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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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  • Location
    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. This image of the main topmast from Ronnberg's Smuggler plans may be of some help: Ronnberg calls the lower line the "main top mast stay" and the upper line he calls the "main topgallant stay." In the notes he says that "At this period, "topgallant stay" was a colloquial term for "topmast spring stay" on fishing schooners." Smuggler dates to 1877. Note that the main top mast stay terminates in an eye that is seated over the shrouds and backstays. The upper line also terminates in an eye that is seated over the topsail halyard band. The forward ends of both those lines terminate at eyestraps on the topmast cap - topgallant stay on the port side, topmast stay on the starboard side - as Chapelle shows in his illustration. Hope that helps some. John
  2. Given the fact that different computers reproduce colors that can vary widely, it's impossible to tell from a photo whether or not the color you see on your hull is the same color I see on my laptop screen. So I wouldn't comment on whether or not it's "right" although it looks very orange to me. I have been using a rattle can paint for the bottoms of my Chesapeake Bay workboat model hulls for the past few years. It's Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover "flat red primer" which has a reddish-brown color. It's only about $4 a can at Walmart, so you might give it a try on some scrap. Cheers - John
  3. I"m not sure if you are aware, but if you click on any image to open it, you will see some icons at the top of the window. There's one that looks like a circle with an "i" inside it. If you click on that icon, it will bring up comments on the right side of the image where he explains what's going on in each image.
  4. Bob - Thanks for the nice compliments, but if you want to see a truly beautiful model of Smuggler, take a look at the one built by Bob Steinbrunn. Truly amazing! Cheers - John
  5. Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category= I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder. One other thing that has not been mentioned so far is the weight of the larger lathes. I don't have room in my shop to keep the lathe set up all the time. I have to store it under a workbench. Bringing out the Sherline is no big deal, but one of the larger lathes can weigh upwards of 1oo pounds! I sure as heck wouldn't be moving that thing around. Also, as others have said, if you buy the Sherline, absolutely buy the long bed. I made the mistake of buying the short bed and quickly came to regret it. It's possible to upgrade later, but it's 3 times more expensive than buying it up front. Definitely check the prices at https://www.discountcampus.com/ They are an authorized Sherline distributor and, in fact, anything you buy gets shipped directly from Sherline anyway and carries their full warranty. Cheers - John
  6. American Beauty makes a tweezer-style hand piece that uses metal electrodes. Very expensive, unfortunately, but they don't break and allow you to get into very tight places. See an example here: https://americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Tweezer-Systems/99/features Cheers - John
  7. I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money. My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small. Hope that helps - John
  8. Ab Hoving is a member of the forum, so you might want to send him a PM. https://modelshipworld.com/profile/31631-ab-hoving/ Cheers - John
  9. Thanks for the reply. Pretty much what I figured but just wanted to check since my knowledge of this period is close to zero. Cheers - John
  10. I am currently building a model of a replica of the shallop that John Smith used to explore the Chesapeake Bay in 1607. The boat is 30 feet long. The replica the model is based on has a Danforth anchor in it, but I know that's incorrect. I don't have any knowledge of boats in the 17th century but I'm sure there are members who do. What kind of small anchor would be appropriate for that size boat in that period? Thanks in advance - John
  11. I have to say I love your website! I went through every build with delight! Thanks for sharing your journey and your craft!

    1. jhearl


      Hey Eric -


      Thanks for letting me know. I'm glad you found it enjoyable. I appreciate  your feedback.


      Cheers -


  12. This cutaway model of the stern section of a Chesapeake Bay round-stern workboat is based on plans in Workboats of Smith Island by Paula Johnson. I built a full model of the boat back in 2017 but I always thought it would be interesting to build a cutaway of the stern to show how the boat was constructed. It was a short project - just two weeks - but it was a lot of fun. The scale is 1:16. There are images of the construction process here - http://modelboatyard.com/rscutaway.html
  13. looks like a wonderful tool for slicing off the ends of your fingers! 😰
  14. I own the Sherline mill so I guess I'll weigh in with a few things to consider. Before I do, though, if you don't already own a metal lathe, I'd recommend making that your first purchase over a mill. You will use it FAR more often. That aside, the main thing to consider between the Sherline and a mini-mill is the size. I sometimes find the Sherline to be a bit small for some things I'd like to do. But I simply don't have room in my shop for a larger mill. The mini-mill offers more travel in all three axes than the Sherline and that could occasionally be useful. At the time I bought my mill, Sherline didn't offer larger and taller columns, but they do now, so that would be something to consider. On the other hand, the large mini-mills are MUCH heavier. The one Micromark sells weighs 110 pounds. There's no chance I could get that up on a cabinet by myself or even get it out of the box! As for power, I have not found any limitation with the Sherline. I'm not trying to hog out 1/4" deep cuts in steel with a half-inch cutter, of course. On the other hand, if I needed some deep cut in steel, I could do it with the Sherline - it just might take a little longer. For ship modeling, it's not likely you're going to need a lot of power and you're probably going to be cutting more brass and wood than you are steel. One feature I like on the Sherline that I don't believe is available on the MM mill is the ability to rotate the headstock by 90 degrees. I'm not talking about rotating the column - just the headstock. When I make propellers, I use this feature to cut slots in the hub. There's probably a way to do that without rotating the headstock but it seems to me it would require a more difficult setup. If you decide to go with Sherline, you might want to compare prices at Discount Campus - http://www.discountcampus.com/ I've bought all my Sherline equipment through them because they offer a better price. They are an authorized reseller and, in fact, the equipment winds up getting shipped directly from Sherline in any case. Another thing to consider is adding the DRO option. I don't have it on my lathe and don't miss it, but I find it VERY useful on the mill. And, by all means, get it with one of the accessory packages. Also consider a rotary table. Very useful for things like steering wheels. Bottom line, if I had it to do over again, I'd go with the Sherline with larger table and column. Hope that helps some - John
  15. You might look at Woodland Scenics. They aren't precisely what you're looking for, but they might work: https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/DT504 Cheers - John

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