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If you have not nicked the blade, or cut metal,  it may be sufficient to strop the edge.

 

A scrap piece of leather and a bar of green, gold, or rouge compound.   "Color" the leather with the compound.

Draw the blade away from the edge.

It is  good to do this after every few cuts.

If you have really dulled the edge, a whetstone - most are now synthetic. - with these the edge leads the way.

There are a ton of different but emphatic ways for how to do this out there for the Googling.

 

It may be more time economical to discard the blades this time - tape them or something  - to keep them

from being porcupine quills thru the trash bag.   With new blades, strop often and see if they last longer.

 

There are #11 shaped knives with a wide range of widths - they are not disposable - they are also expensive.

 

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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