Polaris by UMH - OcCre - 1:50 - first build

[UMH]

Hello everyone,

In my introduction I was invited to write a build log. Of course I don't want to miss this opportunity. Firstly, because I am a beginner and can certainly use some support. Secondly, I would like to participate in the forum in some way. Based on some research,

 

I decided a few weeks ago to buy the Polaris kit from Occre in 1:50 scale. Since there are already some good reports here in the forum in which the kit is presented, I decided to start building it right here.

 

 For the sake of simplicity, I have written most of the text in German and had it translated with Deepl. I hope it fits. 🙂

 

 

After everything was unpacked and the missing tools were delivered, I started to separate the frames. I smoothed out the separation points with a small file.

After I had sanded the surface briefly, and dry-fitted the frame together. Since everything fitted, I was able to use white glue and glue the whole thing together.

 

 

The next step was the deck planking. I didn't want to rely on the instructions alone, but also to consult the technical literature.

Years ago I bought the book Historische Schiffsmodelle by Wolfram zu Mondfeld. And I would be happy if I could finally understand what it says. 😉

 

 

The instructions provide for the laying of whole planks. The joint is indicated with a pencil. I originally had the idea not to do this but to lay individual planks according to the usual 1-2-3-4-1. However, I decided against it and laid whole strips. 

 

Before laying, I tried to colour the edges with a pencil. But I did not succeed as I wished. After I had tried a felt pen on a leftover piece, I coloured the edges with a black felt pen.

 

In retrospect, it was a mistake after all. The black paint ran more into the wood than I would have liked. For a short time I had hoped to get rid of most of it after sanding. But that hope was in vain.

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, one could say that ships only looked so great when they were brand new 🙂 And how the tar between the planks really looked... no idea

Unfortunately, one plank was damaged during sanding and I had to carry out a repair.

 

 

So, that's it for today. Thank you very much for reading along and have a wonderful evening. 🛏️

 

Greetings

Daniel

[allanyed]

Daniel,  As it is a predominant part of the finished model, you may want to consider buying some replacement strips of wood and remaking the deck. At your scale, acrylic paint or black tissue paper are great ways to indicate the tarred seams.    I tried several methods when we were working on the Euryalus project and included the following:

 

From Volume 2 of Frigates of the Royal Navy, HMS Euryalus page 10

.........The first is to use tinted glue. In requires only a single small drop of black or burnt umber gouache or acrylic artist paint to a puddle of aliphatic glue.  We recommend making a batch with a small bottle of glue rather than many small batches.  Add enough paint to give a dark tint to the glue and keep track of the ratio of paint to glue.  In this way, additional batches can be made with the same tint level.  Using this method, glue must be carefully applied to the entire edge of a plank without breaks.  If the builder has concerns about the glue being weak, untinted glue can be used where the plank fays to the frames and tinted glue on the edges of the planks.

            The next method is to paint the edge of the plank.  Acrylic artist colors are readily found and one small bottle will be enough for the entire model.  Use this right out of the bottle or tube, do not thin it.  Once the paint has dried, the plank is glued in place. Any paint that may get on the outboard face of the plank will be scraped or sanded away once the hull is finished.  The edges can be darkened with a pencil in place of the paint.  This is far easier and presents a similar result. 

The last method that we used was simulating the caulking with tissue wrapping paper that is often used inside gift boxes.  The material is found in most craft stores in a variety of colors and is much thinner than craft or construction paper.  Black craft paper is far too thick for ⅛″scale, and may appear a bit heavy to some even for ¼″ scale.  Once the plank is ready to be installed, a bead of thinned white glue is run on one edge.

 

Allan

[UMH]

 @allanyed 

Thank you very much . I also think it is best to re-plank the deck again. Otherwise I will only be annoyed afterwards. I ordered new lime strips today.

I will try both methods (acrylic and pencil). And I'll compare the results and share them with you.

Do you actually use contact glue? I have heard that these can come loose after a few years. What are your experiences?

 

Kind regards 

Daniel

 

 

 

 

 

[allanyed]

Hi Daniel

I have always used carpenter's glue for wood to wood.  I have no had issues with the blackened glue or tape or pencil lines in 40 years so not a bad track record.  The blackened glue also works well for keel and other similar items where the joints would show.  So little is needed to darken the mass that it does not weaken the bonding action at all.

Allan

[UMH]

Unfortunately, I am still waiting for the new planks for my deck to be delivered. I have used the time again for research. At Billing Boats I came across the hint that you can also reproduce the calfaterung with a string.

 

I have now tried this with a few leftover pieces. Does anyone have any experience with this method?

Planks are laid butt to butt. Is calfolding also done in between?

And doesn't this also apply to planking in general?

 

 

Greetings

Daniel

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Ahoy Daniel !    One can see a number of approaches in the various builds in the Forum.  One builder used black crayon sparingly on the edges, which did not 'soak in' at all. After decking excess seemed to clean up OK with some scraping/sanding.  That having been said, I want to use the black thread method on all the joins (including the ends) the next time I plank a deck.  The thread should not be too thick, and the picture you posted looks fine.

 

  My guess is that using a small wood scraper (sparingly) will not produce the fine dust that sanding can make.  If sanding dust gets in the small gap between the planks, it might take s very fine brass coat brush to help get the particles out ... or with blasts of compressed air. If 'Dust Off' doesn't work, that of an air compressor should.

 

  Whatever method you want to try, doing test piece with a number of planks (they don't have to be good modeling wood) is highly recommended.  You can then judge the results for yourself.