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knightyo

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About knightyo

  • Birthday 10/05/1970

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  • Location
    Boise, Idaho

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  1. Oh no.... That figures.. Maybe I'll also end up being a candidate for a Byrnes saw. Maybe we can all get a group discount. lol Alan
  2. I've ordered pear for my Syren (below) from The Lumberyard (based in Ohio). It's supposed to arrive sometime this week. I've also been tempted to purchase a Byrnes, but six bucks for the material I need is fantastic, assuming the quality is good. Item:1 - Qty:4, Pear Wood - 2` x 24` (1/16), Price:$6.00 Alan
  3. Great photo! I was thinking you must have a massive telephoto lens, but it looks like you captured this at 150mm? Was this a fly-by visitor to a boat that you were traveling upon? Alan
  4. How about a model which wasn't designed for guns in the first place? Below is a photo from one of Chuck's threads regarding a Boyer. These are beautiful vessels! Alan
  5. Thanks guys! In addition to the lack of light, I can't even imagine how hard life would have been in general, especially on a ship at sea. I think I'd last a couple of weeks, tops. lol Alan
  6. Even though the model is currently a dusty mess, I'm absolutely ecstatic about this photo because it's showing the faint flickering light under the main deck grating which I just received from Evan Designs. The photo does also show the progress I've made so far in removing all of the wood from the cabin area. Now I just need to make the planking run uniformly from fore/aft, and build up the quarterdeck structure. This was a nice lunch break today. (I've copied/pasted what was ordered below. I have zero electronics experience, and for 11.19 USD, I was able to emulate a flickeri
  7. I've used Ebony for wales in the past. Never again. The dust was unbelievable, and apparently very unhealthy. Alan
  8. Yes! I'd always felt like I was taking the easy way out with this model, and realized that if I didn't take this step, it would bug me forever. The only concern I have is whether or not the new decking I've ordered (tanganika) will be a different hue than the tanganika used many years ago. Hopefully not, but we'll see.
  9. This is Glenns fault. 😄 I think what tipped the scale was the fact that I'd already drilled into the quarterdeck under the grating so it would look more realistic as the viewer looked down through the quarterdeck grating. I then realized that it would look really cool to see the square patterns of light on the floor underneath the deck in the steering area if the entire section was developed. I've ordered additional decking material and will now try to extend the deck back into the steering area after leveling off the flooring. Of course this area will now need to have a dim fli
  10. I've been thinking that all MSW members should have similar representations of themselves on the decks of their builds, at the scale of their builds. How cool would that be? If someone had the ability to 3d print such figures, I'd purchase one of myself. lol Chuck, your build looks flawless as usual; it's really fun to see these updates. Alan
  11. I remember working at a company in which a guy missed out on promotion after promotion. He was kind of a jerk, and everyone knew that he was missing out because he had an "_ _ _ hole" stamp in his personnel file. I think poor customers should also be eligible for such stamps and refused service. Bad customers aren't worth the hassle. Alan
  12. Ok, I'm declaring the ship's boat as complete. I'll glue that to the hull after the stairs and rudder have been installed, since it's a fragile little thing. Alan
  13. Thanks Mike! I'm actually relieved to be done with that one. Now the Nina can be finished, and then Syren, Triton, etc.. 😄
  14. Just a small addition to my Ship in a Bottle project. Once I had everything done, ship back in bottle, vid created, etc etc... I realized that I hadn't weathered the deck. Sigh.......
  15. I hear that. I'm in the same spot with my 1:64 Triton. I was going to bite the bullet however, and fully plank the gundeck in order to practice. I've never installed tapered planks on a deck, so even though most of the work won't be visible, it's still worth the practice time to me. Where I stalled however, was trying to determine how to actually lay that kind of pattern down on my false deck. Running straight from end to end is simple, but how to find/make a suitable tapering pattern? Alan
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