-
Posts
24 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by harrypsk
-
First update in awhile! I completed both layers of planking. It really looked like a beginners hull so I went with a dark stain to complement the "novice plank lines." Just planked the deck. I didn't go with simulating tree nails, just used a pencil on plank edges to show some "caulking." I have been using tung oil to seal the deck. I really like the outcome so far.
-
Rad, I know you sent this to me as a private message, but I wanted to post it to the build log so everyone can benefit. Hello Harry Hi, I am slowly following your steps. Harry, I have checked my kit 5 times. I do not have part#57, the stern floor. Please tell me, did you find part#57 in your kit, or I have to cut one plank piece or something different? I am afraid that piece #57 was in a bag and entire bag is missing in my kit. I checked paper instructions in every small bag in the kit and I found out that there is no part#57. Do you remember anything about that piece when you were gluing things together? Next question. What is the best wood to fill the front of the hull? In kit attached instruction booklet, they are showing how planks are nailed to the ribs and front, parts #14. I can figure out from your description that it is really good idea to fill up the space between parts#14 and first rib. I was even thinking about filling up all the spaces between ribs. And the last thing, what it is second plank layer? I do not see anything in the booklet about 2 layers of planks. Please respond if you have a moment. As you can recognize easily from my questions, I am absolute beginner but I do not give up. Thanks and have a wonderful Valentines Day. Rad Part 57 is created from a piece of lumber stock. If you look on the List of Parts, you'll see that 57 is cut from 51. 51 is a bokapi strip that is 2x9x600. There are many many strips of timber if your kit, I would suggest you identify and label all of them as I showed in an earlier post. If not you're likely to cut parts from the wrong wood. For the frame fillers I used balsa wood block purchased from a local Michaels. That stuff is easy to shape. If you search the forums and tutorials you'll see plenty of references to this practice. The 2nd plank layer is optional and is composed of the paper thin strips. My kit had a single sheet of paper stating that they were included should you decide to do a second layer.
-
In order to get the proper flow or shape of the hull, you have to 'fair the hull.' That is if you just leave the ribs flat, it won't allow the planks to properly flow. This is best explained and illustrated in Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners, pg. 8. You can download that from this site at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php . I believe the 13 you're referring to is shown on N.1, big plans. That's just a crossbar piece that has no opening. The bulk head it's attached to is part 2, which should be from a laser cut sheet and should have the opening already there. Later in the plans you then drill the hole at a specific angle further into the supports. I hope I've answered your questions. I'm quite the beginner myself so I hope not to lead you astray!
-
My Process for Planking
harrypsk replied to glbarlow's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Great guide. I'm in the middle of 2nd planking now. This is my first build, so I'm constantly adjusting my technique. Instead of trying to always use full length strips, I'm cutting them to various lengths depending on fit. So I'm spiling, tapering, and cutting. -
I've been experimenting with a filler technique on my 2nd layer planking. This may have been discussed elsewhere already. For small gaps or near the end of planks where the veneer has chipped, I'm adding a thin layer of glue, letting it sit a few seconds, and then I sand. The dust settles into the glue and I get color matched filler. So far so good.
-
Some updates on the 2nd layer. So as many of you know the timber supplied with kits is not wide enough for spiling. I tried an experiment using the supplied veneer. I use the scotch tape method for capturing and transferring the curvature needed for spiling. I then glue three veneer pieces onto tape to make a wide plank. Then trace the curve and cut away! The result isn't the greatest, as you can see the seams where the pieces come together. I do have walnut veneer sheet that has a similar color to the bokapi. I'll likely use it and then use a stain to get the wood to match.
-
I'm not sure where I stole the angle bracket idea myself, glad it might help. You'll find the bokapi planking timber quite frustrating. I used a combo of soaking for a day then using heat (still cracked) and plank bending pliers. I found the best plank benders to be the pliers from micro mark: http://www.micromark.com/plank-bending-tool,7055.html . I did not pay $29, got them on sale at some point for $19. They work much better than the plastic ones. There may be other places to get similar pliers, but I'm not sure where.
-
Back for the first update in quite some time. I have the first layer of planking completed. It looks like it has more bondo than a '60's Chevy, but I have a fairly smooth surface to apply the second layer. I went through lots of trial and error so this has been a great learning experience. I learned how to spile and numerous techniques for getting good bends. I hope to apply my lessons learned to layer 2 of planking....
-
I'm finally about to hit the stage of adding a 2nd layer of veneer planking for my Mayflower hull. My question is around gluing technique. Since the 2nd layer is a thin veneer, is it best to coat the entire underside of the plank with adhesive? I was thinking of slightly thinning the wood glue I've been using to accomplish this. Thoughts, ideas, suggestions? Thanks.
-
Homemade Wood Lathe - a small try by Cristikc
harrypsk replied to cristikc's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Looks successful to me! -
I have this frustration myself. I'm working on the Constructo Mayflower. Since I will double plank it, I am using a wider walnut strip for spiling the first layer. However, this isn't going to work for layer 2 due to color differences. I've searched the web A LOT for bokapi sheets and am coming up dry. This is my first 'big' wooden ship so my first plank layer is an experiment waiting to be covered! But with the supplied veneer I don't have the required dimensions for spiling layer 2. As for the clear tape method, for me it has been the best way to do a decent job of curve transfer for spiling.
-
Here are a couple of methods I shared on the board about organization and tapering. In order to help me keep track of wood type and dimension, I grouped all like lumber, put a rubber band around them, and then labeled the end of the bundle with the number from the instructions: The next thing I shared was a tip about how I taper planks without a dedicated tool. Using two identical metal rulers, I clamp the plank between the rulers, metal side in, and cut away. As long as the clamps are tight enough, this has been a great method for me:
-
Here are some images from early in the planking process. This is my first big wooden boat. I learned from other's with experience with the Constructo Mayflower that the bokapi planking included in the kit can be troublesome. I've created a hybrid method of using a crimping tool and plank bending iron to work on the hull. I've also been using some extra sheets of walnut I purchased to handle some spiling.
-
I will attempt to rebuild my log from the beginning. The Mayflower by Constructo is my first big wooden kit. My previous experience is an Atesania Latina Viking. I've built numerous RC trucks/cars, a few wooden airplanes and many plastic models. This has been my biggest challenge so far in my modeling endeavors. I've struggled quite a bit on the planking of the Mayflower but I'm really enjoying the experience. So far I've been at work for about 18 months. This has been an off and on project as I find time. To make sure I don't neglect the project it stays out on my work table in my home office. I won't fall prey to "out of sight out of mind." I'm currently in the planking process still. My technique is getting better as I go, but I'll definitely be taking advantage of the second planking material provided in the kit. Please feel free to offer advice, laugh, or sympathize with my progress. I look forward to re-engaging everyone on the forum.
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.