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About jhearl

  • Birthday 09/26/1949

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  • Location
    Milford, Virginia
  • Interests
    Shipmodeling and photography

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  1. American Beauty makes a tweezer-style hand piece that uses metal electrodes. Very expensive, unfortunately, but they don't break and allow you to get into very tight places. See an example here: https://americanbeautytools.com/Resistance-Tweezer-Systems/99/features Cheers - John
  2. I've owned the resistance soldering unit you pictured for a long time. I don't use it for every soldering task, but for things where joints are very close together, it is an ideal solution. The oyster tongs pictured below are made entirely from brass with every joint soldered. I don't think it would be possible to do this with a standard soldering iron because the rods are so close together. It's a shame they are so very expensive, but I don't regret having spent the money. My normal technique for something like this is to use a soft solder like Tix. I'll apply some flux to the joint, then lay a very small piece of solder in the flux. The flux helps to hold the solder next to the joint. The trickiest part is getting the points of the hand piece on the joint without knocking the solder off. It only takes a second or so for the solder to melt once you press the pedal and it's so quick, the heat is confined to the joint you're working on. Of course, the heavier the material, the longer it takes. The wires on the tongs are .032" so they're quite small. Hope that helps - John
  3. Ab Hoving is a member of the forum, so you might want to send him a PM. https://modelshipworld.com/profile/31631-ab-hoving/ Cheers - John
  4. Thanks for the reply. Pretty much what I figured but just wanted to check since my knowledge of this period is close to zero. Cheers - John
  5. I am currently building a model of a replica of the shallop that John Smith used to explore the Chesapeake Bay in 1607. The boat is 30 feet long. The replica the model is based on has a Danforth anchor in it, but I know that's incorrect. I don't have any knowledge of boats in the 17th century but I'm sure there are members who do. What kind of small anchor would be appropriate for that size boat in that period? Thanks in advance - John
  6. I have to say I love your website! I went through every build with delight! Thanks for sharing your journey and your craft!

    1. jhearl


      Hey Eric -


      Thanks for letting me know. I'm glad you found it enjoyable. I appreciate  your feedback.


      Cheers -


  7. This cutaway model of the stern section of a Chesapeake Bay round-stern workboat is based on plans in Workboats of Smith Island by Paula Johnson. I built a full model of the boat back in 2017 but I always thought it would be interesting to build a cutaway of the stern to show how the boat was constructed. It was a short project - just two weeks - but it was a lot of fun. The scale is 1:16. There are images of the construction process here - http://modelboatyard.com/rscutaway.html
  8. looks like a wonderful tool for slicing off the ends of your fingers! 😰
  9. I own the Sherline mill so I guess I'll weigh in with a few things to consider. Before I do, though, if you don't already own a metal lathe, I'd recommend making that your first purchase over a mill. You will use it FAR more often. That aside, the main thing to consider between the Sherline and a mini-mill is the size. I sometimes find the Sherline to be a bit small for some things I'd like to do. But I simply don't have room in my shop for a larger mill. The mini-mill offers more travel in all three axes than the Sherline and that could occasionally be useful. At the time I bought my mill, Sherline didn't offer larger and taller columns, but they do now, so that would be something to consider. On the other hand, the large mini-mills are MUCH heavier. The one Micromark sells weighs 110 pounds. There's no chance I could get that up on a cabinet by myself or even get it out of the box! As for power, I have not found any limitation with the Sherline. I'm not trying to hog out 1/4" deep cuts in steel with a half-inch cutter, of course. On the other hand, if I needed some deep cut in steel, I could do it with the Sherline - it just might take a little longer. For ship modeling, it's not likely you're going to need a lot of power and you're probably going to be cutting more brass and wood than you are steel. One feature I like on the Sherline that I don't believe is available on the MM mill is the ability to rotate the headstock by 90 degrees. I'm not talking about rotating the column - just the headstock. When I make propellers, I use this feature to cut slots in the hub. There's probably a way to do that without rotating the headstock but it seems to me it would require a more difficult setup. If you decide to go with Sherline, you might want to compare prices at Discount Campus - http://www.discountcampus.com/ I've bought all my Sherline equipment through them because they offer a better price. They are an authorized reseller and, in fact, the equipment winds up getting shipped directly from Sherline in any case. Another thing to consider is adding the DRO option. I don't have it on my lathe and don't miss it, but I find it VERY useful on the mill. And, by all means, get it with one of the accessory packages. Also consider a rotary table. Very useful for things like steering wheels. Bottom line, if I had it to do over again, I'd go with the Sherline with larger table and column. Hope that helps some - John
  10. You might look at Woodland Scenics. They aren't precisely what you're looking for, but they might work: https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/item/DT504 Cheers - John
  11. Since you are so close to the Eastern Shore, you might be interested in attending a one-day model show in Oxford, MD that will be on Saturday, Nov. 9th. https://oxfordcc.org/model-boat-show/ There will be many very competent modelers there and you would probably enjoy talking with them. The show is free too! Cheers - John
  12. I may be wrong (I haven't see the instructions), but I believe the kit is designed so that the hull is built upside down with the the bulkheads glued to the build board. Not sure if you're aware, but Nic built the kit himself starting back in 2016. There are several pics of his build in the newsletters. In this one you can see him working on the hull upside down. http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?m=1105166336677&ca=59b5ef72-1771-4451-8404-b15f53e6d827 Cheers - John
  13. There was an interesting discussion about parrels here: Cheers - John
  14. Couple of things - if you're interested in the history of the shipyard in Bath, Maine that built Notman (Percy and Small), I can highly recommend the book, A Shipyard in Maine by Douglass K. Lee and Ralph Linwood Snow. It's a large book with lots of wonderful, historic photos as well as two plans of Notman. One is a reconstructed deck and profile plan and the other is a reconstructed sail, spar, and outboard profile plan. As I was reading the book for the second time last year, I ran across a sentence I hadn't noticed before: “It [the Alice E. Clark] was to be fitted with wire standing rigging, but unlike the Notman (but like the Blackburn) the rigging was set up with modern rigging-screws (turnbuckles) rather than the traditional deadeyes and lanyards.” That came as a surprise to me since I knew the Bluejacket kit used turnbuckles. I wrote to the Maine Maritime Museum to ask if they could tell me when/if Notman was converted to turnbuckles. Here is their reply: This note is sent on behalf of Kelly Page, registrar for the Maine Maritime Museum. The Notman was built with dead-eyes, and later re-rigged with turnbuckles. Kelly says she doesn’t know specifically what year the vessel was re-rigged, but the Notman was definitely launched with dead-eyes. We hope this is helpful to you, and are grateful to your careful reading of the documents! So you could build your version either way. I know Maine is a long way from Florida, but it you ever get a chance to visit the museum, it is well worth at least a whole day if not two. One of the great ones! Cheers - John
  15. I'll tell you how I go about attaching toe rails. I don't pre-bend them or paint them before installing. I start by placing the toe-rail stock at the stem. (You'll probably need to cut an angle on the stock so it fits properly.) While holding it in place with one hand, I drill hole, about an inch or so back from the stem through the toe rail and down into the deck. Then I insert a piece of stiff brass rod through the hole. Now, I move aft to the point where the toe rail needs to curve and repeat the above process. I continue doing that until I've gotten all the way to the stern. You don't need wire every inch or so - just at the points where the toe rail needs to curve. Here's a picture of this that I did quickly on some scrap (just pretend it's on the edge of a deck): Note that I have NOT used any glue at this point! It's only the wire holding the toe rail in place. Next, you can carefully raise the toe rail up on the wires. This will give you some space to apply small drops of medium CA. Push the toe rail back down on the deck and it will be glued in place. Rather than removing the brass wire, I cut it off as close as I can to the top of the toe rail, then sand it down flush. You can apply a small drop of thin CA right on the brass wire and that will anchor it in place. Once painted, the wire will pretty much be invisible. Hope that helps. John

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