AON

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

Before starting on the gun deck (again) I decided to install the wales.  Per the contract the wales are hook and butt and a photo of a model of the Bellona shows this quite clearly.

I drew some 20 foot long hook and butt planks at 1:64 scale using DraftSight to make a straight plank template.

I measure off the NMM plan and converted the measurements from 1:48 to 1:64 scale. These were transferred to my timbers.

I then attached sheets of tracing paper to the model and transferred these marks to it along with some other details (gun port openings, hawse pipes holes, butt to stem post and end at the aft).

This curvature was then transposed to transparent graph paper. The printed straight plank template was cut out and slipped below and my curved templates were traced onto the graph paper.

I will be using black walnut for the wales. This stock will be cut and sanded to thickness and then two sheets rubber cemented together to allow me to cut both individual identical port and starboard planks at one time. I cannot use my black carbon paper to trace these shapes as it will be difficult to see the outline on black walnut so I’ve ordered a package of white carbon paper for the job!

Safety note: Black walnut sawdust may be toxic to some, so proper precautions must be taken when cutting and sanding. Some individuals may experience respiratory irritation if exposed to large amounts of black walnut sawdust
 
Like everything else on this build... this will be my first attempt, so wish me well.
 

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

Before starting on the gun deck (again) I decided to install the wales.  Per the contract the wales are hook and butt and a photo of a model of the Bellona shows this quite clearly.

I drew some 20 foot long hook and butt planks at 1:64 scale using DraftSight to make a straight plank template.

I measure off the NMM plan and converted the measurements from 1:48 to 1:64 scale. These were transferred to my timbers.

I then attached sheets of tracing paper to the model and transferred these marks to it along with some other details (gun port openings, hawse pipes holes, butt to stem post and end at the aft).

This curvature was then transposed to transparent graph paper. The printed straight plank template was cut out and slipped below and my curved templates were traced onto the graph paper.

I will be using black walnut for the wales. This stock will be cut and sanded to thickness and then two sheets rubber cemented together to allow me to cut both individual identical port and starboard planks at one time. I cannot use my black carbon paper to trace these shapes as it will be difficult to see the outline on black walnut so I’ve ordered a package of white carbon paper for the job!

Safety note: Black walnut sawdust may be toxic to some, so proper precautions must be taken when cutting and sanding. Some individuals may experience respiratory irritation if exposed to large amounts of black walnut sawdust
 
Like everything else on this build... this will be my first attempt, so wish me well.
 

Santa arrived a couple of days ago, with assorted cargo for the hold! I was going to leave the hold empty to show the strong ice beams built into St. Roch, but once I decided to add a sailor unloading cargo I knew I had to have some cargo for him to work with! 
What arrived from Berkshire Valley (a model RR accessory company) was assorted sacks, crates, and barrels, all molded in O gauge, which is 1:48. There was just a bit of flash to clean off, then the parts, like anything coming from a mold, were rinsed thoroughly in warm soapy water to remove the mold release. Here is what they looked like:

The resin parts after painting...

And the cast metal sacks... the sailor has been glued to the plank he will be pushing his cargo along, in a sling suspended from the cargo derrick (one day soon!).

Here is the cargo down the hold. The hatch cover canvas and boards are fixed onto the main deck, and the sailor is posed to push a sling of sacks...

The details of the hold, and the ice beams, can still be seen. St. Roch shipped 150 tons of cargo for the various RCMP detachments she served, all had to be handled manually. If anyone asks me, she is at the far Eastern end of her supply run, thus almost empty!
I want to thank all the forum members who gave me thoughts and ideas about the cargo scene!
Regards,
Bruce
 
 

I used my Ausfwerks Fenderbender (so named because at 7 inches long it can bend the fenders on armored fighting vehicle models in one operation) to form the gripes for the boats. This is a true miniature brake and the best engineered product I have seen. Unfortunately it is no longer in production.

I am not going to be able to make the boat covers before I go away for a bit, so here are the boats in their cradles, with the gripes inside, waiting for me to get back to them!

The poop deck gets even more crowded after the new superstructure is added in 1944, but for now the spare rudder can still fit along or under one of the boats!
Thanks for looking in!

Before starting on the gun deck (again) I decided to install the wales.  Per the contract the wales are hook and butt and a photo of a model of the Bellona shows this quite clearly.

I drew some 20 foot long hook and butt planks at 1:64 scale using DraftSight to make a straight plank template.

I measure off the NMM plan and converted the measurements from 1:48 to 1:64 scale. These were transferred to my timbers.

I then attached sheets of tracing paper to the model and transferred these marks to it along with some other details (gun port openings, hawse pipes holes, butt to stem post and end at the aft).

This curvature was then transposed to transparent graph paper. The printed straight plank template was cut out and slipped below and my curved templates were traced onto the graph paper.

I will be using black walnut for the wales. This stock will be cut and sanded to thickness and then two sheets rubber cemented together to allow me to cut both individual identical port and starboard planks at one time. I cannot use my black carbon paper to trace these shapes as it will be difficult to see the outline on black walnut so I’ve ordered a package of white carbon paper for the job!

Safety note: Black walnut sawdust may be toxic to some, so proper precautions must be taken when cutting and sanding. Some individuals may experience respiratory irritation if exposed to large amounts of black walnut sawdust
 
Like everything else on this build... this will be my first attempt, so wish me well.
 

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

Thanks.
The neat thing is the back is glass so I can take it down and look at the other side as well.

A rainy morning here in Alberta, so a good time to get some work done on St. Roch's boats...
First I needed to carve back the stern of the motorboat. The first picture is St. Roch's motorboat showing the rudder and prop; this is what I am trying to emulate with the second picture...


Then it was off to the paint booth...

 
After the paint dried it was time to reeve the lifelines around each boat.

I made eye splices at the end of each line...

Here are the boats with the line and glue I used, ready for the final line splicing once the glue dries. I used 'No Sew' fabric glue to tack the lines into position... this dries clear and flexible, and will hold the lines in the proper shape while I make the final splices.

Next I am going to make a start with the silkspan sails, and make the boat gripes and covers. Then the davits should complete the hull work on the ship except for putting some cargo in the hold.
It will be very exciting to put the hull aside and start finishing the masts!
 

Thanks.
The neat thing is the back is glass so I can take it down and look at the other side as well.

YES

YES

YES

I also got the boat cradles complete, now they are waiting for their boats...

I now fussed around with the spare rudder, and found two ways in which it could in fact be stowed aft...
The rudder is presently stowed on St. Roch's main deck, from where it would be tremendously difficult to get it aft, past the full breadth superstructure, if it was ever needed. The larger superstructure would also preclude the rudder from being stowed aft. I also don't believe the mizzen mast that was installed in 1944 had the geometry or capacity to replace the rudder if needed, unlike the previous main sail boom. 
I wasn't sure if there would be room after my 1930 deckhouse was built, but pictures do not show it on the main deck, so where else would it go? The next pictures give a couple of options:


I think the last picture is the best guess, since the rudder would not interfere with the boat lashings.
I intend to send my pics off to the Vancouver museum and ask their opinion... wish me luck!
 

Before starting on the gun deck (again) I decided to install the wales.  Per the contract the wales are hook and butt and a photo of a model of the Bellona shows this quite clearly.

I drew some 20 foot long hook and butt planks at 1:64 scale using DraftSight to make a straight plank template.

I measure off the NMM plan and converted the measurements from 1:48 to 1:64 scale. These were transferred to my timbers.

I then attached sheets of tracing paper to the model and transferred these marks to it along with some other details (gun port openings, hawse pipes holes, butt to stem post and end at the aft).

This curvature was then transposed to transparent graph paper. The printed straight plank template was cut out and slipped below and my curved templates were traced onto the graph paper.

I will be using black walnut for the wales. This stock will be cut and sanded to thickness and then two sheets rubber cemented together to allow me to cut both individual identical port and starboard planks at one time. I cannot use my black carbon paper to trace these shapes as it will be difficult to see the outline on black walnut so I’ve ordered a package of white carbon paper for the job!

Safety note: Black walnut sawdust may be toxic to some, so proper precautions must be taken when cutting and sanding. Some individuals may experience respiratory irritation if exposed to large amounts of black walnut sawdust
 
Like everything else on this build... this will be my first attempt, so wish me well.
 

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

I took the Admiralty workshop offered by David years ago and it turned out wonderfully!
I have it framed and hanging in my workshop as a reminder of a weekend well spent.

I took the Admiralty workshop offered by David years ago and it turned out wonderfully!
I have it framed and hanging in my workshop as a reminder of a weekend well spent.

I completed my rebuild of the orlop deck… or so I thought.

The grating runs along both sides and at the bow. The lodging or (horizontal) deck beam knees are installed as are the standard (vertically upwards) knees.
I decided to add the top end of the futtock riders… faux riders. To hide the missing detail I installed the flush orlop deck planking over the area. Planking either rested in a notch cut into the beams or on a separate support ledge. I decided on the latter as it was easier then cutting more notches.

I was able to re-use the three stairs I had built, two at the bow and one at the stern.

The one detail I need to remake is the very last aft grating on both sides. I had decided to keep the support ledgers fore and aft and the battens port/starboard… but for some unknown reason I skewed the last aft set. These will be torn out and made over.
 

Before starting on the gun deck (again) I decided to install the wales.  Per the contract the wales are hook and butt and a photo of a model of the Bellona shows this quite clearly.

I drew some 20 foot long hook and butt planks at 1:64 scale using DraftSight to make a straight plank template.

I measure off the NMM plan and converted the measurements from 1:48 to 1:64 scale. These were transferred to my timbers.

I then attached sheets of tracing paper to the model and transferred these marks to it along with some other details (gun port openings, hawse pipes holes, butt to stem post and end at the aft).

This curvature was then transposed to transparent graph paper. The printed straight plank template was cut out and slipped below and my curved templates were traced onto the graph paper.

I will be using black walnut for the wales. This stock will be cut and sanded to thickness and then two sheets rubber cemented together to allow me to cut both individual identical port and starboard planks at one time. I cannot use my black carbon paper to trace these shapes as it will be difficult to see the outline on black walnut so I’ve ordered a package of white carbon paper for the job!

Safety note: Black walnut sawdust may be toxic to some, so proper precautions must be taken when cutting and sanding. Some individuals may experience respiratory irritation if exposed to large amounts of black walnut sawdust
 
Like everything else on this build... this will be my first attempt, so wish me well.
 

I took the Admiralty workshop offered by David years ago and it turned out wonderfully!
I have it framed and hanging in my workshop as a reminder of a weekend well spent.

I have never made sails for models before, so the old dog will try to learn another new trick, mentored by David Antscherl and his Appendix to his Sphinx series of books. Thanks you very much in advance David!
Silkspan is proving very hard to come by, so I can't say enough good things about people in the modelling fraternity who open themselves and their stashes to help those in need! Needless to say, like my sailor figure, I was saved by a fellow modeller who kindly donated enough Silkspan for my St. Roch... there may even be scraps left over for lifeboat covers!
My sails will be furled, to hide my inevitable mistakes as much as giving a clear view of the decks, therefore I reduced the height of each sail about 30%, to allow for scale thickness of the material!
The first picture shows the paper templates I made, sitting on the Silkspan. This lets me size the required sail-making frame...

I marked the foot of each sail and oriented them in the same plane, so when it is time to mark the cloths that make up each sail it should be a matter of drawing the lines in parallel across the entire sheet. I hope!
I found a suitable sized piece of plywood in my garage scrap lumber stash, and using measurements taken from the templates and allowing for the required overlap of the Silkspan onto the wood, I marked out the hole to cut, creating the frame and insert in one operation.

A clearance hole and one pass with my scroll saw was all it took, then a bit of finishing with my palm sander.  The cut is not perfectly square because the scroll saw throat is a bit smaller than the length of cut!

The insert will support the Silkspan while it is being worked on, and the frame will hold it taut.  
Here is the frame checking for size on my templates. I flipped over the foresail template which reduces the amount of Silkspan needed.

Next step is to start painting and tinting the Silkspan to look like canvas... David recommends mixing and thinning artists' tube acrylics, but this is expensive and will be almost all left over, so I am going to try my Tamiya acrylics on an offcut piece... my experience is that the paint will remain flexible after drying, so fingers crossed!
If anyone has tried this I would love to know how it turned out!
Thanks for looking in!
 
 

Thank you very much Steve, and Alan too! That means a lot... perhaps the old dog can learn a new trick!
Regards,
Bruce