Mayflower by harrypsk - Constructo

[harrypsk]

I will attempt to rebuild my log from the beginning.  The Mayflower by Constructo is my first big wooden kit.  My previous experience is an Atesania Latina Viking. I've built numerous RC trucks/cars, a few wooden airplanes and many plastic models.  This has been my biggest challenge so far in my modeling endeavors.

 

I've struggled quite a bit on the planking of the Mayflower but I'm really enjoying the experience.  So far I've been at work for about 18 months.  This has been an off and on project as I find time.  To make sure I don't neglect the project it stays out on my work table in my home office.  I won't fall prey to "out of sight out of mind."

 

I'm currently in the planking process still.  My technique is getting better as I go, but I'll definitely be taking advantage of the second planking material provided in the kit.

 

Please feel free to offer advice, laugh, or sympathize with my progress.  I look forward to re-engaging everyone on the forum.

Edited May 1, 2013 by harrypsk

[harrypsk]

Here's the initial un-boxing photo:
 

[harrypsk]

Here are a series of pictures documenting some of the early frame construction:

 

 

 

Bow filler....

 

[harrypsk]

Here are some images from early in the planking process.  This is my first big wooden boat.  I learned from other's with experience with the Constructo Mayflower that the bokapi planking included in the kit can be troublesome.  I've created a hybrid method of using a crimping tool and plank bending iron to work on the hull.  I've also been using some extra sheets of walnut I purchased to handle some spiling.

 

 

[harrypsk]

Here are a couple of methods I shared on the board about organization and tapering.

 

In order to help me keep track of wood type and dimension, I grouped all like lumber, put a rubber band around them, and then labeled the end of the bundle with the number from the instructions:

 

 

The next thing I shared was a tip about how I taper planks without a dedicated tool.  Using two identical metal rulers, I clamp the plank between the rulers, metal side in, and cut away.  As long as the clamps are tight enough, this has been a great method for me:

 

[harrypsk]

And finally to update my log to the point where it was pre-catastrophe, I took a break from the frustration of planking and worked on the shore boat and anchors.  Results below:

 

 

[AircraftNutz]

Hi,

I'm really pleased to see your construction log and the pictures really do speak a thousand words. I'm just starting my first build, also a Constructo Mayflower, and I've totally stolen your frame building idea of angle brackets to support and square the frame. Without you I would have ended up with a banana boat - many, many thanks

Edited September 29, 2013 by AircraftNutz

[harrypsk]

Back for the first update in quite some time.  I have the first layer of planking completed.  It looks like it has more bondo than a '60's Chevy, but I have a fairly smooth surface to apply the second layer.

 

I went through lots of trial and error so this has been a great learning experience.  I learned how to spile and numerous techniques for getting good bends.  I hope to apply my lessons learned to layer 2 of planking....

 

[harrypsk]

Hi,

I'm really pleased to see your construction log and the pictures really do speak a thousand words. I'm just starting my first build, also a Constructo Mayflower, and I've totally stolen your frame building idea of angle brackets to support and square the frame. Without you I would have ended up with a banana boat - many, many thanks

I'm not sure where I stole the angle bracket idea myself, glad it might help.

 

You'll find the bokapi planking timber quite frustrating.  I used a combo of soaking for a day then using heat (still cracked) and plank bending pliers.  I found the best plank benders to be the pliers from micro mark: http://www.micromark.com/plank-bending-tool,7055.html . I did not pay $29, got them on sale at some point for $19.  They work much better than the plastic ones.  There may be other places to get similar pliers, but I'm not sure where.

[ZyXuz]

just caught up your build log..

that plank tapering technique is just simple and brilliant! 

Thanks!

[harrypsk]

just caught up your build log..

that plank tapering technique is just simple and brilliant! 

Thanks!

 

That technique worked out well, but I ended up scoring a Mantua plank tapering vice off Ebay for only $20.  I put in a random bid and won it.

[mathewp]

Is this kit single planked? Have fun with it Harry.

Matt

[harrypsk]

Fortunately this kit comes with a pile of thin planks for the 2nd layer.  I'll be taking advantage of it.

[harrypsk]

Some updates on the 2nd layer.  So as many of you know the timber supplied with kits is not wide enough for spiling.  I tried an experiment using the supplied veneer.

 

I use the scotch tape method for capturing and transferring the curvature needed for spiling.

 

 

 

I then glue three veneer pieces onto tape to make a wide plank.

 

 

Then trace the curve and cut away!

 

The result isn't the greatest, as you can see the seams where the pieces come together.  I do have walnut veneer sheet that has a similar color to the bokapi.  I'll likely use it and then use a stain to get the wood to match.

[harrypsk]

You can see some progress on layer 2 on the upper 1/3 of the ship.  I am happy with the outcome so far.  I just wish I would have understood the ramifications of a bluff bow on a first timer!

 

[harrypsk]

Here are some photos of recent 2nd layer work.  I'm using a walnut sheet from HobbyMill for the wider planks on this layer.  They are a little thicker than the 1mm veneer supplied with the kit but I'll be sanding them down even. 

 

 

 

[harrypsk]

I've been experimenting with a filler technique on my 2nd layer planking.  This may have been discussed elsewhere already.  For small gaps or near the end of planks where the veneer has chipped, I'm adding a thin layer of glue, letting it sit a few seconds, and then I sand.  The dust settles into the glue and I get color matched filler.  So far so good.

[rad]

Dear Harrypsk. I just bought Mayflower - Constructo and as complete beginner I had some questions but your photos perfectly answered them. Great job, it is great help for beginners in modeling. I will allow myself to send you an email if question arise. For now, just thanks for your great documenting job. Good luck. Thanks Rad

[rad]

I will attempt to rebuild my log from the beginning.  The Mayflower by Constructo is my first big wooden kit.  My previous experience is an Atesania Latina Viking. I've built numerous RC trucks/cars, a few wooden airplanes and many plastic models.  This has been my biggest challenge so far in my modeling endeavors.

 

I've struggled quite a bit on the planking of the Mayflower but I'm really enjoying the experience.  So far I've been at work for about 18 months.  This has been an off and on project as I find time.  To make sure I don't neglect the project it stays out on my work table in my home office.  I won't fall prey to "out of sight out of mind."

 

I'm currently in the planking process still.  My technique is getting better as I go, but I'll definitely be taking advantage of the second planking material provided in the kit.

 

Please feel free to offer advice, laugh, or sympathize with my progress.  I look forward to re-engaging everyone on the forum.

Dear Harrypsk. I am about to start assembling my first model in my life and it is this Mayflower from Constructo. I was so happy to see your build log. I have immediately a question as the instructions are not very clear to me. I do not understand where they want me to maintain 1 mm. In the grey booklet it is under section:"Shaping on the ribs 1.2" and this 1mm is marked also on top of the diagram on big paper sheet, close to mark N2. If you can explain I will be grateful. Next question. There is evidently missing opening for the part #13, the piece to support the deck. I can see on your pictures that later on you had to make this opening. Is it frequent thing in modeling wooden ships that some openings or other shapes are not done on purpose? Thanks for your great job showing steps how to build Mayflower, I really appreciate, great job. Thanks Rad

[harrypsk]

Dear Harrypsk. I am about to start assembling my first model in my life and it is this Mayflower from Constructo. I was so happy to see your build log. I have immediately a question as the instructions are not very clear to me. I do not understand where they want me to maintain 1 mm. In the grey booklet it is under section:"Shaping on the ribs 1.2" and this 1mm is marked also on top of the diagram on big paper sheet, close to mark N2. If you can explain I will be grateful. Next question. There is evidently missing opening for the part #13, the piece to support the deck. I can see on your pictures that later on you had to make this opening. Is it frequent thing in modeling wooden ships that some openings or other shapes are not done on purpose? Thanks for your great job showing steps how to build Mayflower, I really appreciate, great job. Thanks Rad

 

In order to get the proper flow or shape of the hull, you have to 'fair the hull.'  That is if you just leave the ribs flat, it won't allow the planks to properly flow.  This is best explained and illustrated in Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners, pg. 8.  You can download that from this site at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php .

 

I believe the 13 you're referring to is shown on N.1, big plans.  That's just a crossbar piece that has no opening.  The bulk head it's attached to is part 2, which should be from a laser cut sheet and should have the opening already there.  Later in the plans you then drill the hole at a specific angle further into the supports. 

 

I hope I've answered your questions.  I'm quite the beginner myself so I hope not to lead you astray!

[rad]

In order to get the proper flow or shape of the hull, you have to 'fair the hull.'  That is if you just leave the ribs flat, it won't allow the planks to properly flow.  This is best explained and illustrated in Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners, pg. 8.  You can download that from this site at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php .

 

I believe the 13 you're referring to is shown on N.1, big plans.  That's just a crossbar piece that has no opening.  The bulk head it's attached to is part 2, which should be from a laser cut sheet and should have the opening already there.  Later in the plans you then drill the hole at a specific angle further into the supports. 

 

I hope I've answered your questions.  I'm quite the beginner myself so I hope not to lead you astray!

Thank you very much. Let me get familiar with this technique of shaping the hull. Thanks again

[harrypsk]

Rad, I know you sent this to me as a private message, but I wanted to post it to the build log so everyone can benefit.

 

Hello Harry

Hi, I am slowly following your steps. Harry, I have checked my kit 5 times. I do not have part#57, the stern floor. Please tell me, did you find part#57 in your kit, or I have to cut one plank piece or something different? I am afraid that piece #57 was in a bag and entire bag is missing in my kit. I checked paper instructions in every small bag in the kit and I found out that there is no part#57. Do you remember anything about that piece when you were gluing things together? Next question. What is the best wood to fill the front of the hull? In kit attached instruction booklet, they are showing how planks are nailed to the ribs and front, parts #14. I can figure out from your description that it is really good idea to fill up the space between parts#14 and first rib. I was even thinking about filling up all the spaces between ribs. And the last thing, what it is second plank layer? I do not see anything in the booklet about 2 layers of planks. Please respond if you have a moment. As you can recognize easily from my questions, I am absolute beginner but I do not give up. Thanks and have a wonderful Valentines Day.  Rad 

 

Part 57 is created from a piece of lumber stock.  If you look on the List of Parts, you'll see that 57 is cut from 51.  51 is a bokapi strip that is 2x9x600.  There are many many strips of timber if your kit, I would suggest you identify and label all of them as I showed in an earlier post.  If not you're likely to cut parts from the wrong wood.

 

For the frame fillers I used balsa wood block purchased from a local Michaels.  That stuff is easy to shape.  If you search the forums and tutorials you'll see plenty of references to this practice.

 

The 2nd plank layer is optional and is composed of the paper thin strips.  My kit had a single sheet of paper stating that they were included should you decide to do a second layer.

[rad]

Rad, I know you sent this to me as a private message, but I wanted to post it to the build log so everyone can benefit.

 

Hello Harry

Hi, I am slowly following your steps. Harry, I have checked my kit 5 times. I do not have part#57, the stern floor. Please tell me, did you find part#57 in your kit, or I have to cut one plank piece or something different? I am afraid that piece #57 was in a bag and entire bag is missing in my kit. I checked paper instructions in every small bag in the kit and I found out that there is no part#57. Do you remember anything about that piece when you were gluing things together? Next question. What is the best wood to fill the front of the hull? In kit attached instruction booklet, they are showing how planks are nailed to the ribs and front, parts #14. I can figure out from your description that it is really good idea to fill up the space between parts#14 and first rib. I was even thinking about filling up all the spaces between ribs. And the last thing, what it is second plank layer? I do not see anything in the booklet about 2 layers of planks. Please respond if you have a moment. As you can recognize easily from my questions, I am absolute beginner but I do not give up. Thanks and have a wonderful Valentines Day.  Rad 

 

Part 57 is created from a piece of lumber stock.  If you look on the List of Parts, you'll see that 57 is cut from 51.  51 is a bokapi strip that is 2x9x600.  There are many many strips of timber if your kit, I would suggest you identify and label all of them as I showed in an earlier post.  If not you're likely to cut parts from the wrong wood.

 

For the frame fillers I used balsa wood block purchased from a local Michaels.  That stuff is easy to shape.  If you search the forums and tutorials you'll see plenty of references to this practice.

 

The 2nd plank layer is optional and is composed of the paper thin strips.  My kit had a single sheet of paper stating that they were included should you decide to do a second layer.

Thanks Harry. Thanks for explanation. Yes, I am reading from time to time some tutorials. There is plenty of info in every subject. You are right it is worthy to study. I will try to find all parts and identify them. Thanks again.

[harrypsk]

First update in awhile!  I completed both layers of planking.  It really looked like a beginners hull so I went with a dark stain to complement the "novice plank lines." 

 

Just planked the deck. I didn't go with simulating tree nails, just used a pencil on plank edges to show some "caulking."  I have been using tung oil to seal the deck.  I really like the outcome so far.