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Posted

I'm at the point of the running rigging in my AL Jolly Boat.  The instructions and plans make no mention of termination points nor are there any parts in the kit for such.  I'm not too terribly concerned about historical accuracy, as we know this is a fictious representation of the boat Bligh and his crew didn't use when set adrift.  I've decided to use cleats of my own creation, as best as I could come up with.  The one on the left is my first attempt from last spring, and will not be used, the one on the right is what I will be using, shown prior to staining and inserting the nails.  Sorry for the poor quality photo.

 

IMG_0648.thumb.JPG.2c7a837d4ce24710d9ac297a3a944297.JPG

 

Now I just need to decide where to put the cleats for my belaying points.  I think placing them now will be easier than after I set the shrouds and stays.  The tacks of the stay sail and jib sail are attached to the boom.  I’m thinking the clews  lines can run to cleats on the thwart just to the starboard side of the jib/mast lashing, shown in green.  The peak lines run thru a double block up the mast and I’m thinking they can be secured to cleats on the thwart just to the port side of the jib/mast lashing, shown in red.  That leaves the gaff halliard and boom lift lines.  From what I’ve read, these lines need to be secured as close to the mast as possible.  The only place I can see would be the mast hole cover, just aft of the mast with one port and one starboard, shown in blue.  Not too terribly excited about that location but I think its better than the thwart aft of the mast as I think that location would/could interfere with the boom sail (spanker) and I believe the jib/mast lashing thwart is busy enough.  Here is a top view to help you see what I’m talking about.

 

1938836625_cleatlocations.png.4b6481ccbf69f9f47b1b3c2cb8907e02.png

 

Your thoughts, suggestions, instructions or great pieces of wisdom are readily accepted and greatly appreciated.  If I’m making a major error (such as AL's instructions for the boom tackle) I sure would like to know now than after I’ve drilled holes and applied CA.
 

Take care and be safe.

 

kev

 

Current Build:  HMS Bounty's Jolly Boat - Artesania Latina

On the shelf:  Oseberg #518 - Billing Boats

Posted

A mystery that I pondered for quite a while during construction of my Longboat model.

 

As we have discussed, these boats were intended to do double duty as rowing and sailing boats.  There were times when they were used in actual combat; landing sailors and marines, and “cutting out” of anchored enemy vessels.  Murphy is alive and well at sea, and a cleat would be ideal for snagging the leg of a sailor while boarding a hostile vessel on a dark night.  I therefore eliminated any belaying points attached to the hull that could not be removed when the boat was not rigged to sail. Belaying pins are removable.  I restricted cleats to those attached to spars.

 

As a small boat sailor, I was taught to never belay a sheet (for obvious reasons). Old seamanship books stress this point repeatedly too.

 

Nothing very specific, but points to consider.

 

Roger

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Peanut6 said:

a fictious representation of the boat Bligh and his crew didn't use when set adrift. 

Kev,  Your comment brought a huge smile because that is the truth of it as you know.  So many folks buy this kit thinking it represents the boat Bligh sailed with his 18 shipmates when it does no such thing. 

 

Sorry I cannot help on the belaying issue.  I did spend a little time going through some photos of ships' boats at the RMG site, but did not find any contemporary models that were rigged.

 

Allan 

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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