn't get back to it for three days... it was quite dry and had no spring back!

I completed shaping the upper cheek pieces, scraped the grooves into them, then glued them into place. They just need to be drilled and pinned similarly to what I had done to the lower cheeks.


The paper template in the top photo is for my trail board. The contract reads as follows: To have a double trail board, and a lion or figure, as shall be directed. Handsomely carved; the rails and supporters handsomely wrought with mouldings.

I searched the internet for lion figures and found a few that might be suitable, but then thought the Chimera monster (that Bellerophon killed) which is mostly lion… or a Griffon (as seen on the crest of the last stone frigate) which is partly lion might be more interesting, but also these might be more difficult to carve, especially to fit a ½” tall x 1” long space.    Decisions!

I also have had two attempts at the third piece of the upper cheek that rises up the main bracket behind the figurehead. These have both been tossed in the scrap bin.  Third time is the charm!  These two above had been soaked in 90% Isopropyl Alcohol (cotton batten soaked, laid over the figures and wrapped in clear cling wrap aka Saran wrap) over night to allow me to peel them off the block of wood. They were glued on with drops of yellow wood glue. The block is clamped in a vise to allow me to carve away at them.
 
Not sure how much I'll get done before Christmas.
 

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

I think your choice of monster is spot on! I am in no way a historian, but can see the logic in the myth/saga about who killed who and the connection to the ships name.
Also, I think a griffon is more picturesque than the chimaira (lion+goat+snake) 🙂
 
Happy holidays Alan!

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.

Well, I managed one of the two upper cheek finishing bits. It is presently soaking to be removed from the baseboard.

I also installed the trail boards and decided on the figure, a griffon or gryphon if you prefer. The drawing has been mounted to some bass wood (linden) and that glued to a baseboard in readiness for carving.

As I am getting tired of looking at my mistake at the stern, I've cut out the transom taffrail board in black walnut, steamed it, and it is presently clamped and drying. The clamp piece is a scrap 2x4 piece of lumber cut to the curve of the present stern taken with my profile gauge. I will not unclamp it until after Christmas. I intend to remove the offending counter timber tops sometime soon (in the new year) and will replace them with the taffrail board.