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  1. You could start your new log with: "for the steps preceding this point, see this log" and place a link to it.
  2. This is switching to a new lens with a broader view: MicroMark is a US agent for a line of DC powered tools from Kaleas Minitool , a German company. In the US marketed as the Micro-Make brand. One of the tools is a MicroLux® Heavy-Duty Right Angle Disk Sander / Drill. The power of the sander is greater than one would expect. There is a 3-jaw chuck for it, for drill bits, I have not tried that function. The tool is a box instead of a rod in shape. Certainly not inexpensive, it requires saving a lot of box tops. It is about the best power tool that I have found for sanding inside a POF hull. If you are drilling inside a hull and the bit size is #60 or smaller, there are a lot of inexpensive DC motors - small to very small and some have 3-jaw chucks - mini chucks. AliExpress - a Chinese agent for a bunch of their mfg - has a lot of choices for motors. I have not needed anything from there since the trade war began - no idea about its effect. Marlin P. Jones is a US supplier of small DC motors and a very useful = selectable output DC bench power supply for under $20 - the range is six levels from 3V to 12V. This is an easy way to control the speed. The motors are small enough that if you can get your hand in, it will work. The small gage of the power wires - they do not get in the way.
  3. CAD = computer aided design * (the verb may be a different one) Assumptions: You are starting with an existing plan and lofting hull components from it. The actual design has been done. You wish to replicate parts of that design at you target scale. Lofting In Painter I having been doing a lot of this (frame patterns for over 70 hulls). I use a raster based program. It does not do smooth curves as such. It does line segments. The more segments, the smoother the curve. Theoretically, what I get is a series of facets. I patterns that I print out look smooth enough to begin with and even if it were facets, I can not get anything but a smooth curve on the wood from my sanders. I use Painter 19 - I already had an earlier edition from my time with 3D CG. I could not justify the expense of Painter for just this part of its functions, were I just starting out. GIMP is free, but it is a Photo Shop clone and brings a heavy load of functions with it. Photo Shop will do it, but is not cost effective as a stand alone and a money sink on the Cloud if this is to be a continuing enterprise on your part. Paint Shop Pro is about $50 +/- and provided it can handle the potentially huge number of layers and large file sizes should be enough. Painter 12 could not handle my file size in a single file - it added random green blocks when some threshold was exceeded. Several smaller files solved that = Fore alone - one series, Aft alone another series- lofting at 1:48= one file , reduction to 1:60 in another, cutting the 1:60 frames into timber patterns a separate one or two files. It makes a big difference depending the size of the ship. A 118 gun liner stresses everything - all the way. A pilot schooner is a snack. Irrespective of your choice of raster program, you will only be needing a relatively few functions. SAVE - a function you will wish that you use more often than you do - unless you enjoy plowing the same furrow over and over. COPY, PASTE, CUT, SAVE - big help is having a gaming mouse with programmable buttons for these. I burned out the left click on several expensive brands. I am getting excellent use out of a Redragon M711 Cobra Gaming Mouse @ $20 I can burn thru a lot before I equal what a Logitech cost me and it is lasting longer to begin with. For a brush - a thin line - (Painter buries finding a useful brush within an incredible number of options.) Paint bucket fill tool - having frame lines as different colors helps in seeing what to cut - With two timber faces on a pattern I cycle just 3 colors R G B - in that order. I know if it is R G, red is always the midship face, if it is G B , green is midship, if it is B R , blue is midship. The placement of the floor timber matters. It is easy to get confused at the sander, A system helps idiot proof things. Rectangular Selection tool and Polygon Selection tool cover this function for me - plus any erase needed Magic Wand - good for removing the background from a scan and making a layer transparent except for the lines of interest. SCALE is vital so is Rotate selection I do not use many more functions than these. Not much of a learning curve. To begin, to save what I aim to print, I had select a canvas size that Windows Photo Viewer all not "adjust" for my printer. I use pixels as the dimension units. Home scanners to do not provide a 1:1 copy. I had to determine an adjustment factor for every scan. For MY Brother machine it is 102.5%. The first thing I do to any scan when I import into Painter is to SCALE 102.5%. Before I do anything else - bad results if I miss doing this. Once I found a page size that Windows will leave alone, I scanned a transparent metric ruler and printed copies at ever more precise scale adjustments until I got an exact match. This is tedious but necessary. After importing a scan, adjusting the scale, removing the background, the next fun ting to do is to rotate the scan back to vertical with your base vertical Y line and X baseline. The only concession I have made to CAD is that I saved a long thin vertical line using TurboCAD that I bought from an end cap display. The finest line that Painter will do is 1 pixel wide. I wanted thinner for within the program and a PNG import from TurboCAD provided that. The patterns that I work with can't be any finer than what a point is from my ink jet printer so the precision is limited to Painter.
  4. Mark, I did not notice until your replacement molds made it obvious, Belle was a bit of an out layer. The degree of hollow at the bow is more than Sea Witch even and Griffiths was heavily criticized for designing that. I wonder why Belle did not set a trend? Dean
  5. Jolly, If you have any ambition to go to scratch building, get as much and more of what Haiko is offering as you can even unrealistically handle.. Work a deal and use specie even. This is especially true if what is being offered is 4x4 or 8x4 (or your domestic equivalent of those dimensions). If your living situation is limited, long term rent a small storage unit. Debark, seal all cut ends ( surplus house latex paint will do if gobbed on super thick - a piece of Bounty will do for a brush) - sticker between pieces. Find a storage unit location that is not prone to termite or carpenter ant invasion. Maybe spread Borax fabric softener on the floor - kills roaches - maybe other beasties react against it too - study up. There is also a local species of Buxus there, see if you can get a bunch, a big bunch. If you do come over to the dark side, you will probably always regret it if you miss this. Think Scrooge McDuck in his vault of gold or Smaug in his. Get with your fellow countrymen who share this interest and pool your efforts. Let me add some of my perspective on this. I come at this from POF in the 1:48 to 1:60 range of scales. It is difficult to grasp just how much wood it takes to fully frame a ship at these scales. An impressive amount winds up as saw dust. Tackling a liner will give you a real appreciation for the stress on the treasurer who had to come up with the money to pay for a real one or the sawyer who had to obliterate a forest to supply the wood needed.
  6. Ab, I am not suggesting that actual frames would slide. Deane constructed about 4 design cross sections, the dimensions of their arcs were determined by various lines drawn on the initial profile - OK, their position determined their shape - so no sliding. It just seems to me that by later "adjusting" their location, interesting effects would be seen in the shape of the hull. I guess as long as the accepted rules were followed for design, a dud would not end a career. Take an off the wall chance on a design and if that is a dud, it would on to sweeping out a stable for a living. I see from the NMM plans that the RN seemed to be obsessed with using the top timbers to frame the sides of the ports. There are some labor intensive jogs drawn on some. I think the Dutch were in the decided majority in placing the ports where they wanted them irrespective of where the top timbers were. The majority seemed to have more wood higher up, so weakness was less of a problem - just add more wood to the other side of the timber. . The RN seems to have been rather spare with framing in the upper works. ---- if you plank everything above the LWL in and out on a model, it does not matter anyway. I make it a solid wall of framing up there. It locks the frames in position and turns a fragile area into a strong one.
  7. The sliding part is my conjecture. Whole moulding tends produce hulls with a generally similar conformation. Were I a designer at the time and was interested in producing something faster or more stable, doing the experiment of moving the fore and aft design stations and observing the effect. would only involve erasing lines that were a failure. Granted - the vellum was probably expensive and doing a lot of handling of elemental lead was gradually making the draftsman dumber. I have done a very preliminary lofting of the 7P IV , the big one that followed the famous 7P, compared to English and French contemporaries there is a long section in the middle where the shape does not change. It seems that more than a few 17th C Dutch plans available to us replicate the mid ship bend a bit more than those of other countries. It reminds me of a barge with a long sculpted bow and stern as opposed to the oft duplicated illustration of a fish superimposed on the profile of a race galleon - an attempt at streamlining? Where change is constant. Home waters that are a bit shallow - a deeper wedge shaped hull would sort of not work out too well?
  8. Following your encouragement - I will let the reins go a bit looser. I followed Anthony Deane's design instructions for a bit. I tried to use his Body section method to produce the shapes of stations at every second bend. It would have saved a lot of lofting. His was a version of whole moulding. It works OK using intervals similar to those that van Yk described - 4 points along the keel and since his was a drafting table method = using waterlines and buttock lines to fine tune the shape. Three of the whole moulded sections can be "slud" (moved) along the keel to get fatter or slimmer at the ends - fine tuning the design. But it is too blunt a tool to be effective for any shorter intervals. I thank you for providing the key to this insight. For presently used modeling methods for POF - lofting the outer and inner edges for both faces of every timber - the Body plan is mostly of no use. For pre 1860, I believe the Body plan was everything for the mold loft. It was only the stations that were drawn on the floor at full size. The patterns for the mid line of the bends that were at the position of each station was what was sent to the wood shaping crew. POB sort of uses this method, except that for kits too many stations in the middle get dropped and in any case, the surface area for the lands is not as wide as is really needed. I think we can thank Dizzy Dean for introducing slud as the past tense of the verb = to slide.
  9. It is not the design aspect that is my interest. It is something a lot more mundane. It is the mold loft product and what it actually was. I think the present description is true for very late 19th C thru early 20th C. It was probably heavily influenced by what was necessary for iron and steel. Materials that require much more precision and engineering, than does wood.. After 30-40 years of the dominance of iron, I think a short lived fad for large wooden hulls took hold and those workers and architects who were back to building larger wooden hulls had probably been filtered thru the 'new, modern' iron techniques and applied that to wood. At the beginning - the era of van Yk - starting with 4 lofted bends and all the other timber shaping done by eye on the ways, it was probably a long evolution until every timber was shaped using a pattern from the mold loft. I doubt that even by 1860, that degree of pre engineering was at all common. I suspect that the replacement of wood with iron for the larger hulls produced a situation where those with the necessary skills and experience to eyeball the needed wood cuts aged out and they did not pass on what they did to enough workers to support a large industry. Our practice of lofting every frame timber is a copy of what was done around 1900, but not the replication of actual practice before 1860 that we pretend it is.
  10. For almost all the parts on a plan that we will make, the size of a particular unit that we work with will fit on a 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper. It is satisfying to have the whole on a single sheet, but it is not necessary. My point is that a home copy/print computer accessory can do the job at a practical level. For the cost of a couple of $30 copies, you can almost buy a scanner/printer. The ink is so expensive that the printer can almost be a free item and they still make out like bandits. Just be alert to the "adjustment" in scale that each scanner "adds". The "return to 1:1" factor is constant for a specific machine, but different between machines. Using a pantograph now is pointless punishment.
  11. Ab, Thank you. A feud between two powerful shipbuilders each with an epic stubborn streak - perhaps a script writers explanation. Pieces are coming together for me on the evolution of west European Atlantic coast building methods. The method describer by van YK differs from the English et al. frame first method by not all that much. For this initial frame first method, no plans are needed if the key individual can "see" them in his mind. It is a result of being born a genius. It can't be taught, the in your mind part, but if lesser followers in other countries like this method and its more predictable results, they can learn to do on paper, what the first guy did in his head. While back home, the rules of the first guy are used. Dean
  12. Ab, Some of the old illustrations and ones that you have used, show the erection of about 3 to 5 bends along the keel that affect and maybe effect the exact shape the shell takes. Was this a part of the shell first method or the alternative one? Dean
  13. Generous thought, bad idea. The commercial guys use kilns and fumigation and probably other methods to keep from exporting diseases and insects along with the wood. The amateur export world has gained us Starlings, Japanese Beatles, Dutch Elm disease, Fire Ants, to name a few. If your guys are still sloppy about what comes in, I would not bet on their being any more careful about what goes out. The wood that you offer is from wide spread agricultural species. If you have something indigenous that is kept in check by your eco system, letting it out in this way could lead to a real disaster. This is a realm best left to professionals.
  14. Mark, Rather than cut into the spine to form a rabbet, scab a thin veneer that makes the keel wider. As thin as can be managed so that the planks look as though they dip into the keel. No way to tell now deep it really is. Was it a Jerry Lewis movie - Don't raise the bridge, lower the river? Dean
  15. From the link that Bruce D provided - its is obvious that the Suits have altered the design - sacrificing quality for profit, like that is anything but the rule. The old swivel is significantly larger and I bet the collets are less precise, not that the originals were up to anything but wood as a target.

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