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Jaager

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About Jaager

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    Journeyman
  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Male
  • Location
    Norfolk VA
  • Interests
    wooden sail pre-1860

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  1. Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol. The solvent for PVA is isopropyl alcohol, but the properties of short chain alcohols are very similar. So it could be PVA. Hide glue is denatured by ethyl alcohol - especially if it is hot, so it could be a hide glue.
  2. Post #30 - the top graphic - Body plan - aft - the new green station shape. You should maybe recheck the location of the sheer point. I see it as being too close to the preceding station. There will be a bulge. If you do use that shape, you may wish to leave the inside a lot fatter. Otherwise the inside will have to have a scab layer to make it thick enough when you rasp the outer surface to get a smooth run.
  3. The harpoons needed tending to. Not needing the level and type of work usually done by a blacksmith a smaller anvil would do. The coopering needed to assemble the barrels to hold the oil was also a function.
  4. I build POF and am a bit biased on terminology. As a side note, what you ( and most everybody) call bulkheads are actually molds. Subs have bulkheads, some steel ships have bulkheads, Chinese wooden ships have bulkheads. Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. They certainly are not frames. What you (and everyone else) call the keel is actually a central support spine. I have never built POB, so this is theory. How I would try to rectify this: 1. This curve is the natural shape that your piece of plywood seeks. Anything that you do only to it (bend it back with steam or heat) is likely to be a temporary fix. It will still "want" to bend. You can clamp it to a baseboard and use the planking applied while clamped to hold the shape. But when removed an twist force will be on the glue joints of the molds and inside planking - forever. It may or may not hold. 2. If the molds have not been glued, there is a stronger fix. Scab a long streamer on each side of the central spine. Remove the black area on each mold. Get a couple of long sticks of straight hardwood ( 1/4" x 1/4" or 1/4" x 1/2" or substantial size ). Drill holes thru the sticks and central spine all along the length. Use threaded bolts, washers and nuts to fix the sticks and central spine together. Make sure this assembly is dead straight. Remove the assembly. Glue the molds to the central spine. Slide the sticks thru the holes along the length and glue the sticks to the spine. Check to make sure it is still dead straight. The bolts can be removed and bamboo skewers glued thru the holes. You just need a drill bit that is the diameter of the skewers. 3. The holes in the molds remove some of the bonding surface between them and the spine. Short pieces of SQUARE wood can be used to reinforce the bond. Eight pieces per molds. Just do not block the path of the straightener sticks. 4. Rather than Balsa, consider using Pine to fill the outer planking edge between the molds. Assuming that you do not have power tools, a hand fret saw. planes, knives and sanding block will do. Select Pine in 1" thickness is easily found. There may also be thinner stock of solid Pine. Cut out the shapes, glue up the layers to fit between the molds, and do as much shaping as you can before fixing them between the molds. You are unlikely to be lucky enough that a sum one 1" layers will be a tight fit between the molds. The outer surface does not need to be continuous. Cardboard or what ever is to hand can be fitted between a layer to make up the difference. It does not need to reach the outer shaped surface. You just want the unit to be a push fit between the molds.
  5. A stain product is actually a semi transparent paint. Cherry stain would be used on something like Yellow Poplar, Using a dye on Cherry is gilding a Lilly. Using a stain is turning a star into something mundane. If you want a finish with a reverse gear, consider shellac. Orange shellac will darken it now without obscuring it. But, as Marks writes, Black Cherry darkens over time and in few years may be darker than you intended. Super blonde will not darken it much. There is a clearer version that is about twice as expensive. The more layers, the more depth. If it is too shiny a light buffing with very very fine steel wool with make it satin. Just do not get it wet. I am of a mind to use a final layer of Renaissance Wax Polish- but that is just a theory now.
  6. I checked my library - Sephton and Busmann. I think it was Busmann had a photo of a model in the Culver collection where it was embedded fore. The service life of a wooden sailing warship was 20 years at best - with exceptions of course. Then it was into a shipyard and the result was mostly a major transformation - often a totally new ship - if the ship in question had a political importance. SOS sort of sits at the top of the list where the fiction of the same ship remaining in its fleet "forever" is a symbolic priority. SOS underwent several transformations. There may be supposed contemporary graphics from the 17C. reporters who were clueless about which iteration of SOS they were drawing and thought each one was still the original 1637 vessel. That said, it is crystal clear to me that for any modeler who has even a sliver of obsessive - compulsive tendency about historical accuracy, having anything to do with SOS is a straight shot it absolute frustration and total madness
  7. Being unforgivably pedantic, if that model was a kit, there is slight probability that it was POF. Plank On Frame is a specific style of construction that attempts to mimic the way an actual hull was constructed. It varies from stylized to being as exact as possible, depending on who the builder is. This method is pretty much limited to scratch building. It was more likely POB - Plank On Bulkhead. There are some unscrupulous kit makers, who advertise POB as being POF. If they cheat on this, it is likely that anything they offer would be suspect. Doing POF correctly is both labor intensive and uses a lot of wood. I suspect that an actual POF kit would be sorta expensive, even for a brig. My understanding is that the first POB kits were from Italy and the component that they termed "bulkhead" is actually a mold and not a part of an actual western built wooden vessel hull. It has continued on as the description used to define the method. Actual bulkheads were a feature of Chinese built wooden hulls, and not western. In Chinese ships, real bulkheads would not have been close enough together to adequately determine the shape of a hull without some additions between them. As it is, most POB molds are not spaced at close enough intervals to support a satisfactory shape for a hull. The common fix is a double layer of planking. Now, about your Katy build, congratulations on an excellent choice for a first build - both as an attractive subject - and as something not likely to overwhelm Shellac is an excellent choice as a primer for most finish material. Diluted 1:1 (50%) for the first coat. 100% for the second. Before you do that, there are a couple of riffs you might consider. After you add the keel, stem and sternpost, you could plank the hull with thin veneer. You do not list your geographical location, but for the US the effective choices would be Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Birch, Beech. (Straight grain, not figured, tight, closed grain, no evident pores) A thin veneer requires no special tools other than a steel straight edge and a sharp #11 knife blade. Disposable blades work, but if you continue with this, violin makers knives and a strop kit Bay pilot schooners did not have much of a bulwark - the Pine/Basswood of the hull above the waterway could be shaved off and a 1/8" piece of hardwood (or glued up layers of the hull planking veneer, used to add an actual scale bulwark. You removed wood that substitutes for the deck beams, so you will need a clamp strake and actual deck beams. (Doing the camber and placement of beams for hatches and masts gets you well into the sort of work that scratch building involves - just FYI) Even if you had not hollowed the hull - Rather than using a sheet of scored decking (Basswood) that I am guessing comes with the kit, an actual deck can be laid. The same veneer as above (except Black Cherry) will make for an attractive deck. I suspect that the actual decking was hard Pine it is not near white, so Maple, Birch is close in color. Rather than bopping a viewer between the eyes with stark contrast wide black caulking seams, mixing a dose of walnut dye to the Titebond that is between the deck planks would be closer to scale.
  8. You are definitely in the right place. The interests here are diversified. Small craft are a part of it. The Bay craft have their following. I have tried to collect those books and plans of Bay craft that have become available over the years, even though my subjects are larger. Check out the NRJ back volume CD, SIS CD, Model Ship Builder CD at the store.
  9. If this is a double planked hull, how ever you do the runs of planking for the under layer can be messy and no harm is done. As a representation of how an actual garboard is placed, SpyGlass was pointing the way. I foresee a lot of frustration in the future with the way you have begun this. A proposition: The keel is part of a vertical system/structure, The bottom planking is part of a different semi-horizontal system. The join of these two systems is subject conflicting stress and potential movement. This is the rabbet. If a garboard was bent thru its width axis - against its natural tendency - to fit, an unnecessary additional force would be added that would reduce the effectiveness and tightness of the caulking at the rabbet. The solution: lay the rectangular garboard plank on the frames and push it against the keel. Where the rabbet is a horizontal line, no spilling is necessary. Aft, this usually goes all the way to the rabbet in the sternpost. At the fore end, the rabbet starts to curve up. To fit the garboard, wood is removed at the edge hitting the rabbet. he outer edge stays straight all the way. This is the defining limit for the rest of the planking at the bottom. The wale is the other defining limit. The whole wale is placed when the garboard is fitted. It is the space between the garboard and the wale where the planking is subject to spilling. For vessels larger than a boat, it is probably best if this space is divided into zones of 8 or so runs of planking. a narrow batten can be used to adjust at the stem and stern to get an attractive and natural run at the border of each zone. This reduces the effect of error creep compounding too much. I may have misremembered that the outer edge being straight being so in carvel as well as clinker planking, or maybe this as well as every clinker plank being done this way. The actual stress and movement at the rabbet is about a floating vessel. The effect of humidity changes and variation in ambient temp on a model is probably a couple of magnitudes less.
  10. I was thinking about what John wrote about the hording buying and how the replacement volume will exceed the usual quantities. Then I flashed on how everything is bar code scanned. The want list is done automatically. So this will be down to warehouse stock (and truck capacity)- are they also just in time? For TP, it gets down to Koch Bros and other paper companies - are they just in time? It would be foolish for them to do more than run at max. Gearing up for higher demand as a new continuing level would be a mistake. It is not like this virus causes the runs for the rest of your life. It is not like TP has a real expiration date, but maybe some things that do expire have been horded. Fresher stock on the shelves, when they take up the slack.
  11. That's funny! I wonder if MAE was planning a series on the history of sailing cutters in the NRJ or in a book. It is too bad that it did not happen. I have no experience with the waters around the British Isles or the English channel, but over here the wind tends go from over the land and out to sea and the bottom is mostly sand. The mountains get closer to the sea up around Canada, but it is a long way to big rocks down south. Maybe the weather dictated the rig, since the guys who used these vessels could not afford to be sentimental about tradition.
  12. I pulled my copy and I don't see what lead me to place the Speedy in the clinker category. There is not much more than what you quoted. There is not much about outside planking at all, but the one cross section that has any planking looks like clinker to me. I had thought that the demo model was clinker, but maybe I just saw what I was expecting to see. I saved 5 JPEGs of plans and a painting for Vigilant from the NMM web site, so it seems well documented. The Smithsonian has several English cutter plans done by Merritt Edson. It looks like he was planning a publication about cutters that ran aground for some reason. It appears that cutters were not much favored in North America. I am guessing that schooners filled their role.
  13. Bill Shoulder's plans for Speedy have it as clinker planked. Did that apply to the whole class?
  14. Moxis, From what you write, the goal for aeroplane is in the flying aspect. The building aspect being a necessary evil. I cannot speak for steel or kit ship modelers, but for scratch wood/sail and probably wood/steam I think it is the building of it that is the challenge. Accumulation of a finished fleet is a side effect rather than an object for many - at least that is my sense of it. I am singularly uninterested is any sort of contest, but I use the standards of the now ancient (Mytic?) contest rules as my personal limits. Indeed, the only synthetic components that I will use is PVA. At its core, this is about personal goals and challenges. We should probably be open to all of this being here. What each of us admires and emulates is entirely a personal thing.

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