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Posted

Hi,

 

I'm getting more into scratchbuilding, and modifying kits.

 

One thing I see in great builds here and elsewhere, is very precisely milled and finished woods - whether for planking, decking, or fittings.

 

I know there's a difference in quality, and likely therefore finish, between typical mainstream kit woods, and  top-end kits/scratch builders.  Boxwood, Alaskan Cedar, etc will generally look better than walnut veneers. limewood, etc.

 

But I see such polished and precise finishes, so keen to know if this is in the milling, and/or how it's finished.  Are others using scrapers and planes vs sandpaper, or milling with planes and drum sanders or thicknessers rather than accepting what's bought from suppliers?

 

Is it all in the wood, the milling, the finishing or the finish applied?  Or a learned combination?  Any insights appreciated!


Thanks,
Darren

 

                                            

Current Projects:

Setting up my workshop!

1/72 St Roch by Billings (modified/detailed)

1/24 Smoothbore Naval Cannon (Model Shipways)

1/72 RNLI Shannon Class Boat (Airfix - detailed)

 

Projects Awaiting Start:

1/72 Flower Class Corvette by Matchbox/Revell (detailed)

Various cross-section kits/scratch - Victory, Endeavour, Granado, Pandora, Beagle, Vanguard

1/24 Armed Longboat & English Pinnace (Model Shipways)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

  I sup[pose the 'best' way to finish wood is whatever way gets you the appearance you desire.  There are many to choose from.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100;  Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100;  Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

I agree with Johnny. There are multiple ways to finish, and it depends on the look you desire. For example, I use Testors Dulcote for my finish which gives a dull finish since I do 1700's ships, and I want them to look dull and weathered. If you were doing say a Chris Craft speed boat, you would want a shiny surface. As to milling, if you rip your own planks from purchased wood, I recommend you get a thickness planer/sander. I've purchased wood in the past and after having ripped planks, discovered that the boards varied a couple mm in thickness at different places. This made planking more of a challenge since the resultant planks varied in width. I do hand sand with fine grit once the planks are installed. I also use shape scrapers for detail. Finally, I use walnut for the hull which other people don't like. It varies considerably in color and shade unlike some other choices. This gives a patchwork appearance to the hull which brings out the planking detail including the use of trenails. I should mention that I only paint decorative components such as the figurehead and any carvings. Another "to each his own".

Rich

On the workbench: The bomb vessel Carcass 1758. Nelson sailed on her in 1773 as a midshipman during England's first Polar expedition.

Completed scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "L'Unite" 1797. Nelson briefly commanded in 1801.

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777. Nelson's first command

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted

I'm no expert by any stretch. The quality of the wood certainly makes a big differences - basswood (from Model Shipways / Midwest) kits does not produce the same finish as higher quality pear (from Vanguard kits). In terms of planking and decking, it's the quality of the wood work that seems to determine the quality of the final product - if you're painting, it doesn't much matter how much wood filler you use, but that won't cut it if you're planning to keep the wood unpainted. I've recently discovered making my own shellac from flakes and alcohol, which ends up with a much better product than using pre-made canned shellac. On a current model I used shellac on the bare wood at the top of the hull, with the bottom painted, and after it was all done and dried I applied a couple layers of a Vallejo matte varnish on top. I'm sure others have more sophisticated approaches and answers.

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