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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. You're right - my bad. Try Global - https://www.globalindustrial.com/g/metalworking-tools/metalworking-saw-blades/jewelers-saws/Jewelers-Slotting-Saws-1-1-2-Diameter
  2. Try Malco - https://www.malcosaw.com/ By the way, it's not a good idea to post your email address on the site. You should use PMs if you want a private contact. Cheers - John
  3. If you look at the picture of the X-Y table on the Micromark site, you'll notice two pan-head Philips screws and washers attached to some nuts down in the T-slot. In the vise that Micromark sells (#15118), there are two slots in the base of the vise. Those screws will go down through the vise base (washers under the screw heads) into the T-nuts and allow you to tighten the vise down to the table. Although that vise is somewhat lighter than real machinist vises, I think it's adequate for your use because you're just using a Dremel anyway. You're not going to be doing any heavy-duty
  4. I see that the NRG is offering new 2021 calendars. That's some wild-eyed optimism if I ever saw it!!!
  5. Many years ago, I bought a magnetic gluing jig from Micromark and it has proven to be very useful to me. https://www.micromark.com/Magnetic-Gluing-Jig-10-1-4-Inch-Square
  6. After the Great Toilet Paper Scare of early 2020, I was curious to learn just how long it takes me to go through one single roll with daily use. I now have a definitive answer. Just two days before its 3-month anniversary, my roll of TP finally succumbed to a ripe old age (its, not mine). It was really on a roll right up until the end. In fact, it is often said that all good things must come to an end. This was one good thing that came to my end on a daily basis. It had a soft and gentle nature, performing its doody duty without complaint – never raising a stink about the condition
  7. The comment I'm about to make is not germane to the subject at hand, but the comment above reminded me of an experience I had many years ago when I worked as a clerk in a small, local hardware store. A customer came in looking for some particular item - I don't recall what it was - a package of screws or something small - but we had it in stock. When he saw our price he complained that the big box store had it for about 1/3 less. I asked him why he didn't buy the item there and he replied that it was out of stock. To which I replied, "Oh, when we're out of stock on this item, we sell it for 1/
  8. This image of the main topmast from Ronnberg's Smuggler plans may be of some help: Ronnberg calls the lower line the "main top mast stay" and the upper line he calls the "main topgallant stay." In the notes he says that "At this period, "topgallant stay" was a colloquial term for "topmast spring stay" on fishing schooners." Smuggler dates to 1877. Note that the main top mast stay terminates in an eye that is seated over the shrouds and backstays. The upper line also terminates in an eye that is seated over the topsail halyard band. The forward ends of both those l
  9. Given the fact that different computers reproduce colors that can vary widely, it's impossible to tell from a photo whether or not the color you see on your hull is the same color I see on my laptop screen. So I wouldn't comment on whether or not it's "right" although it looks very orange to me. I have been using a rattle can paint for the bottoms of my Chesapeake Bay workboat model hulls for the past few years. It's Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover "flat red primer" which has a reddish-brown color. It's only about $4 a can at Walmart, so you might give it a try on some scrap. Cheers -
  10. I"m not sure if you are aware, but if you click on any image to open it, you will see some icons at the top of the window. There's one that looks like a circle with an "i" inside it. If you click on that icon, it will bring up comments on the right side of the image where he explains what's going on in each image.
  11. Bob - Thanks for the nice compliments, but if you want to see a truly beautiful model of Smuggler, take a look at the one built by Bob Steinbrunn. Truly amazing! Cheers - John
  12. Little Machine Shop makes a quick-change tool post for the Sherline. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4039&category= I have one very similar to it from a company that has since gone out of business but I have been able to buy additional tool holders from Little Machine Shop. I highly recommend a QCTP. They are expensive but worth every penny to me because I find myself changing tools frequently. I have bought several extra tool holders over the years. I have carbide tools, HSS tools, and even a knurling tool, each in its own holder. One ot
  13. American Beauty makes a tweezer-style hand piece that uses metal electrodes. Very expensive, unfortunately, but they don't break and allow you to get into very tight places. See an example here: https://americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Tweezer-Systems/99/features Cheers - John
  14. I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money. My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joi
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