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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. I have and it works however I feel that soaking and then bending works better. If you do it be careful to not come in contact with the steam. I did a piece of Bolivian Rosewood and let the steam hit my face. The next morning I woke up with what looked like poison ivy on my face.
  2. You could also try duck decoy carvers as this is what is commonly used.
  3. A case will cost you several hundred dollars. You can use an air puffer to blow dust off and keep it looking fairly respectable. Is a case worth it? That is up to the individual and I would think that most people would only case models which they have built.
  4. In the case of the Badger, there was a small slightly raised quarterdeck and the wheel was located on the quarterdeck. A man at the wheel could look forward but the masts, lines, and in the Badger's case, the cook shack would obscure some of the view. He could however look over the bulwarks. The kits I've seen do not indicate a raised quarterdeck. I noticed this discrepancy when I was building the Badger using Howard Chapelle's plans at the Smithsonian.
  5. Added little details such as an anchor buoy can add to the overall appearance of a ships model. Being an avid fly fisherman I came up with this solution. I used a strike indicator (bobber) which is used in nymphing. They have a slot down the middle which you can use to form your two loops then double back to the far end and wind your line around the buoy towards you. I found it easiest to stop half way and cover with watered down white glue. Hold it in place either with fingers or a clamp if you have one that will work. Let it dry then finish the other half and tuck the free tag into the slot after applying the glue mixture. Let it dry again then attach your coiled line. Strike indicators come in 3 sizes so you can choose one to fit your scale.
  6. If I remember correctly, the naval battle itself was watched by a crowd on shore along the nearby cliffs. Jones had been raiding isolated seaports along the coast of England and Scotland much to the consternation of the British Government and terrifying the local populations. It may not have sunk in shallow waters the battle was close to land.
  7. "Rigging Period Ship Models" by Lennarth Peterson shows deck belaying plans. There were standards to follow like most things in the navy at that time which could be modified to fit the needs and peculiarities of individual vessels (example- bomb ketch).
  8. On mini files, The hobby shops near me sell two types, a fine tooth and a coarser or larger tooth. The finer will take off wood slowly and give it a smoother surface. The larger toothed is when you want to take off a lot of wood. Be careful with these larger tooth files. Go lightly until you get used to them and the particular type of wood you are using them on. They can take off wood quick and also can splinter an edge or pull off small pieces along the edge. I have: round, flat, semi round and flat, triangular and square and I use them all. I don' bother with a handle as I feel I can get better control of the file by holding it in my fingers. I use fine tooth a lot more than the coarse. Those are fine tooth in my picture above.
  9. Not an expert but I vote shroud. I don't remember ever having seen it whipped to the lanyard.
  10. Absolute necessary tools: Small saw and mitre box, scalpel or hobby knife, flexible ruler with metric and inches, micro files of various shapes, different clamps including the ones attached to your hands, sand paper and not for you but for me 5x magnification glasses. You can build any kit with just these tools. My advise is not to go overboard. Just get the minimum and add when you see something that you really need. Otherwise you wind up with a drawer of tools that just gather dust.

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