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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. I do one thing at a time. I scratch build and have to fabricate as I go along which means that some pieces have to wait until others are done in order to get the dimensions right. As an example, my current build is a two decker and I can't build the capstan until I have the exact height of the main/gun deck set. There are some things I could do such as carriages but one thing at a time works for me and helps to keep my clutter down.
  2. For the metal sheave, you can also use a round metal punch to cut out 2 pieces of brass or other metal plate. Then punch a hole in the center, blacken and place in your block. Not as elegant but it works if you don't have the power tools.
  3. If you are looking for plans to complete it, you could try looking through the National Maritime Collection Greenwich England site. You probably won't find the exact plans but you may find plans close enough to go on.
  4. In the United States there are quite a few places you can get 20-24 inch pieces in 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 thickness. The 1/8 is what I use for planking as it is between 3 and 4 mm. which fits my scale. The thicker pieces I use for things like cap rails. It depends on your scale. Larger pieces can also be ripped down to what you need. There are also a some places that sell wood strips in various thicknesses and widths although the variety of wood types is not as great as buying wood pieces and ripping them. As far as how much to have on hand, the ready availability allows one to just order what you need allowing for waste rather than stockpiling. Ships take months or years to complete so there is plenty of time to order new wood.
  5. I just can't bring myself to paint over the thousands of treenails I made, drilled and installed. I try to paint as little as possible. I like the look of wood and use different species of wood to try to get close to what I think the paint schemes were and to highlight the different areas (eg. wales). Current build so far has walnut, bubinga, ebony, rose wood, yellow heart, red heart, cherry and beech. But this is just me and to each his own. It is whatever makes you happy.
  6. I have and it works however I feel that soaking and then bending works better. If you do it be careful to not come in contact with the steam. I did a piece of Bolivian Rosewood and let the steam hit my face. The next morning I woke up with what looked like poison ivy on my face.
  7. You could also try duck decoy carvers as this is what is commonly used.
  8. A case will cost you several hundred dollars. You can use an air puffer to blow dust off and keep it looking fairly respectable. Is a case worth it? That is up to the individual and I would think that most people would only case models which they have built.
  9. In the case of the Badger, there was a small slightly raised quarterdeck and the wheel was located on the quarterdeck. A man at the wheel could look forward but the masts, lines, and in the Badger's case, the cook shack would obscure some of the view. He could however look over the bulwarks. The kits I've seen do not indicate a raised quarterdeck. I noticed this discrepancy when I was building the Badger using Howard Chapelle's plans at the Smithsonian.
  10. Added little details such as an anchor buoy can add to the overall appearance of a ships model. Being an avid fly fisherman I came up with this solution. I used a strike indicator (bobber) which is used in nymphing. They have a slot down the middle which you can use to form your two loops then double back to the far end and wind your line around the buoy towards you. I found it easiest to stop half way and cover with watered down white glue. Hold it in place either with fingers or a clamp if you have one that will work. Let it dry then finish the other half and tuck the free tag into the slot after applying the glue mixture. Let it dry again then attach your coiled line. Strike indicators come in 3 sizes so you can choose one to fit your scale.

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