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Jaager

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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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  1. To present the map - you choose your own route: PVA bonds thru a polymerization reaction. The chains have to penetrate the substance of the wood to produce a strong bond. The closer the two wood surfaces - the stronger the bond. A force that crushes the wood fibers is something to avoid, but below that force, the stronger the clamping pressure the stronger the bond. Total coverage of both meeting surfaces is a good goal. Preparation of the meeting surfaces is a detail to consider. Sanding the surface with a grit finer than 220 runs the danger of leaving the surface with no substance for the polymer chains to penetrate. Sandpaper can leave the pores filled with wood flour if too fine a grit is used. Scraping leaves clean and open pores.
  2. Ron, Before you lay out effort on it would be worth your while to investigate an LED alternative = they are much brighter, weigh almost nothing, use less wattage, much cooler, do not hum. I would double the shelf width, and think about a raised lip.
  3. POB? initial layer of planking? Small dents = PVA mixed with wood flour. serious hollows = scab a piece of thin veneer of Softwood or Basswood or Yellow Poplar with PVA and sand/ scrape to conformation.
  4. The gunports are very close to the deck. Looks like small caliber guns on skids. Iron hammock braces on top of the rail and drawn skewed to show their construction. The curved piece looks like the end moulding of a bulwark, but nothing ekse supports that. The number of lines at the rail and the hanging knees below, could be a partial spar deck over the gunports. I would guess 1835 +/- 15 years.
  5. If you can mill it to the needed dimensions, an inexpensive source of filling material: in the US, dwellings are framed using 2x4 by 8' Fir or Pine lumber. A mega store building supply chain sells it for< $4 each It is a softwood - evergreen - not difficult on cutting edges. Pick clear straight stock. As long as it is not sappy Pine, it glues well. If you have access, a free supply might be had from a building site from the end cuttings and scrap, if you ask.
  6. Since, no one seems to want to touch this; It is not a contest or a race. These is no "best". I prefer hard, closed pore, tight grain, low contrast. If I have looked up the correct species in the data base, what you were provided in the kit would be high on my reject list. The exact species depends- what color?, what scale?, bare wood or painted? can you mill your own wood? You do not list your location. I think a locally available species is more cost effective. This is especially true for framing stock. A full size 1st rate took a forest to build it. A model of one can require a lot of wood - especially 1:72 or larger.
  7. I am not going to look it up, but I remember it as the blade ideally having 3 teeth in contract with the wood and the crown of the blade being a minimal distance above the stock. That means the blade hits the stock at about a 30 degree angle from the horizontal. Too many fine teeth and the gullet fills with cuttings and can no longer cut. Too few teeth and it is like cutting with a chisel driven by a hammer - intermittently. To get your 1/8" stock from a 1" or 2" thick billet - a different and larger tool. The efficient choice is a band saw - and not a bench top model - and a thickness sander - a hollow ground blade on a 10" table saw works, but has more waste and wants to eat your fingers.
  8. JD, If you pursue this method, you may find that a frame press a useful tool. I made one from a HF bench top pipe vise - sold by them long ago - and 3/4" plywood 12" x 12". This one is from Amazon and is smaller than the HF model. I have large dowels at all 4 corners in an attempt to keep the clamping surfaces parallel. It sits in the middle . The tool looks like a wine press ot 1st generation printing press. Something similar can be made using a pipe clamp. These are sized for 1/2" or 3/4" central pipes.
  9. Bruce, I wish to re enforce - if you have toast, but the wood is solid and not full of checks and splits, even if grey or blue, no better wood can be had for planking a hull. It is hard, very faint grain, no obvious pores, it bends like a champ, holds a crisp edge, takes a dye really well. Dyed black, it is probably easier to work and just as attractive a Ebony for wales. So it would not really be toast. I read a short story long ago, where the punch line - a sharp salesman had sold what he thought was junk (but was anything but junk) and had pulled one over a wealthy buyer, received a gift from the buyer = a block of solid gold painted to look like a brick.
  10. Bruce, Here in the US, Holly is a special case when seasoning. The fresh log contains a lot of water and the internal communication is such that no part is isolated. There is a fungus that lives with the tree and quickly infects the wood when the tree is felled. It is termed Blue Mold. It leaves the wood with a lt blue or grey color. The other properties of the wood are unchanged, so it is usable. It is just bot snow white. It makes for realistic sun bleached deck when grey. It takes dye well. If you find that your stock is similarly infected, It is still a superb wood for model construction, it is just not the unrealistic white favored by some for decks. The tree is too small to be used for a full size deck and no other tree has wood that color even when stone sanded. The way to obtain the white wood is to fell the tree in Winter, billet it and get it into a kiln - essentially all on the same day.
  11. Some individual members of the NRG have opinions about CA, but I can't recall much of anything being a "position". NRG is not that sort of organization, as far as I have seen. The two general standards that I am aware of: SHIP MODEL CLASSIFICATION GUIDELINES 1980 DEPT. OF SALES AND SERVICE MYSTIC SEAPORT MUSEUM MYSTIC, CONN MUSEUM STANDARDS AND SHIP MODELS: THE INFLUENCE OF PROFESSIONAL WEGNER,DANA M NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL 1994 39 44-49 MUSEUM STANDARDS IN SHIPMODELING WEGNER,DANA M SHIPS IN SCALE 1989 34 16-17 I am a "moldy fig" in this endeavor and the only synthetic or plastic that I am willing to use is PVA. 3D printers repulse me. But I am slowly coming to grips with the concept of becoming my grandfather.
  12. I was not as clear as I thought about the heavy duty folding shelf brackets. I would use them to make the actual bench top wider and deeper- with the addition at the front. One of the 'rules" I learned when a grad student in a research lab is = you can never have too much bench space. The casters - in case being against the wall blocks the side bench top extension and in case the room needed to be temporarily repurposed. A Byrnes disk sander could find a home there. I find mine to be a significant improvement over the MM version I used previously. Something like a couple of Sterilite Drawer Organizers mounted up under the bench top on either side.
  13. Additions that I would apply: drop down casters from Woodworkers Supply on the inside of eachleg. at least one power strip two "cranes" on the top of the back to site an LED shop light or two over the work area. an X brace on the two back legs folding shelf brackets on the side and perhaps the front Why build something if you can't over engineer it?
  14. You should consider the following in your process of coloring the wood: a stain is a form of paint, sits on the surface - semitransparent - so some of the wood shows thru. a dye penetrates into the wood - not on the surface - it enhances the natural grain. two types of dye - alcohol and water - alcohol has shallow penetration - dries quickly - does not affect wood surface. water penetrates more deeply - takes longer to dry and the first exposure to water can swell surface fibers - needing a sanding or scraping before finish. a way to fix this is to first apply just water - with 10-20% PVA to swell the fibers that will swell and the glue to lock them. sand or scrape after 24 hrs and then apply the actual dye solution. no more swelling, so no need to abrade the dyed surface. If you use crap wood, using a stain is a good choice. If you use expensive or attractive wood, use a dye so as not to hide what you paid for.
  15. There is a PDF and/or HTML from Hobby Mill (Jeff) covering the operation of the Byrnes saw and recommended blades . I would get a backup for each blade. The bevel cut option may not be cost effective. The cross cut sliding table is elegant but you could cobble something to do the same function from low cost materials. Do a search here for the saw accessories post. I regret not having the proper attribution here, but an excellent version of the cross cut table is shown - where the table is short enough on one side to allow the fence to stay. The deluxe fence is good to have as is the micro adjustment. I wonder if there would be a price break on shipping if several units were together - if more than one of your fellow countrymen did a group deal? Time has a way of having things available today, impossible to obtain in the future.

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