Rattlesnake by JSGerson - FINISHED - Mamoli - 1:64 - Using Robert Hunt’s practicum

[Martin W]

It's really coming along.  I had the same problem putting the hances in -- ie, my rails weren't all parallel, so I had to do a lot of sanding.

 

And how did you do the carving -- rotary tool or gouge or xacto?

 

Nice photos from above.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

It was all done with fine needle files (flat and V-shape) and a very fine chisel

[sport29652]

lookin good !

 

Is the gangway abouve omitted in the hann plans ? or is that coming up.I see it on my plans and think about what a bear its going to be

[JSGerson]

From what I understand, the temporary gangplanks were removed while the ship was at sea. The Practicum, based on Hahn's plans, does not address these. Some of the models I have images of show the temporary gangplank and some do not so at this point I have no plans to add them. If I did, I would have to move the ladders. They would also cover up the remaining cannon from view. Also some of the models show netting by the gangplanks. I'm not sure if that is part of the gangplanks or not so I'm not sure yet if I will try to make that.

[Martin W]

I think that netting might be where the rolled up hammocks go.  I too didn't put the temporary gangway in, seeing it also as "bear."  The midship area gets really crowded really fast, with the ship's boat and everything else in there, and the gangways I thought detracted from the handsome lines of the Ratt.  And I think you're also right, JSG, that after taking all that trouble with the gun carriages, why hide them?

 

cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

I'm curious, when the sailors removed the temporary gangplanks, what happened to the supports that held them up? They look like metal right angle brackets mounted directly to the bulwarks. If they are left in place, wouldn't that be some sort of work hazard? I know they didn't have OSHA looking over their shoulders but those shipwrights did know how to build a ship! In other words, should I install the brackets without the gangplanks?

[Martin W]

I'm not sure where you see them.  I can't find them on the Mamoli plans -- Sheet A has supports for a handrail, but that's not what you're describing.  Nor can I see anything like them in Hahn's Photos of his Rattlesnake.

 

Though I think details help to make a build distinctively your own.  If you see something no one else does, put it in.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

If you take a look at the Mamoli plan sheet No. 3, in the center right of the illustrations, it is part No. 107. On the Model Shipways plan (yes I finally received them) identified in the bottom right hand corner as "Plan-on Bulkhead Hull Construction" look at "section C-C" in the center of the drawing. The Hahn's plans don't address them. Somewhere I read that the gang planks were removed while out to sea, but those supports are something I wouldn't want run into during battle or in a storm.

[Martin W]

Right -- on the MS plans those are listed as "iron rail stan" which I take to be stanchions.  They're what I saw on Sheet A of the Mamoli.  Unless you're looking at those 3 knob thingies on the iron knees.  It says "see Campbell Hull Plan," but I don't know what that would be.  I would think, though, that the iron knees would come down when the gang way was pulled down (for battle, as I understand from Chapelle), since, as you say, they'd be nasty things to bump into, and sort of hard to avoid.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

CHAPTER 9 - Final Details

 

The Channels

Basically the decks are complete sans the rigging accoutrements; it’s time to work on the channels. The first thing I noticed was that the Practicum directs the construction of 6 channels per side. Looking at the Hahn’s plans, it shows only 5 (two in the bow and three at the aft end) while the Mamoli plans shows 6 (3 at each end). The channel in contention is the one which starts from the edge of the forecastle. As a two channel breaking over the gun port configuration, the first channel contains one deadeye and the second contains three. As a single channel, it contains all 4 deadeyes and spans over the gun port.

 

To get a consensus of which way I should build them, I went looking at my collection of 44 different Rattlesnake models images (Mamoli, Model Shipway, scratch built and pre-assembled). Only two model-makers built their models with 5 channels (a very fine Hahn’s based POF and a pre-assembled), so it would appear the 6 channel configuration is the model of choice. So be it.

 

Using 1/16” x 3/16” boxwood two pieces each of six lengths were cut per the Practicum. These were then placed on the drawing to determine where the 1/16” notch for the chainplates were located. As shown in the Practicum, I used the Byrnes saw with a .40” thick blade to cut a 1/16” notch. The Practicum called for a .057 thick blade, but I didn't have one. A fine diamond coated needle file will be used to get the extra width.

[JSGerson]

At this point the Practicum gives the builder a choice to either use the kit supplied chainplates or make their own. Based on the experience of Mr. Hunt and the need to solder very fine pieces, I chose to follow his lead and use the kit provided chainplates. They look a bit different from the Hahn’s plans, but it’ll work. Here an image of all the components necessary to create the channels.

 

[JSGerson]

The chainplates are made of Britannia metal which very soft and has the consistency of lead (without the lead). It is very easy to break. So very carefully the large loop of the chainplate was squeezed tight as much as I dared around each deadeye, eight of which were of a smaller diameter. The Practicum discusses how Mr. Hunt modified the kit’s chainplates to shorten them, but I didn't want to risk doing that.

 

The channel moldings were made in the same fashion as my earlier moldings using a razor blade with the molding cross section cut into it. The wood strip was then drawn repeatedly over the cut area until the design was cut into the wood.

Edited August 12, 2013 by JSGerson

[Martin W]

JSG -- It's coming along there.  As for the chainplates of Britannia -- I'm using those for the deadeyes in the tops and found that I could snip the bottoms off easily and without breaking them.  I just used my usual burr cutter, then drilled a new hole.  So if they look too long for your eye, you can always keep that point in mind.

 

cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Not a bad idea. Since I'm still attaching them to the channels and they are not on the model I can still do that. Thanks for the tip.

[JSGerson]

I received a tip from Martin W for a simple way to shorten the chainplates, but in the end I decided it really didn’t make much difference; the amount was so small. If one were follow exactly the Practicum and glue the molding to the channels before slipping the chainplate into the resulting square hole,  you would quickly realize that the chainplate won’t fit. The loop at the bottom where the nail is to go is twice as large as the opening. Of course if I followed Mr. Martin W’s tip of snipping off the loop  and drilling a new hole there would be no problem. So instead I cut the moldings to length and glued them on with the chainplates in place.

[JSGerson]

Now it was just a matter of positioning the channels and chain plates according to Hahn’s plans and gluing and fastening everything down. The results you see below.

[Martin W]

JSG --That was a good strategy, and it seems to have worked.

 

I really like seeing the pictures of your build to date -- I can recognize lots of details (being a follower of the same practicum) and can take note of your superior skill. 

 

Great,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

Flattery will get you everywhere! Careful, I may sound like I know what I am doing but I'm learning on the fly. There are a lot of things I wish I could do over and hopefully better. For example, I'm still not comfortable with planking. Looking at other builds and can see that I have a lot to learn. The part that really scares me are the masts and yards not to mention the rigging. But like they say, take it one step at a time...that and a deep breath!

[Martin W]

Well, one step SLOWLY.  Masts & spars aren't that tricky really.  You can check out Blue Ensign's log on the Pegasus and get some good pointers for cutting down the masts & spars.  I've used that method and the "poor man's lathe" -- ie, setting the dowel in the chuck of an electric drill and tapering it with course sandpaper (wearing gloves).

 

I think I've been working on the rigging since December.  I've been working on the Ratt since January 2008.

 

Like I said, I'm slow.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

There are so many great build logs on MSW it's hard to keep track of them all. Thanks for pointing me to Blue Ensign's blog. It's getting so I haven't had any time to build, I spend so much time reading everybody's else's stuff. I'm about halfway through making the gunport doors and will post them as so as I'm done.

[JSGerson]

The Gunport Lids

Although the Rattlesnake is a 20 gun ship only 10 of the gunports, which are under the Quarter Deck and the Forecastle, have lids. In lieu of using the kit supplied one piece lid these are fabricated from 4 strips of 1/32” x 3/16” boxwood. Two of the strips glued at their edges are perpendicular to the other two strips glued the same way. The one difference is that the inner side of the lid is has a 1/32” lip on the sides and bottom.

[JSGerson]

20 pieces were cut to a length of 3/8” and another 20 were cut 1/32” shorter. Although you can’t tell in the picture above, the inner pile of pieces is the large size.

 

This was a modification of the method described in the Practicum which used 40 pieces cut to the same length but required subsequent hand trimming. I thought my method was simpler and it gave the same final results.

 

Two pieces of the same size were glued along their long edges using a simple jig to ensure everything was square making a component. The larger ones made the outer component and the smaller the inner.

[JSGerson]

To create the actual lid, an outer component and inner component were glued together at right angles to each other with one edge flush with each other in such a way that outer component slats were horizontal.

[JSGerson]

Each door required two brackets. At the top end of the bracket was a pseudo hinge and gluing tongue. The practicum was correct in stating that the kit’s brackets were a bit thick. Rubbing the back of the bracket on a fine sanding block, material was removed leaving a smooth shiny surface from what was a slightly rough and concave finish. Additionally excess metal was also trimmed away.

[JSGerson]

The brackets were then glued to the lids with the pseudo hinge off the lid otherwise the lid would not be able to swing if the hinge were actually real.

[Martin W]

Hey, I like your jig -- it's simple and effective.

 

And I agree about those hinges.  I used them and wish I hadn't.  On the model itself they strike me as being much, much too big. But they do have the big advantage of giving you a surface to attach to the frame of the port.  Still, I've knocked off 2 or 3 already as I've been moving around the ship to do the rigging.

 

Glad to see you're making progress --

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

The practicum only stated that the lids were attached in an open position with no detail. It appears from the pictures provided that Mr. Hunt simply cut off the tongue from the bracket and just glued the lid edge directly to the hull. If one wants the look of hinges, then the use of the tongues is a must. The tongues on the brackets are rectangular in shape and cross section. Because the pseudo hinge had to appear at the gun port opening edge, a simple drilled hole would not work. The drill would not stay in place; grooves would have to be formed for the bracket tongues. I used a variable speed cordless rotary tool with a cone cutting bit. The picture below shows the three stage: Before, drilled holes, completed installation. The center gunport shows the grooves in the top of opening that is for the bracket tongues.

[JSGerson]

Then there is the matter of gun port lid tackle used to open and close the lid.

 

• The Practicum and Hahn’s drawings are silent in this regard.
• The Mamoli plan’s show a continuous rope from the inner hull through a hole just above the gunport and below the channels through a hole low in the lid which then hangs down inside the hull. I must assume there were knots or some other method by which the rope was secured to the lid on the actual ship. These would be too small to see at this scale.
• The Model Shipway plans (which I just got my hands on) show a ring on the outside of the gunport lid from which the rope is attached and then goes over the channels into the hull. Going over the channel doesn’t make sense as the rope would then be passing through the hull and appearing on the deck above. Nothing is shown as to how the lid was closed. Any ring that I could buy or fabricate would appear to my eyes too large for the scale of the model.

 

Based on the above, I have elected to follow the Mamoli plans. The method of securing the rope to the lid is moot as far as I am concerned due to the scale. In actuality, beige thread was glued to a hole on the outside hull above the gunport and below the channel, passed through a hole in the lid at the lower end and glued to the inside hull as if it were secured by a cleat which the observer can’t see. To accomplish this, the thread was first glued to the outside hull above the gunport. Once set, it was threaded through the hole in the lid. The model was laid on its side and the lid was CA glued in place so it stood vertical. It was almost like balancing a pencil on its end. It was left this way for at least 30 minutes. I was taking no chances. This was done nine more times. This took a lot longer than I had expected. The result is shown below.

[Martin W]

That's a neat solution to the problem of those hinges.  I wish I'd seen what you've done a lot earlier.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[JSGerson]

How "neat a solution" it was will depend how long those lids will remain attached before I, like you, knock them off. They were a minor pain to attach. I am starting the head boards and that will require a lot of manipulation of the model as I manufacture, fit and install all of those little parts. Wish me luck!