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Posted (edited)

A becket is the loop (eye) of rope on one end of the block. It typically takes the standing end of the tackle fall. The fall is the rope that reeves through the sheaves of the blocks. The standing end is the end of the rope that is fixed (does not move), with the other end of the rope being known as the running or hauling part.

 

Sometimes the becket is part of the block strop. In other applications the becket is a separate loop of rope attached to the strop.  The standing end of the tackle fall is fastened to the becket using a becket bend (I know, creative naming).

 

Regards,

 

Henry

Edited by popeye2sea

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I guess I'm a bit late here. Given the small scale (1/8" scale, correct?), have you considered just "faking" the beckets by using your halliard to strop the block and then continuing it on to run through whatever tackle it's part of? 

 

That's what I do when I have a becket block that's too small for a real becket (blocks maybe 1/8" or smaller).

 

Let me know if that makes sense.

Edited by catopower
Posted

I have just started rigging blocks and have both created beckets and faked them.

 

My gun rigging as an example of faking.  1/8th" blocks with 0.012" rope.  The blocks are a correct 7" in scale.  The smallest hooks I could make were 7" long (grossly out of scale).  If I had used beckets I would have needed another scale 10 or so inches for three beckets and seizings and my blocks would almost touch.

 

Screenshot_20250429_125322_Gallery.thumb.jpg.a6ab26ca06e81acfd3c1927f1fb5adf4.jpg

 

So with the lower double block I just inserted what would have gone in the becket (brass hook), skipped the seizing, and closed the strop on the other side with an overhand knot and a dab of thin superglue to penetrate the knot.  Side cutting cuticle cutters clean up the loose ends nicely.

 

Otherwise I create beckets thus - form the becket with the stropping line and seize the desired loop.  Affix with thin CA glue. 

 

20250114_070216.thumb.jpg.1174d636c85a5ed2952eeac65f9b537c.jpg

 

When dry, insert desired block against seizing and between the two free ends, secure with overhand knot and thin CA glue. Trim.

 

My tiller rigging has beckets actually seized in but the blocks are much bigger at probably 3/16" to 1/4".

 

20250202_124011.thumb.jpg.2f04ede0110caf97468dbe783f1f234a.jpg

 

Unfortunately my seizings with fine fly tying thread are 10-14 wraps and still almost 1/8" in length.  6-7" of seizing between becket and block would look crazy I think.

 

It is easy to look up how to do these things in the real world (think Lever's Sheet Anchor for example) but translating real world configurations into scale effects is what is hard to find.

 

Here is another great approach.

 

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/16179-my-humble-method-of-making-strops-for-blocks/

 

Just some thought on my recent experiences.

Steve

 

San Diego Ship Modelers Guild

Nautical Research Guild


Launched:    USS Theodore Roosevelt, CVN 71 (1/720, Plastic)

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