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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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  • MSN

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. It is difficult to work with, requiring a lot of work to bend it, and it is toxic but it looks soooo good. I use it for wales. It also is good anchors, stoves and accent pieces such as window frames. If you need to bend it, work in stages, soaking, heat bending then soaking and heating again until you get the curve you need. I leave all wood natural color without painting so I am always looking to add in different types and colors of wood to give contrast.
  2. Do all your lines to a particular mast or yard. Wrap them around their appropriate belaying pins leaving a small tail in case you have to adjust. When all lines have been placed with good tension glue using pva to the pins. Add your rope coils and your done.
  3. Excellent and fascinating work all along in your restoration. Thanks for sharing.
  4. Tough to say without seeing it but I would consider a small amount of cyanoacrylate. It will be visible so only a tiny bit.
  5. Back to the original question. If you follow the rigging as shown in Lee's book or others you should not need to use a brass rod. I would recommend Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models" as the book is all simplified illustrations of different lines including lifts, truss pendants, jeers, slings and pendants along with braces. There is very little if any text and no discussion of different changes over time like Lee's book but the drawings are clear and simple. Rich
  6. If you are going to stain it, do it before you add a different wood unless you are going to stain that wood too with the same stain/color. I do not stain at all but leave the wood natural color. As to varnish, varnish will give you a shiny surface. depending on what you are building this may be good or bad. I use Testores Dullcoat which is a matte finish and does not shine. For what I build I feel the dull finish is more appropriate. Take a test try on scrap if in doubt. Rich
  7. Agree that the break was a blessing in disguise. It looks much better without the bulge.
  8. Great stuff. I find it very puzzling too why on the earlier repair the preventer was run under the pin rail. Snaking it under makes no sense from an accuracy point of view and would be harder to do? From the picture it looks like there was enough clearance to run it straight to the bowsprit.
  9. Have you ever tried fly tying thread? I fly fish and starting using it on my builds. It comes in very small sizes much thinner than sowing thread. I use 6/0 and 8/0 to serve or lash lines. It comes in many colors including black and tan.
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