removing ca glued rigging

[Lost and Confused]

Ahoy there mates. Im still puttering away at my 1:96 Revelle Cutty Sark. I have completed the foremast standing rigging, and added the fairleads to the shrouds and backstays. I just noticed that the port and starbord fairleads are not in line with each other. I installed them by filing a notch on one side and attaching to the shroud/backstay with a small drop of CA glue. Then surrounding with a piece of thread. If I used acetone on the joint, would it loosen it up enough that I could move the part up or down to achieve alignment? Is there a danger of damaging the shrouds or backstays? Ive done the shrouds and ratlines twice  already and really dont want to do them again. I ordered some 100% acetone. Need it anyway. Id appreciate any advice.

   Also I have tied on a few ratlines that could be better done. Tied with clove hitches, and the fore and aftmost ones ca glued.(Dont want that knot to untie}. Could I safely remove them with CA and not damage anything. If Im going to do this, now is the time as things only get hairier from here. Thanks mates

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   For ratlines, it may be better not to glue anything until all the ratlines on a given set of shrouds are done and adjusted (by nudging the clove hitches up or down.  Using a cow hitch on the first and last shroud will direct the line inward, so trimming won't leave unsightly bits sticking out beyond the end shrouds.

  For un-doing CA'd rigging, acetone can be somewhat harsh, and an alternative designed for the purpose exists as copied below:

 

  A CA glue debonder (cyanoacrylate debonder) is a specialized solvent that breaks down the molecular structure of super glue (CA glue) to remove it from skin, tools, and surfaces, allowing for correction of mistakes, freeing stuck fingers, and cleaning up dried glue without damaging most materials. It works by softening the adhesive, making it non-tacky and wipeable, and comes in formulas that are often skin-safe and effective on cured glue, with some brands offering brush applicators for precision. 

 

 EDIT:  A user test of 'Goof Off' debonder did not seem to work ... so until I can test it myself, the acetone will have to do ********

 

 

Edited Wednesday at 02:21 PM by Snug Harbor Johnny

[Lost and Confused]

Thanks Johnny, i can always rely on you for a helping hand I have acetone on the way. Will it hurt the shroud material? Using amati  rigging  cord.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

   Test it on a sample off the model to see.  Natural fibers should fare OK,  but I don't know about polyester thread ... never tried it.  Also, try it on a piece of plastic sprue form the kit.     Just a minute ...

 

  You got me going, so I went into the shop, glued some of my own scale rope made of poly thread over on itself and to a piece of wood with thick CA.  Then a dabbed a little accelerator on it for a quick cure.  I did get a bit of CA on a fingertip, and the acetone loosened it after about 45 seconds.

 

  Then I applied acetone with a fine brush to the glued line, and it loosened in about a minute.  Now there was a small blob of glue to work on, and it took another minute for the line to pull free of the wood it was glued to.  No harm was done to the line, nor was there any harm to the plastic sprue I tried it on repeatedly.  So you should be OK.  

 

    Bear in mind that acetone will remove any oil from the surface of your skin, and can be absorbed through the skin as well (as can a lot of things).  Breathing fumes isn't so good either.  The de-bonder might do the job quicker, so it may be good to try

[Lost and Confused]

Just got back from walmart with some goof off. Will keep you advised. Thanks again

 

[Keith Black]

 If you don't enjoy tying clove hitches like some folks I know there's the weaving method which I used and like a lot.

 

 

[Lost and Confused]

Appreciate the weaving suggestion. I may give it a try on my next build. Having the foremast shrouds done, its probably not a good idea to switch in the middle of a build. Same with going with cow hitches on the end shrouds {next time}  I got a can of goof off super glue remover and applied it as directed...repeatedly and could not get the fairleads to budge. Getting some pure acetone tomorrow...Hope it works...otherwise I may have to live with this defect.(Its killin me.You know how it is). Will try the cowhitch on end shrouds as well...Cant change in the middle of a build. When i come to the final shroud, I end so the free end is extending outward from the shroud. After CA ing it I get a nice clean, close cut. Thanks again mates

 

[wefalck]

Use fast-drying solvent-based varnish to secure knots etc. Not as messy as CA cement and can be softened any time with the appropriate solvent or acetone.

 

[paul ron]

nail polish remover.

[Lost and Confused]

SUCCESS.....My 100% acetone was delivered today. Was watching for the Amazon truck all day. Well I kept applying a small amount to the misaligned fairleads. Then attempting to get them loose, either up or down with tweezers. Finally One came loose. I moved it down to the correct position. Then the next one came loose. I noticed a touch of white residue on the backstays the bullseyes were attached to. easily touched them up. Noticede that the bullseyes had whitened considerably. carefully touched them up as well. I couldnt be happier with the results. Perhaps the "goof off" solvent would have worked as well, but I didnt work on the loosening with it as long. Thanks all of you for your input and assistance. Happy modeling

[Danny_CZ]

Small addition: Debonder is just mixture of acetone, which is not very effective, mainly used as chemical that adds volume, and nitromethane - the actual CA solvent/cleaner which is very effective and more expensive.

Source: mixed and sold "debonder" until nitromethane became too expensive and on top of that controlled substance in the EU.

Happy modelling.

Danny

[wefalck]

Keep in mind, that there are now two fundamentally different types of nail-varnish: the traditional, organic-solvent based one and the newer, acrylic emulsion-based ones. Both require different solvents.

 

[paul ron]

ah correct! i forgot there are a variety of nail polishes out there. the uv cured, the traditional laquer based and gels, and water based. the laquer n uv cure types are removed with acetone nail polish remover. the uv cured is tougher so they let it soak in the acetone till it gets soft enough to peel n flake off.

 

toxic smelling nail polish is the acetone based one for laquer types and will dissolve ca glues... $1.50 in the 99¢ stores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wefalck]

Actually, nail-polish smells aromatic not toxic - the son of organic chemist talking