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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. I still have all of the N-gauge track and rolling stock from my youth, packed away in a box in the fading hope that one of my kids might one day be interested.
  2. Now finished with Step 6, lockers and gallows. The particular gallows (correct term?) shown below was a bit of a challenge. Again, the kit includes printed posts and crossbeam, but I replaced these with wood. The two bowed pieces are from the laser-cut detail set. The set included a hook as well, but it was tiny and kind of clunky looking. No matter -- my stupid tweezers tips slipped and flung the tiny part into another dimension. I tried cutting out the printed hook, which was a fruitless endeavor. The solution? A tiny strip of curled paper soaked in thin CA. Hard to see it in this photo. Heck, hard to see it period. And because David likes something in the photo for scale, here's a pic featuring one of my digits. No, I did not used forced perspective -- my finger was actually that close and the model really is that tiny. 😉 Next up: THE WINCH! 😮
  3. An observation I made last night while working on the life jacket lockers is that the locations for these are not marked on the printed kit parts. Typically on a card model like this one, the locations of things like lockers are marked by white spaces, which is why we card modelers call this part of the construction sequence "killing white spaces." But if you look closely at the model, you can see the uninterrupted printed coamings around the various deck structures where the lockers will be placed -- no white spaces. I presume that the life jacket lockers are required by the ship's current status as an excursion vessel; I'm guessing the way the kit is printed was purposefully done to allow a modeler the option of building Waratah more as she would have looked as a working vessel, e.g. sans life jacket lockers. Another nice touch about the kit that I don't think I have mentioned yet is that all of the printed parts needed for particular sub-assemblies are grouped together inside printed boxes on the parts sheets. This eliminates much of the hunting for parts that is required for most kits.
  4. We lose a lot of zealous newbies in the "Valley of Despair" -- they just need to stick with it until they get to that "Plateau of Sustainability."
  5. With this update, I'm now finished through Step 5 of the construction process. The forward companionway and the locker aft of it were easy enough. The superstructure was more challenging. It consists of of two sections, which I prefer rather than having the whole thing as one piece. The forward half had joiners to bridge the gap between the port and starboard walls. But once I got both halves finished and placed them on the deck for a test fit, I discovered that the walls of the forward half were about 1mm too long on each side. So, I had to remove the joiners, trim off the excess length, and re-do the folds -- nothing too difficult, but it took a little time to do carefully and make sure everything fit correctly. I then glued the two sections of wall to the deck, added a replacement joiner to the forward section, and also added some thick cardboard to the insides of the walls to make them straighter and more rigid. Next up will be the various life jacket lockers. Incredibly, they actually have the words "life jackets" printed on them, which -- at this scale -- can only be read under high magnification; at normal viewing distances, they just look like a smudge. 😜
  6. I'm no expert, but it looks like the hull would need significant modification to make room for any RC gear.
  7. Not much to show for today. The big headache at this point was creating the eight mooring posts. These were originally to be made of card, obviously, but they are so tiny that folding them properly was a real pain, and I didn't like the results. So I decided to replace the paper parts with wood square stock. The kit includes microscopic angle braces for the posts, but I have omitted them, because they are just way too tiny to work with. I also did the little deck at the stern, the rub rails, and the aft companionway. Now it's on to the main superstructure.
  8. Hallo, Tobias. Do you work for BMW by any chance? BMW's North America plant is just a few kilometers away from me here in South Carolina.
  9. The person to direct your question to would be Tomek (0Seahorse), since he designs card models that utilize just such a planking technique.
  10. Okay, today I got the hull sides on -- quite the trial, as it usually is for me with these things. The worst booboo that resulted was a gap of about 2mm between the two side pieces at the stern. I filled the gap in with card stock and touched everything up as best I could, but the ship's name will forever appear as "WAR ATAH." I also replaced the printed cap rails and stanchions with the optional laser-cut parts -- the entire cap rail, from stem to stern, and the amidship stanchions are a single part, one on each side. That bit was not as difficult as it may sound, and I like the finished effect.
  11. Yes, that's correct. That's essentially what the spacers are doing. On my next small card model (whenever that should be), I'm seriously considering using a plywood underlayment for the entire deck and removing the requisite amount of material from the hull formers. For the HMV USS London kit, which I reviewed a few months back, there is actually a 3D printed hull available to which one affixes the hull skins. It costs about $55(!), but I think it is worth adding to my Christmas wish list.
  12. The last 24 hours have been a trying time for the construction of poor Waratah. First of all, I had to double some rather large parts (including the deck in last night's photo -- this actually happened prior to the previous post), so I went to the garage to give them a shot of 3M 77. When I came back to my man cave, the AC kicked on, which flipped one corner of the paper towel I was carrying sticky parts on. The deck and some other parts landed sticky sides together. 🤬 Happily, I was able to get everything apart without too much obvious damage. Then, I left my desk for several hours, and when I came back the deck had warped significantly. So I did my best to straighten it out and then left it under the glass sheet overnight. Fast-forward to today. Once I got the deck glued down, I was treated to the dreaded STARVING COW look. 🤬 I still haven't figured out how to defeat this particular card modeling nemesis. So I spent most of the day cutting spacers from bits of scrap plywood veneer and using those to shore up the sagging areas. I now have the run of the deck edges sufficiently straightened, to my eye, and am ready to tackle the hull sides. That task will require some trial fitting to see if I need to remove bulkhead material anywhere. One unintended side effect of building such a small model is that simply cropping a photo of the hull properly results in something like an enlargement. Hmm.
  13. Beautiful subject with an old-school kit design -- it will be interesting to see how this comes together!
  14. So I finally got some time to work on this project, and here's what I've done so far. Base plate, longitudinal profile, and bulkheads. As is my habit, I cut the glue tabs off of the base plate. I laminated the bulkheads onto card stock and wicked thin CA into the edges so that I could sand them. Afterwards, I began to think that this might all be overkill for a model that is only 113 mm long, but oh well, too late. Here are the deck parts. Many of the parts, including the deck itself, are doubled, and a few of the parts will be replaced by laser-cut details. One nice feature of this kit is that all of the deck furniture will be mounted on form-fitting card bits that will be glued down to the main deck; this will eliminate both the usual glue tabs and the need for my furring strip technique as seen in my Tijger build. Another thoughtful feature, though I haven't needed to use it yet, is that many parts that don't have enough room for a part number to be printed on the face side of the piece have the number printed on the reverse side, just in case the modeler forgets which part is which after cutting it from a parts sheet. Next will be cutting and dry fitting the hull sides before gluing the deck and sides to the hull skeleton (shudder) -- this is where the dreaded "starving cow" look might crop up. Fingers crossed!
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