Jump to content

barkeater

Members
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    barkeater@msn.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

Recent Profile Visitors

691 profile views
  1. If you are worried about sheen try Testors Dullcote on a piece of scrap wood. I find it does not give an appreciable sheen and can be used to dull down a sheen from a poly undercoat.
  2. Getting back to your question on which edge to taper, I always taper that edge which will abut the existing plank. This way you know right away if the plank you tapered was done correctly and has a good angle to fit in smoothly with the existing plank and you always keep the opposite edge straight and true to lay your next plank against. Also concerning the placement of bands. Here, I am bit of a nonconformist. In the first planking I measure in millimeters the entire length of the run up the bulkheads where I need to plank instead of breaking this up into multiple bands. Then I divide this by the width of the planks I'm using. This lets me know how many runs of planking I need to do at each bulkhead and how much taper I need at each bulkhead over the entire hull. I can then start to do slight tapers before I need them rather than possiblly more severe taper at some areas which I would need to do using bands. As an example I can start to do a 1mm. taper on a plank before I need it rather than a more severe 2 or 3 mm taper if I wait. I do a few runs of planks and then remeasure all the bulkheads and readjust. This way I can do a hull without dropping a plank or adding a plank. I plank to scale on my second planking which for me at 1/48 is 5 inches in length. I draw on false bulkheads in between my existing bulkheads on the second planking which allows me to follow rules on plank lengths and number of planks between butts.
  3. My two cents. First you say that the planks are laying flat on the bulkhead but in the pictures it really looks like they are laying flat on only one edge not across their breadth which would go along with your pictures. If they were laying flat across their entire breadth you would not get the step appearance which is seen in your pictures. Planks being of equal thickness, there would be no step. Your mistake in this case appears to be, as has been said, that you did not let the planks assume their natural curve. At the bow, the planks will progressively overlap one another so you have to taper them going forward or drop a plank. It looks like you did not taper but rather fit the plank in at the bow and then tried to bend the plank to match up to the other bulkheads. I would take them off and redo them. If you don't correct mistakes early in planking especially with a double planked hull it will only increase your problems later. I would look at the planking tutorial in the forum for more clarification. It is tough to asses the beveling or fairing of the bulkheads in your pictures given the problem with the run of the planks. If you do still have a problem with beveling, which I don't think you do, after you fix the tapering problem this would be easy to fix. You just glue on a strip or two of scrap planking along the edge of the bulkhead where you have taken off to much wood and bevel or fair it again.
  4. barkeater

    barkeater

  5. For small piece work that you do with ship modelling I go with a scroll saw.
  6. If I read this right, one could possibly be for the bumpkin shrouds and the other for the mainstay collar. A picture would help.
  7. I use wire for eye bolts, ring bolts and hooks. I use sterling silver half hard wire as I like the strength. I solder rather than twist for the eye bolts. My eye bolts are 26 guage and I go up in size for the ring in ring bolts. The silver can also be hammered to make other fixtures such as door handles. I work in 1/48 scale. All my lines standing and running are thread.
  8. Nice looking shot. As far as I know these odd shot types were stored below decks in the shot locker. They would have been used by larger vessels at least frigate size and brought up on deck when needed. I hate to bring it up but I seriously doubt that chain or bar shot was used in the battle of Valcour Island.
  9. Welcome aboard. I grew up in Gloversville making model airplanes.
  10. If you are going to spend the time doing a scratch build might I recommend perusing the National Maritime Museums ships plans on their web site. They have lots of original plans on a variety of vessels which you can purchase. Even if you don't find something that catches your eye, it's just fun to look.
  11. Stay away from CA. Always use the PVA except when gluing metal to wood. It seeps into the wood and makes a stain very hard to sand out. Use PVA {wood glue}. If you have gaps mix PVA with some sawdust of the wood you are planking with and use as a wood putty. If you just want to add strength just wipe on PVA with your finger tip, clean off any excess and sand.
  12. If your like me and need there to be canons on board might I suggest something like HMS Sherbourne cutter by Caldercraft. It's 1/64 scale and the are plenty of build logs on it. In addition to the excuses above, you can tell your wife that you wanted to start with a small ship before you did a larger. We modelers are good at excuses. You will be building for months if not more so you want to build something you like.
  13. I would pull them. If you ran a single continuous plank the entire run of the hull then you can just cut out the bad section. If it is a double planked model and this is the first planking you might be able to get away with gluing and sanding but you have to ask yourself, why did they snap and are more going to snap? Did you fare your bulkheads so that the planks meet the bulkheads over their entire ends? If not this could be your culprit. Also did you add some scrap wood at the bow to help attachment to the keel? What kind of plank bender did you use? I use an electric steam bender and if I'm going to snap one, it happens when I'm bending and not overnight. I would strongly recommend steam bending if you are not doing it. There are some "plank benders" out there that don't do the job. Having said this, welcome to the wonderful world of ship building. We all have problems and we all learn from solving them.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
×
×
  • Create New...