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von stetina

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Everything posted by von stetina

  1. I agree with Andy. Great advice. I spent a good part of my life custom painting Harleys. The paint went from lacquer to urethanes, and finally to water based acrylic. As I just couldn't tolerate wearing a mask, working in a booth [due to the size of the parts I needed a walk in booth], or wearing my air fed hood when airbrushing all day [actually all night] I'm a bit toasted. I ended up pretty sick. After 5 years away from the paints and living off the land out in the country I'm recovering well. Don't breath it in man! Although the water based acrylic will mainly be a problem as a dust. Just blow yer' nose after a good session at the brush! WOW ! Technicolor! Von Stetina
  2. Hi Norman, Yep. Not sure what you mean by top down though. Are you refering to the running rigging? Bruce
  3. Hi Grant and John, Yes Grant, that's what I'm worried about....knocking a yard silly. That makes great sense John. I had visualized working bottom to top with all of it as I go, but I see that you're right as I think about it. I guess I can secure the yards as I need to with temporary lines. I'm rigging my standing rigging from stern to bow as the mizzen stay runs to a bullseye on the back of the mainmast that is just above the pumps and runs down to the deck. The area is one deck below the 80 foot poop. It took a couple of tries to figure out that the ringbolt needed to come back out of the deck, a bit of a shock. I have what is called a stencil burner. I slipped the bent tip in under the pump to get to it, the heat broke the CA glue loose. I rigged that end then put it back down in there and ran it back up. The bowsprit shrouds are all chain, and are on. I found chain down to 40 links per inch, still a bit oversize but looks good. Bruce
  4. I might be able to leave braces untill later, but I don't like the idea of having the yards moving around that loose, not sure as I've never done rigging before. This ship has belaying down in some tuff areas, I see the ratlines could be restrictive. However doing all those knots having to work around the braces seems like it would be an issue. I suppose the yards could be tied out of the way whille I do the ratlines. Von Stetina
  5. I have my lower shrouds on and I'm thinking of putting on my ratlines next. I read Underhill waited untill after the running rigging was on as it gives more room to belay. As braces will be going over where I need to work doesn't it make more sense to do this now? I'd be interested in hearing any thoughts on this. Thanks. Von Stetina building clipper Lightning 1/8 scale
  6. I was informed by Druxey, a very accomplished modeler on this site, that beeswax is slightly acidic and may cause deterioration down the line. I was told to use conservators wax and am looking into it. In this thread I was told that Longridge used it. Underhill used shellac. This looks OK on my standing rigging test. All of these would knock some fuzzies down I guess, but they should be burned off. A spirit lamp with alcohol works great as it's a cool flame. I've been using a barbacue lighter too, works great. By the way...the linen would make a very good slow fuse. Be careful! Von Stetina
  7. I give mine a pull before taking it out of my homemade machine that looks like gypsies stopped by to make it for me. Works great though! I can feel it reach it's length and stop. My machine works best with a bobbin. I then hang it with a 1/2 inch nut on the end, or whatevers handy untill I need it. I give it a little pull again before I put it on. I'm having good results. My shop varies a lot in temp and humidity as it's wood heated and I see no difference in tension. Von Stetina
  8. Hi Druxey, Thanks, I'll check it out. Hope it's not too expensive. Speaking of expensive, the shipping prices are killing me! I'm hoping to use what I've got at hand though. Haven't put anything on the model yet as I'm still undecided. Bruce
  9. I'm using linen for the largest standing rigging, and Egyptian cotton for the rest. Some DMC Cordennete cotton maybe too, not sure yet. So far experiments with shellac look OK on the running rigging. I'm thinning it a lot. Im yet to try it on the running rigging thread. I'll see tonight. I'll try thinning the beeswax further, but it hasn't soaked in as I've wanted yet. we'll see. Von Stetina
  10. Well I guess I won't post that picture, seems my build log is gone. I'll check back in another time to see what's up with this, maybe the sites not done. No time to find all the facts about the sites change. von stetina
  11. I'l be posting a photo of the Lightnings figurehead soon. It's rotting away in a leaky garage in Australia. Apparently the guy won't share it with the public. The guy must be a real piece of work. von stetina
  12. I've read in the Underhill book that he coats his rigging with shellac as a preserbvative. Do any of you do this? I'm working at 1/8 scale and beesway hides the rope detail. Thinned shellac sounds like a good idea. It seems to me that the rigging would be less subject to humidity etc. von stetina
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