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barkeater

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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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    barkeater@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. Really like the stove. I assume you are going to leave the door to the cook shack open.
  2. It would not work in your 1/96 scale but in 1/48 scale which I do, I use round toothpicks which I cut and shape to size. Pretty easy to do and they look good.
  3. To hold your line tight until the glue dries just leave some extra and use a clip as a weight and dangle it over the outboard side. Also if you are adding multiple lines to say a yard you can keep the tension on all your lines using this method until you have them all adjusted to you liking and the glue all at the same time. Rich
  4. I have not had a problem with drooping lines. I don't glue pins. I cinch the lines around the pins a couple times as you would securing a regular size vessel then glue with thinned white glue. I then coil a separate line, place over the pin and glue again with thinned carpenters glue.
  5. I have used ebony for wales. Very hard to bend requiring multiple soak and heat cycles. I have a few pieces left saved for future builds and accents such as anchors. The only pieces I have seen in the last few years are single rough boards at extreme prices. There are a lot of really nice types of wood you can use instead.
  6. I have used Modelers Central several times and have been happy with their service. Shipping time is surprisingly good considering I'm half a world away. I like that their wood strips are longer than anybody else I have used.
  7. It's pretty easy to make your own and with the number of hooks needed for a build it is aslo more economical. I use silver wire for added strength as compared to craft wire and solder the eye.
  8. Sorry, I have no great suggestions on keel tapering other than sanding. On tarred joints I lightly run a black indelible marker along edges. You may want to try that on scrap. It is quick and I like the look. You do not have to cover the surfaces completelly if you do both of the two adjacent planks.
  9. Try some of the sponsors such as Model Expo. Also Historic Ships although check their shipping costs and Modelers Central which is in Australia but they ship worldwide and have good quality material and good service. This should get you started.
  10. Mark, Thanks for the info. I can rip .5 although I wish I had a Byrnes.
  11. I'm a bit confused which is not unusual for me. I have a micro table saw which works well for mm size ripping. With .5mm I have to go slow so as not to split or break the plank. My saw will not cut 1 inch thickness satisfactorally. Do you havea standard table saw in which case .5 mm I think would be really tough? With my micro saw I would cut to the larger thickness 4 or 5 mm and then do the .5 off of this. A better idea would be to buy 1/8 or 1/4 inch planks and rip them which would give you 3 1/2mm and 6mm planks roughly. If you want to be more exact plane them but with the naked eye I don't
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