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barkeater

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About barkeater

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. Also try Modelers Central in Australia. They ship worldwide and cost is not bad. The lengths are 39 inches and quality is good.
  2. I'm not a fan of pin pushers or nailing unless it is the first planking of a double planked model. I clamp instead. Sometimes you have to get inventive depending on what you are doing. It helps to have a variety of clamps. You can clamp a piece of scrap wood to apply pressure. I also use have used multiple clamps with scrap wood or the butt ends of microfiles to jerry-rig clamping when a single clamp does not work. Nails can split the wood especially if you have to use a lot of torque to get the piece to lie flat. You also are left with a hole to deal with. If you treenail you can fill but you have to only nail where your treenail pattern would be (for me 2 holes at the butt and 1 hole about every four feet to scale). Alternatively you can use wood glue. Let it sit until it starts to thicken then place on your plank and use your fingers to clamp. Usually a count to 100 will do the trick. For tough angles such as the front or rear quarter of the hull where it is angling in you may have to hold for a count of 300 but the glue will take. I do not use ca as it stains and I do not paint my hulls.
  3. I double plank. Besides allowing you to even out any imperfections it also gives you more strength to the hull. While this may not be as important on a schooner, with models having bulwarks above the deck cannon ports, hawser holes or any other perforation in the hull it is a big benefit.
  4. I do one thing at a time. I scratch build and have to fabricate as I go along which means that some pieces have to wait until others are done in order to get the dimensions right. As an example, my current build is a two decker and I can't build the capstan until I have the exact height of the main/gun deck set. There are some things I could do such as carriages but one thing at a time works for me and helps to keep my clutter down.
  5. For the metal sheave, you can also use a round metal punch to cut out 2 pieces of brass or other metal plate. Then punch a hole in the center, blacken and place in your block. Not as elegant but it works if you don't have the power tools.
  6. If you are looking for plans to complete it, you could try looking through the National Maritime Collection Greenwich England site. You probably won't find the exact plans but you may find plans close enough to go on.
  7. In the United States there are quite a few places you can get 20-24 inch pieces in 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 thickness. The 1/8 is what I use for planking as it is between 3 and 4 mm. which fits my scale. The thicker pieces I use for things like cap rails. It depends on your scale. Larger pieces can also be ripped down to what you need. There are also a some places that sell wood strips in various thicknesses and widths although the variety of wood types is not as great as buying wood pieces and ripping them. As far as how much to have on hand, the ready availability allows one to just order what you need allowing for waste rather than stockpiling. Ships take months or years to complete so there is plenty of time to order new wood.
  8. I just can't bring myself to paint over the thousands of treenails I made, drilled and installed. I try to paint as little as possible. I like the look of wood and use different species of wood to try to get close to what I think the paint schemes were and to highlight the different areas (eg. wales). Current build so far has walnut, bubinga, ebony, rose wood, yellow heart, red heart, cherry and beech. But this is just me and to each his own. It is whatever makes you happy.
  9. I have and it works however I feel that soaking and then bending works better. If you do it be careful to not come in contact with the steam. I did a piece of Bolivian Rosewood and let the steam hit my face. The next morning I woke up with what looked like poison ivy on my face.
  10. You could also try duck decoy carvers as this is what is commonly used.
  11. A case will cost you several hundred dollars. You can use an air puffer to blow dust off and keep it looking fairly respectable. Is a case worth it? That is up to the individual and I would think that most people would only case models which they have built.
  12. In the case of the Badger, there was a small slightly raised quarterdeck and the wheel was located on the quarterdeck. A man at the wheel could look forward but the masts, lines, and in the Badger's case, the cook shack would obscure some of the view. He could however look over the bulwarks. The kits I've seen do not indicate a raised quarterdeck. I noticed this discrepancy when I was building the Badger using Howard Chapelle's plans at the Smithsonian.

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