tasanhalas Posted May 5, 2015 #1 Posted May 5, 2015 Hi, I'm Duarte from Lisbon, Portugal, and this will by my very first build! Just bought the glues (CA and titebond) and I'm now working out a something to hold the model while it's being worked on.. This will be a slow, long project, But I bet I'll need a lot of help as I've never done anything like this before Thanks in advance!
tasanhalas Posted May 5, 2015 Author #2 Posted May 5, 2015 And for my first question, after opening the box and making shure every big wood piece was present I went throught the instruction and noticed two things:1) the first step shows the keel with a wood strip around it (Strip) but what piece is this? Can´t seem to find it.. there are several long wood pieces and 2) tried to fit the frames in place, but they sit several mm above the top of keel, where they shoul be flat. Waht's the best way to correct this? Thanks
sygreen Posted May 6, 2015 #3 Posted May 6, 2015 Hi Duarte, I am presently building the Scotland and can offer help. Although this is also my first build, I have learned a lot along the way. The wood strip is one of the square walnut strips. It fits the depth of the false keel . The bulwarks need to be flush with the top of the false keel. I had to file down the slots deeper to make them fit. If they are too tight to fit you may have to file the sides of the slots. But be careful as they must not be loose. They should be snug. Keep asking questions , post some pictures as you go along so we may see your work and maybe see things that you may miss. Also, check out all the build logs on this site as they will give you great suggestions that you may run into. tasanhalas 1
harbm Posted May 6, 2015 #4 Posted May 6, 2015 (edited) welcome tasanhalas, I'm doing the same ship too. looking forward to follow your log. (check out mine too!) Edited May 6, 2015 by harbm tasanhalas 1
tasanhalas Posted May 13, 2015 Author #6 Posted May 13, 2015 Assuming this 2 pieces with 330mm x 3mm x ~3mm are the #12, right?
tasanhalas Posted May 13, 2015 Author #7 Posted May 13, 2015 Used only one of the strip, cut it in two (9.5 + 320.5mm). And glued them. And now to file the edges
tasanhalas Posted May 14, 2015 Author #9 Posted May 14, 2015 Whats the bes way to align the bulkheads with the hull? I tried filing down the joints as the manual says, but this way is almost impossible to get the right height :s
tasanhalas Posted May 14, 2015 Author #10 Posted May 14, 2015 Have not glued the blukheads yet but I was trying the deck over them and its floating about 8mm above them.. Is this supposed to happen? I pushed a little in the middle to see if it bent, but started to hear some crackling and stopped
tasanhalas Posted May 19, 2015 Author #11 Posted May 19, 2015 Now this was a trick part, the instruction are awful, the drawing of the deck doesn't match the deck! it isn´t centered its off by some mm and the width isn´t equal... but I did has they said and glued the guides.. surprise surprise when I tried to fit the deck the one in the back didn´t match...So ended up shaving some of the wood so they fit. And now as you can see the bulkheads are visible from above on both sides, so not a center problem... Instructions are badly written and the pieces badly cut.. this does not help
sygreen Posted May 20, 2015 #12 Posted May 20, 2015 yes, that is what happened to me. You have to sand or file it down so it is flush with the deck tasanhalas 1
tasanhalas Posted May 20, 2015 Author #13 Posted May 20, 2015 yes, that is what happened to me. You have to sand or file it down so it is flush with the deck I'm just worried if I can keep the shape while sanding it down
sygreen Posted May 20, 2015 #14 Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) I would read ahead as you will have to curve the bulkheads towards the bow. I used the shape of the deck as a general guide to get the curve correct. This allowed me to get the bulkhead flush with the deck It seemed to work for me. Edited May 20, 2015 by sygreen tasanhalas 1
sygreen Posted May 20, 2015 #15 Posted May 20, 2015 (edited) You will also have to clip the walnut strips flush to the deck edge, of course. I used a Dremel and sanded it down . Was a lot easier You are doing great, just keep it up Edited May 20, 2015 by sygreen tasanhalas 1
tasanhalas Posted May 25, 2015 Author #17 Posted May 25, 2015 Well now this was totally on me and on my rush.. I've been away from the work table for some days and was now beginning to sand the bulkheads to match the deck and noticied this...Tried to unglue the deck but it's no possible... whats the best way work around it? I thought of 3 solutions, please give me your view in this:1) Just let it be and glue the stern fillers (#17) on their intended position, simply cut the right side smaller, leaving an empty space between the left one and the space the keel should be (which can later be filled with pieces of wood later on if necessary) 2) Increase the hole in the deck to match the keel and glue the stern fillers around the keel 3)Glue the left stern filler in place. Alter the right one (sanding it's back) so it too can be placed in it's right position but with the keel now running behind it, and then fill the space like in 1) .. Any help would be appreciated ... Thanks
sygreen Posted May 25, 2015 #18 Posted May 25, 2015 The problem you have is the the hole on the deck for the 2 elevated bulkheads is mal-aligned . I guess it is too late to widen the opening as it is all glued. Did you use CA glue or PVA? PVA is water based and can be loosened. I would check the web site for solutions to ungluing the deck. Remember that the entire deck is now mal-aligned and ungluing is the best solution. If it will destroy the deck by ungluing, all you can do is widen the opening. The rudder follows the line of the keel so the entire deck will then not be symmetrical Maybe someone else has a better solution for this t
tasanhalas Posted May 25, 2015 Author #19 Posted May 25, 2015 I used titebond original, so water should have loosened it, but I tried to no avail... both with water + X-acto and even with a paint solvent... maybe soaking it would work but I don´t think it would be very kind to the rest of the structure...Yeah..
tasanhalas Posted May 26, 2015 Author #21 Posted May 26, 2015 Good to know I was right, I actually considered it.. I think I'll go with 3). this way I keep it symmetrical
tasanhalas Posted December 18, 2015 Author #22 Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) Well this is where I'm at, and I have a question, should I continue and glue one more line of laths between the end of the curvature and lath 12 on the keel? (on the stern and middle sections) this way making it homogeneous and without a rift or leave in like it is?Thanks Edited December 18, 2015 by tasanhalas
tasanhalas Posted October 19, 2016 Author #23 Posted October 19, 2016 (edited) After a lot of time, work and frustration. This is where I'm at, facing a big decision: Sails or no sails? Edited October 19, 2016 by tasanhalas Landlubber Mike and GrandpaPhil 2
GrandpaPhil Posted July 10, 2019 #24 Posted July 10, 2019 (edited) Sails! I like putting sails on mine! Edited July 10, 2019 by GrandpaPhil Building: 1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit) 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans) 1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
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