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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. Jim, My evaluation of Yellow Poplar -Liriodendron tulipifera - a tree that grows fairly rapidly. very straight, large diameter trunk. tight grain, closed pore, at the soft end as far as density, easy on tools, holds a sharp edge. The color - yellow to grey to green tends to make it a problem in a visible clear finish situation, Interior and painted - excellent for most any part. I prefer harder species, but that is a personal bias. Planking - excellent - need to pick the pieces carefully if color is a factor. Black poplar - Lombardy poplar - Populus nigra - a whole nuther thing. The free grows straight, fast, dies young and a bad winter can be a disaster. The wood is very soft, fibers tend to roll, can be fuzzy, weak. More suited for making pallets. Can be used if the tools are very sharp and there is no stress. It will not be a joy to work. Planking - probably will dent easily, getting sharp edges = difficult, splitting will lead to a lot of waste.
  2. Fixing a dowel or wood balk in lathe jaws and being able to turn a even - constant tapper - a nice dream. Reality and practicality drown that dream in mot instances. The spars are often too long for lathe models in our price range. In scales where they are short enough, their diameter = difficult to resist the lateral force of a cutting tool without breaking. Clamp an electric drill to turn the spar and use sandpaper to shape it. Amazon (and probably others) sell low cost ball bearings with a range of OD and ID sizes. A jig to hold the bearing is easy to make and wooden or cardboard wedges can support the outboard end of the spar with no friction heating up the spar piece as it turns.
  3. Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive. Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up. Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help. By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder. A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber. Full size cutting and milling (resawing). Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools. Scratch POB can get by with less. Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al, two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill. You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF. You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - Chapman and the Danish museum.
  4. Access your available woodworkers suppliers. My go-to is WoodCraft - it is a close drive, and has an active Web sales site. The product that you want is hardwood veneer. A species of wood with tight grain and closed pore. In the US - the lower cost species = Black Cherry - Hard Maple. Take care in the choice. Most veneer is for the very characteristics that we need to avoid = high contrast and interesting grain. Many of the species are also open pore. When reduced by a factor or 50-100, the pores would be soup bowl size or shallow ditches. Factors that are desirable - natural, quarter sawn or plane sawn, no pre-glue backing, as thin as can be had. You will be adding a fixed additional thickness to the hull, so all planking- including the wale needs the treatment. If the veneer is too thick, the rail will not appear to extend out enough. If you fatten it, it will be too wide. If you copper the bottom - the thickness of the copper chosen may match the veneer and no planking needed under it. If it is not too late, consider not having the swimming body look like a smallpox survivor and use a smooth copper product - in place of an out of scale - too few anyway - embossed product. The veneer will require a heavy precise straight edge and a sharp knife - most of us seem to prefer a #11 style edge. Using a luthier's knife and a leather strop with gold or green compd - used frequently - will aid in developing better working habits.
  5. Why not spill and build up from pieces? Bending thru the thick dimension is fighting against the nature of the wood. Dziadeczek, I am betting that the wood in question is kit supplied. African Walnut is probably relatively low cost and can be advertised a something special by kit mfg. Black Walnut ( Juglans nigra ) is in a class by itself. I would guess that although a reasonable cost and available here, it is probably neither in OZ. Queensland Walnut is native to OZ and may be superior to the African species - if Mark can mill it. All Walnuts share a problem for our purposes - open pore and some have grain that scales poorly.
  6. It depends on the tools available to you. If you can mill, a visit to your local HomeDepot or hardware store can supply you with a best quality framing 2 x 4. They will crosscut - 2 ft for me. One should cover more than one POB. Some times Fir or Pine - just choose clear, and low sap. Easy on a saw blade or cutting edges but holds an edge.
  7. If turning spars is your goal, a generic corded electric drill and a speed control - not sure a dimmer switch will work, but low cost if it does. If you can set a remote ON a maintain the internal speed control setting, no additional switch is needed. Even 1/2 inch drills are significantly less expensive. For this, a lathe is a sledge to kill a fly.
  8. The phrase was probably "hang him from the yardarm" and the enthusiastic ignorant got it in their head that it referred to and was the name of the whole spar. The arm end of the main yard, when square to the mast, would extend beyond the side of the ship and be over water. During a hanging, having the subject of the execution in a location over water would save having the clean the deck of **** and poo.
  9. It helps to fall in love with your subject. It is easy to get distracted. You offer no personal information, so no suggestions relative to your geographic location. Scratch, with no prior kit experience - an additional challenge. Something small in a large scale would provide a higher probability of successful completion.. For someone in the US, who wants a cold start - using just traditional lines plans: Mediator - a single mast sloop HIC Katy or Lafayette or Swift- pilot schooners HIC HMS Fly or HMS Alert - RN cutters MAE Jr. Smithsonian plans The hulls are not complex. Small - attractive -
  10. To essay as to why this search may be a dry hole The two "POF" schooner kits - Are not what an actual POF hull would be. They appear to be at best 1/3 room and 2/3 space. Almost a cartoon, if the frames are left unplanked. The Hahn method - a modeler's convention - not a reproduction of actual hull framing is 1/2 room and 1/2 space. The actual framing - from the early 18th century until 1860 was individual to the ship and country of origin. An average - would be closer to 2/3 room and 1/3 space. The other extreme - with some Continental frigates - all room except for all but invisible air circulation gaps. Framing these as built and showing the frames - it would be essentially a solid vertical wall - not visually interesting at all. Leaving out every other bend - a more interesting hull. Since this is Hahn's period of interest, perhaps this is a source for his style. It is my experience that a true POF hull - either done using a modeler's convention style e.g. Hahn/ Navy Board or actually mimicking the the actual vessel would be difficult to mass produce. It is labor intensive, No two parts are identical. Current methods - especially Hahn or Navy Board - have a high waste factor in timber wood stock - almost profligate. And the wood species needed for the timbers can be expensive. In actual practice, a first rate almost required a forest to frame. In England, the first real one was so expensive, the tax revolt was a tipping point for a major change in governance. The requirements for timber stock for a model in the larger scale range almost feels as significant. With the methods in current use, about the only short cut is to start with a set of plans or monograph with the individual frames already lofted.
  11. Lacquer has its own thinner. The irritant factor of the traditional version is fierce - you will want to be breathing a different air supply. The more recent "green" version is not an improvement in that regard. Lacquer can be wiped on, but it is high gloss and builds thick layers. Poly - polyurethane - is a plastic. Works great to finish and protect a wooden floor. Both tend to produce a thick, high gloss finish. Great for a toy-like finish - if that is what you want. I think a convenient factor with wipe-on poly - water is the solvent. Shellac is a wipe on finish. The depth and gloss can be controlled. Shellac tinned 1:1 is an excellent primer coat. About anything else can be used over it. Shellac uses alcohol - methanol or isopropanol 100% - or ethanol that has no water- Shellac likes water - it likes it so much, that it turns white to show its joy. Shellac and boiled linseed oil is traditional vanish. A shellac pad with a bit of linseed oil is French polish. Pure Tung oil can be wiped on, thinned, 1:1 it is a primer coat, or done over Shellac, as many layer as you care to apply, but can take time to dry/polymerize. Tung oil uses mineral spirits as a solvent. Sutherland Wells sells a "cooked" Tung oil is several grades - pre polymerized - fewer layers - faster drying - gloss level a choice. Renaissance Wax can be used over Shellac or Tung oil.
  12. Since you have floated this out there, I suggest an alternative: Pear is as good as it gets - but it is a bit dark for a deck. Framing and hull planking, great. Deck - Oak is open pore - it scales poorly. Maple, Beech, Birch, Linden are closed pore, and have shades that more closely match the Oak, Pine that decks often were. High gloss finishes on a scale model often give them a toy-like nature. A matte might yield a more sophisticated look.
  13. Quarter sawn Maple veneer - A good steel ruler with a tapered edge and a sharp luthiers knife - with practice = scale planking. WoodCraft if you have no alternate vendors. As Dziadeczek says get the finish off and down to raw wood. Go easy on the calking seam simulation and consider a Walnut shade rather than black. Subtle, rather than smacking a viewer between the eyes might be worth considering. A glossy finish on the deck of a working schooner would be death to work on - often wet and almost always moving. Shellac is an alternate finish - 1/2 strength for first coat. If it is too shiny, 0000 steel wool can knock that down. Shellac also meets Oddball's Credo.
  14. It is likely that it is heat and not water that allows lignin bonds to reset. Water plus heat produce steam, which is more efficient in heat transfer than dry heat - seasoned wood has air spaces - insulation like.
  15. Bruce, It looks like you have beautiful, clear stock. It does not get much better than Holly. Fortune turned her smile onto you there. I don't know what your building material is over there, but here, the most common construction lumber is 2"x4" x 8' Pine or Fir. It is not expensive as far as wood goes. If you can mill it, it works well as fill stock between the moulds. Do an inside curve, rather than solid to the "keel centerline piece" to save wood and weight. It can be a several lamination. If an additional throw away layer that is the thickness of the plywood moulds is added, two adjacent mould patterns layered in a drawing program with locator guides added - bamboo skewers - straight from the package make good dowels - if you have a drill bit that diameter and a drill press to make sure the holes are perpendicular. Only need to manipulate the pattern for one side - flip horizontal is a big time saver and assures lateral symmetry. Most of the scroll cutting,, layer assembly, shaping to near final curves - done off the hull. - paper or cardboard shims if there is play between the moulds. Do this all the way and it is like having a solid hull. One layer of planking is enough. The planks have about as good a glue support as possible.

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