Oseberg by md1400cs - Ships of Pavel Nikitin - 1/32 scale - with hopefully many added details.

[md1400cs]

Hi,

It’s been over a year since I have posted here at MSW. Yikes - my Sovereign was recently finished as a hull model (I will add some closing images to that log)

Now I will start Pavel Nitiken’s 1/32^nd Oseberg log. I finally received it. I chose the smaller of the two kits as the 1/32^nd which is about 7” (18cm) shorter than the 1/25^th.

 

This/these kits are so detailed right out of the box!! - I will also try to add extra details to this current build, but they will be harder to incorporate as they were for the Sovereign given the already excellent products that Pavel and his team provide with all of their kits. The Oseberg is so excellent. The 1/32^nd is just as detailed - out-of-the-box - as the larger 1/25^th.

 

My reference book will also be of great value. The Oseberg Ship by V. Bischoff. It was written for her PHD thesis specifically about every detail of this amazing 1,200-year-old ship. My understanding is that Pavel’s team also used this book - especially for the rigging and sail details.

 

As an aside; the Oseberg Museum in Norway is closed until 2027 - a MAJOR upgrade is in full construction. IMO, it will be as impressive as the Vasa Museum. Link if you are interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyGE7WAs4Bk

 

=========

 

I won’t follow this build in its proper order as I am waiting on the new mast step kit to be sent from Ukraine. There were some concerns in regard to both of Pavel’s Oseberg kits regarding the missing mast step “bump” on the deck. So, he made upgrades available for both size kits. Conditions are so difficult in Ukraine that this pre-ordered and paid for part won’t be shipped - according to his site and my order status, for still quite a while. TBD

 

So, I will work around the missing mast framing for now.

 

Will start with the shields - the first area where I hope to add as many extra details as possible. - will post added images, and references as I move along.

 

Thanks for dropping by for an initial look - glad to be back posting again at MSW.

Edited Sunday at 09:25 PM by ccoyle
corrected log title

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I've pondered the "hump" in the Oseberg deck at the mast fish, and figured that the weight of the earth piled on top of the buried ship either created or accentuated this over time - since the mast fish has (forward of the mast step) a massive vertical member. to resist downward pressure in that location.  In the configuration after centuries of crushing, the amount of upward deck bulge would make rowing very difficult whether the rower was sitting on a bench OR a chest.  I've rowed on a replica Knarr, and its work enough sitting on a level thwart.  At the angle in the photos (duplicated on some models), the oar handle would hit the rower's knees if the oar were to be held in line with all the others.  Raising the angle would put too much oar in the water unless the oar length was significantly shortened.

  These are functional considerations - and the difference is the choice of modeling the ship as it is now (but made with new wood) OR modeling the Oseberg how it was when first built - with a flat or nearly flat deck ('compromise' bulge ?).   I did a query about the issue, and got the following answer:

 

  Yes, the Oseberg ship, including its central deck area (the keel and hull), suffered significant compression and warping, forming a bulge, primarily due to the immense weight of the burial mound pressing it into soft clay over centuries, though careful excavation and modern conservation have helped restore and stabilize it, notes the Viking Ship Museum. The wood absorbed moisture and lost its shape, requiring extensive treatment to prevent collapse, but the structure's core wood (oak) was remarkably resilient, says the Museum of Cultural History. 

How Burial Affected the Ship:

• Weight & Pressure: The large burial mound, constructed with turf and stone, acted like a heavy press, flattening the ship and pushing it deep into the clay, causing the deck and hull to distort.
• Waterlogging & Decay: Buried in wet clay, the wood became waterlogged, and over time, biological decay further weakened it.
• Compression & Bulging: As the wood lost its structural integrity, the pressure from the earth above caused the ship's timbers, especially the central hull/deck, to warp and create the characteristic bulge. 

  So will Nitkin note two ways of treating the deck amidships (as-built v/s as stabilized after excavation)?  Decades ago, U.S. Civil War re-enactors noted that original Confederate uniforms had yellowed thread used for sewing the pieces together.  Thus units many units insisted that repro C.S. uniforms be sewn with light yellow thread.  However, textile/fibre experts noted that old cotton 'yellows' with age - especially items that were worn - due to a variety of factors, and that the original thread was white in the 1860s (garment fabrics had also undergone color changes), prompting replacing uniforms by the mid 1980s to represent uniforms as they would have appeared when the War between the States was fought.

[md1400cs]

Very interesting comments on your part. I will look further into this as well - indeed your points are well taken. I will see if the Bischoff's book has any references to the mast step. Thanks for your post

 

PS: I have made a big mistake in my new Current Build signature - I have reached out to moderators - don't know how to fix or remove this mistake.

 

Regards,

[md1400cs]

OH - forgot to mention in this log’s first post Pavel’s step by step youtube build log videos are SO helpful!!

 

Continuing with the shields - 32 are included - the Lazer face etchings - and cut-out bits are all perfect. Lots of work went into producing such great out-of-the-box bits - Kudos to Pavel and his team.

 

15 shields will attach to outer hull per side, and only half of each back of shield will be visible once mounted (this will save me LOTS of extra detail work time that’s coming up)

 

Wanted to add colors to the faces. According to some historical information that I found - shield colors did have specific meanings;

 

Most Common Colors & Combinations:

 

• Red & Black: A very common, striking combination symbolizing courage and protection.
• Yellow & Black: Also popular, seen in the significant Gokstad burial.
• Red & White: Another frequent pairing, possibly representing purity alongside strength.
• Blue: Less common but found on high-status or royal shields, sometimes with white or red. 

Symbolism & Status:

 Red: Courage, strength, warrior valor.

• Black: Protection, defense.
• White: Purity, peace, divine favor.
• Blue: High status, nobility (associated with Odin). 

·       Evidence:
Archaeological finds, like the 64 shields from the Gokstad ship burial, show solid yellow and blue shields. Archaeological digs confirm the use of red, white, black, and blue, often in simple geometric patterns or solid fields.

 

 

 

 

[Baker]

Great start.

And welcome back 👍

[Tumblehome]

All looking good.

 

It's my experience that 'marker' pens provide an impressive quick result but aren't colour fast over time.

[md1400cs]

Shields moving forward - looked for some historical images - very few, and sketchy information at best. some FYI below...

 

Its known that shields were made from thin planks of wood (linden, pine, fir) butted together, sometimes with support braces on the back

 

PS: Re: P. Nitikin kits --- Probably the only advantage with the larger 1/25^th kit is in regards to the shields that have two bits - their faces and separate outer rims - that would have been a nice way of adding further detail, especially to the back rim of the shields.......

 

But since the 1/32^nd does not have a separate outer bands - needed to add some detail that would help the look of the outer  edges. Black marker was indeed helpful as well

 

Next up --- adding further details to the backside of each shield, including the mentioned cross braces. That should then let me move on to next area of work.

 

 

 

Thank for dropping by for a look - much appreciated - And welcome aboard members that are kindly following along with this new log.......Thanks!

 

MJD