Swift bowsprit brass band

[Cabbie]

On the end of my Swift bowsprit there is a brass fitting which they call the bowsprit top reinforcement.

Do i make a cylinder from the 3mm brass supplied, solder the join. Then cut the ring off an eye hook and solder it on to the cylinder and then attach a ring and solder its join.

Thanks Chris

[DocBlake]

Hi, Chris!

 

That's exactly how I did each of those fittings on "Swift".  You don't have to solder the ring to the brass cylinder, though.  Just drill a hole and use a whole eye bolt.  If you plan to continue with model ship building, do what I did:  buy a drill press attachment for your Dremel tool.  I use it all the time.  Well worth the investment.  http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dremel-Drill-Press-220-01/15638688

 

Dave

[Cabbie]

Thanks Doc Haven't got around to the Dremel yet, might opt for a Proxon tool.

Need to make a cylinder first. Can you suggest the correct type of snips for cutting the brass?

Will just a small set on tin snips do the job?

Thanks Chris

[DocBlake]

Any kind of snips will work.  If you have a propane torch, heat the brass to red hot to anneal it.  It will soften and bend much easier.  You 'll probably be able to cut it with a pair of household scissors.

 

Dave

[Cabbie]

Thanks Doc Sometimes i have trouble seeing the cutting line because the snips are too bulky.

Speaking of soldering something like this would have to be handy?   Chris

http://www.hobbytools.com.au/helping-hands-magnifier-w-soldering-station-led-light/

[hornet]

Hi Cabbie

 

Welcome from a fellow Aussie. I have to concur with DocBlake in regard to just drilling a hole and using the whole eyebolt. I might add you may wish to consider buying a sheet or two of copper (quite cheap on ebay) and using it instead of brass sheeting. I have found that is easier to bend, blackens easily as well and is very easy to silver solder. I have done a number of jobs where I have silver soldered copper sheeting to brass wire or tubing. The pic below shows some scratch built inner and outer stunsail boom rings. The joins arrowed in yellow have been silver soldered ( brass tubing to copper sheeting) the ones arrowed in red were drilled through the copper and directly into the dowel. I found that the silver soldering blackened well using Birchwood Casey Brass Black.

 

[Cabbie]

Good Evening Hornet Thanks for the welcome Thanks for helping me sort this out.

Are you saying that the metal on the end with the 90 degree bend is a tube? What diameter is it?

What thickness is the copper sheet?

It looks like i have a lot of practicing in front of me.

Thanks Chris

[hornet]

Hi again Cabbie

 

Yes the outer stunsail boom rings are attached with brass tubing (1mm) which I bought cheaply on ebay. However you could do the same thing with brass wire. The copper sheeting I used was about 0.2 mm thick. I can't be exact as my vernier callipers aren't the new fangled digital type and I got it quite a while ago and don't remember the thicknesses. However even the thicker stuff bends very easily and can be moulded into all sorts of shapes. I have two thicknesses of copper sheet, one is a little thicker, probably 0.3 - 0.4mm. Both are good and easier to use (in my opinion) that brass. Silver soldering isn't hard and adds another dimension to the hobby.

[Cabbie]

Thanks again Hornet

I will get myself organized and start learning. Chris

[jhearl]

Another technique you may want to consider is simply making the bands from paper. Use a sheet of regular typing paper and cut off a strip as wide as the band you need. Apply a thin coat of white glue (Elmer's) and wrap the band around the spar. Make as many wraps as you need to get the desired thickness. Then you can paint the band black once the glue is dry. If you need an eye, simply drill a hole and insert an eye made from brass wire. 

 

Cheers -

John

[Cabbie]

Thanks jhearl That's another way of doing it, would look the same. I have a gas torch now so I will give that a go

and see if I can conquer it. Thanks Chris