rudybob Posted March 10, 2022 Share #1 Posted March 10, 2022 (edited) I think the sheer strake should fit flush with the top of each bulkhead. Looking at the picture in the instruction manual that is what I think I see. As I dry fit the sheer strake it is not flush on each bulkhead. While looking at build log photos I see where some bulkheads are above the sheer strake esp at the bow. Which is how my build is progressing. I am not saying wrong or right...I certainly don't know. My question is: Am I right, should the sheer strake be flush with each bulkhead and if it isn't is there any reason I can't sand it flush later ? Here is the picture. NOT MY BUILD It could be wood temporarily added or maybe just the angle Edited March 10, 2022 by rudybob edit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaager Posted March 10, 2022 Share #2 Posted March 10, 2022 lets see if we can get this going. I am writing in theory here - so perhaps someone who actually knows will help. If you did not loft the molds yourself, it may be that you are placing too much trust in their being accurate. Is not the sheer strake the plank that is just under and up against a rail? The rail location is the more important component. If you can fix the hull to a base - and have it midline (stem and sternpost) vertical - jigs can be made that measure the height of the rail at every mold. The molds can be trimmed or shimmed as required. The sheer strake can be spilled to fit the space. It will be up to you whether to do the rail first or place the rail on top of the sheer. If the space is not a perfect fit - many ships had a small decorative under the rail strip. It was not as far out as the rail. It would sit on the sheer strake. These are NMM multi decker plans and they appear as though the rails were super thick. I think a more reasonable construction would be two parts. The under piece would be like crown molding. There is no reason that a boat could not have this. mtaylor 1 Quote NRG member 45 years Current: HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing HMS Beagle 1831 refiit 10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842 Flying Fish 1838 pilot schooner - framed - ready for stern timbers Porpose II 1836 brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Vincennes 1825 Sloop-of-War - timbers assembled, need shaping Peacock 1828 Sloop-of -War - timbers ready for assembly Sea Gull 1838 pilot schooner - timbers ready for assembly Relief 1835 ship - timbers ready for assembly Other Portsmouth 1843 Sloop-of-War - timbers ready for assembly Le Commerce de Marseilles 1788 118 cannons - framed La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starlight Posted March 10, 2022 Share #3 Posted March 10, 2022 Hello rudybob, (Disclaimer: I have not built this model before) I don't see why the sheer strake would not follow the bulkheads. That is after all what they are there for. A quick search for "English Pinnace" on MSW turned up a number of useful build logs showing how this plank should lie: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22234-18th-century-pinnace-by-delf-finished-model-shipways-124-scale-small/?do=findComment&comment=678179 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/27044-english-pinnace-by-ericwilliammarshall-finished-model-shipways-scale-124/?do=findComment&comment=783869 In any case, if you can't get it perfect I wouldn't stress about it since it will be covered up by the decoration as @Jaager mentioned. Lastly, it would really help if you mention what model you are building when posting questions like these. Cheers, starlight mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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