Lowell Grand Banks Dory by MikJ - Model Shipways - 1:24 - First Build

[MikJ]

Hi, this is my first ever build log for my first ever build.
I'm starting with what seems to be a beginner's classic. There are already many build logs for the dory, so at first I thought that it doesn't make sense to open another one. But even after reading through many of them, I realized that each new one is bringing new insights and tips and solutions to various problems, from the author and from the community. So I plan to describe at least the main steps of the build and probably ask for some advice from time to time. Any comments and suggestions are welcome.

 

This kit is actually from Dusek Ship Kits (I'm in Europe), under a license from Model Shipways. Please tell if the topic name should be updated somehow. The main differences from the US version seem to be that the material is birch plywood instead of basswood, and the list of the kit contents gives the dimensions in mm.

 

So far I spent most of the time reading the instructions, trying to visualise how parts come together, and getting a feeling on the basic things like cutting the pieces from the wood sheets, sanding them and test-gluing some of the leftover scrap pieces.

 

One thing I'm not entirely sure about is how the beveling of the planks has to be done. After checking many forum pictures and also real-world boat pictures, I understand it like in the following drawings.
The first one is a cross-section through a frame, with the planks not to scale (and before sanding the garboard flush with the bottom). There will be some gaps between the frame and the planks, but probably very small at the scale of the model, so maybe even filled by the glue.
The second one would be a view along the stem, where the bevel increases, so that the planks fully overlap and the outer surface of the hull should be smooth.

Feel free to reply if you think that this is not correct.

                                                              

[ccoyle]

2 minutes ago, MikJ said:

This kit is actually from Dusek Ship Kits (I'm in Europe), under a license from Model Shipways.

 

Since it is manufactured under license, the name of the original manufacturer is appropriate.

 

I have also tagged your log as a "first build" -- this just alerts members to modelers who can use that extra little bit of help and encouragement.

[JacquesCousteau]

Looking forward to following along! I'm curious to see how the birch plywood is. Your understanding of the beveled planks is correct.

[robert952]

Make room. I am jumping on board the log.  

 

Good luck on your build and do not be afraid to ask questions.  

 

And, yes, adding to the build logs, even it there's a bunch out there, on the same ship/boat, you will bring a fresh perspective as you proceed. 

[MikJ]

Soo, it begins.

 

@robert952 there is room for everybody. Make sure you have a comfortable chair, it's probably going to take some time. I'm moving slowly, doing a lot of dry fitting and planning the next moves, which I see I actually enjoy.

 

I started by gluing together two of the bottom parts. Didn't want to put all three together at once, to avoid trying to align too many pieces and wipe two glue joints at the same time. I saw many people mention creative clamping, I think I'm on to something. The auxiliary wooden clamping blocks are covered in plastic wrap.

 

 

It is with some anxiety that I applied the glue, knowing it's a point of no return. It's with excitement that I removed the clamps to see the result.
One small issue: the two pieces are not perfectly aligned vertically everywhere. The shadow in the picture makes it look much bigger, it's actually very small. Maybe it's because the entire wood sheet seems to be very slightly curved, maybe it's the way I applied the clamps.

 

 

After reading about the technique on the forum, I tried to scrape the surface of the glued pieces with a blade, to bring them to the same level. It works nicely and also removes the remaining shiny glue stains, but I also created some tiny dents or cuts when pressing the blade on the surface. I need to practice this separately and try again after gluing the 3rd bottom piece.

Which came next. This time I adjusted the clamping to press more along the glued line. I hoped it would keep the parts more level, I'm not sure it made a difference.

 

 

The PVA glue I have starts to harden pretty fast, or it took me a long time to wet all along these (long) edges. I started by wiping the excess glue with a wet brush, but this required a lot of water and I was afraid it would dilute the PVA in the joint. I wanted to use something with which I can press harder on the surface to be cleaned. Cotton swabs work but leave behind some fibers. In the end a damp cloth was just perfect for the large, flat surface, cleaning almost all glue residues. I expect that this will not work on the smaller glue joints.

 

As somebody else around here called it, it's now at the surfboard stage  

 

 

Edited 6 hours ago by MikJ

[druxey]

With PVA glue, there is no 'point of no return'. If you use isopropanol (95% rubbing alcohol) you can unglue joints and correct anything you are not happy with. Water will take much longer to loosen a PVA joint, so removing any excess glue with a damp or wet brush before it sets should not disturb the joint.

[MikJ]

58 minutes ago, druxey said:

With PVA glue, there is no 'point of no return'. If you use isopropanol (95% rubbing alcohol) you can unglue joints and correct anything you are not happy with. Water will take much longer to loosen a PVA joint, so removing any excess glue with a damp or wet brush before it sets should not disturb the joint.

 

Thank you for reminding me! I read about this and wanted to test it, but forgot about doing the experiment.

By the way, can you re-apply PVA directly to the unglued surfaces, or do they need some treatment first?

 

It's also true that the brushes I have at hand are soft, I have to look for some stiffer ones.

Edited 4 hours ago by MikJ