Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Jaager

  • Rank
  • Birthday 09/11/1946

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Norfolk VA
  • Interests
    wooden sail pre-1860

Recent Profile Visitors

3,428 profile views
  1. Almost never did the ends of F1 right and F1 left abutt at the middle of the keel. The ASA made a point of forbidding this in their rules. A small center piece of timber = cross chock. A larger timber over the keel = Cross piece A timber that has arms that about half those of the floor timber = half floor. Another way was to have F1-right side have an arm that extended across the keel an abutted F1-left on its side. The next bend would be F1 left with the long arm . This pattern would alternate. I have no clue as to Spanish practice. As far as I have seen, t
  2. The French seem to have been somewhat obsessed with mirroring the floor timber orientation at the midline. They also seem to have used all bends (paired frames). In North America, my observation was that an orientation was chosen and it was maintained from AP to FP. After The Revolution there was not often the midship nonsense. If there was, a close together double line of stations seems to be on the plans. The English did not always use all bends. In fact, it is my observation that it was a bit rare. They most often used two bends per station and filling frames inbetween or a bend per
  3. The bulwark framing on the cutter is spare when compared to large vessels. In most cases, there was planking inside as well as out. The tops and half tops are hidden and filler material can be used. The English seem to be alone in going out of their way to position the framing to be the actual sides of the ports. North America and France appear to have more material and just cut away what is in the way of the ports and add more in between. There were rules for the spacing of the ports as well as size and height. I think Davis gives a 1750 English rule - based on shot diameter.
  4. Kev, I leave any clamping on for ~12 hrs ( I have been using Titebond II since 1972 and have seen no reason to change. But I chose the water resistant version because we live on a water planet. ) Rather than rush the planking and possibly stress the bond, why not run two parallel projects? And skip to on coming sub assemblies on the Jolly boat? Bill, I use a square of Cut-Rite for the same purpose. I use a miniature sponge on a toothpick as an applicator and after the first leftover dries, I have an amber base for the next puddle. Several weeks and the base gets
  5. Bruce, Alan, Your subject of interest best belongs in the Painting Forum. It could seriously divert this build log. Copy/paste #296-299 to that forum and even though it is a subject that has many threads that intersect, it may have legs for a while. I can add a bit of clarification as can several others, but not here. An important aspect of it is that it is more opinion than Science. It is also a love me? love my opinion! sort of subject - a whole lot of emotional investment on the part of some. Mark, I have become a bit of a medical apostate. I am
  6. Because your tape is near wood color, I missed what you are doing. My initial thoughts: 0} If the tape was not uniform thickness everywhere the stock sits, the movement - up/down or wobble/rocking = bad cuts. But I see that the tape extends the length/width (front to back) of the table. 1} It would be a pain to change the tape with each new thickness to meet the fence. Then I see that the saw fence has enough slop for it to ride on top of the tape - which makes the tolerances of the machine less than impressive. 2} If there is any friction or resistance to sto
  7. Your blade is up too high.. I can see that having the edge of the blade closer to vertical has fewer teeth engaged, so there is less problem with filling the gullet, but with the crown at ~1/4" clearance -using a slower feed would work and protect you better. OK - armchair theory about eliminating the danger of kickback: If there is a Pine board on top of the billet and it has a second piece of Pine glued to it at the tail end that will sit behind the billet - push it - is also sitting on the saw table and is long enough - so long that when the billet is beyond the back edge
  8. Bill, All of HIC's published plans are available from The Smithsonian at 1:48 usually. Using the S.I. plans as a starting point is significantly better than messing with a scan from the book. The cost is $10/sheet and $5/12 for shipping, plus the wait time. Given the cost and hassle in replication - it may be economical to order 2-3 copies of it from S.I. Blue Jacket has a solid hull kit of a USRC - guessing that it is the 51 ton vessel = Standard: ITEM # K1106A |Kit: $145 | LOA: 19" Scale: 1/4"=1' The 31 ton would be a bit smaller and the 80 ton a bit larger. Not as mu
  9. There was a time when a shammy / chamois cloth was suggested.
  10. Here is a link for linen yarn that goes down to 90/3. https://store.vavstuga.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_code=yarns-linen-lace 90/3 means three strands of 90 LEA. ETSY can get into Baltic suppliers of raw linen yarn in cones to feed a ropewalk. Unfortunately the quality control could be better. If it was a lump that made it to the final twist up rope -it would just be an annoyance. With my machine, it produces a feed yarn break, which is another level of frustration.
  11. When I was a pup and in grade school, I had a 1 foot wooden ruler with a metal strip in a slot on one edge. When boxwood ruler blanks and old rulers are being proposed as a material to be repurposed for blocks and deck furniture, I immediately imagined that it was these old elementary school rulers, and not a carpenter's folding ruler. Even in the 1950's, I think Boxwood had been replaced with a less expensive hardwood species on this side of the pond. The school rulers are much thicker. The carpenter's rulers are generally not thick enough to be worth the effort as well as having inhere
  12. going into the area of speculation and supposition it seems as if you know that what you are proposing to do is likely to be a bad choice. Wishing to be told that it could work, you ask here. The likely consensus here is that if you are serious about milling, you are on the wrong path. If you are just on a lark, you should perhaps widen your possibilities a bit. I am thinking that speed is a useless standard if the machine lacks the power to maintain it when the cutter is exposed to a load. If you want light weight, consider trying a EuroTool DRL 300.00. It is a sm
  13. I checked Little Machine Shop - the model that is in your zone seems to be a version if a Sieg SX1P or SX1LP Not low cost or light weight, but it looks to be quality for a hobby machine. It is probably a good idea to make sure that the decision points that you use be ones that matter.
  14. On Grecian, note that the sides of the ports do not line up with this "as built" plan. If they wished to copy the design, I do not envy their version of an intern who would have gotten the job of reorienting the stations for the new version. Oh, and HIC did not completely redraw lines plans to his particular style. He duplicated and cleaned up the plans as he found them. He used the style of the original NA.
  15. The current kit database is no longer being maintained? I have no investment in this topic - for me, a more useful version would be a ship's plans database. From an academic and total outsider on this topic perspective: Would a WiKi type database with an editor as a filter be something that could be kept current? Perhaps those that are suitable as a first kit and second kit could have a special flag. For even more fun, maybe a value ranking for quality, price, how authentic as 3 more data points? Additional data to be included could be = currently availabl
  • Create New...