MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
×
AON
-
Posts
2,815 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
AON reacted to Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Work on the foremast continues...
The upper bands are completed and holes drilled for their shackles and blocks. I still have to add eyes to the lower two bands.
I like to make up my spars so orienting the grain in different directions will minimize any chance of warping in the future. St. Roch needs four spars; a boom and gaff for the foresail, the cargo derrick, and the mainsail boom.
They are all here in the first picture... the main mast spars are built up, the foremast spars are cut to length and rounded, and the jaws are slotted into the gaff.
This picture shows how I made the jaws from one piece of wood for strength and alignment, and the slot I cut into the gaff...
The last picture is much like the first one except the gaff is trial fitted to the mast. It fits loosely due to the mast taper. Next I will add the remaining fittings to the spars, then I will finish the foremast and move onto the main.
I was going to use Vermont Maple wood stain as I have had good success with this representing fir in the past, but I need to head to the hardware store and get more! Also it is time to return to the silkspan and start making the sails!
Thanks to everyone following and checking in!
-
AON got a reaction from Mike Y in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
So the wife saw these wooden plant stands on Amazon and I said "I can make that out of my scraps cheaper".
So I did... I made a set... and I went one better and made a second set slightly taller.
They are collapsible for storage and reversible to vary the plant height.
What was it they said: If she doesn't find you handsome, you had better be handy!
Now back to sanding my hull.
-
AON got a reaction from Mike Y in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Year end update?
My build progress to date:
Only a few frames to go.
If you've been following you know I've also worked on the figurehead, bowsprit, jib boom and associated yards, the rudder and the main mast and tree.
But I am again distracted.
I volunteered my time to make a donor wall display for our local library.
They wanted something like this.
But I proposed this.
And I am presently sanding the leaves (yuk). The edges have been bevelled (45°). They will be stained (3 different stains for variety) and sealed.
I made card stock templates to locate the hangers so they each dangle at their proper angle.
2" synthetic manila rope for the main branch, 1" for the off shoots to be spliced in.
2 ounce waxed whipping will be used for the sailmaker's whipping to finish the one base end and common whipping for everything else to keep things tiddly!
-
AON got a reaction from fake johnbull in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from Mike Y in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from PaddyO in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
There is an easy way?????
🤔
-
AON got a reaction from PaddyO in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from Trussben in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
After getting through a multitude of terribly sunny, warm and blue sky days where I just had to force myself to sit out on the back patio, then having yet another health issue I am dealing with, I finally got down to the shop today.
I have my lower guides spot glued and clamped so I’ll be ready to go.
I have all but one of the main wale pieces dry fitted on the bench. The one piece needs to be remade. It is not perfect, but I am aware of my capabilities/limitations and can recognize when my “good enough” has been reached.
Now to get that last set remade and start getting them on the model!
-
AON reacted to Dr PR in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
You definitely need to put the hoops on the mast before adding details in the tops.
I assembled the mast on my schooner model with the hoops in place and the tops rigged. The boom and gaffs were laced to the sail off the mast, and then attached to the mast. Then I tied the gaff sails to the hoops. That was tight work!
I think it would be better to assemble the gaff sails to the boom and gaff, and tie the hoops to the sail. Then you can slip the hoops over the mast and attach the boom and gaff to the mast.
-
AON reacted to Keith Black in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
I highly recommend any off model mast work. Bruce. The more one can do off model the better.
-
AON got a reaction from Thukydides in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from gjdale in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
There is an easy way?????
🤔
-
AON got a reaction from Ronald-V in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from albert in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from Jared in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
There is an easy way?????
🤔
-
AON got a reaction from berhard in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from woodartist in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
I started with the lower most forward piece. Marked off the chamfer to fit to the stem post on both port and starboard pieces. Shaped the first one.... pretty good.
Shaped the second one... darn it, I did the inside rather than the outside. Made a new piece and did it correctly.
Tried to bend them with a new 30W large round head bender... wouldn't work.
Tried wetting it and then bending with the new tool... still wouldn't work.
My guess is 30W is inadequate heat for the thickness of the part.
I soaked them in boiling water and clamped them onto the frames.
I'll use my soldering iron barrel tomorrow to put that little bit more bend to them to seat properly.
A member of our club gifted me a Areopiccola bending head but it doesn't fit my irons.
The irons have a small threaded hole
The Areopiccola head is 10mm diameter and split to slide into a barrel with a 10mm hole.
I need to find a soldering iron that will accommodate it. With adequate heat it should work.
-
AON got a reaction from woodartist in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON reacted to Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Well, the mast is not painted yet, but I am in the process of setting the mast bands...
The picture shows a photo of St. Roch ready to depart on her maiden voyage, and the bands are clearly shown.
My notes on the photo tell me what line goes where, and the photo appears to show the standing rigging stays looping around the mast in the traditional manner, while the shrouds terminate on eyes in the lowest band.
I am using styrene tube and strip for the bands... they have to fit over the truck, and styrene snugs down nicely once it softens with styrene cement, which is basically acetone!
Here is a portion of the 1928 rigging plan... the photo conforms to the drawing, which is nice, and dimensions are given allowing me to accurately locate each mast band, again, very nice!
In the 1930s St. Roch carried a gaff foresail, when her rig was changed in 1944 the gaff was removed.
I am thinking that, in order to get the foresail hoops onto the mast, it might be advantageous to make the furled sail attached to the boom and gaff off the model, then pass that assembly onto the mast before adding any rigging... thoughts on this are appreciated!
Regards,
Bruce
-
AON got a reaction from Beckmann in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON got a reaction from druxey in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Getting back into it and it is slow going right now.
Soaking the pairs in boiling water then clamp them to the frames, one on each side of the ship (port and starboard).
Once dry they come off and the soldering iron gets used to remove the spring back.
Then they get glued and clamped in place.
I am about to lay the wale planks over the flat area, no bending, so that should go quicker.
I managed to get the gifted Areopiccola bending head adapted to my soldering iron.
I cut off the two tabs, filed and sanded it flat and no sharp edges.
Drilled with a #29 bit and tapped 8-32 thread, then inserted a screw, cut off the head and filed that edge.
Then just screwed them together. (Thank you Mort!)
-
AON reacted to Lecrenb in St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
Moving on to the foremast, first I double checked the alignment and rake with respect to the main mast, then I simulated the wedges with the octagonal collar at the deck level. After painting the mast it will be covered with a silkspan coat.
'A' and 'F' are aft and forward, so I can maintain the mast alignment.
Next I built the two pin rails, they are test fitted in the picture. They carry the lifts and halliards for the foresail boom, gaff, and jib, so they need to be substantial.
The reinforced collar higher up supports the foresail boom jaws. The 1928 plans show goosenecks on the boom and gaff, but all photos show jaws and parrels, so that is what I will model.
St. Roch today has buff coloured lower masts, but photos clearly show the same dark colour over their entire lengths. Here is the lower foremast as displayed at the Vancouver Maritime Museum.
Once I am satisfied there will be a bit more touching up, then the mast will get painted, as close to natural Douglas Fir as I can manage.
After that the bands on the upper part of the mast will get added.
Thanks for checking in!
Bruce
-
AON reacted to Some Idea in Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
Thanks @dvm27 now thats a nice idea and looks very subtle too
-
AON reacted to druxey in Le Rochefort by No Idea - 1/24th Scale - First POF Build
Just what I was going to suggest!
-
AON reacted to Mike Y in Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
I got it in a local craft shop and had no idea it is somehow rare.
Can’t find it on Amazon, but it is an Arda brand. It is an Italian company, so doubt they make an imperial version.
Here is their catalogue, see page 32.
I mostly use the 30cm version, but it depends on the scale you are working in.
https://www.arda.it/cataloghi/2025/ARDA - DISEGNO 2025.pdf
But I found alternatives! Search for the ”graph ruler plastic” and you will find some others with the same idea - graduated in both X and Y axis.
Maybe Druxey can shed some light on the intended usage of such rulers in the graphic / drafting world 😊
Our Emblem ®
