Chuck

You cant bend a strip into that curve. Yes that sheet is there for you to cut the bow cap. Make a card template first....as mentioned in the instructions. Chuck

Nicely done. Good to see it progressing.

Nicely done.

Soon…I have a few other things ahead of making another batch. chuck

When chapter 5 comes out. All of you guys building the model will get a complimentary figure to show scale. I will randomly select one of these and include it in your order for that chapter.

They are available!!!

Lovely work.

Another new item will soon be in stock. I had run out of my old swivel guns. Those were cast in the traditional way and not 3D printed. They has casting marks etc. So now that I ran out of them I figured I would do a redesign. Here are photos of the new 3D printed swivel guns. Two pieces. The yoke is flexible-ish. This enables some manipulation to just slide the yoke into position from the bottom of the barrel and into the the holes. Once you get one done the others will be easy. I am pretty thrilled with these results because as some of you may be aware, black 3d printing resin is somewhat less than desirable. The results often look too much like plastic or are too shiny and doesnt really show details well. So I have conducted many tests yet again on my resin of choice. The black finish is not to stark a black or but nice and warm and on the touch of a dark warm gray. Very dark. The material is also matte or barely satin. So its a win-win. I tried very hard to make these look like blackened brass or brushed metal which I think I achieved pretty darn close actually. This batch is 13/16" long not including the handle. (What is used for the Winnie). Use these straight out of the bag. I should have some more sizes and these will be fully stocked in a few days.

Here you go.... ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf

Beautiful...stunning images.

Beautiful work. A perfect match to the model work.

Thank You...they look wonderful. Yes they are a bit on the lighter side...but it is easy enough to go darker with some stain. Just give them a little dip. It is however impossible to go lighter so hence the shade of all my boxwood 3d printed parts. I am glad you find them acceptable and versatile. How are those thimbles working for you? Chuck

working on larger blocks now... 11/32" singles and doubles now available and I am cooking the 5/16 as I write this. Below is an 11/32" (9mm) single block with 3mm thimble and a hook fashioned from 22 gauge black wire. The sheave was also darkened with a #2 pencil as you can easily do that with these bigger blocks. Once the 5/16" are done I will make 9/32" blocks. I think 9mm or 11/32" blocks are the biggest I will make. I cant see much need for larger blocks? But I may be wrong.

Actually the inevitable very fine dust that will settle on your model and rigging should make that barely noticeable. It wont remain shiny at all for long. 😉 Chuck

Thank You for saying... French Style Lantern version one is now available in 1/4" scale with glass insert. Assembled just as the last one I showed. These are after Boudriot.

Chapter 4 instructions and materials list... Chapter four materials.pdf SpeedChapFourMono.pdf

Oh and two more things... I spoke too soon. I cracked the code...1:64 or 3/16" scale belaying pins are now in stock. They are 7.4 mm long or 9/32". In addition...the first batch of chapter 4 parts for Speedwell are also in stock. Dont worry more of these will follow.

Extra Large stern lanterns also now available and in stock. Good for those 1/4" scale 3 deckers. They are 33mm tall without a crank. Chuck

CA is fine...Its looking great.

Lovely!!!

First 3D print test and assembly of two French style lanterns after Boudriot. There is no glazing insert in these....yet. Thats a bit more complex than the other Royal Navy shaped insert.

Really nice work. That was a slog indeed. But well worth the effort. Your model looks outstanding.

That looks very good...nicely done. Oh and more chapter 3 sets will be done tomorrow and available. Chuck

Thanks...So far all tests have failed. At least they failed to meet my standards. I had to put that aside so I can make the other stuff for now. But I havent given up yet. Chuck

I have to do some post processing to all my 3d printed stuff so they are always removed from the supports. Its more work for me but better for you guys. I dont see many that offer 3d printed parts with such a routine. Most just print and package. But all of my parts are lightly sanded if possible to remove the support divots and then they are sprayed and misted with a conservators UV protective coating. In other cases they finish is optimizes to make them look less like plastic as well. The color and matte or satin finish. Now yes…it could be expected that the end user/builder should do all this but most dont want to or dont know how. So its an extra service I provide that hopefully makes my parts stand out from all of the many others. Most just sell “straight from the vat” gray 3d prints you have to paint and finish yourself. Folks dont know I do all this pre printing processing and post printing processing but based on the volumes being sold I think you guys appreciate it. As you can see I couldnt possibly feel good not doing all this knowing I could finish all my parts so you can use them straight out of the bag. But it would be a whole lot quicker and easier if I didnt do all this. In fact I have nearly sold out of some thimble sizes already and will be printing more over the coming week. No painting or finishing required. Even these small black thimbles. And certainly my blocks. Counting and packaging just requires some patience. In the big scheme of things a small amount of time considering all that goes into making this stuff. No plastic gray looking blocks and fittings from Syren.