Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jaager

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Norfolk VA
  • Interests
    wooden sail pre-1860

Recent Profile Visitors

3,067 profile views
  1. Jaager, Thank you for noticing our mistake of placing the build in correct time-era.

    It has now been rectified. 


    Thank you

  2. I apologize for any perceived insult. We have a lot of inexperienced modelers here and I was reflecting back to the time when I zero knowledge and did not know what I did not know. Now, about your possible block species in the UK, is the wood that makes briar pipes domestic for you? The sections they discard because it is not burl should work. Is there not some sort of weed hedge with really hard wood? Any of it close to you? Do you have any Dogwood species? It is really dense wood.
  3. Based on the necessary mechanisms, to support a claim that their product can penetrate, at least part of the formulation would need to be a dye as well as larger pigment particles that intercalate with a surface polymerized binder. In theory, it should yield a higher quality result than a semi transparent paint alone. However, any surface coating of pigment in a binder seems like an insult to high quality wood. Wait a tick ,,,, given the quality of the wood species provided in most mass market kits, an obscuring surface stain would be an improvement there.
  4. It is to scream in frustration! The use of jargon with this causes confusion about which agents to use. A stain - the noun - applies to a semi transparent paint. It does not penetrate wood. It sits on the surface. It is largish pigment particles in a binder. A dye - is near single molecule pigment. It actually enters into the wood and becomes part of it. As commonly found, the pigment is either dissolved in water or alcohol. The water based version penetrates more deeply but also can swell surface wood fibers (raise the grain). The alcohol based version penetrates not as
  5. From your comments, it appears that you have a misconception about what it is that his being described. Deadflat does mean flat. It is about understanding what it is that is flat. At the midship - generally this is the frames about 40% of the distance from the FP. Almost never is the midship half the distance along the length. If a plank is placed against the outer face the frames here, it is parallel with the keel. There is no bevel, so it is flat. Beveling is tricky and bothersome to do, so it gained an accolade "deadflat: instead of just "flat". In old shell
  6. Roger, I have a definite bias about this, but in all of my observations, I find that the stations more than match frame locations. They define them. In every instance that I have encountered, a station line is the midline of a bend (paired frames). For POF framing of a model, where the lofting methods in current general use is employed, the stations are all but useless. This is certainly the case if a bend is glued up before a pattern is mounted then final shaping is done. This certainly an incentive to discount the importance of stations I see that there was a maj
  7. From the point of view of a home sawyer and saw miller, much time is involved in getting water out of wood and getting it equilibrate with atmospheric water concentration. Soaking a plank is undoing all that, if you even could get water deep into the interior. The natural glue that holds wood fiber together is not soluble in water in any case. It is heat that loosens the bond enough to allow the fibers to slide as individuals and then rebond when the heat as dissipated, Steam is more efficient than air at heat transfer. The hotter the steam the faster is the transfer. Liquid water does no
  8. This inspired me to investigate my archives. For a time, I explored building a model of HMS Prince 1670. This was at a time when I was teaching myself some skills on the drawing board, so no wood was ever in danger. My first step is to gather up as much information as I can find. Long ago, I bought: A set of 1:48 lines plans of the ship (model?), I think it is from the Science Museum. It is a really large photograph - on two sheets. A set of 1:96 plans ID'ed with CM (Clive Millward?). A folder of model plans 1:60 (POB - ugh) in Italian Teconmod
  9. In a parallel thread about downloading NMM drawings, there is a link to a Wiki commons site with JPEG of NMM plans. There are several for a Discovery 1789 including lines - They are for conversion of that ship to a bomb vessel. The vessel is not at all attractive.
  10. All and all, I think a quote from one of your countrymen applies here: "You don't want it."
  11. If the material presented for Discovery 1789 represents what you have to work with, and Discovery itself is a specific target, a bit of compromise in ambition may worth considering. There are no lines plans. Never mind Body, neither of the other two planes are available either. (A merchant ship, built in a private yard may have never had plans as we know them. If there were plans, they were probably viewed as disposable, either by the owner or his inheritors.) With a bit of obsessiveness, a reasonably accurate waterline model may be possible using the two NMM plans.
  12. Make friends with a nearby pharmacy tech. Some pharmaceuticals still come in small glass bottles and they are just pitched into the trash - unless the Rx is for the amount in the bottle. There are Science "surplus" web vendors who sell a variety of small glass bottles. I share your sense of wastefulness with your present process. But step back and look at a wider perspective. The variables involved with an alternative probably make it make it more "expensive" overall.
  13. Here there are two types. Black Locust - I think it is a legume and is able to grow in poor soil. I had some in my fence row. The seed pods resemble 5x large butter bean pods. If lawn litter is an issue, you do not want one. One Spring I was in the parking lot at Shakertown, and there were closely planted rows of Black Locust in bloom. Their perfume was bliss. The wood is resistant to rot due to ground moisture or termites - fence posts. As a wood for ship models, it is not very desirable. Honey Locust - I have a minor supply from a dealer in wood for smoking meat.
  14. I made an inquiry at The Mariner's about what this species is. They sent a copy of data about Washington Hawthorn. Here, firethorn is a name for Pyracantha. This is usually a foundation planted species. It is in the Rose family and is hard enough to serve for carving, but does not usually have much bulk. It is a stick most often. I planted a mail order lot of Washington Hawthorn while living in KY, but I only heeled it in, lost interest and sold the 5 acres it was on before the plants grew to any usable size. I have not found any since.
  15. AYC has slight grain, is tight,straight, no open pores, holds a sharp edge, the fibers do not roll - but is very soft, but it is harder than Basswood Red Alder seems to have an unobtrusive grain pattern, you would have to work it to see how well it holds a sharp edge - similar to AYC in hardness. ( As firewood, I suspect that a log does not last long and the ash to heat ration is not that favorable.) Hazel - a search yields ambiguous results as far as what it really is like as timber. One fork leads to Birch - which is close enough to Hard Maple in hardnes
  • Create New...