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Posted

Spurred on by a build report on the DeAgostini Sovereign of the Seas and after this kit was no longer available, I decided to build the DeAgostini HMS Victory.

 

I started looking for a complete set. On a larger online auction site, I promptly found what I was looking for. 150 booklets and a started hull, all together for EUR 400,  I couldn't resist.

 

Since the completion will take some time, I have decided, to build the Cross Section model 1:72 (booklets 131-151) first.
I thought 21 construction stages would be quick to build, no way.

Posted (edited)

This is the first picture I took from the build:

pic001.jpg

 

I didn't like the suggestion to imitate the grille bars of the pump house door with toothpicks (2mm ø). It looked too clumsy to me, so I imitated the steel using 0.8 mm ø carbon rods.

From the front I cut v-shaped slots with a scalpel, covered with white glue and glued some oak veneer over it.

 

pic002.jpg

Edited by Heliart
complement
Posted (edited)

Then painted with Vallejo White and imitated the wood grain with Earth Brown.

 

pic003.jpg

pic004.jpg

pic005.jpg

 

Because the model is a bit bigger with 1:72, I broke the edges of the planks of the inner lining, to expose the rustic at the very bottom of the storage space (see previous pictures).

Edited by Heliart
Posted (edited)

In the meantime, I've reached the orlop deck and worked on the deck planks.

 

For the first "real" deck planking, I laid the planks in "Four Butt Shift" bond (Goodwin). I am not sure if this is correct. The literature is contradictory as to whether the planks are caulked  or laid loosely in order to access the storage space underneath.

 

The caulking I made with construction paper strips (cardboard 0.3mm thick). The strips will be cut back with a scapel after gluing . The best time to do this is when the white glue is still soft.

 

 

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pic007.jpg

Edited by Heliart
wrong translation
Posted (edited)

I worked out the openings for the bilge pump and the mast.

 

The breakthroughs really made me.
The instructions sayed that you should be careful because the deck breaks quickly at that point.
Because I glued the clay paper between the planks, the deck broke away several times while I was working on it. Then i had to glue and wait for it to dry. I had to learn that it was best to use a small hand drill with a 1 - 1.5 mm drill bit . Then put hole after hole next to each other and the whole thing with as little pressure to the deck as possible.


Then I used a fresh, very sharp blade to cut away the small ridges between the holes. After that I used the scalpel to work my way up to the pencil mark with very fine carving movements. Carving movement always parallel to the plank.

 

I worked out the holes with a round needle file with rotary movements to the nominal dimension. For the mast, I used 240-grit sandpaper, turned into a roll.

 

pic0010.jpg

pic0011.jpg

Edited by Heliart
Posted (edited)

Next up were the gunports and entrance ports.
Since I didn't want to drill a lot of small holes again, I used a different technique:

- I put a small hole in each corner of the single gate.
- in the center of the gate a fifth hole, which I widened so much that the saw blade of my model saw fit through.
- Then in each case a small saw cut from the center to the holes in the corners
- With the scalpel, a horizontal cut from one hole to the other.
- This way, the upper and lower triangle can be easily broken out (see picture).
- and then with the model saw two vertical cuts (s. picture)
- final I carved down to the markings with a fresh blade.

 

 

pic0012.jpg

pic0013.jpg

pic0014.jpg

Edited by Heliart
wrong description corrected
Posted (edited)

The second part of the pump house is set.


The floor stringers and knee braces are painted and glued and more deck beams are painted white and fitted.

 

pic0015.jpg

 

And I tried my hand at the first sea chests.

pic0016.jpg

pic0017.jpg

Edited by Heliart

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