18th century English Longboat by Chuck - FINISHED - c.1760

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, I would like to treenail the hull and paint below the waterline. After the Wipe-On-Poly Should I apply primer before applying the Badger acrylic water base Antique White? Do you think the treenails would be visible under the paint? Mike

Edited February 21, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Senior ole salt]

Wow, Never thought the long boat could be so decorative. Any King or "nobleman" would be glad to be rowed around in one.

 

Great build Chuck.

 

Thanks for showing  and taking the time to post such thought out and clear images. ( a skill in itself)

 

S.os

[Chuck]

Thanks

 

I doubt the treenails would be seen under the paint.   But either wau it couldnt help to seal the wood first before painting.  The Wipe on Poly should be fine.  No primer is needed.   

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Hello Chuck, Are the sheave holes for the ball truck the same 69 or 70 drill you recommended for the mast?

[Chuck]

Nope...much smaller.  Only large enough for the .008 line to pass through.   I use a #77 or # 78 drill.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Hello Chuck,

 

Can the bulkheads be slightly recessed where they meet the cap rail or are they supposed to be flush with the cap rail edge? Thanks, Mike

[Chuck]

I am not sure what you mean...lowered as far as recessed.   Yes you can do that.   You can create basically any shear you want within reason.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

If the cap rail width is 3/32" can the depth of the bulkhead at its upper most point be slightly under 3/32" or should its edge line up with the edge of the cap rail?. Hope this makes more sense.

[Chuck]

Yes it should be...This way the caprail overlaps slightly on the outboard side only.  The inboard  side is flush.  But that means you must go much thinner than 3/32" wide.  The bulkheads should be sanded down to about 1/16" wide at the caprail or even less.   The model will be surprisingly strong.   Shoot for 3/64" wide along the top of the bulkheads.

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks! That explains it perfectly.

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, how long are the handles for the windlass? Thanks, Mike

[Chuck]

1 3/8" I believe but I will have to double check.   I dont have my model here and I know I forgot to add that to the plans.....between 5 and 6 feet is OK.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, Regarding the oarlocks. The instructions say to use 26 gauge wire . The kit comes with 22,24 and 28. Which gauge should I use? Thanks, Mike

Edited June 3, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

24 gauge

[Stuntflyer]

Hi Chuck, I purchased a few books on rigging to help me out when needed. I couldn't find anything on securing the blocks to the iron bands on the mast. Do you have an illustration showing the path that the rope would take. Thanks, Mike

[Chuck]

Yes its on the plans and you could certainly have a look at those hi-res photos I posted.  They show it very clearly on the contemporary models.  Almost all of the blocks had hooks seized to them and they were placed in the holes of the iron bands.   This made it possible to un rig the boat quickly and store that stuff.  For the kit,  I only showed this a few times because it some tiny stuff.   To simplify it I simply tied the blocks to the iron bands.  But a more historically accurate method is to use hooks.

 

Check out these photos...

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1856-large-close-up-images-of-longboat-rigging-on-contemporary-models/

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, thanks for the info and the link!

[Stuntflyer]

I tried seizing the blocks to the mast bands but for some reason the tan line keeps breaking at the band side with only a few light pulls, even though I 320 sanded the metal smooth. Could be a sharp edge or weak thread, not sure. Looks like I will have to go with hooks. Any suggestions regarding the shape and size? Thanks, Mike

[Chuck]

28 gauge wire and the same shape as shown in the images.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, do you normally ca the seizing between a block and the "horse", for example? When I do, it turns the tan line dark brown and it just looks too dark. Thanks, Mike

Edited June 24, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

That will happen.   Better to just use diluted white glue.    It dries clear.  It wont darken the line at all.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Thanks! As always very helpful.

[Stuntflyer]

Chuck, Sorry for so many questions. Being my first build I really want to do things right. Should I seize the block/horse and Mast block/hook the same way? Is there a link showing the way that you would do the seizing? Thanks, Mike

Edited June 25, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

Yes I would....I dont have a photo of that but dont worry too much about it.   Being your first model just examine the contemporary model as they are best pictures I have.

[Stuntflyer]

Will do, Thanks

[Stuntflyer]

Hello Chuck,

 

Does the 1/32" sq molding on the side of the hull have a tiny notch filed into it where the chain plate crosses the molding?

 

Thanks, Mike

[Chuck]

Nope...it just rests against it.  The only thing securing the chain is the small nail.   Other than that it doesnt sit against the hull at all .   It rests against the molding of the cap rail though so there will be a tiny space behind it that is not detectable.

 

Chuck

[Stuntflyer]

Rigging the Shrouds. . .

 

The instructions say, "Seize the shroud around the masthead with .021 black wire". I guess that's 24 gauge black wire which seems rather heavy for this? If used, how many wraps would you suggest?

 

Thanks, Mike

Edited August 2, 2014 by Stuntflyer

[Chuck]

Not wire....its Rope...........that was a typo which was never corrected.

[Stuntflyer]

So I should use .021 black rope to Seize the shrouds around the masthead? Also, it seems like the kit supplied tan rope is too thin for shrouds.

Edited August 5, 2014 by Stuntflyer