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About Jaager

  • Birthday 09/11/1946

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    Norfolk VA

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  1. 3 in 1 type oil or go to a pharmacy and get a bottle of Mineral Oil lubricant.
  2. Have you looked at the ANCRE monograph for Le Cerf 1779? It is also a cutter and clinker. The different construction for it is that the frames notched. The upper edges of the planks are thicker - the lands are mostly cut into the frames. Buenas suerte and buena fortuna on the clinker planking. I think it is significantly more difficult to do well than carvel.
  3. For you workbench and ready access: A block of Styrofoam 2 inches thick - The length and depth your choice - glued to a base of 1/2" plywood. Liquid Nails or maybe PVA to glue it - I know hot glue does not work and organic solvent based adhesives may melt it. My local Home Depot has 1' x 2' x 1" or 2' x 2' x 1" craft and project sized pieces, so you do not need a 4' x 8' sheet. Make holes or slits = ready access, will not dull edges I have more than one.
  4. Take the lamp off and use cable ties to fix the hose to the outer arm. A crevice tool at the end. gets it close to the action and it stays in place.
  5. Keith, I agree. I did not notice what was checked for the $20 bit. $70 is a different category. Still, for someone who does not intend to turn metal to make tools, but still thinks that a lathe is important to have for wood model parts and does not have money to burn, this may scratch that itch enough to save them from spending big bucks on a precision lathe and finding out that it is little more than a paper weight.
  6. River, this could be a worth while heads up. For $20, it is hard to go bad, even if it does not work out. Almost seems like the link should be to Harbor Freight. There is not all that much on a model that requires a lathe. This may do for windlass drums, capstan spindles. The following would probably not work out: Cannons would need to be wood, and belaying pins made of wood. ( Boy, wouldn't doing that about a hundred times be a load of fun?) There is no tool holder or micro adjustment. Rigging a duplicator looks impractical if wood is the choice. The sharp tools vs motor power is a clue that this is right at the edge of useful. I am betting that brass is right out.
  7. As an indicator of the characteristics the term Cedar is all but useless. It includes several genus groups and may be more than one family. Being an aromatic conifer may be all it takes.
  8. For at least one response - I have no actual experience with this species of wood. From the lack of reply, I guess that few have any experience either. The information that I read in the Wood Database points to it being a poor choice for any part of an actual ship model. It may make an interesting base. It may work for making jigs and other support components.
  9. Your ship related books and your tools - check with the nearest ship modeling club and see if they would be interested in inheriting this - maybe with enough money to support storage or dispersal. Over here, for the general subject books, perhaps the public high school could make money from selling those books that do not meet their needs.
  10. Allan, I have a bias and a reason for the omission , but unless this is for a cross section model, what is the reason for modeling butt chocks? With a full hull model, their presence would be all but invisible. In any case, they seem to be a critter pretty much limited to British construction. The same with singleton filler frames, also being almost exclusively British. I understand why they did it. They had more skilled labor than they had wood of the desired dimensions and an all but bottomless demand for the wood.
  11. I use the big saws and a thickness sander to get to one final dimension. The Byrnes saw to get the other. For example, deck planks - band saw / sander a plank to the width. The Byrnes saw to slice off the thickness = individual deck planks. For hull planking - band saw to thickness and Byrnes saw to a width that just allows spilling. Similar methods for beams, deck furniture. It will do more of the job. It can do this. It is just not the most efficient way. Framing = thickness sander - precision is more important than accuracy for frame timbers. I scroll cut my timbers from 2" wide stock. I use a 9" bench top band saw - 1/8" blade with a Carter Stabilizer in place of a scroll saw. I do not use the small band saw for anything else. My 10" table saw is essentially just a table. Getting where you want to go is an individual thing. It is nigh on to impossible to avoid buying tools that will wind up gathering dust, because they do not fit your methods. No shortcuts for this learning curve, I fear. A Byrnes table saw is a high quality tool. If it turns out to be a dud for you, it will re-sell easily - provided you have taken care of it. Shame that you are far away - especially if you have surplus Apple. Too bad about losing to Tenn. But at any rate, go Cats!
  12. Starting from the basics, were I starting from scratch - You are acting as a sawyer as well as a mill. First is attention to harvesting and seasoning. Seal all cut ends - even branches as soon as possible. Debarking and cutting into billets speeds seasoning helps get you ahead of fungus and wood boring insects. Always sticker for air circulation. Getting a log into billets and billets into planks - framing and planking thickness planks - is best done using a band saw. A for real band saw- 14". Do not cut corners on HP - that is false economy. I have a 3 HP 220V Rikon and would not want a less powerful motor. ReSawing eats band saw blades. Steel blades do not last long enough to pay back their cost. A carbide resaw blade lasts a whole lot longer. Long enough to be economical even at the $200 each cost. But there is a more cost effective alternative - a Lenox Diemaster 2 bimetal blade. They are $50 but last at least half as long as a carbide blade if not longer. With the species that you are cutting, the resharpening option is likely an illusion - the steel will crack from the work. No other band saw blade types are even candidates for resharpening. Limited budget or not, this tool is fundamental for what you want to do. Next is precise dimensioning. A Byrnes thickness sander is enough better than the other choices that there really is no choice. Now, this is the stage for the Byrnes table saw. There is nothing else close in quality. The trick is to match the blade to the job. Unless you are doing a particular sort of work that needs it, the tilting table option is not going to pay back its cost. The sliding table is a Formula One sports car. If you budget is limited, it is easy to make your own from lost cost materials. I forget who posted the picture of his version - but he sized the table to allow keeping the fence in place when using it. If you are cross cutting long stock - make two versions of the sliding table. To be practical, the Byrnes saw may in theory cut close to 1 inch stock and it may do for AYC, Basswood, or Yellow Poplar, for the species you have, you do not want to cut much thicker than 1/4" stock. Let the band saw to the heavy work. For what it is good at, there is none better than the Byrnes saw, just to not ask it to do jobs it was not designed for. A 10" table saw can sorta maybe get you billets from logs. It is not the job it is best at. It does not treat blades like they are Kleenex - that is true. But the waste to kerf is awful. The depth of cut is limited - several passes are necessary for 3 or 4 inch deep cuts. Each pass means more work for the thickness sander. It wants to eat your fingers. If any tool is a true luxury for the job of milling stock - it is a full size table saw.
  13. Hank, Yup, Norfolk. I am at the edge of Little Creek NAB (or joint something or other). the bark Eagle visits from time to time, Susan Constant was here once. Lots of good restaurants here. You seem to have missed the star over at Newport News: The Mariner's'Museum. A seminar over in the framing forum might be interesting. You are not too far from Hickory - once upon a time a center for quality furniture mfg. I would guess there are nearby hardwood mills. Not Boxwood, Pear or Holly - but a good price on Maple and Black Cherry and maybe Honey Locust?
  14. After some thought, rather than going Hahn style with every other bend omitted, the spaces are a bit wide, something new may be worth a try. I am thinking that Naval timber framing style look attractive for this ship. From a distance, it would look like Navy Board framing. I think actual Navy Board framing is not appropriate for ships built after the 1719 Establishments were issued. Never mind that it is very wasteful of timber stock. The three main timbers are just too long and too curved not to be inefficient in the utilization of wood. The old boys apparently cut their frames from solid sheets. Nice that they could get Boxwood and Pear in those dimensions. The first on the right is solid, 2nd is 19th C. 2/3 room 1/3 space, 3rd is Naval timber framing . 4th is Navy Board.
  15. The SI was impressed with Boston to use the lines on the cover of their warship plans catalog. Elegant lines. I bought the plans and worked the up for framing. R&S is 24.25" Using the scantling in Steele - the sided thickness of the frames leaves very little actual space - mostly enough for air circulation. As built, leaving off any planking to show the frames would display a solid wall of timber - with narrow gaps. This ship would work for frame display if every other bend was omitted and the frames were 12.125". Doing this saves on wood, too! I would use Steele as primary, and AOTS Conny and AOTS Essex to supplement. If there is no ship specific data and you make an informed guess, who has the bones to denigrate your choices? I would not let the lack of contract data stop me from building Boston. That there are many more ahead her in my queue, has her a low priority in my shipyard.

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