DrDeathproof Posted August 2, 2020 Share #1 Posted August 2, 2020 Although I had started a couple of other kits, they had to put aside because reasons. So I'm concentrating on this kit and I'm going to try to see it through to the end. I like Occre products a lot. The full color photos and quality of parts is excellent. I could probably go a little further with this tonight but I'm hoping to get some feedback on my progress so far, in case anything needs to be fixed/adjusted before I do anything else. Instructions can be viewed here: Palamos instructions Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. This was a point where I wasn't sure how to proceed. According to the instructions: 11. The false keel in the bow area will have to be reduced until it is approximately 2 mm wide. 12. You must also obtain a width of 2 mm in the stern area of the false keel. Did I succeed? Do I need to sand this down more? I have no idea. Stumbling block #2 13. Line one side of each of the bulwarks (no. 18) using the lining (no. 19). For this operation use contact adhesive. I have no idea how to identify how to identify the lining for the bulwarks. The size of the wood strips for the bulwarks is the same as the the boards used for the deck. The deck boards are "sapelli" color, which is the darker, so I'm guessing the "sycamore" colored strips are the ones I needed to use. Missing a small chip there. I can probably trim a piece down that will fit. A little frustrating but I'm doing my best to work through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvana Posted August 2, 2020 Share #2 Posted August 2, 2020 You are off! Nice start. Question: When you glued the bulkheads in place did you use a square, in order to them all angled correctly? It will help in the long run. Now the planking you are about to do, make sure to soak them. They look fragile and it won't take much to break them. Soak them put in place but don't glue, they will take shape and will spring back a little once dried. Make sure they are completely dried before removing them from the hull-skeleton. Before any planking. Put a plank over three - four bulkheads don't bend to much. Take a look how they are touching the bulkheads. The planks need to have as good as 100% contact surface. Fairing the bulkheads are essential. Looking forward to your next step. Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrDeathproof Posted August 2, 2020 Author Share #3 Posted August 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, Nirvana said: You are off! Nice start. Question: When you glued the bulkheads in place did you use a square, in order to them all angled correctly? It will help in the long run. Now the planking you are about to do, make sure to soak them. They look fragile and it won't take much to break them. Soak them put in place but don't glue, they will take shape and will spring back a little once dried. Make sure they are completely dried before removing them from the hull-skeleton. Before any planking. Put a plank over three - four bulkheads don't bend to much. Take a look how they are touching the bulkheads. The planks need to have as good as 100% contact surface. Fairing the bulkheads are essential. Looking forward to your next step. Unfortunately, no - all I have is a ruler. Thanks for the advice - I'll give it a shot. After my experience trying to do the Carmen II I am NOT looking forwarding to the side planks. But if I can get them looking decent, once I'm past that part I think the rest should be relatively easy. I'll report back probably tomorrow with regard to the bulwarks and maybe try to get some of the planking in place. One question: how long do you soak the wood for? I've seen people suggest anywhere from 10 - 20 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nirvana Posted August 2, 2020 Share #4 Posted August 2, 2020 Lego bricks are also very useful to get squared and plumbed bulkhead towards the false keel, or use balsablock inserted which will help as well. Look into my start of Syren. Minimum of 10 to 20 minutes for soaking, use as warm water as possible that your fingers/hand can handle. Quote Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havelock Posted August 8, 2020 Share #5 Posted August 8, 2020 Looking good! I like the kit. Definitely fair the ribs well. In my first build I didn’t pay enough attention to the fairing and it made planking harder. For my Polaris build I did and planking was much smoother. I would lay one of the thin strips across the ribs to ensure they conform fully. Quote User: Havelock Build Logs -> Current: Taurus-MS-1:64 -> Completed: Polaris-OcCre-1:50 Stash: 18th Century Longboat-MS-1:48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMT Posted January 22, 2023 Share #6 Posted January 22, 2023 Dr. I know this build is a couple of years old your build. I just got the kit for the holidays. Just finished fairing bulkheads. Any information or pictures to share will be helpful. Thanks, BMT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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