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Posted

Hello everyone,
I’m new to this forum and relatively new to ship modeling.

 

I'm now working on my second project and I deliberately chose a simpler kit with the intention of upgrading it where possible. I chose the Henriette-Marie by Billing Boats as I am particularly interested in small working boats and pilot cutters, so the Henriette-Marie seemed like a suitable subject. Also I was greatly inspired by Gaffrig's work, which built a wonderful model out of this kit.

 

During the planning phase, I started evaluating different hull color schemes. My initial idea was a classic configuration: black topsides with a white sheer stripe and red antifouling on the bottom, similar to the Marie-Fernand pilot cutter.

marie-11.jpg.30062ab9980629de16b034cd2bbc3718.jpg

 

I also prepared a few visual mock-ups to evaluate the schemes.

HM1.thumb.png.8b3b3d05a9aa4f574c7be0fd3077dd48.pngHM2.thumb.png.3e357f3a7eb0711f2bfc389468a8841c.pngHM3.thumb.png.c64a523b57e1eb412c5f7427db172a3f.png

 

Since the hull lines and the plumb bow are, in my opinion, a strong feature of this model, I am now considering applying a second planking and limiting the paintwork to the upper part of the hull only.

 

Do you think this approach makes sense for this specific model?

 

In addition, I would appreciate your advice on the following points:

Which wood would be most suitable for the second planking in this context (fine grain, stable, suitable for partial painting)?
Would it be advisable to replace the kit keel and remake it entirely in solid wood, or is it visually sufficient to veneer the existing plywood keel?
 

Any technical feedback is very welcome.

Thank you!

Posted

Western Red Cedar, Mahogany, and Basswood I hear are good choices for hull veneers.  I just used veneer to plank a solid hull Golden Hind and it turned out beautifully!  I did paint the hull afterwards but I wanted the plank lines to show threw the paint. Just making sure that your hull is perfectly smooth and correct prior to applying the veneer because after you apply it, you can not make corrections to imperfections in the hull. 

Posted

Thanks everyone for the replies!

 

On 12/8/2025 at 6:30 PM, wmherbert said:

Here's one

Bill

20240112_121505.jpg

 

Bill, that’s a very nice build. I see you upgraded the companionway—if that’s the correct term in English. I’m planning to do the same on mine.
Any recommendations before I start this kit?

 

5 hours ago, Old N Salty said:

Western Red Cedar, Mahogany, and Basswood I hear are good choices for hull veneers.  I just used veneer to plank a solid hull Golden Hind and it turned out beautifully!  I did paint the hull afterwards but I wanted the plank lines to show threw the paint. Just making sure that your hull is perfectly smooth and correct prior to applying the veneer because after you apply it, you can not make corrections to imperfections in the hull. 

 

Thank you as well, Old N Salty, for the advice. Red cedar planking might be hard to find here in Italy, so I was considering mahogany; its reddish tone should imitate antifouling quite well. I’ve read that basswood isn’t ideal if the hull is left unpainted. Is that accurate?

 

Thanks.

Posted

Hi AldZtt,  basswood is what I used to plank my solid hull Golden Hind.  It was leftover I had from another build and I knew I would be painting over it.  I used plain wood glue and straight pins to hold the planks when needed on extremely curved areas.  Afterwards brushed a little water on the pin holes and they disappeared, or pressed the hole with some fine saw dust from an unused piece of veneer.  I hope all is well in Italy.  It's such beautiful county and makers of great wine and ship models!

Posted

Forgot to say that I believe mahogany would be beautiful. And if you paint the upper top side of the hull black, you have to put the other white trim on it.  Bye the way, is this your first Billings model?

Posted

I did not double plank my hull.

I did take a series of photos of the building process as well as kept track of the time each step took if you are interested. 

    It's a nice model to build even with the typical Billings instructions or should I say, lack of instructions.

Bill

Posted

My only Billing kit was the Bluenose II bought about 4-5 years ago.  I got it on sale from Model Shipways for $36.00.  I recall the lack of instructions and the kit even lacked the two props that the Bluenose II has.

Posted

It’s my first Billing Boats kit. I’m aware the instructions aren’t particularly clear and that the quality isn’t on the same level as other manufacturers, but I found it at a good price as well. I already finished the Virginia from Artesania Latina; everything was fairly straightforward, even if I would have changed the order of certain steps. Most of the issues I had were simply due to my own inexperience.

I’m hoping I’ll manage to work my way through the build despite gaps in the instructions.

 

On 12/10/2025 at 6:33 PM, wmherbert said:

I did not double plank my hull.

I did take a series of photos of the building process as well as kept track of the time each step took if you are interested. 

    It's a nice model to build even with the typical Billings instructions or should I say, lack of instructions.

Bill

Thank you for the offer, Bill. If I run into issues along the way, I may take you up on your help, of course only if it’s no bother.

Posted

There is actually no right, nor wrong way to do things here! Build the model to suit what looks good to 'you'! Nothing else matters... unless you are striving for 100% historical accuracy. You'll never get that straight out of 'any' kit. With a kit you want to develop skills and build something that will look very nice when displayed in your living room! With Billing, just use your eye and fill in the gaps with whatever looks appealing to your eye!   

"The journey of a thousand miles is only the beginning of a thousand journeys!"

 

 

 

 

 

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