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    Boise, Idaho

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  1. I've been sucked back into the plastic realm due to watching some of incredible plastic models being built on here recently (still need to finish my Syren/Triton/Nina, but that's beside the point ). I was in the hobby store the other day debating what type of primer to apply to my 1/350 Fletcher. I've stayed away from Vallejo due to the experiences that Greg has relayed in his log; the guy in the hobby store (who actually seemed extremely knowledgeable) said that he loved Mr. Surfacer, and used it for all of his work. Other's might chime in if they've used this product. For brass parts.. I picked up a package of 2 small brass rods at Lowe's (in nuts and bolts section) for around 8 bucks, and copied Greg's method of inserting them into wood blocks in the hull. It was extremely easy! (I used a 2-part epoxy to secure the wood blanks into the hull). Alan
  2. Nice flight decks! I hadn't realized how long this was. You might need a new bookshelf!
  3. Greg, are you going to incorporate any lighting? That could help show off some of the internals.... Alan
  4. Another stunning model. I think it's now time for a carrier... They cost a "trifle" more, but think of the enjoyment the rest of us will have watching you work on her. 😀 Alan
  5. RE the black paper caulking. He probably glued black paper strips on the edges of his planks. (Just one edge, as the "other" side of the plank receives it's caulking from its neighbor plank). I think the easiest and safest way to caulk is by coloring the edges with a graphite pencil. Alan
  6. Thanks HOF. I might do just that when the last coat of tung has dried. The side with 50/50 tung/mineral spirits turned out very well. I was also able to sand out the "splotchiness" of the starboard rail, and reapply 50/50 tung/mineral, and it came out a lot better. I'm going to repeat that process again, before using 100% tung. I think I can end up with a nice finish on this, in the end. Am currently bending the last "ribs" on the ships boat. Once dried and sanded, I'll take photos. I'll be glad to be finished with that part. Glenns.. I've sure thought about it (still am :)) , but I really want to finish this one and get back to my Syren… Alan
  7. Roughly where my Nina stands. Am currently working on the ship's boat. Alan
  8. Still fiddling with the finish on the main model. This morning I applied a 50/50 mixture of tung/mineral spirits to the "virgin" sections. We'll see how it goes. I also began cutting out my pre-soaked/bent "side ribs" to place next to the "ribs" on the bottom of the boat. Once the ribs have been installed, I'll cut the tops off of them on each side, as another plank will be running along the top of the inside of the boat under the rail. I'll also sand all of the ribs smooth and uniform. However... This morning when I began dry placing a few side ribs in the boat, I realized that all the ribs were far, far too wide! There's a part of me which wants to go ahead and install the rest of them, but the part that will win out is the part which knows that overly wide ribs will drive me nuts. Now the question is how to thin them. The bottom ribs have already been glued. It actually might be easiest to install them all, and sand them in place as opposed to trying to sand the remainder before installing.. They are so small, they are pretty hard to handle. Alan
  9. Bob, I'd heard that as well. I'm using Formby's. I'm not at home right now, but I'm pretty sure it isn't real tung oil. I have to admit I'd wondered if my model would spontaneously combust or not. Alan
  10. Fantastic replies! I have a lot of thinking to do. And it may in fact be more logical/quicker for me to draw everything out by hand. Phil, those are great examples. The curved planking is exactly what I'm wishing to draw, with hook scarfs where needed. Alan
  11. Thanks! One thing I've noticed about working on this one is that no real "mess" is created during construction which sure isn't the case with our larger models. They are very good wintertime desk projects. Alan
  12. Hi Jim, kind of... Hook Scarfs.. Phil, you hit the nail on the head regarding the time spent learning a new program taking time away from actual work on the model. My goal is definitely to print 2D plans. I'll also definitely need the ability to draw in exact scale.. Alan
  13. Excellent feedback. Thank you! I'll fiddle with what I've already done, then thin the oil with mineral spirits, and proceed according to the above instruction. Mark, no danger of glue spots on this one. I'd sanded the rails down with progressively finer grits until the last phase, which was done with a grit almost as fine as paper. I do wonder if the surface was "too" smooth, not allowing the oil to penetrate properly... Alan

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