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I think the sheer strake should fit flush with the top of each bulkhead.  Looking at the picture in the instruction manual that is what I think I see. As I dry fit the sheer strake it is not flush on each bulkhead. While looking at build log photos I see where some bulkheads are above the sheer strake esp at the bow. Which is how my build is progressing. I am not saying wrong or right...I certainly don't know. My question is: Am I right, should the sheer strake be flush with each bulkhead and if it isn't is there any reason I can't sand it flush later ? Here is the picture. NOT MY BUILD It could be wood temporarily added or maybe just the angle 

3.jpg

Edited by rudybob
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lets see if we can get this going.

I am writing in theory here - so perhaps someone who actually knows will help.

If you did not loft the molds yourself, it may be that you are placing too much trust in their being accurate.

Is not the sheer strake the plank that is just under and up against a rail?   The rail location is the more important component.

If you can fix the hull to a base - and have it midline (stem and sternpost) vertical  - jigs can be made that measure the height of the rail at every mold.

The molds can be trimmed or shimmed as required.  The sheer strake can be spilled to fit the space.  It will be up to you whether to do the rail first or place the rail on top of the sheer. 

 

If the space is not a perfect fit - many ships had a small decorative under the rail strip. It was not as far out as the rail.  It would sit on the sheer strake.   These are NMM multi decker plans and they appear as though the rails were super thick.  I think a more reasonable construction would be two parts.  The under piece would be like crown molding.  There is no reason that a boat could not have this.

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Hello rudybob,

 

(Disclaimer: I have not built this model before)

 

I don't see why the sheer strake would not follow the bulkheads. That is after all what they are there for. A quick search for "English Pinnace" on MSW turned up a number of useful build logs showing how this plank should lie:

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22234-18th-century-pinnace-by-delf-finished-model-shipways-124-scale-small/?do=findComment&comment=678179

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/27044-english-pinnace-by-ericwilliammarshall-finished-model-shipways-scale-124/?do=findComment&comment=783869

 

In any case, if you can't get it perfect I wouldn't stress about it since it will be covered up by the decoration as @Jaager mentioned.

 

Lastly, it would really help if you mention what model you are building when posting questions like these. ;)

 

Cheers,

starlight

 

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