von stetina
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Everything posted by von stetina
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I used oversize holes that could be covered by the mast coats and used shims. A touch of elmer's glue on the shims for easy removal if needed. I used a level on the hull and a plumb bob to align the masts. A sinch. I wouldn't relie on the rigging to correct earlier flaws, it puts undue stress and will almost certainly revert. Get it right early on, it's worth the time. I've done most things two or three times to get things right. Now as I do my standing rigging it's pretty easy. Still did a lot over though. Von Stetina building clipper Lightning 1/8 scale for 7 years now........
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Also, the copper is higher by a foot or so at the stern of clippers as the bow planes up at speed causing the stern to settle. Sail was reduced on the mizzen to help this. Von Stetina -
Flickering lights
von stetina replied to AntonyUK's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
You can find ready made things like this for model RRs. Not topo expencive either. Doesn't give the satisfaction of building it yourself though. Von Stetina -
I found that when I coppered my clipper Lightning that the copper layout turned out to be very simple. The hull shape of a clipper is very much different than a ship with fuller ends. The clipper's shape greatly simplified the layout. Try laying out the copper by putting down long thin strips cut from wide masking tape, strips about 1/8 wide say. This will help you work it out visually. You will see that the belts will lay vey simply and few in number. Fewer than in the books. I tried to match the books and found it made little sense to squeeze so many belts in there, I doubt many real clippers over complicated things and used up extra materials doing it. I hope my info isn't redundant, I've not read this whole conversation. Can't wait to see your model of this famous tea clipper. Von Stetina building clipper Lightning 1/8 scale
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Microlux Tilt Arbor Saw Problems
von stetina replied to capnharv2's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I fight constantly with this same dang saw and hate the thing. If you buy a thicker slotting blade it may help. They are actualy jewlers slotting blades and available in many sizes and tooth numbers.. I get mine from MSC industrial supply for a great price and fast delivery. I've also found the plastic inserts to get hot enough to melt slightly. I've made various plates. The blade deforming under RPM while cutting is a real issue with this saw. My saw is now sounding terminal after 4 years of use. I probably use it more often and harder than intended, but really......... This saw has it's problems, not to mention the thickness sander they sell. I will never again buy machines fron this company, they were rude about helping with the thickness sander. I finally jusy modified it enough to make it get by. I'll save up for a Byrnes unit of each. Right now I'm using a 6 inch slotting blade on my larger old saw. Does everything way better. Von Stetina -
Thanks Jersey City Frankie, Did you find my website OK? Bruce
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I guess I have a copy of the book like yours is John. Hope we hear back from Marc. Bruce
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I'm bummed out. I was just getting used to Poly-scale after a life of Floquil use! The thinness of the coverage didn't hide fine detail. Another company for RR colors is Scalecoat, but it stinks even worse. I've used water based acrylics for some of my artwork, even under Automotive clear coats since 1976 or so. Not sure what brand I'll use for hobby type work now, but I'm going to stick with water based acrylics. After a lifetime of solvent based paint use it's time to clean out! The auto paint I used to use in my custom painting business gave me some NASTY hangovers! Von Stetina
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Wait a minute! There's the bumpkins for the 4 tacks too! I have to say, this is an interesting ship. [i also have other questions that this article brings up.] If the mainsail was spread by swinging bumpkins .....what about the foresail. I wonder what they did? Besides, as I think about it wouldn't this sail be the one most used going free? Jesey City Frankie, my web site is www.vonstetinaartworks.com Modeler 12, There are rigging problems like that. Another example is that when the crossjack yard is braced up sharp the yard's brace fouls the rear-most main backstay, and so would have been attached not on the crossjack yardarm, but farther in towards the center. Plans aren't always accurate. I very much want mine to be. All of this is very important to me. Especially as I'm modeling a clipper, they rarely are modeled accurately. I feel the American clipper period is very important, it represents a huge change in marine architecture. Bruce
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Thanks John and everyone, I think I've got it from here now, unless someone turns up a photo or something. Bruce
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Hi guys, I'm not getting e-mail notification of replies, so am a bit slow getting back. The swinging bumpkins would be just long enough to reach out to the outer corners of the sail to spread it then. I think... What do you think? Would the front corner give an OK working point leverage-wise for the lines? It would draw the corners down though. I guess in the end I'll have to put on a dummy sail and experiment for length and mounting point and later correct the plan. Also I'll need a belaying point. The whole setup raises questions! As this ship used these they must have been in voque for a time, unless McKay was the first. Funny no other ships of this era have this, at least that I can find in photos. I also have several plans of other clippers. There is so little info on this period, especially photos [ or deguerriotype? however it's spelt.]This ship was the last of 4 McKay built for the James Baines Co. of Liverpool as emigrant ships sailing to Melbourne. They were Lightning [my model is being rigged now], Champion of the Seas, James Baines, then this huge blunter one. The Crothers book American Built Clipper Ships doesn't mention these either. Not much on rigging. By the way, I found a well drawn 1/8 scale lines plan in Bergens Sjofartsmuseum. I'll need to check out the lines carefully though and redraw them. Bruce
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Hi John, it's a real problem, what they looked like and where?! It does seem like the front corner of the upper main channel might work. She had triangular lower studding sails. So maybe a boom something like a short studding sail boom. This sail info is mentioned right after the bumpkins. This is the sort of piece that would be a nice touch on a model of this ship if I can be accurate. Druxey, if you want to see what a bonified bumpkin looks like I'll try and get a photo of my neighbor feeding his Spotted [unintelligible Southern drawl name here] Hog Dogs. [some kind of mangey hound.] I have to speak very slowly and with small words a lot here. The accent is so thick sometimes it's like being in a foreign country! The converations on this site a real blessing to me. Bruce
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Hi Guys, Druxey, there are a lot of folks like that wandering around my area in North Florida! They mostly talk about hawg dawgs and how they should grab an ear right away. A reporter called Duncan Mac Lean reported on clippers launched in Boston and is used as an historical source frequently. I think for the Boston Daily Atlas. His articles were in depth on the better known clippers. On line these articles are under a site that I can't seem to post, it keeps disappearing when I go to post. They are put up by a guy named Bruzelius. Some of his articles are included in the book Search for Speed Under Sail by Chapelle, but not this ship. However a look see will covcince you of his know how. I have spotted an unusual use of a term or two. Hi Jersey City Frankie, Thank you for your input. As I refer to above it is possible the reporter may have confused a term, or used it in a way particular to his time or location, but I don't think so. I have the Underhill book too, this sounds different. Also this book is lacking on info for the American clippers. Most info regards Iron and steel ships. It's a great book though. Bruce
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The article states that she had bumpkins for her four tacks, then mentions the swinging bumpkins to spread the sail when going free in light winds. I'm not sure what "free" means. Could you help? Unfortunately this ship was not sharp lined like McKay's other clippers, and actually was more of a huge packet. Her heavy rig allowed fast passages though. I think she got skipped over a bit fame-wise as she set no famous records. In this article she sounds like a magnificent ship visually inside and out. She has an interesting deck arrangement similar to Lightning's. There are so few photos, and I don't trust most paintings. As a marine artist I can catagorically state that most clipper paintings are not so hot. Bruce
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Thanks John, I guess that makes the most sense to me too, maybe folding out from near the cathead? Unless I can find evidence I suppose a common sense guess will have to do. Hate it though, maybe it would be better to leave it off than to guess. Bruce
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Hi John, The main yard was 115 long. A real whopper! That's what I figured too. Where they mounted, how long they were, and how thick have me puzzled. Maybe at the same level as the catheads? Clippers mounted what were called wisker booms there to spread the jib boom rigging that folded up in port. I wish there was a photo, the ship was around a long time. Bruce
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I ran across this term researching to make a set of plans for the clipper Donald M'Kay. The article written at her launch states that she has swinging bumpkins for the clews of the mainsail. Does anyone know what these might have looked like? Von Stetina
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I use a pilers with a smooth side to the jaws narrow enough to fit what I need. I gring to size cheap pliers with smooth jaws, or hemostats. I clamp the wire at the bend and give it a tap with a small hammer. It gives a sharp bend. Von Stetina
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Hi Paul, I've been following your build since the beginning with great interest, you are doing a really fine job. I have to admit to being partial to the German ships. I've been looking for a mention of what plans you are using and must have missed it. They must be very good, could you fill me in? Von Stetina [bruce]
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Homemade Rudder Hinges
von stetina replied to lamarvalley's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
If you heat to dull red or almost that hot and let cool you will have soft pliable brass. [aneal Von Stetina -
Most common drill bit sizes
von stetina replied to Lord Robster's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I'm building a clipper at 1/8 scale and do other work at HO scale. I've litterally gone through hundreds of #80 bits in the last 4 years. Next most used would be #78, and #75. Definately buy the more expensive USA made bits. Worth every penny. They don't dull out or break as easily, I can drill over 100 holes with one #80 bit. Von Stetina -
Hi John, As usual your work is so fine. It's nice to see someone else doing 1/8 scale rigging at the same time as I am. I'm getting into it too. Not as bad as I feared. Although I'm ready to do ratlines, and I'm wondering if I'll get bogged down. I've decided to put them on now, instead of waiting. My lower standing rigging has been through several temperature and humidity extremes and not changed so I'm having at it. Putting up topmasts now. I'm using Londonderry linen and Egyptian cotton. Love watching your build. Bruce
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Coppering wear
von stetina replied to drtrap's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I assume the problem is the dark areas. I had a similar problem and decided to not seal my copper as once it is you're stuck. The only option would be to pull the offenders off, and replace with ones of the same finish. I've done the pull out and replace thing. It wasn't bad, but practice on a test piece first as it was a very delicate thing to do to not cause further damage. I don't know if it would have gone well if I'd used CA glue. Then it might take a peeling motion that ruins the overlaping edges. Try it out if you need to on a test and see if you can pull out instead of peeling. You might luck out. I simply re- cleaned the bad spots. It's been several months now and it's all looking the same. If the difference is too bad on the cleaned spots the whole hull needs to be re-cleaned. I used Brasso, then an autobody pre-cleaner for auto painting to remove it's residue. No sealer will keep it shiney forever. Von Stetina -
Roughening the two surfaces to be joined is a big help in the strength dept if you can do it. It gives what is called "tooth." The joint will be much stronger. Von Stetina
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Or black paint was cheap! Von Stetina
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