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jhearl

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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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  • Website URL
    http://modelboatyard.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. Since your profile doesn't list where you are located, I don't know if you want to buy from a company in the US, but one reasonable source of small bits is Drills and Cutters. https://drillsandcutters.com/surface-treated-drills-metric/ They will sell individual bits in any quantity you order although standard packaging is for 12 bits. Their quality is good and prices are reasonable. I've bought bits from Amazon and got some that were just horrible, so you're taking your chances with them. Cheers - John
  2. This is not such a difficult thing to do. First, buy some 2mm diameter brass rod. One good source is Scale Hardware https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/the-metal-shop/products/9863-2mm-diameter-round-brass-rod Cut off a short piece and chuck it in your Dremel. Mount the Dremel in a vise or some sort of holder so you can use both hands to hold a small file. Use a triangular file to score the groove. (The groove really doesn't have to be semi-circular.) Slice off a 1mm wide piece with a jeweler's saw. You will probably need to run the cut side over a file or some sandpaper to make it flat. Center-punch the slice, clamp it in a vise (use some scrap wood to protect the edges of the groove) and drill the required size hole using your drill press. Sheave number one, done. Well, your attempt at sheave number one will be done. It may take making several to get two that are good enough. But seriously, this just isn't that hard to do. My two cents, anyway. John
  3. Ebay - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=midwest+sharpie&_sacat=0
  4. Click on your name at the top right of the page. Choose "Settings" from the drop-down menu. On the new page that appears, click on "Signature" on the left side and there you can add the desired information. Cheers - John
  5. Those buckets are for fish, not bailing! 🙂
  6. No - the inspiration boat, Miss Violet, is at a marina near Kent Narrows, Maryland.
  7. This is a Chesapeake Bay charter fishing boat. They charge "by the head" hence the name. The scale is 1:16 - the model is about 32" long overall. It is not a model of a specific boat, but I was inspired by a real boat named Miss Violet moored at Kent Island, MD. There are progress pics from the build on my website - modelboatyard.com
  8. Thanks! The buckets were turned from ordinary 1/2" PVC plumbing pipe. Not exactly fun stuff to turn, but cheap and readily available.
  9. Although The Workboats of Core Sound is a nice book with some good photography, there's very little information about shrimpers in there. I don't think you'd find much of use. The book focuses more on stories of the fishermen and boat builders of that area and predominantly on long-haul seine netting. It's an interesting book if you like reading about fishing practices and smaller workboats. Wye River Models has some very simplistic plans for a Core Sound Sinknetter that interests me, so that was my reason for getting the book. Not a lot of helpful information in there even for those, but I enjoyed the book anyway. I had hoped to make a trip down there last fall to see the real thing, but I was, unfortunately, defeated by the hurricane. One of these days I'll get down there. Cheers - John
  10. If you think you'll be doing a lot of soldering in your modeling career, you might want to consider a third-hand device like jewelers use. I bought one several years back and I use it a lot. They are quite expensive (about $150), but hugely superior to those cheap ones you see with alligator clips. It also makes a great general-purpose third hand for use when stropping blocks and many other purposes. I've never regretted buying mine. No question I'd be using it for something like this. https://www.riogrande.com/product/grs-benchmate-double-third-hand-soldering-station/502042
  11. You might try Hobby Metal Kits - https://hobbymetalkits.com/t/cold-finished They don't carry metric sizes but maybe you can find something useful. I've purchased brass and aluminum from them before and found them reliable. Cheers - John
  12. Sacks and bales are pretty easy to make from real cloth. Bales are the easiest - fold the cloth around some suitable filler material, glue it together on the bottom of the bale, and tie some rope around it. Sacks are easily made on a sewing machine. Sew three sides with the machine, turn it inside-out, stuff the pocket with cotton puffs or rice or whatever makes sense, and sew the end shut by hand. Below are a couple of examples from boats I've built: Hope that helps - John
  13. I have not seen these blocks in person so I can't say how they compare to Syren blocks, but ME is selling some nice looking ones now. https://modelexpo-online.com/Falkonet--F20B1--Single-Block-2mm-Pear-Wood--Pack-of-10-pcs_p_1921.html Cheers - John
  14. I have had an 8050 for a couple of years now (in addition to other Dremels) and generally like it, but there are a couple of things I find annoying. First, when you turn it on, it always starts at the middle speed. If you want it to be slower or faster, you have to push the up or down buttons once you've turned it on. If you're in the middle of a job and you need to turn it off briefly, you have to reset the speed again when you turn it back on. The other annoying feature is the light. Seems like it would be a beneficial thing, but if you're holding the tool such that the light is shining in your eyes, it can make it very difficult to see what you're working on. I wound up covering the light on mine with some tape. I've never used a Dremel tool for 3-1/2 hours continuously so I can't say whether it would work that long. When I'm done using it, it just goes back in the charger and it's always charged up next time I need it. Cheers - John

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