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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. Mark, Thanks for the info. I can rip .5 although I wish I had a Byrnes.
  2. I'm a bit confused which is not unusual for me. I have a micro table saw which works well for mm size ripping. With .5mm I have to go slow so as not to split or break the plank. My saw will not cut 1 inch thickness satisfactorally. Do you havea standard table saw in which case .5 mm I think would be really tough? With my micro saw I would cut to the larger thickness 4 or 5 mm and then do the .5 off of this. A better idea would be to buy 1/8 or 1/4 inch planks and rip them which would give you 3 1/2mm and 6mm planks roughly. If you want to be more exact plane them but with the naked eye I don't think anybody would notice. Rich
  3. One of the varieties of the linden tree is basswood so as Jan noted above you are probably looking for basswood which is really common and can be found at multiple on line sellers to model boat, plane or even railroad enthusiasts and in multiple thicknesses.
  4. I have used Testors Dulcoat. As the name implies it does not give a shiny surface. Some people don't use any coating but I do feel it helps maintain the blackenig.
  5. Looking good. The Badger is an interesting vessel both historically and physically. I like your choice of 1/48 as it lets you add detail. Good luck with your build and I look forward to following your bujild.
  6. I like your revision of the fife rail. Much more workable.
  7. To bad the bulkheads have been glued otherwise you could cut another frame by tracing the existing onto plywood or wood. I would use the scrap filler to fully correct the bowing. Your fairing will be more difficult but you can shim were needed. Is it a double plank model? If so you have two layers to play with which would help. If you are going to use treenails and correct spacing for plank butts a single plank model might be a problem as your butts would be asymmetric however with a double plank this would not be a problem as you are gluing to the first planking and not the bulkheads. I do two plank bulkhead construction but add false frames for my second planking and just glue to the first plank.
  8. Jamie, that is a puzzler. I don't see why or how you would fair bulkheads unless they were glued in place since they need to be faired in relationship to one another. Blocking you can either install before fairing or after fairing and the fair them in. I prefer putting the blocking in first and just fair once.
  9. Good move to correct something you are not happy with early rather than waiting. Issues only compound themselves if left unresolved.
  10. Using wood strips for flats and hollows works well. If you have a smaller irregularity you want to correct, use wood putty and then sand with a fine grit. You do want to have as much wood to wood contact for gluing when you lay down your second planking as possible so don't go to overboard with filler. For wood to wood gluing use wood glue pva. Only use ca when you are bonding metal to wood and be careful as it stains the wood and is tough to sand out.

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